Quite new to the series and just purchased the 2016 edition yesterday. I was wondering what is a transfer sheet? I believe I can pull out some logo and attach it to the miniature but I couldn't even pull out the logo from the sheet :/
You have to use water! Look here at 10:47:
OMG! Thanks so much for a fast and useful reply
Dear Geek: Please insert the wittiest comment you can think of in this text pop-up. Then times it by seven.
The Coat of Arms of Clan Montgomery - Scotland. Yes, that's a woman with the head of a savage in her hand, and an anchor. No clue what it means, but it's cool.
For those who didn't click on the link, transfer sheets are "decals" that you put on the model after you are (mostly) done painting it.
Typically, prior to applying the transfer, you will put some type of varnish (either gloss, matte, or semi-gloss) on the model first, which provides a hard surface for the decal to adhere to. Allow this to dray fully and completely.
1. Cut out the decal (the transfer) from the sheet.
2. Place the cut-out transfer/decal on some paper towel and apply liberal amounts of water. You can alternatively place the decal in a shallow saucer or dish with water in it to soak, but if you use a saucer and water, the transfer could possibly completely come off the transfer sheet - so be careful when picking the sheet up from the saucer and be sure to only have a very shallow amount of water. Either way, allow to soak for about 30 seconds to 1 minute. The water dissolves the adhesive holding the decal onto the transfer sheet during this time. While waiting, apply some drops of water (with a brush) to the location on the model you want the decal.
3. Pick up the transfer along a side (sometimes tweezers are good for this). You can use your fingers, but you will likely need a "tab" of space to hold it. If not, use tweezers. Hold the transfer sheet next to the site where you would like to apply the transfer.
4. Using a damp brush, apply gentle pressure to the transfer sheet and sweep the brush gently and slowly across the sheet and onto the location where you want the transfer. Take your time. As long as the transfer remains wet and doesn't get folded over, you can continue to manipulate it.
5. Set aside the now-empty transfer sheet and/or tweezers if you used them and then use your brush to gently manipulate the transfer until you have it exactly as you would like it. Re-wet your brush if necessary and keep the surface damp/wet.
6. Once placed how you want it, use a papertowel to gently touch the edge of the area where the transfer is located just to soak up a bit of additional water. DO NOT touch the transfer directly with the paper towel (it might stick to it).
7. Allow the model/transfer to completely dry (an hour or two).
8. Varnish again to seal the transfer in place. Allow to dry fully.
a. Do not try to apply all the transfers at the same time. Do ONE transfer on a model, set it aside until dry. Seal it. Allow it to dry. Then the next transfer, set it aside until dry. Seal it. And so on. It is oh-so-tempting to rush this process, but doing so is generally not advised. Resist temptation. If the transfer is not dry, a bump or brush with your finger on the site of a wet, previously placed transfer could move it, bend it, or otherwise damage it.
b. When cutting transfer decals "inside" a set of transfers, your cut-outs are likely not going to have a big enough tab for you to hold with your fingers (unlike they show in the video - in the video they show the "easiest" transfers to apply which are cut from the outside of the sheet). Instead, employ tweezers to hold the very edge of the transfer - self-closing tweezers are preferred, but not necessary.
c. If you try to slide the transfer onto your model and transfer will not slide, or appears to be sticking to the transfer sheet, place the transfer back in water to soak for another 30 seconds or so. Try again. Repeat until the transfer slides easily. GW has a reputation for good transfers, though, so I wouldn't worry about this overly much.
d. If you drop a wet transfer at the point of moving it over, do not fret. SLOW and GENTLE wins. I have had transfers fall off the sheet onto the floor. Just use your damp/wet brush to gently touch it - the water tension will pick it up. You can even use your own fingers - as long as they are wet - if a transfer falls.
e. If you completely ruin a transfer, sometimes this is not a bad thing. If it looks "sort of" like what it is supposed to, it might be a great way to have the model look scarred/beat up. But that has to be left to your judgment. Most of the time, the transfer will have to be discarded.
f. REMEMBER that the transfer itself is going to be the outline of the numbers/icons only -- it's not a sticker, it's a very tiny cut-out decal.
g. Just because it bears repeating - speaking from experience here - let a single transfer dry completely, then seal it, then let that dry completely before moving on to the next transfer on that model. It takes a lot longer, but you eliminate the risk of ruining your tedious, hard work.
h. Flat areas are the easiest to apply transfers to, with curved areas next. I would recommend NOT attempting to apply transfers to ruffled clothing and such. You need a relatively flat or slightly curved surface and GW has provided many such surfaces on these models.
i. GW's videos make it look SO EASY! It is typically not easy if you haven't done it a few times. It is frustrating and fiddly. After two or three transfers you will gain more confidence. Try to remember to be patient, take your time. If you get frustrated, take a break and come back. You will love how your models look with transfers.
j. You may want to cut out and use a transfer that you *don't* intend on using and a model or piece of plastic you just have laying around the house to try out the whole process before using your freshly-painted miniature -- though since I don't have my copy yet I am not sure if the game comes with extras.
Have fun! Transfers can make a model look so much more alive and real and are generally worth the effort.
- Last edited Sun Nov 27, 2016 5:34 pm (Total Number of Edits: 1)
- Posted Sun Nov 27, 2016 5:27 pm
That's a great guide.
One thing I've found useful in positioning decals on RC car kits is to add a *tiny* amount of detergent to the water you soak the decal in. Brush some of the same water onto the surface of the model where the decal is to be applied and then place the decal. The added detergent allows the decal to slide about for a while longer to make placement much, much easier. With plain water I find that the decal "grips" in place almost instantly, which can be problematic.
I've never hand any problems with the decals lifting or peeling using this method, so assume the same trick would be good on sealed minis too.
- Last edited Sun Nov 27, 2016 10:51 pm (Total Number of Edits: 1)
- Posted Sun Nov 27, 2016 10:49 pm