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Subject: Painting Wooden Tokens rss

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Zakary Williams
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Has anyone ever painted or weathered there wooden tokens? I'm thinkin of doing this to Scythe to make the game look even more amazing, pictures would be amazing and how to
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Paul Burkart
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I haven't tried weathering wooden tokens, but I have repainted some wooden pieces before. The OCD in me got frustrated at the brown wood discs in Deus, when the cards and rulebook show them as green... so I painted them green! When you're dealing with finished wood pieces like this, you need to sand off the finish coat first. You don't need to sand off all of the underlying paint (although a lot of it will likely come off), but you do need to dull the entire surface so that none of it is shiny anymore. Otherwise, your paint may have trouble completely sticking.

Once you've done this and wiped off any remaining dust, feel free to paint the piece as you would paint anything else. Depending on the colors you're using, you may need a primer... I didn't with my Deus pieces, but I did need to put on several coats of green to completely cover up what was left of the brown underneath. Once you're done with painting/weathering/touching up, then seal the pieces with a lacquer or varnish to protect your paint job and to give the pieces the desired sheen.

-----

If I were you, I'd practice on a couple of extra wooden discs or cubes that you have from another game before tackling the very nice Scythe pieces. Make sure that your technique works first, and then move on to the Scythe pieces.
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Zakary Williams
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Thank's man, that's great advise, now just have to figure out what to paint them like
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Michael Pollock
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Not for gaming but I have dyed wood rods with fabric dye. Gives a subtle color affect still showing grain. Once dry does not rub off.
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Cardboard Hustle
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If you want to learn some more about using Rit Dye on wooden pieces, check out https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/335295/dying-wooden-game-co...
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Jake Staines
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mpollockrph wrote:
fabric dye


Be aware that dye will only work if you remove all of the pre-existing lacquer and paint - which will be a massive pain in the arse. If you miss any, the wood beneath that spot won't dye nearly so well, if at all, and your finish will be patchy.

Paint is absolutely the way to go if you're decorating pieces from a commercial game.
 
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Jeremy Mease
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Great Dinosaur Rush shows purple bones and the ones that came are blue.


What paint works for wooden pieces the best? I must repaint them, it drives me nuts!
 
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Paul Burkart
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ReluctantFr0g wrote:
What paint works for wooden pieces the best? I must repaint them, it drives me nuts!

Just about any paint will work, I think, but I use the cheap craft paint that you can find at most craft stores (Michael's and Hobby Lobby) or at Walmart. A couple of coats and a good sealer, and it looks pretty good. You can spend more on specialized and better quality paint that is produced for painting miniatures and models, but I think it would be wasting it for wooden pieces.
 
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Jeremy Mease
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DaiMonPaul wrote:
ReluctantFr0g wrote:
What paint works for wooden pieces the best? I must repaint them, it drives me nuts!

Just about any paint will work, I think, but I use the cheap craft paint that you can find at most craft stores (Michael's and Hobby Lobby) or at Walmart. A couple of coats and a good sealer, and it looks pretty good. You can spend more on specialized and better quality paint that is produced for painting miniatures and models, but I think it would be wasting it for wooden pieces.


Thanks!
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Jake Staines
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DaiMonPaul wrote:

Just about any paint will work, I think, but I use the cheap craft paint that you can find at most craft stores (Michael's and Hobby Lobby) or at Walmart. A couple of coats and a good sealer, and it looks pretty good.


The question then becomes whether you're repainting the tokens because you want to decorate them with faces and costumes and stuff, or whether you're repainting the tokens because you want to make them a different colour.



If you want to decorate them, use what you find comfortable. If you don't want to spend more on specialist miniatures paints then don't, but they absolutely are easier to use - craft paints are far more inconsistent in consistency, coverage, etc. On the other hand they're much cheaper, so you can afford to buy a couple of bottles until you find one you like.

However, both craft paints and specialist miniatures paints are acrylics, and acrylic paint is significantly more fragile than a lot of other types of paint. If you use acrylics then whatever you seal it with, you can more or less guarantee that at some point down the line, with all the handling that wooden game pieces get - not to mention bumping against other pieces in storage - the paint will wear away.

If you just want to change the colour, you're far better off using something like enamel spray paint - leave it to cure for a couple of days and it'll be far, far harder and more tenacious than acrylic with any kind of sealer on it.
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Jeremy Mease
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Bichatse wrote:
DaiMonPaul wrote:

Just about any paint will work, I think, but I use the cheap craft paint that you can find at most craft stores (Michael's and Hobby Lobby) or at Walmart. A couple of coats and a good sealer, and it looks pretty good.


The question then becomes whether you're repainting the tokens because you want to decorate them with faces and costumes and stuff, or whether you're repainting the tokens because you want to make them a different colour.



If you want to decorate them, use what you find comfortable. If you don't want to spend more on specialist miniatures paints then don't, but they absolutely are easier to use - craft paints are far more inconsistent in consistency, coverage, etc. On the other hand they're much cheaper, so you can afford to buy a couple of bottles until you find one you like.

However, both craft paints and specialist miniatures paints are acrylics, and acrylic paint is significantly more fragile than a lot of other types of paint. If you use acrylics then whatever you seal it with, you can more or less guarantee that at some point down the line, with all the handling that wooden game pieces get - not to mention bumping against other pieces in storage - the paint will wear away.

If you just want to change the colour, you're far better off using something like enamel spray paint - leave it to cure for a couple of days and it'll be far, far harder and more tenacious than acrylic with any kind of sealer on it.


Ok, maybe I can find a purple spray paint somewhere abouts! Thanks, this is amazing info!
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If spray paint isn't your thing, Acrylic Enamel also comes in regular paint bottles - just be aware it dries with a shiny finish so a dull/semi-gloss coat may be necessary as a final step if you don't like the look.

Once cured it's quite tough (designed to stick to glass, ceramic or metal and strong enough for outdoor use), just be sure to follow the instructions about not thinning it with water for maximum strength.

If you're working with untreated/unfinished wood, my weapon of choice is the alcohol based marker. No cleanup, leaves a nice 'dyed' look, easily completed with a little brush-on varnish/glue.
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Fire_Forever wrote:
If spray paint isn't your thing, Acrylic Enamel also comes in regular paint bottles - just be aware it dries with a shiny finish so a dull/semi-gloss coat may be necessary as a final step if you don't like the look.

Once cured it's quite tough (designed to stick to glass, ceramic or metal and strong enough for outdoor use), just be sure to follow the instructions about not thinning it with water for maximum strength.

If you're working with untreated/unfinished wood, my weapon of choice is the alcohol based marker. No cleanup, leaves a nice 'dyed' look, easily completed with a little brush-on varnish/glue.


oh marker! Any brand you recommend?
 
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I thought there'd be some priming involved, although maybe that's just for bare wood : http://www.wikihow.com/Paint-Wood-Crafts

Found these Krylon Short Cuts, although I've thought that most of the price you paid was for the can. I've seen them at OSH. : http://www.krylon.com/products/short-cuts-aerosol-paints/

Of course, always test paints and primers on a test piece first.
 
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ReluctantFr0g wrote:
oh marker! Any brand you recommend?


For 'painting' wood tokens, they're all the brands I've tried work equally well - Copic, Touch, Prismacolor, Tria, ProMarker, etc.

I'd steer you away from Copics (though that's mostly what I have) simply due to their cost. It's unlikely that they'll prove a good value proposition unless you're also doing fine art. Check your local art store and see what they stock - I wouldn't pay more than a couple bucks each for this application - or pick up a few on ebay. A dozen should be under 20$ there.

The major difference in quality/price is generally in the type of tips the markers have and how well they blend, neither of which is too important when colouring wood. Don't expect to be able to get very fine detail out of alcohol markers on wood, due to the porous nature of the wood itself. Another downside is that if you're using laser-cut pieces, you'll have to stick with dark edges or sand them down before they'll take colour. Lastly, as markers are additive, the base color of the wood is always going to tint the final result. Personally I like that, but it does make very light markers not show up well. Works best with strong pigments.
 
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Jake Staines
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ReluctantFr0g wrote:

oh marker! Any brand you recommend?


Again: note that alcohol markers will only really work if your wooden pieces haven't already been painted or finished, because they rely on soaking into the porous surface of the wood - if your pieces are already finished you're going to have to painstakingly sand off every last speck of paint/varnish before you can get an even finish with the marker.

If you want the convenience of a marker when dealing with already-finished game pieces (which means any piece in any commercially-produced game), then consider paint markers. They use a fairly durable paint that dries relatively quickly, and come in a variety of colours. You should still sand the original a little bit, but you only need to rough up the surface of the previous paint layer a little to give the new paint something to stick to, you don't need to obliterate all sign of existing paint.

Personally I'd recommend the Pentel ones if you want to try paint markers. Uni-Posca is a popular brand, but I've always found the paint in them a bit fragile, while Pentel's paint is pretty durable.
 
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Jeremy Mease
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Thank you so much!
 
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"What do you mean, I can't pay in Meeples?"
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Bichatse wrote:
Again: note that alcohol markers will only really work if your wooden pieces haven't already been painted or finished,


While I too would only seriously recommend alcohol markers for unfinished wood, as mentioned in my first post, this isn't quite true. They can and do stain finished wooden tokens, I've got some nice chestnut brown dog meeples that were formerly bright orange to prove that.

However there are quite a few cons. It's not a perfect even color, it makes the wood grain VERY obvious, subsequent layers of marker will streak/displace the first so careful/even coat the first time around is required, and not all makers / varnishes may react in the same way, so test at your own risk. Paint really is a better choice for previously varnished tokens.
 
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