Tragic TheBlathering
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Is this game functionally identical to the "weird west" shadows of brimstone... but with a Japanese theme? As in dose it have the dungeon and then the "town" stuff and all that?

also, dose anyone know if the game is going to have pre-assembled models.. or if we are going to have the glue everything together like last time?

Finally, dose this version of the game have any kind of rule tweaks or streamlining, like Galaxy Defenders -> Sword and Sorcery as an example.

Thanks!
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JL Miranda
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Yes exactly. It's basically a new base game from Shadows of Brimstone but with Japanese theme. Same rules, same stuff, including the dungeon and the town. Good buy if you did like the first one, it's basically more of the same with japanese flavour.

I think they didn't mention if models are pres-assembled or not.

Sorry, I don't know Galaxy Defenders or Sword and Sorcery.
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Tragic TheBlathering
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Musashi79 wrote:
Sorry, I don't know Galaxy Defenders or Sword and Sorcery.

I just mean...

is it the same basic rules, or is it a "evolution" in the rules with improvements and tweaks.. a 2.0 kind of thing.
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Waggly Bean
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Models will definitely need assembling, they are keeping it that way as they say SoB is a hobby as well as a boardgame.

The rules are pretty much the same but there are a few tweaks - for example barriers as detailed in the latest updates, which weren't in the core sets (but I think might have been in some of the later other worlds?)
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Robbie Lyons
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The rule set seems exactly the same, but the complexity/difficulty looks more with SoB expansion sets than the core sets.
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Nick Hughes
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From FFP in the comments:

"Will the Forbidden Fortress rulebook be a +/- reprint of the CotA / SoD rulebooks, or have you cleared/streamlined some of the rules? I.e. in the newer character classes of "ye olde Brimstone" (like the Prospector or Jargono Native) there is an explicit rule stating that you can't re-roll/Grit the 2D6 upgrade rolls when you level up. Most importantly - will there be more precise rules for using Grit, e.g. can you use it to re-roll Location Events while in town / rolls on the Injury / Madness / Mutation tables etc.? Can you give the official version for these few rolls here?"

It will be a new rulebook, based heavily on the previous Core Set Rulebook. It will cover some of the things that we had FAQs about since, as well as
clarifications and some tweaks as well.
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Err. assemble the models?

They look tiny enough. What do we have to assemble? Any ideas?

Are we putting all of them together, just a few?
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J. Simcoe
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The models are standard gaming model size (about 30-35mm tall for a human sized model). They would just need the pieces snipping off the sprue and gluing together with model cement. If you have experience with model kits (airplanes etc.) then you will be fine. Most of the models have about 2-3 pieces, a few have more and some are single piece and require no assembly other than gluing to a base.

If you are not used to building models, then some may be a bit fiddly (some from the original base sets), but most are pretty straightforward.

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Tragic TheBlathering
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Desferous wrote:
Are we putting all of them together, just a few?


If it was like the original game all the models will need to be taken of sprue and glued. Also the original kicker models were terribly molded, as in they didn't fit together well and it was a colossal pain to glue them, and even with using a file on the molds it left terrible gaps, as they simply did not fit together well. To make them really good you needed to use green stuff or another type of putty to fill in those gaps.

I would say that you are looking at a good few hours work to glue it all together. I would have really loved them to move away form this to a more traditional (for board gamer) style of solid mold minis. Messy annoying work.
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Waggly Bean
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TragicTheBlathering wrote:
Desferous wrote:
Are we putting all of them together, just a few?


If it was like the original game all the models will need to be taken of sprue and glued. Also the original kicker models were terribly molded, as in they didn't fit together well and it was a colossal pain to glue them, and even with using a file on the molds it left terrible gaps, as they simply did not fit together well. To make them really good you needed to use green stuff or another type of putty to fill in those gaps.

I would say that you are looking at a good few hours work to glue it all together. I would have really loved them to move away form this to a more traditional (for board gamer) style of solid mold minis. Messy annoying work.


The first core sets weren't as bad as some would have you believe. All of my models fitted together without much issue, although I could see that the way they were cast some of them were attached to the sprues by their actual pegs, so if you didn't get them off clean with sprue cutters, you might make the connection difficult. If not being observant, it'd be easy to cut the actual peg off too, which would obviously make the joint weaker. Also the number of pieces were a bit OTT in the core set minis - gluing tiny cowboy hats onto tiny cowboy heads wasn't the most fun in the world....

From what I've read, the minis have improved greatly with their newer stuff, and tend to come in fewer pieces. I imagine FFP have learned a lot from the first sets, and I'd be willing to bet that the models in this core set will not only look better, but go together much more easily.
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I'm ready to chuck the original FFP models in the bin and replace them with models from other companies. But, in the first KS, the manufacturer lied to FPP that they had experience with the HIPS (?) plastic, when they did not. The details became soft *and* this softness also made assembly more difficult. FFP has learned, and will be using another manufacturer (?). Professional painters can make any miniature look good, but I'm sure the FFP KS mini's will be fine -- just look at their latest expansions for their miniature quality.

fwiw, Zenit Miniatures has a ton of Japanese feudal, undead, and yokai miniatures on the offchance you need to proxy the FFP ones. Doubt you'll need to. Click on Kensei or Torii : http://web.zenitminiatures.es/en/home-2/
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Sam and Max wrote:
...But, in the first KS, the manufacturer lied to FPP that they had experience with the HIPS (?) plastic, when they did not. ...

Don't you get physical proofs (in the best case from more than one manufacturer) before production to prevent this? It can't be this hard, because everyone else does it.
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Casey080 wrote:
Sam and Max wrote:
...But, in the first KS, the manufacturer lied to FPP that they had experience with the HIPS (?) plastic, when they did not. ...

Don't you get physical proofs (in the best case from more than one manufacturer) before production to prevent this? It can't be this hard, because everyone else does it.

as far as the story goes, the factory used another company's product as proof of their supposed quality,
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Angelsenior wrote:
as far as the story goes, the factory used another company's product as proof of their supposed quality,


With MegaConGame's Recon, the factory switched plastics between the sample plastics (good) and the production ones (bad). MegaCon was only able to get this problem fixed because they paid only half up front (?) and half later. I guess FFP didn't do this. Chinese manufacturers are NOT your friend. Petersen Games of Cthulhu Wars ended up regularly sending people to China to make sure they were doing the plastics right, even when they were working with Panda games, and still ended up switching manufacturers. (Also, with Tom Wilfong's (?) Cthulhu Dice, the manufacturer didn't notice errors with the production dice until they were about to be loaded onto the plane!)

My guess is that retail companies have longer relationships with plastic manufacturing companies, and have the experience to make sure these companies make satisfactory plastics. Or they can absorb any costs from their own mistakes. KS creators aren't always able to do this.

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