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Subject: New Boarding Acton Power Armor rss

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Mark
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A heads up on a new product that might be of use in expanding your Space Hulk.

Have you ever wanted to add Power Armored Marines to your games of Space Hulk, but were waiting for armor that looked like it would specialize in boarding actions. Oh, and price IS an object. Well...

The Marines in the new game Burning of Prospero have Horus Heresy era Mk III "Iron Armor." It would still be in specialized use from then, and up to the current 40K timeline.



The most visually brutal and imposing of all the widely produced armor marks, Mark III was intended as a suit specialized for situations where heavier frontal protection would be advantageous, such as in the close confines of spacecraft and mining complexes. The Iron Armour's structure has augmented frontal defense and incorporates additional ablative plates, and is intended foremost for use in boarding actions, tunnel assaults and void warfare.
-LEXICANUM


If you ever wanted to add Power Armor Space Marines to Space Hulk, this would be a dandy addition. Burning of Prospero squads come with a variety of weapons. They are readily available on ebay at reduced prices (about half the retail price of current, regular Marine boxes).
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Christopher
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Are there rules for them?
 
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Mark
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I don't know if they have special rules in the 30K game. Their description would suggest they are a bit clunky, but better armored from the front than other Marks of Power Armor. That would be fun to work with.

Space Hulk rules? I haven't got any specific to them.

Yet. devil

 
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SpoDaddy wrote:
Are there rules for them?

The rules for PA marines were given in White-Dwarf going back to the late 1980s/early 90s and also appear in the Space-Hulk Campaigns book.

Essentially, they can do a ninety degree turn as a Genestealer for free unless they are heavy-weapon carrying PA marines that is.
They all get 4 points to use per turn as a Terminator would have.
They can all throw grenades.

Points budget wise a squad of five Terminators for Space-Hulk is 10 points:

Terminator Sargeant with sword and heavy-bolter/pistol/etc.: 2
Standard Terminator with heavy-bolter: 1
Heavy-Weapons Terminator with Heavy-Flamer/Assault-Cannon/Heavy-Plasma: 5

3*1 + 2 + 5 = 10 points

As such a standard PA marine is 1/2 a point, a PA sargeant would be 1 point, a special-weapons PA marines 1 point and a heavy-weapons PA marine would be 2.5 points.

This would be:

1 PA sargeant = 1
1 special-weapons PA = 1
1 heavy-weapons PA = 2.5
7 standard PA marines = 3.5

= 1+1+2.5+3.5 = 8

Then you add 2 points to give the whole squad Crack & Frag grenades and equip the sargeant with either Plasma grenades or 8 Melta-Bombs.

This will give your PA marine squad of 10 men a points value of 8+2=10 points which is equal to that of a standard Terminator squad.

Special-Weapons would be a Flamer + others.
Heavy-Weapons would be a Heavy-Bolter, Missile-Launcher, Lascannon, Plasma-Cannon but please check just in case I have made a mistake on the 'weaight' of each in terms of points. I tend to use the 40K Rule Book and look up the weapons per class but in Space-Hulk it has to be worked out again ad have some rules for each type of weapon.

I think you can also find the rules for PA marines in the unofficial SH Bible PDF - have a search for it. I also did some point break downs and squad options for the Death-Watch here for your information and to work out some ideas for squads:

https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1619827/use-deathwatch-team...

Edit: I should mention too: PA Marines due to not having the stronger Terminator armour have a -1 on close-assault attack so are more likely to lose melee than their Terminator Brothers - so never let the enemy get too close

Cheers.
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Mark
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Minty is the Man Cat.

Over the three decades of Space Marines gracing tabletop battlefields (yes, they just celebrated their 30th Anniversary), that ten Marine squad structure is ingrained in us. Although, in the modern 40K game, it is a bit more flexible nowadays. Much more flexible in 30K.

The classic ten Marine squad is more suited to the open tabletop battlefield. I think a Power Armor Marine company assaulting a Space Hulk or Tyranid Hive ship would opt for a smaller, more agile, more flexible squad load-out that would double-down on leadership and Heavy and Special weapons. Keeping a reserve of regular dudes. They are going to need them! The Mk III and Betrayal at Calth's Mk IV Marine sprues have more weapon options, which allows much flexibility.


For Space Hulk purposes, I would divide the Power Armor squads in half (gasp!). A five Marine squad with a Sgt., Heavy Weapon, and Special Weapon. Alternatively, Assault Marines, would replace bolters with pistols and chainswords (no need for their Jump Packs)* FWIW, this is what the board game Advanced Space Crusade did way back at the dawn of Space Marines. Which is where I got this heresy idea...


My speculative take on rules would be slightly better than regular Power Armor when fighting from the front (additional +1 over regular PA). Lose on ties when attacked from the side or behind. No sidesteps.

*MY bad. Can't make Assault Marines with these Marines, without conversions and extra bitz.
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MintyTheCat Cat
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Mark, what sort of rules have you got for your 'Iron' PA marines and what are their costs?

I have a standard PA Marine with a Bolter as 0.5 points as taken from White-Dwarf and the SH Campaign book with a Terminator with a Heavy-Bolter being 1 point for comparison. So you would give them a +1 on melee or is that a +1 on close-assault against a Genestealer? Would that make sense though given that Terminator armour has a close-assault modifier of zero - are these iron suits stronger than Terminator armour? I am not familiar with them so this is why I ask.

What I like to do is to allow the player to spend their budget for that mission as they wish to, so it all goes back to SH allowing 10 points to the human player which is why we use it to work out what would be acceptable should they wish to exchange a standard Terminator squad for something different.

This was the main reason I had for using the Death-Watch for SH as it naturally would give the player many options in putting a team together but to be honest it does not matter and standard Blood-Angels are fine plus, I have way more BAs than DW.

As it happens, we have never tried having a group of Scouts, but I suppose they would end up playing closer to swarm members like Genestealers due to them being very weak but it would be cool to play some games against say Cultists and Chaos Terminators with the other player taking Blood-Angel Scouts. I shall have to get some Scouts

I actually own Advanced Space Crusade myself and recall seeing the Scouts and Tyranid Warriors back in the late 80s to early 90s in White-Dwarf but we have never actually played it; some say it is a bit complicated but we may well get around to playing it. We will use the Tiles in standard Space-Crusade for some games eventually too.

Cheers.
 
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Mark
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I've got to do a bit of a re-think, here. The Mk III sprue comes with chainswords for everyone, and pistols, too. I thought that meant it could make Assault squads (without jump packs). But, I was wrong. The design of the arms and weapons on the sprue make the chainswords and pistols "decorative." So, glued onto bolter-armed Tactical Marines. There may be a way to convert the Marines without destroying them. I'm willing to take that one-in-a-million chance, Scotty. I edited my original post to correct this false assumption. That changes how I supposed these Marines could fit into the game in my previous post.

Again, any "rules" I have thought up are speculative. I don't deal in points (yet). I kind of figure:

1 Terminator Squad = 2 Power Armor squads = 3 Scout squads.

That's been my operating theory (again, derived from Advanced Space Crusade) and it works OK, so far. Admittedly, it ain't like I play tons of games using alternative Marine types (and, I haven't used scouts in SH, but I have run Imperial Guard, and even Arbites).

"Hey, Sarge! Who are those guys over there?"

"Oh, those are Superhuman Space Marines in Terminator armor. That's the finest armor, with the best weapons known to man."

"Wow, makes us Imperial Guard grunts look like schoolkids. So, what are we doing on this Space Hulk, anyway?"

"Them Terminators have been getting their butts kicked by the vicious Genestealers, which have unlimited numbers. So, they are sending us in, too. Which reminds me. Did everyone fill out their Next of Kin form?"
 
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Chris Cisne
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ZombieMark wrote:
I haven't used scouts in SH, but I have run Imperial Guard, and even Arbites.


Your alternate Space Hulk session reports are always really entertaining (and inspiring!), Mark - do you have an Arbites one knocking about in the pipeline/airducts?

"Proctor! We've got incoming contacts - it's Genestealers."

"Genestealers?"

"Yes, Proctor."

"Genestealing is stealing. And stealing. Is against. The law."

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Mark
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Arbites? Yes. But, it was a Second Edition game, played not long ago (I swear I was not high when I played and wrote about this):

https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1606679/fool-ghouls

Note: The game Necromunda called local Arbites "Enforcers." So did I, here.
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Mark
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SpoDaddy wrote:
Are there rules for them?

I just posted this in the Space Wolf Return to Kalidus campaign thread I started to whine about loosing the first game in the campaign.

Posting here because my son suggested a world-changing, revolutionary idea.

You see, when you play Space Hulk with lesser models (Power Armor Marines, Scouts, lesser Tyranids (Gaunts of both types), Hybrids, etc...) the rules typically apply a lot of negative modifiers to their close combat rolls. This is both fussy, and disheartening. With a (-2, etc.) to their rolls, they hardly ever win a combat. No fun. Feels funny. Why bother? We hates it!

Instead, my son suggested changing the number of dice that model types roll, depending on opponent. That's kinda of like changing the shooting "to hit/kill" number required for different opponents. I have not worked out the maths (and, c'mon, I know I wont) but it feels 'bout right. So, roughly (i.e., untested), the numbers of dice rolled in close combat are:

Genestealer vs Terminator (3D6) Duh!
Genestealer vs all else (4D6)
Terminator* vs Genestealer (1D6) Can I get another Duh!
Terminator* vs all else (3D6)
Power Armor Marines vs Genestealers (1D6) Extra hand weapon (+1D6)
Power Armor Marines vs all else 2D6) (no further addition for extra hand weapons)
Scouts vs all (1D6) Extra hand weapon (+1D6)
All else vs all (1D6)
Hormagaunt vs all (2D6)

*Lightening Claws, or other weapons that give an extra die get one against all opponents. Weapons and Veteran modifiers apply. As do special rules like Parry and Storm Shields. For everyone!

Shooting is right outta Campaigns book (or, SH Bible, or ancient WD article). Cause it works.

Just knocking around ideas.

Oh, and those lovely Mk III Marines with their stouter frontal armor? How about they win ties when fighting to the front? Maybe even a +1 when fighting anything but Genestealers from the front. But, can't sidestep, too clunky.

 
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Squad done. These guys live up to the hype! Brutal looking. Also, maybe a tad larger than previous marines. Their 32mm base is slightly higher. Fun to build, easy to paint. Really nice sculpts. I added a little to these. Bought a Heavy Flamer off ebay. And, a nice guy at the FLGS sold me some spare breacher shields and arms (for less than they cost him from Forge World).
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Nick Wirtz
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If you want a bunch of fluffy specialists in power armor, what'd make more sense is Deathwatch, since they're already alien hunters that tend towards irregular gear...
 
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spiralingcadaver wrote:
If you want a bunch of fluffy specialists in power armor, what'd make more sense is Deathwatch, since they're already alien hunters that tend towards irregular gear...

I like Deathwatch. Heck, I own Deathwatch: Overkill. True dat they are specialized. Which is either a blank canvas or a can'o worms, depending on your bent.

These Mk.III dudes are half the price. They aren't really fluffy specialists. You can call them regular Power Armor Marines. But, their armor looks like it is meant for boarding actions. Or, you can give them some boons and banes to reflect the nature of their "Iron Armor."
 
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ZombieMark wrote:
Squad done. These guys live up to the hype! Brutal looking. Also, maybe a tad larger than previous marines. Their 32mm base is slightly higher. Fun to build, easy to paint. Really nice sculpts. I added a little to these. Bought a Heavy Flamer off ebay. And, a nice guy at the FLGS sold me some spare breacher shields and arms (for less than they cost him from Forge World).

I painted these guys using the methods described below. The following is something I've posted in other GW game forums. Only to give folks some ideas on how to get pleasantly painted miniatures on the table, with minimal effort or talent. Seriously. This method is self-correcting.
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I just happened to be painting up a squad of Dark Eldar for a different project (it's a Space Hulk thing). I proudly cheat and use shortcuts. And, 35 years of painting models and little toy mens has distilled down to economical steps that don't strain my brain membrane. The point is, no matter what level of skill, desire, or time available, at a minimum, anyone can have decent looking painted models on the table in a jiffy. And, nothing about this precludes going back and adding to the models.

First step is to choose a strange Dark Eldar-ish color that will still look strange after the dreaded dipping process. I went with a monochromatic paint scheme. With one spray can and one application I can prime and base coat the sprues. Done.



OK, this is ALL weapons, faces, and spiky bits painted on the sprue. I decided to paint weapons and blades silver. The upper right sprue has a weird sliver look because of the light shining on it. Took about 2 hours. Because, my primer/basecoat was glossy, and my paints needed two coats (and then some). Usually, this goes faster. Still, easier than painting assembled models. And, believe it or not, I'm almost done with the painting, except for touch ups, and hairdo's. Vehicle models will be a little more complicates. But not much. This is entirely voluntary. I could have removed the models from the sprues, and primed and painted them before or after assembly. Sometimes, I do both, depending on the model. This is just showing the fastest way to get the job done, with good results.



OK, this is a terrible picture. But, that's OK. The next stages are magic, and will cover up mistakes, and make the models look good. I didn't time how long it took to assemble them. I don't like this stage, so it ALWAYS takes too long. And, we have to do it, anyway. Now, if you did NOT do anything my way, you will have grey plastic models. That's all good. I did it that way for decades! Prime'em and paint'em. If you primed'em and base coated them on the sprue, but did NOT paint doodads on the sprues, you still have that work to do. I needed to use a paint similar to my spray basecoat to touch up where the models were attached to the sprue. And, fix any sloppiness where painting the parts that weren't already basecoat colored (faces, weapons, blades, etc.). Oh, all paints are water based acrylics. Only the basecoat/primer is enamel. Bottom line is I'm now done with assembly and doodads, and touch up. Hell, I'm done with painting the 10 models! I could slap these on the table. But, I want them to look a little better. So, stay tuned.



I'm going to boldly dip the models in a can of Minwax water-based wood stain (water-based stain is easier to work with than oil-based). American Walnut is suitably dark for my purposes. Oh, and yes, this is so easy I can do it with one hand, while taking a selfie with the other. Just open the can. DO NOT shake it or stir it. You want most of the pigment to sink to the bottom of the can. The diluted liquid on top is plenty strong for dipping. Use pliers or whatever to hold the model. And dip it in the diluted (by gravity) wood stain. Pull it out, let the excess drip off. Because this is water-based stain (vice oil-based stain) you do not need to tomahawk chop the models to fling off excess stain (like in most dipping videos). You can simply use a large flat brush to wipe excess stain back into the can. The goal is to leave stain in the creases and joints. Not to let it pool on the smooth surfaces. Set the model upright to dry. You will probably have to go back after a few moments to wipe off pooling stain on the lower extremities. Might have to do that twice. This will take maybe ten minutes for ten models, from start to finish. This isn't a perfect process, but it works, with minimal effort.



The finished product! The stain acts both as protective and Matt coat. Sometimes, it's a little glossy in places, but a quick Matt coat fixes that.

C'mon, admit it...This ain't half bad. Do the bases any old way you like. Ready for the table. Lot's of steps (well, not really). Not a lot of effort. Not a lot of time. Absolutely no real talent. Obviously, jetbikes and Skyboards will be more complicated. If the model is too big to actually dip into the woodstain can, the stain can just be bushed on (while holding the model over the can). Then, brush off the excess. The principles remain the same.

To recap, I don't bother with mold lines, unless they are really visible. They are not on most modern GW plastics (this is YOUR call). I combined a few steps. You don't have to do any or all of it that way. I combined priming and basecoating into one step (A non-glossy enamel spray paint for basecoat). I did most actual detail painting before even removing the models from the sprue, and before assembly. And, I kept that simple. I can do that because the dip covers superglue, too. The dip also made it possible to skip painting eyes and faces. I did not need to highlight or drybrush. The models will look a little like they have been fighting. If you want to add more colors, or highlights, or details, you still can.



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Mark
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Coming soon. $50.
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