Recommend
1 
 Thumb up
 Hide
21 Posts

Miniature Painters Guild» Forums » General

Subject: Gluing resin rss

Your Tags: Add tags
Popular Tags: [View All]
Matt Price
United States
San Francisco
California
flag msg tools
Member of the San Francisco Game Group since 2005
badge
This is a customized Bane Tower from the game Man o' War
Avatar
Microbadge: Parent of Two BoysMicrobadge: Dungeon Degenerates: Hand of Doom fan
I'm assembling a handful of resin figures from Raging Heroes, and using Zap-a-gap (cyanoacrylate, I believe) and it's horrible. It simply won't dry, and the figures won't stay together. Crazymaking.

Those of you with experience with resin, how do you build them?!? What glue do you use?

I don't think I'll ever buy another resin model after this experience. These figures are beautiful, very fine and delicate, but they'd never last 2 minutes on any sort of battlefield or game board!
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Tim M-L
United States
Chicago
Illinois
flag msg tools
designer
badge
Avatar
Microbadge: Song of Blades and Heroes fanMicrobadge: I love ChicagoMicrobadge: Dungeon-crawlerMicrobadge: LibrarianMicrobadge: NetHack fan
I also don't care for resin. I would also have said wash the figure and use cyanoacrylate. I think Zap-a-gap in particular is slow curing, so maybe a basic cheap superglue would be better. perhaps something where you can put as little on as possible, just to make sure it dries faster. I have used a Krazy glue with a brush applicator that was good for those sorts of situations. An accelerator or baking soda might help too, but baking soda can leave a texture.

It would also help to hold the figure together with something- rubber band, tape, poster putty, or just leaning it in a way that the pieces are falling towards each other rather than apart.

If there are any casting vents or other scrap bits you can test on, that might help.
1 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Andreas Johansson
Sweden
Linköping
flag msg tools
I spent 200 GG and all I got was this lousy overtext!
badge
I spent 200 GG and all I got was this lousy overtext!
Avatar
Microbadge: LibraryThing userMicrobadge: Mysterium fanMicrobadge: My Favorite Contribution to BGGMicrobadge: 6 nimmt! fanMicrobadge: The Grizzled fan
I'be glued resin models with loctite superglue and had no particular problems, FWIW.
2 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Rick S
United States
Cincinnati
Ohio
flag msg tools
badge
Avatar
Microbadge: Dungeon Dice fanMicrobadge: Chaos in the Old World fanMicrobadge: Heavy Metal fanMicrobadge: Cool Mini Or Not "Blood Rage" Contest participantMicrobadge: Masmorra: Dungeons of Arcadia fan
galad2003 wrote:
A microscopic drop of water (or spit)will make the super glue dry nearly instantly (which is why super glue will stick to your fingers so quick but nothing else). You can also use an accelerate like zip kicker.
Zip kicker CA glue accelerator is amazing.
I use it all the time, instantly cures super glue, and even gives you a satisfying sizzle or crackle as it works.
1 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Broti
Germany
Krefeld
flag msg tools
Microbadge: I backed Kingdom Death: Monster on KickstarterMicrobadge: Zombicide fanMicrobadge: Sword & Sorcery fanMicrobadge: Eldritch Horror fanMicrobadge: I drank paint
Superglue isn't my favourite. I often experienced the problems you describe. Most probably you add too much glue. Super glue only works well in ultra small amounts, depending on the material you are working on. This is because it needs humidity for its reaction. If you put on to much there is not enough moisture to absorb, so the blob won't harden as you expect.
Breathing at the spot can help. Activator can help as well.
Next thing is you need some teeth for the glue to grip to. It can help to rough the surface a bit. Scratch it, for example with a piece of sandpaper glued to the end of a chopstick.
As always, preparation is key.
For me 2-component glue works well, the dollar-store variety is still good enough and cheap enough. It is thick enough to hold the light resin pieces in place and ultra strong, so no worries.
No bleedout or degassing as you sometimes get with superglues.

I don't care which material my miniatures are made off as long as they look good. Paint sticking is no problem after priming, so no worries.
3 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Matt Price
United States
San Francisco
California
flag msg tools
Member of the San Francisco Game Group since 2005
badge
This is a customized Bane Tower from the game Man o' War
Avatar
Microbadge: Parent of Two BoysMicrobadge: Dungeon Degenerates: Hand of Doom fan
If Zip Kicker is instant.... How's that with working with the tiny, finicky little pieces that these !@$#*&#@ are made of? I seem to need more than a few seconds to adjust and manipulate the pieces to get them in place.

I've been gluing a single head to a torso all morning (~3 hours). I picked the tiny thing up to attempt to glue it to a pair of legs.

What do I do?

Drop it. The head pops right off and goes shooting under the desk. The glue WAS STILL WET!

In my little brain, all this gets filed under: RESIN. NEVER AGAIN.

(and today's my birthday. sigh!)
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Ze Masqued Cucumber
France
flag msg tools
Protze et Chniaque !
badge
C'est le Gomazio à crête mordorée, dont le cri annonce le soir...
Avatar
Microbadge: Golden Turtleback Painted Miniature Monthly Contest winnerMicrobadge: Best Pimped Boardgame of the Month winnerMicrobadge: Geek of the WeekMicrobadge: Kluntje King - Best Pimped Boardgame of the Month Hall of Fame memberMicrobadge: My contribution was deemed Pyuredeadbrilliant
Some resin casts use lots of unmolding additive. Which messes the glueing.
Once the parts are washed well enough, they should glue fine with cyano/superglue.
2 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Rick S
United States
Cincinnati
Ohio
flag msg tools
badge
Avatar
Microbadge: Dungeon Dice fanMicrobadge: Chaos in the Old World fanMicrobadge: Heavy Metal fanMicrobadge: Cool Mini Or Not "Blood Rage" Contest participantMicrobadge: Masmorra: Dungeons of Arcadia fan
mattprice wrote:
If Zip Kicker is instant.... How's that with working with the tiny, finicky little pieces that these !@$#*&#@ are made of? I seem to need more than a few seconds to adjust and manipulate the pieces to get them in place.
You apply super glue, position the part, and then apply the accelerator.
My Hobby Lobby sells an accelerator. I hope you get it sorted.

Happy Birthday!
2 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Chris
United States
Cheektowaga
New York
flag msg tools
badge
Avatar
Microbadge: Antiquity fanMicrobadge: Food chain magnate fanMicrobadge: 2020 Gold SupporterMicrobadge: Roads & Boats fanMicrobadge: Depression and Mental Health Awareness
Locktite Gel Glue from Home Depot works the best I have found.
2 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Giles Pritchard
Australia
Shepparton
Victoria
flag msg tools
designer
publisher
badge
Avatar
Microbadge: The One Ring RPG fanMicrobadge: Star Trek Adventures RPG fanMicrobadge: ShepparCon attendeeMicrobadge: Infinity RPG fanMicrobadge: Homebrew games are king
I would not recommend using an accelerant. Often the joins are much weaker than if the glue had been allowed to dry normally. I had a whole bunch of figures I put together using super glue and an accelerant, nearly all of them have fallen apart in the course of game play or being transported due to very weak glue bonds.

I would suggest trying a different type of super-glue. A vast majority of the miniatures I work with are resin (Dystopian Wars, Firestorm, Planetfalll), and I use superglue with no issues (Locktite). I would suggest washing the models in warm soapy water first, and allowing them to dry, before gluing, undercoating and painting.

That's just my experience though!

Edit: And if no superglue is working well, I would suggest trying a plastic glue - it may be the type of resin...
3 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Matthew Holley
United States
Chattanooga
Tennessee
flag msg tools
badge
51% DELICIOUS!
Avatar
And here's vote number four for Loctite. Seriously, all super glue is not the same. If you've washed the parts thoroughly, I'd be surprised if Loctite doesn't work for you.
3 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Matt Price
United States
San Francisco
California
flag msg tools
Member of the San Francisco Game Group since 2005
badge
This is a customized Bane Tower from the game Man o' War
Avatar
Microbadge: Parent of Two BoysMicrobadge: Dungeon Degenerates: Hand of Doom fan
Thanks for all the suggestions. One of the most awful parts is where you have a 3 (or 4!) point join, like a figure holding a rifle (for those of y'all who maybe haven't done this before, that's joining shoulders to body and hands to weapon: 3 or 4 points to join at once because if one sets a little awkwardly before the others, the remaining joins won't work!). The Raging Heroes female troopers, while awesome in terms of detail, are very petite and thin, so pinning isn't a very feasible option (the drill bits would just shred their wrists, for example).

So I think I'm going to do some experiments with 2 part epoxy, which is thick enough to hold pieces in place.

Do you think Loctite Gel would hold pieces in place while they dry?

For those who don't know, the Zap a Gap, while a great glue, is very thin and pieces simply fall apart while it cures, unless held in place.
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Broti
Germany
Krefeld
flag msg tools
Microbadge: I backed Kingdom Death: Monster on KickstarterMicrobadge: Zombicide fanMicrobadge: Sword & Sorcery fanMicrobadge: Eldritch Horror fanMicrobadge: I drank paint
No, even the loctite gel is to thin to hold anything but the smallest parts.

What you describe is predestined for 2k epoxies. Good luck! It will still be a struggle.
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
David Bailey
United States
Warner Robins
Georgia
flag msg tools
badge
“I'll be more enthusiastic about encouraging thinking outside the box when there's evidence of any thinking going on inside it.” ― Terry Pratchett
Avatar
Microbadge: Legends of Andor fanMicrobadge: Mansions of Madness fanMicrobadge: I play with green!Microbadge: Mage Knight Board Game fanMicrobadge: Gloomhaven fan
I just wanted to give a shout out for Gorilla Glue Super Glue Gel. Once I tried this stuff, I've never gone back to loc-tite.
1 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Tim M-L
United States
Chicago
Illinois
flag msg tools
designer
badge
Avatar
Microbadge: Song of Blades and Heroes fanMicrobadge: I love ChicagoMicrobadge: Dungeon-crawlerMicrobadge: LibrarianMicrobadge: NetHack fan
mattprice wrote:

Do you think Loctite Gel would hold pieces in place while they dry?
No. Nor would epoxy. You will need something holding the pieces in place while any glue dries.
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Matt Price
United States
San Francisco
California
flag msg tools
Member of the San Francisco Game Group since 2005
badge
This is a customized Bane Tower from the game Man o' War
Avatar
Microbadge: Parent of Two BoysMicrobadge: Dungeon Degenerates: Hand of Doom fan
timlillig wrote:
mattprice wrote:

Do you think Loctite Gel would hold pieces in place while they dry?
No. Nor would epoxy. You will need something holding the pieces in place while any glue dries.
OK, it's gonna be a wee bit of greenstuff... I'll let y'all know how that goes!
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Rick Vinyard
United States
Albuquerque
NM
flag msg tools
badge
Avatar
Microbadge: Android userMicrobadge: Red and White Ribbon (Lymphoma/Lymphadema Awareness)Microbadge: New Mexico State UniversityMicrobadge: Elder Sign Protected!Microbadge: Linux user
I use Loctite Professional Liquid (blue bottle, cyanoacrylate).

I always wash resin with either a toothbrush and dish soap, or a little dish soap in an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner (preferable).

You can then either dip both join points in water and shake them off, or lick the join points like a stamp and apply the glue. The small amount of moisture is usually enough to cause the cyanoacrylate to set within about 15-20 seconds... sometimes faster depending on humidity, which is a rare thing here in the Southwest US.

I've tried Gorilla, but I didn't like the gap filling properties. I usually trim/shave the resin with a blade so that it already has the fit that I want it to have, so gap filling isn't generally an issue.
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Brant Benoit
Canada
Calgary
Alberta
flag msg tools
designer
badge
Avatar
Microbadge: Miniature PainterMicrobadge: JackassMicrobadge: I´m only half evilMicrobadge: We are all winners - we were the fastest spermMicrobadge: Attempting to give a damn.......damn not given.
With metal or resin, it's always best to score both surfaces. It creates more surface area for the glue to seep into. This helps it dry and bond more quickly, along with making the bond stronger.

This is especially pertinent when gluing flat surfaces together.

 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Matt Price
United States
San Francisco
California
flag msg tools
Member of the San Francisco Game Group since 2005
badge
This is a customized Bane Tower from the game Man o' War
Avatar
Microbadge: Parent of Two BoysMicrobadge: Dungeon Degenerates: Hand of Doom fan
So I rewashed them, as the first time I think I didn't use enough soap. Then I scored both surfaces to be glued; scraped them up so well that there's no way there was any mold-removing-residue as there was no original surface left! Then I put a tiny blob of greenstuff, just enough to hold the parts in place, and finally glued with zap a gap. The greenstuff squeezed out of the join in a few rare cases, and I tried to smoosh it back down so it didn't look too horrid.

But I think it worked. The bonds are pretty tight, though I'm not really testing them too much for fear of damaging the resin and breaking the piece!

Thanks for the advice everyone.
3 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls