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Subject: Blood Bowl Basics rss

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Vernan Stanton
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Introduction or thirty years of double skulls
I first discovered Blood Bowl way back in the late eighties as a kid on a day trip to Brisbane with a pocket full of birthday cash. I walked into a games shop and saw this giant coffin box game with incredible art that promised a mix of fantasy violence and football and a few seconds later I was throwing my cash at the fat dude behind the counter. In the long car ride back to the Sunshine Coast I just stared at my brand new copy of Blood Bowl second edition and fell in love. Nearly thirty years later I am still playing and still in love with Blood Bowl and my gaming shelves have a revered section that holds my BB collection. Second edition, Dungeon Bowl, Third edition, Death Zone, a dozen boxed teams, a shoe box full of the star players and big guys, the magazines and most recently the various digital copies of the game. Next week it will hold a new addition with the arrival of the latest edition.

Now, as this newest edition of BB is about to arrive I've noticed here at the geek and on other sites a new generation of people asking questions about the game. Some are brand new to BB, others missed the third edition but know of the game and some have discovered it through the digital version. I decided to put together some ideas on the basics of the game to try and help people just discovering this often cruel classic.

A game born in the chaotic, dice chucking randomness of the eighties has some elements which will be alien and frustrating to modern gamers, but there is a reason this games rule set has changed little since third edition and that is because there is the potential for great skill in the chaos, great beauty in the random buckets of dice chucking, balance in the imbalance.

If you choose to go down the rabbit hole of BB there will be swearing, lots of swearing, there will be tears when your level seven orc blitzer dies (RIP 1996-1999 the Pictland Pricks #4 Kard Bored, I still miss you), there will be angry letters to Games Workshop, after your dwarf team is torn to pieces like they're a pack of halflings, about how unfair 'claw-mighty blow-pile on' is (sigh...I actually did this), you will yell at your elf playing friend that if those stupid triksy elves make one more successful dodge you will flip the table and dish out a glassing, but along the way you will cheer like mad when your level one scrub lineman kills a super tank chaos warrior or laugh non-stop as your friend can only hold his head in his hands as your wood elf team with only three players left on the pitch manages to dodge through five guys, steal the ball and dodge away again to score the winning touchdown in a maths defying feat of audacity. If you're a BB veteran you are probably nodding saying "Been there.". If you're new to BB, strap yourself in and get ready for one hell of a ride.



1. Playing the Game or Chucking Dice and Taking Names.

First up I do wish to stress I don't claim to be a Blood Bowl expert. I have an absolute mountain of games under my belt after 30 years of playing this game and I win a lot more than I lose, but I argue and disagree about a lot of the nuances of the game with friends and dudes online and still make terrible decisions when playing. The aim of this post is to share some insights I have about the game and hopefully help newer players with playing and enjoying this game. I am assuming the reader has read the rules and is playing the game with the Death Zone League rules. I don't know what if any changes have happened since the Living Rulebook V6 but they are the rules I considered while writing this.

-: Risk management

Blood Bowl is all about risk management. It is the absolute key to getting better at the game and also the most difficult thing to do well. Most failed rolls in BB lead to a turn over and there is nothing more disastrous to winning than to activate one model, fail a roll and then watch as your opponent, who just had a full turn, have another full turn. Sometimes there are no safe moves, sometimes all you can do is that last ditch, all out desperation move, but it is risk management where most of the pain and the glory of BB lives.

The nitty gritty strategy of BB is choosing what actions to take in what order and just as important, how to leave your opponent in a position where their choices will be difficult. Here are some basic guidelines to consider when choosing what to do when.

Each turn assess the board state and decide what you want to achieve this turn. This could be picking up the ball and making a cage around the ball carrier. It could be getting your squishy players away from the opponent and setting up a new defensive line. Whatever the case, this general goal will guide you to decide what is vital and what is not. At its most simple go -: no risk then vital then non vital.

-: Probability.
Chucking dice. There's a ton of it in BB. All of the rolls that count in BB are made with d6. Both your attribute tests and the block dice. Think about your chances of succeeding before you roll. An agility four dodge to a non tackle zone square fails only 1 in 6. With the dodge skill it fails 1 in 36. That's a huge difference. If you become familiar with some basic d6 and 2d6 probability you can make informed decisions.

Building on that though, you need to think of your dice rolls in terms of a turns worth of rolls. There can easily be a dozen or so rolls in a turn. Each one with the potential for a turn over causing fail. Sure a single agility 4 dodge roll fails only 1 in 6, but after half a dozen of these rolls in one turn you become odds on favourite to fail at least one of the rolls. Often I see players take a few 2 dice block actions at the start of their turn. They're not needed for a successful turn but they do them at the start of the turn. Sure these 2 dice block rolls are pretty safe but if they aren't vital to your turn, do them at the end of your turn when the accumulated odds of failure won't hurt you as badly.

-: Stand dudes up.
It seems so obvious but doing things that can't fail first is a good place to start. Stand your guys up. This isn't always that straight forward. But as a base, stand em up. There's nothing worse than causing a turn over and then looking at the two guys still lying on the ground you could have stood up for free.

-: Prepare for the worst.
If it can go wrong it will. If all you need to do this turn is run your elf thrower forward and make a quick pass to a catcher who will prance off to the end zone, prepare for the worst. Stand guys up. Move guys not in tackle zones to near the square where the thrower will pass from in case he fumbles. Do the same for the square where the catcher will catch the ball in case it scatters or they drop it. Block off pathways to these points with no risk move actions. Those 1 in 36 double ones or double skulls happen and they happen a lot. Prepare for the worst and you give yourself a chance to recover when things do go horribly wrong.

-: Do unto others
After trying to minimise your own risk, maximise the risk to your opponent. Position and take actions with your players so the opponent needs to make rolls on their turn and the more they need to make, the more often and more likely they will be to fail. Playing your tough, bashy orcs against the skaven? Move into their tackle zones, force them to actually make dodge rolls to get away from you or risk being punched into rat mince by your much tougher orcs. Don't give their gutter runners a clear path. Link tackle zones to form a defense that will require dodge roll after dodge roll to get through. If you're playing squishy wood elves against a hard hitting bash team, don't stay in their tackle zones. Remember if none of your elves are in enemy tackle zones only one of your players can be hit next turn.

-: Two people punching is better than one.
Probability will show you that 2 dice blocks are much better than single dice blocks. As such, block assists are vital. Two players exert 16 tackle zones, one exerts 8 tackle zones. Having more players on the field than your opponent will go a long way to improving your risk management and hurting theirs. For each player up on your opponent it becomes easier to snow ball this advantage too. Be mindful of this when choosing when to punch on, when to avoid a fight and when you have the advantage in a fight or can create an advantage in a fight.

-: The sideline
To this end be careful of the sideline. If you get pushed off the pitch it's an instant injury roll and the guaranteed loss of a player. At the same time look for any opportunity to send an opponent into the crowd. Not only do they lose a player but they can lose a player to a push result on the block dice, while anywhere else on the pitch a push result can never injure a player.

-: Fouling
Fouling, or more precisely, fouling effectively is an often overlooked art in BB. Foul regularly but carefully. Don't foul unless you have a good probability of beating their armour value. This usually means having a few guys involved. Target your fouls against your opponents better players and foul with your least valuable players. You don't want to lose your star blitzer fouling some pleb lineman.

-: Defense
Defending in BB is harder than attacking. It is also vital if you want to win games. When defending maintain a straight front line with connected depth. At kick off teams usually have a solid formation with good tackle zone coverage across the pitch and solid depth. Yet after a turn or two teams stray from this and suffer because of it. Nearly all races want a player or two rushing into the attackers half of the field to apply pressure on the ball carrier by threatening a blitz on him. The rest of the team needs to keep a solid shape, maintaining tackle zone coverage and some form of depth. Bashy teams will want to engage the offense with this straight front line, while players further back in the defensive formation want to engage and pick off any break through catchers and blitzers from long pass teams. Squishy, agile teams are better off retreating from the advancing offense and reforming their straight front line and depth. All the while picking off loose attackers and waiting for any opportunity to strike at the ball carrier.
Never be afraid of doing nothing with some of your players when defending. Too often people feel they need to do something with every player. If they are in formation and fulfilling their defensive roll leave them.

-: Time
Keep your eye on the turn track. In BB, especially with high agility teams, last ditch, desperate plays pay off. As such always keep an eye on how many turns are left and make sure you can make it to the end zone before time runs out. This goes for offense and defense. From half way to the end zone is 13 squares. You've been warned.


2. Teams and Stuff.

-: Team Re-rolls
When to use a team re-roll can be tricky. At its simplest you use a re-roll if you will suffer a turnover. But if it's not vital for your turns goal, don't waste it. If you've done what you need for the turn and are throwing a block or two at the end of the turn, you may not need to re-roll an attacker down result. If it's not disastrous for you, don't use one. The cruel reality of team re-rolls is early in a teams development you need them and don't have them. Once your players start leveling up and get more individual re-roll skills like dodge, pass, sure hands, etc. you need less team re-rolls to avoid disasters and their use can change from avoiding disaster to maximising turn effectiveness via changing block results.
As a side point, most team races only need a maximum of four team re-rolls. Any more will bloat your team value and often just be wasted.

-: Apothecaries.
Most players get an apothecary for their team and they are very valuable when it comes to saving you money in the long term if used wisely. I'm a big believer in using my apothecary only for saving valuable players and only if that player will die or suffer a stat loss. Don't waste it on a 40 000gp skaven lineman but use it for your key, expensive players. This can often mean you don't end up using it even when a key player or two gets a badly hurt result or even a miss next match result.

-: Bash Teams
When starting out with BB, bash teams are probably easier to use and more forgiving of mistakes. I consider bash teams to be any team with high armour, high strength, low agility players who can punch on easily and usually have little to no chance of throwing a long bomb or dancing through a defensive line. Orcs, Chaos, Dwarf, Khemri, etc. Your basic goal with these teams is similar in defense and attack. Bash everyone until there is no one left. Against other bash teams gaining number superiority is vital, so careful blocking, assisting and fouling is key.
In attack secure the ball carrier in a tight or loose cage and slowly move down the pitch, blocking and fouling your way to number superiority. A tight cage involves having players at the 4 diagonal tackle zone squares of the ball carrier and a posse of guys literally punching holes in the defense in front of them. Tight cages are harder to breach but are slow moving and not very flexible. Loose cages offer more flexibility and tend to roll forward faster, but are easier to break into and take up more space on the field.
In defense be careful not to let fast, agile players get loose in the back field. They are your blitz action priority and take them out fast or at least get in their tackle zones with one or two players to force dodge rolls and difficult catches. Nearly all bash teams are slow so don't over commit to a ball carrier blitz or the front line or you will be left unable to catch break away players.

-: Agile Teams.
Agile teams have fast, high agility players but with low armour values and generally higher costs. Elves, elves and more elves, oh and skaven.
In attack they are deadly and can score in 2 turns. Bust open a hole into the back field with a blitz action or if the blitz fails through sheer agility and pour in as many players as you can. Keep your thrower back out of range of defenders for the first turn. Then run forward and chuck the ball to a free player and score on the next turn. Don't forget, you can make a pass action and a hand off action in the same turn. This means the ball can cover the length of the field in one turn with only 3 low risk rolls.
In defense retreat, offer little to no free block targets. Again, if none of your players are in enemy tackle zones only one of your players can be blocked. You will rarely have number superiority but your players are capable of daring raids on the enemy ball carrier when the time or opportunity is right. Hit and run. You will quickly come to realise an agile team with only a couple of players left is still dangerous.

-: Other Teams.
Some teams are unique and require special handling to be effective like Goblins, Halflings, Ogres and Vampires. I may write posts about how I use these teams another time as they each have very unique strengths and weaknesses.
Some teams can be used as either a bash team or an agile team, depending on your opponents race and your teams position make up. Humans, Amazon, Dark elf, they are highly adaptable jack of all trade teams but at the same time masters of none.
All teams need to be adaptable though. An elf team can go the bash option if they're up against another agile team. A bash team like the orcs or chaos can prove fairly effective passing teams too. It is the variability of the races and the game which makes it so re-playable.

-: Leveling Up.
Basically, pick roles for your players and choose skills which complement these roles. These roles will be determined by the position of the player, the type of skills available to the player on non doubles rolls during leveling up and how your team currently looks and its needs. Often an early stat increase or double will guide this decision greatly.
For example, Throwers can become all out passes with choices like accurate, safe throw, dump off and strong arm. They can become runners with choices like block, dodge and fend. Both roles would consider position staples like sure hands, kick off return and the much underrated kick. An early strength increase would send them down the runner path while an agility increase leads to a passing specialist.
Don't always take stat increases or double choices just because you roll them. You always take a strength increase, but the other stat increases and doubles depend on the player, what skills they already have and how their role in the team is shaping up.
For example I recently was playing a wood elf team and had a level 3 lineman with block and dodge (or as every one calls it blodge). I leveled up and rolled doubles. I could suddenly choose from strength or passing skills but with my team make up I just needed a solid defensive player who could fill in for an injured war dancer in a pinch. I defend with a retreating elf defense so guard, although an excellent skill, doesn't fit so well. Nerves of steel is an awesome catching skill but with two high level catchers and one receiving themed war dancer I skipped this too and ended up taking the ever reliable and boring tackle. A different wood elf team with a different roster at a different time in its development may have changed this.
Teams without specialist positions like beastmen in chaos teams need to choose these roles early and effectively.

3. Housekeeping

The last thing I want to address hasn't got anything to do with strategy but is vital to having a physical game of BB run quickly and smoothly.
These days I mainly play BB on Steam. It's a faithful version of the game and makes all of the housekeeping a non issue. It's yet to be seen how much of this workload will be helped by the BB app that's coming out, but the computer version breeds laziness. Click to map out tackle zones, hover on a player to see all of its skills and stats, automatic dice rolls, knowing who has activated,etc, etc.

Here are some tips to help with house keeping a physical copy:

-: Print a copy of your team roster and give it to your opponent.
It's important when planning and playing your turn to know what the opposing players skills and stats are. Trust me, it gets annoying and slows everything down when your opponent keeps asking what skills your players have got and you're doing the same to your opponent. One copy for you and one for your opponent.
-: Clearly number your players.
Make them large and easily visible. Decals on the models look great but make sure you put a large number on the base too. I use the numbered chits that came with third edition and blue tack them on the edge of the base (cause team rosters change and the number on the model may not match the current make up of your roster). A friend painted the numbers on the front and back edge of the bases. This relates to the first point so an opponent can look at your models and know at a glance what number it is and check out its stats. Your models number is not Saurons ring, don't keep it secret, don't keep it safe.
-: Placing the scatter template.
Set up the scatter template before the game, next to the board and leave it there. This will be the orientation of the scatter rolls for the rest of the game. It's not a biggy but it actually speeds things up and avoids some arguments.
-:Turn your models around after they activate.
This one is so important. With eleven players on the pitch it's easy to forget which ones have moved or stood up or whatever. Face your opponents end zone before they activate and turn them to face your end zone after they activate. Stunned players are face down and when you roll them over their heads are towards your end zone. Downed players yet to activate should have their heads towards your opponents end zone. It took years of fights and arguments to work this simple solution out.
-: Take backs.
It's going to happen. You or your opponent remember three squares later the player you just dodged away from has the diving tackle skill. My friends and I house ruled on this years ago that if the next dice roll has been done, it's too late. This is a tough one, especially if you're playing in a league. But like most games,agree to a system up front and no one needs to get shanked in the neck with a screwdriver mid game.
-: Scrap paper.
A scrap of paper and a pencil really comes in handy. Keep track of star player points. Don't mess with your team roster mid game. Write down the number of the player that injured your beloved star so you can punish them later.

I'm sure more of these house keepy things will come to mind later but these are a few.

-:Finally
I've rambled on for ages and barely covered the basics. If you made it this far and would like to know more, let me know and I'll post more, looking at things like team creation, skills and leveling up, in depth defense and attack strategies for different races, especially the weird teams like goblins and anything else you want my two cents worth on. I hope people learn to love the chaotic, random and deeply satisfying world that is Blood Bowl.
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David Munch
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You forgot the most important part and I can't believe you left that out after having played the game for so many years! No coach will ever succeed in this game without doing the following as the very first thing each game:

Pray to Nuffle (And perhaps sacrifice a mug of ale)!
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Kevin Warrender
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Thanks a bunch for the writeup. I'm still familiarizing myself with the rules and terminology but am certainly excited to try the game out and see what all the hubbub is about.

I know I have some questions about leagues though. Like, do you draft races or just have everyone bring what they want (in the hopes of ending up with a diverse field)?

How important is painting? I imagine the more serious the league, the more important it is?

 
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Ivan Pawle
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Thanks for the informative and entertaining overview!

I've been enjoying Blood Bowl: Team Manager – The Card Game and will definitely pick this up at some stage.
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Rob J
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That was a good read, big thanks!

Most of these refer directly to playing the game, but I'd love to hear from you about other aspects of the game.

I have just played my first 2 matches in BB2 @ Steam, but I am also waiting for my pre ordered copy of newest Blood bowl core set.

What caught my attention is that there are more miniatures available for teams and single matches are totally different than league play. I have not read yet Death Zone Book, so I know nothing about leagues, but I've heard that it's the most satisfying way of playing this game. I believe that you can earn money for matches, upgrade your players and level them up? That sounds awesome and also seems to be quite an accomplishment to keep track of many players their rosters, cash etc.

I have also heard that, as rules for every team are available, people buy minis from 3rd party sites and dont bother having official ones and just enjoy the game. That struck me the most, because in X-wing TMG we do not use any other but official minis This basically means that even though only core set is out and scaven expansion you could actually play as any other team just proxing minis, because we have rules for them and their stats in the books.

How would you comment on that? Cheers!

 
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Clinton Rice
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Really nice write-up but one minor gripe.

You use "players" to refer to both us, the humans playing the game (as in "Most players get an apothecary for their team") and other times it refers to the miniatures on the board ("Two players exert 16 tackle zones").

For the sake of clarity, and to teach good habits to new coaches reading this, remember that we are coaches, not players. The miniatures on the pitch are players.
 
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Ron Price
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jawohl wrote:
I have also heard that, as rules for every team are available, people buy minis from 3rd party sites and dont bother having official ones and just enjoy the game. That struck me the most, because in X-wing TMG we do not use any other but official minis This basically means that even though only core set is out and scaven expansion you could actually play as any other team just proxing minis, because we have rules for them and their stats in the books.


You've got it absolutely right. Since GW stopped selling minis, the third-party manufacturers have filled the void with lots of great-looking teams. Almost all of them are directly based off of one of the teams from the LRB6, although some will have names that may be hard to figure out immediately (the third parties have to avoid directly using anything GW might sure them for).

It's not really even "proxying," because the teams are just meant to match the LRB teams. Worth noting, however, that GW will not let you play in their stores or events with third-party teams. Also worth nothing is that the game has flourished without being played in GW stores or events for a decade, so most coaches or leagues aren't affected by this. If you're gonna be playing in a GW store league, though, you'll have to wait for the team you want to be released (or make one out of kitbashed GW models).
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Clinton Rice
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jerkules wrote:
How important is painting? I imagine the more serious the league, the more important it is?


It's been scientifically proven that teams of painted miniatures roll dice better than teams of unpainted miniatures. whistle
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Robb Minneman
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Jackasses? You let a whole column get stalled and strafed on account of a couple of jackasses? What the hell's the matter with you?
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KoalaXav wrote:
jerkules wrote:
How important is painting? I imagine the more serious the league, the more important it is?


It's been scientifically proven that teams of painted miniatures roll dice better than teams of unpainted miniatures. whistle


It is known.
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Robb Minneman
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Jackasses? You let a whole column get stalled and strafed on account of a couple of jackasses? What the hell's the matter with you?
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Nerdycat, this is a terrific writeup. Thanks for sharing your hard-earned wisdom with us. Please write more!
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Chris Montgomery
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Excellent write up. Please write more - flatten that learning curve. All good information. Especially the technical details at the end - I as wondering how to keep track of who has moved and who hasn't.
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Rauli Kettunen
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NerdyCat wrote:
As a side point, most team races only need a maximum of four team re-rolls. Any more will bloat your team value and often just be wasted.


Well, someone clearly rolls better than I do. Hell, I could do with 16 TRR and the ability to use max 2 per turn whistle ...


...and still end at least 1/3 of my turns on turnovers soblue .
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miles
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As others have said - terrific write up! Thank you for taking the time to shed some light on what can be a pretty confusing game. I'd love to read more so if you've got it in you please keep these posts coming.
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Dam the Man wrote:
NerdyCat wrote:
As a side point, most team races only need a maximum of four team re-rolls. Any more will bloat your team value and often just be wasted.


Well, someone clearly rolls better than I do. Hell, I could do with 16 TRR and the ability to use max 2 per turn whistle ...


...and still end at least 1/3 of my turns on turnovers soblue .


Better to get those block, dodge and catch skills. They'll do you more good.
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Michael Groll
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Thank you very much for this enjoyable read. Please keep them comming, making this post a valuable resource for new coaches.
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Ron Price
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Terrific write up!

In the time section, you mention being aware of the clock on defense, but it might be worth mentioning the Stall--delaying a score if possible to prevent your opponent having enough time to score easily. It's an important enough tactic for tougher teams that it might be worth including.

Edit: also perhaps a brief mention of the rules situation...

The current edition of Blood Bowl, known ideally as Blood Bowl 2016, consists of the base Rulebook and Death Zone Season 1. Errata and a list of additional teams will be available on the Blood Bowl web site. These additional teams, which don't have models available from Games Workshop at this time, will nonetheless be included in many leagues and tournaments.

These teams are based on the previous incarnation of the rules, which is referred to as the Living Rulebook version 6, or the LRB6, or the CRP. These were rules that evolved from the last-released version of the game, which was Blood Bowl 3rd Edition. Generally, the terms 4th Edition and 5th Edition refer only to miniatures releases. Discussion of rules releases typically refer to a particular Living Rulebook release, i.e., LRB4.
 
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Rauli Kettunen
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KoalaXav wrote:
Better to get those block, dodge and catch skills. They'll do you more good.


When your Troll fails Almost Stupid 2+ roll 5 times in a match while even trying to activate on maybe 12 turns, yeah. Plus, what good is a block when double skulls -> RR -> double skulls yuk (or the yep, "2+ dodge/pick up/whatever with skill", 1 -> 1).
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Clinton Rice
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Dam the Man wrote:
When your Troll fails Almost Stupid 2+ roll 5 times in a match while even trying to activate on maybe 12 turns, yeah. Plus, what good is a block when double skulls -> RR -> double skulls yuk (or the yep, "2+ dodge/pick up/whatever with skill", 1 -> 1).


Okay new strategy. Take your dice to a jeweler and have him swap the one and the six, and swap the skull with the defender down symbol on your block dice.
 
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Rauli Kettunen
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KoalaXav wrote:
Dam the Man wrote:
When your Troll fails Almost Stupid 2+ roll 5 times in a match while even trying to activate on maybe 12 turns, yeah. Plus, what good is a block when double skulls -> RR -> double skulls yuk (or the yep, "2+ dodge/pick up/whatever with skill", 1 -> 1).


Okay new strategy. Take your dice to a jeweler and have him swap the one and the six, and swap the skull with the defender down symbol on your block dice.


But they roll just fine for my opponent as is cry .
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David Munch
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Dam the Man wrote:

But they roll just fine for my opponent as is cry .

Clearly your opponent must be cheating then...!
 
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Clinton Rice
United States
Chino
California
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Dam the Man wrote:
KoalaXav wrote:
Dam the Man wrote:
When your Troll fails Almost Stupid 2+ roll 5 times in a match while even trying to activate on maybe 12 turns, yeah. Plus, what good is a block when double skulls -> RR -> double skulls yuk (or the yep, "2+ dodge/pick up/whatever with skill", 1 -> 1).


Okay new strategy. Take your dice to a jeweler and have him swap the one and the six, and swap the skull with the defender down symbol on your block dice.


But they roll just fine for my opponent as is cry .


So they roll awful for you and good for your opponent. Even more reason to switch the ones with the sixes!
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David Villa
United States
California
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Blood Bowl perfectly captures the thrilling excitement of following a sport, with the added investment of building and playing your own teams. League play takes it to an ultimate level. It is the only game that has repeatedly made me want to stand up and cheer or flip the table in anger and frustration.

It will be swingy; every game, longshots will pay off and sure-things will end in disaster, but no matter what happens, you will have a blast playing!
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Adam Wells
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Missouri
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This is my favorite thread on this entire site now.

I've seen bloodbowl played for years and finally, finally finally have the ability to join in. I've actually started building a custom pitch because i have some variation on impulse control problems.
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Sven Saage
Germany
Frankfurt
Hessen
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Yes, me too. I'm glad I finally have the chance to join in with decent minis. I have to admit the imho very ugly 80s/90s minis were the main reason I haven't started earlier.

I have read numerous times about Dungeon Ball. The concept seems intruiging.
Does someone of the veterans care to elaborate on it, since I have no idea what it is really about?
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Risto Sarja
Finland
Jyväskylä
Jyväskylä
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Subscan wrote:
Yes, me too. I'm glad I finally have the chance to join in with decent minis. I have to admit the imho very ugly 80s/90s minis were the main reason I haven't started earlier.

I have read numerous times about Dungeon Ball. The concept seems intruiging.
Does someone of the veterans care to elaborate on it, since I have no idea what it is really about?

It'a more random version of blood bowl. In the beginning there is no ball. You have to open chests to find the one and only ball. When you find the ball, run it to the other teams goal and the game is over. The catch is that you get to use teleports to move from place to place and also teleport players onto the field. Your players get hurt not only from blocks but also from the environment. If you do actions near a pit you may fall into it. Also if you move to a teleport your player might fly out of the field and into the reserves. I recall some of the hurt players can get back to the field eventully. Also the dungeons can be anything. Because of the teleports you can have very goofy maps.

It's a fun variant, but more random.
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