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Subject: Magnetizing Kingdom Death Monster Survivors - A Primer rss

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Welcome everyone to my excessively long guide!

So, I’ve been reading a lot of comments about magnetizing the survivors/armor sets in Kingdom Death lately that are either marginally untrue, flagrantly biased, or even flat out false. Each time I read these I get a nasty look from my fiance, dog, and even the cat as I sit here growling obscenities at the screen. I’m about ¾ through magnetizing everything (including all the current expansions) and I feel like I have a pretty strong grasp on it by now.

The main question I see on everyone’s mind is: Should I do it?
The short answer: If you have patience, time, and some extra cash monies lying around, then by all that is sacred: HELL YES!!

There is literally no comparison. The looks on everyone’s faces at the table (even my own) when you reach the Prepare Departing Survivors stage is priceless. That expression of excitement because we all threw down all manner of resources to get a couple beefy new helms, that shiny new sword, and happened to find a new rare item on the last hunt… And now we get to outfit our characters to represent it all!

So what about all this garbage info about the figures looking janky, or being able to see the magnets, or not being able to pose them, or they fall apart, or blah blah blah? Total bullshit. If you buy all the right items and not cut corners, take your time, do it correctly: nobody would know by looking at it that it was magnetized.

Take a peek for yourself! Here is my group’s current team of ass whipping survivors:


Now that I have gotten your attention, and you should be drooling so much you need inflatable swim gear, I will tell you the negatives:
• Good god is it tedious! Hours can go by and depending on what you are working on, you may have very little to show for it.
• To do it correctly, you will definitely have to spend a little money. And you will definitely have to wait for certain parts. If you want something done right, go the distance.
• It is true, some of the more massive weapons are a bit heavier than even the strongest magnets can handle. However, this can be mitigated in many different ways: rest it on the hand of the other arm, rest it on the character’s shoulders, have it drag lazily behind them, etc etc. Be creative! Honestly, there are so few weapons this applies to that it rarely comes up, but the fact that you can choose whatever the hell you want outweighs the few weapons that cause this so much it is simply a giggle and a shrug when it happens.
• No, it is not advisable to pick them up by the heads. Just grab them by the body. You know, that solid part that is literally less than ⅓ of an inch below the head. Your arm won’t get tired moving the extra distance, I promise you.
• Once in a great blue moon, when flopping them over upon knockdown with anger in your heart, a magnetized piece may come off. No big deal as they attach right back without any concern.
• There are a very select few pieces that don’t fall into this system. Such as shoulder armor that actually have gear cards or armor that already have the legs attached to the bodies. It’s up to you how to proceed with those, but there aren’t many to worry about.

Not many other negatives. These were pretty hard for me to even bother listing in the first place, but I am trying to give you full disclosure.

I was going to list the positives, but you would be scrolling for so long I guarantee a finger cramp or death by old age. Seriously now... Think about it: what is in your gear grid is represented on your figure at all times. I can’t think of another tabletop game that allows you this sort of distinct modular customization. And don’t get me started about even the little nuances, like how much fun it is to take an arm off when it gets dismembered in the middle of a fight!

I would also like to point out that this guide reflects my own method of doing this and is not the be all end all. However, I can assure you I did quite a bit of research and can tell you without any hesitation that I am beyond happy with the results. Use this as a basis to build upon and add your own flair and techniques!

Okay, enough blathering, let’s dive in shall we?

Here’s what you are going to need:

Magnets:
Metric shit tons of them. Seriously. Doing them the way I have been, where you are magnetizing the hands, body, arms, head, and waist, takes twelve magnets per figure. Now think about all the different hands, all the different extra weapons (and the fact that there are both left and right versions of each one), all the extra heads, all the extra arms… You will start to understand why there is a glass of highly flammable liquor in most of my photos to imbibe.

You are going to need neodymium rare earth magnets in three sizes: 1mm x 1mm, 2mm x 1mm, and 2mm x 2mm. Get all of them at the strongest possible rating of N52. DO NOT SKIMP ON THE QUALITY OF THESE! I cannot stress this enough. Weak or horribly sized magnets cause a great deal of the complaints you hear. I sourced mine from all over the world using Ebay and couldn’t be happier with the results. I originally ordered 100 pieces of 2mm x 1mm, 100 pieces of 2mm x 2mm, and 200 pieces of 1mm x 1mm. Since then I have ordered another 200 of the 1x1 and am pretty certain I will need more.

CAUTION: You need to know this: these magnets are very strong, small (a stupid understatement on my part, trust me), and potentially dangerous to any children or animals. If you drop one and have any of these small creatures running about, find that little shit ASAP. If ingested, it poses a potential issue to the innards. It can easily equate to a really bad time on everyone’s part. So do yourself a favor and exercise some serious caution and care when handling.


[That's 200 1mm x 1mm magnets!]

Tools:
• Cutting mat to work on.
• A few sheets of magnetic computer paper. When placed on your work area, they form a perfect extra barrier against losing magnets.
• Self-closing metal tweezers. Supremely important this is metal and quite possibly the most important tool in this endeavor.
• A pin or needle.
• A paper clip.
• Plastic glue - thin. Not thick. I use Citadel brand and couldn’t be more impressed. This stuff is used to join plastic to plastic by actually melting the parts together to form a serious bond.
• Super glue. I grabbed some GaleForce Nine from the hobby store. I wish it had a better applicator. If you can find one with a finer tip made for modelling - go for it! We will use this to attach the magnets to everything.
• Pin vise drill with 1mm and 2mm drill bits. I bought Citadel. It came with multiple copies of the bits needed! It also works great and feels right in the hand.
• Metal files. Again, I bought Citadel. They are okay, but I wrecked them pretty fast attempting to file down magnets like a moron. Pretty sure you can get better ones cheaper, but make sure they are pretty fine and not too big. In Citadel’s defense, I liked how the backs were rounded. Overall really good.
• Paper towels (wet and dry). Used for cleaning up on the fly.
• Whiskey - or your choice of harsh brain numbing drink. Sometimes I go with scotch. Sometimes Rock N Rye. Sometimes bourbon. No wine - that shit is just wrong and has no place here.
• Mouldline remover. An amazing tool! It’s used to scrape the plastic to remove blemishes or fine lines or whatever! I went with, you guessed it, Citadel. The curved blade and weight of the handle are exceptional qualities.
• A pair of micro shears. I drank more kool-aid and bought Citadel’s Fine Detail Cutters. Gotta say, even though you can find all their items for cheaper elsewhere, they make a quality product. These are no exception.
• X-acto knife (with lots of extra blades).
• Plastic sandwich baggies - sans crumbs. Sometimes things need to dry and you don’t want animals creepin on these little pieces. Ignore this entry.
• A lamp. Because.. Eyesight.
• Black sharpie. Used for marking up the magnets. I tried other colors, but they don’t appear on shiny silver very well.
• Six fathoms of patience. Maybe seven.
• A telescoping magnet. Not really that important, but it helped me a number of times while fishing around under the couch for a little hand or head or what have you.
• Pair of needle nose pliers. Another one that isn't necessary, but they have saved the day a few times, so they shouldn’t get the shaft in this list.
• Some small jewelers screwdrivers. Again, not needed, but they came in handy in a myriad of ways. Excellent for prying out magnets, slightly opening a seam, or even scraping away at something.
• A nail (and a hammer or relatively small boulder). Very situational. Fingers crossed you don’t need it.

Here’s a pic of what my setup looks like:


Now to begin the madness:
You are definitely going to need a plan of attack. I made this horrendous drawing to remind myself which magnets go where:


1mm x 1mm in the neck of the head, shoulders on arms, inside forearms, and attached to hands.
2mm x 1mm in the shoulders of the body.
2mm x 2mm in the neck cavity of the body, in the waist of the body, and the waist of the legs.

Once you’ve wrapped your brain around this, we need to talk about polarity. You see, you want the various pieces to always go to the correct spot. You can’t just go throwing magnets in drilled holes and hope for the best. You’re going to want the polarity of the left and right shoulders to be opposite, so you can’t put a right arm in a left socket. Same for the right and left wrists. You’re also going to have to make a tough decision before you begin: do you want to be able to mix male and female parts? I went with ‘no’ as an answer to this. Don’t read into it. Don’t try and work it into some sort of sexist based tirade. If you go the same route as me, you then have to make sure that all the polarities you come up with for one sex, are the exact opposite on the other. The one thing I did keep the same between both sexes is the polarity in the forearms and hands. That way any hand/weapon can go onto any figure, as it was meant to. For each piece, I will list out what to do for polarity whether it is the very first one you are doing or any time afterwards.

Sound confusing? It is. The first male and female you make are going to be the most difficult because of this. Once you get it all figured out, the rest will be easier because you have a model to go against. So just take your time. Go slow. Stay on target.

So, let's get to it already!
This guide is written in a particular order to help you all with your first survivors. It should make this endeavor a bit easier as doing certain pieces before others will help later on down the line. Once you get a couple done of both sexes, you can start with whatever piece you want. There is no real order of operations at that point. I generally tend to do whatever piece coincides with whatever drill bit is currently attached to the drill.

Please note: do yourself, and all of humanity, a favor and make sure all the pieces are completely cleaned up before you begin this process. Seriously here. I see so many people leaving ragged little shreds of crap on their pieces. People wonder why their joins or seams are so spaced apart or why their final figures don’t look as appealing. You spent how much on this game? Give the same amount of love and attention to it that you would a newborn kitty. Use the mouldline remover, X-acto, and files to really get each piece smooth and delicious, no matter how small and seemingly insignificant. This is the time where doing things right early will help you later on and provide you with sense of nerd pride rarely found anywhere else. Trust me on this one.

Please don’t think I use X-acto knives and files on kitties. That was a poor analogy. The Wathen’s is starting to make me silly.

So set up your workspace, lay out all your body parts (in my case: a male Screaming Fur armor kit), pull out some magnets, pour a glass, turn on some music (Burial is my current go-to for all things KDM), and let’s begin!



Head:
Take a good look at it. Imagine it in the body. Go ahead and dry fit it in the body for reference. You want the magnet to go into the neck in a way that helps attach it to the body how you want it.



I start by shaving down the bottom of the neck so it is flat. Not so much that it takes a ton of the neck off, but enough to get the round part mostly gone. Remember, it’s no longer a ball in a socket, but two flat magnets grabbing for each other’s attention. This is true for all the other parts as well.



Once flat, I take the X-acto and put a small hole exactly in the center of the neck. Doesn’t have to be too deep. We are just using it as a guide for the drill.



Make sure you have the 1mm drill bit in the drill. Now go ahead and carefully drill into said guide hole. Make sure that as you do it, you are going straight into the neck. Not at an angle. You don’t want to go too deep, or you will have some issues. You may also want to press a little to each side as you are drilling, in an attempt to make the hole oh-so-slightly wider than 1mm. We aren’t talking anything too grandiose, but enough that you can slide a magnet in and get it out without too much hassle.



Once you feel like you’re almost at 1mm deep, dry fit a magnet in there. You want to do this often as you start out. You don’t want to drill too deep (not the end of the world in the neck, but other areas it will cause major bouts of swearing and sighs and desires to flip tables). I take a magnet and slap it on the edge of the tweezers and just slide it into the newly created hole till it stops. Does it need more drilling? Keep going, but dry fit often so you don’t overshoot your mark.



Now for gluing that sucker in there.

Polarity:
• If this is your first head, and you haven’t done a body yet, then it doesn’t matter what way you put the magnet in.
• If you have already done the opposite sex, and are following in my footsteps of keeping the polarities opposite, take the opposite sex’s head and attach the loose magnet to the one already in the neck. Take the sharpie and color the end that is facing out on the magnet at the end of the chain. This is to let you know which end has to go in the neck of the head you just drilled. If you aren’t trying to keep the sexes from mingling, mark the side that is attached to the magnet.



Whatever method you choose, this next step is the same. Take the magnet and put it on the tweezers. It really doesn’t matter where. Near the tip on the edge is where I like to let it sit. If you have marked one side, make sure that side is outwards. Place the tweezer/magnet combo aside.

Now take your super glue and apply a tiny little drop (TINY, not a full drop) to the hole in the neck. It’s not going to flow into the hole on it’s own, so no worries. I take a pin/needle and poke it a bajillion times through the drop into the hole. Periodically wiping the needle on a paper towel. Eventually you will get the air bubble out and the drop will disappear down into the neck. No worries on if there is too much, we’ll take care of that in a minute.





Pick the tweezers back up and slide that magnet into the hole. You may have to either use your fingernail or some deft wrist work to get the magnet to stay in there if the bond is too tight between the magnet and tweezers. You’ll get the hang of it. Once it’s in, push it down so it’s flush with the flat part of the neck that you shaved down earlier. I then wipe it real quick with the damp paper towel square I have handy.





As long as it’s flush, or even a little sunken in, we’re good for now. If the magnet is sticking out a little, you forgot to test fit it earlier. Do your best to get the magnet out right away before the glue sets. Slap yourself a few times and vow to not be such a boob and skip steps again in the future. Correct the mistake and drill a bit deeper AFTER the glue has set, you don’t want wet super glue all over your drill bit. If the magnet is in too deep, wait till it dries and then file the neck down to meet the magnet.

Once it has dried, take something small and flat (I use the end of one of my files) and scrape the face of the magnet clean of any leftover glue residue. You want all the magnets to be shiny and free of anything that could hamper the bond between both magnets when they attach to each other.



Admire that head. It’s going to look so sweet looking so smug right before it gets repeatedly chomped on by a White Lion.

Hands:
These are somewhat quick and easy. They are also the easiest parts to fix if you screw up the polarity or the position of the magnet itself. Each hand takes a single 1mm magnet attached at the wrist.

Polarity:
You want to make sure each hand is the opposite polarity of the opposite hand, but the same as previous ones done.
• If you haven’t done any hands yet, don’t even worry about what polarity to do (unless you have done an arm already).
• If you have already done an arm, but no other hands, you’ve botched everything. Flip your worktable violently in a fit of defeat! Or, take a stack of two or three magnets and slide them into the wrist. Flip the stack if it doesn’t want to stay in. Once you find the side that sticks, mark the opposite end of the stack with the marker and use that magnet on the hand. Marker side attached to the wrist.
• If you have done an opposite hand already, just attach a magnet to that hand and mark the end. This marked end will be glued to the wrist of the opposite hand.

Before gluing, prep the wrist by cutting it down flat at the wrist. You need a flat surface to attach the magnet to. Be sure to make the wrist flat at the angle that you want the wrist to sit in the arm. Imagine the magnet sticking from it and it sliding into the wrist.



Next you want to use a file, preferably one not too fine, to scuff up the flat surface. It doesn’t need to be visibly scuffed, just run the file against it a few times. This will help the glue stick to it better, allowing the magnet to stick and create a better bond.



Now you can either keep the magnet stuck to a stack of other magnets, or to the other hand (which I usually do), or to the tweezers, but just make sure you are gluing the right side, marked by the sharpie, to the wrist. Put a very very small drop of glue on the wrist and press the magnet in place. You are going to want to hold it there for a bit. Sing a medley. Contemplate how sick the resulting figure is going to look. Tell your significant other how amazing they are. Lick your lips in preparation for the next sip of that glass nearby. And we’re done! You should be able to put the hand down at this point. If you don’t want to leave the other hand, stack, or whatever attached to the hand while it drys, you will need to slowly slide it off the magnet you just attached. This is where I screw up the most. Between you and I, just put the whole mangled mess down for a little while and move on to the opposite hand.


[Using a right handed katar to glue the magnet to the left hand]


[Using a left handed spear to glue the magnet to the right hand whip]

Arms:
Once both hands are finished, grab an arm. Put it in the correct socket. How do you want it to sit in there? Remember, once the magnet is set, the arm will be able to spin, but not pivot. This means you will want to think about how you envision that particular arm to be posed. Do you want it close to the body when it is spun that way? Do you want it more outwards? This is important. I personally just kinda eyeball it and wing it, since there are so many arms, with a few that I reserve for shields or for what I may use with a bow. Anyways, once you have it in the general position you like, pull it out and imagine where the magnet would have to go in the shoulder to achieve this.



Now, just like the head, use the X-acto to mark where the magnet should go.



Depending on the type of arm and how big the shoulder ball joint is, I sometimes file down the ball just a little, where the guide hole we just made is, in order to make it a bit more flat. Makes it fit a little easier sometimes and a stronger connection with the magnet in the body. It’s not always necessary, and it’s an easy thing to screw up, but it helps on some of the arms.



So, again just like in the head, drill down using the guide hole(1mm drill bit and a 1mm x 1mm magnet). Remember, you want to drill into the arm at an angle that fits the way you want the arm to sit in the socket. You’ll understand once you do a few. You may have a couple silly arms that make your initial mini look like one of those insanely goofy inflatable dancing creatures outside car dealerships, but guess what, that’s okay! You have lots of arms to match with it and spinning those gimpy arms in new ways will probably wind up working really well with one of the weapons.



Remember to do the dry fit test as you drill! This step should never be forgotten. In this case, if the hole too deep, you may have to file down some of the plastic to meet up with the magnet, as you want it to be flush with the shoulder ball. It's also very possible to not push the magnet in too deep while gluing so you wont have to file. However, the best bet is to just do it right and test the depth by dry fitting as you go. Eventually you will know when to stop drilling out of habit.



On to the polarity nightmare training once again.

Polarity:
• If this is your first arm and no body, just throw it in there!
• If you have done another sex already, but not the current sex, and are following my routine of keeping them separate, use the same arm from said opposite sex to mark your magnet.
• If you have already done the opposite arm, or the arms of another sex, but not the current sex, and want to have all the parts interchangeable, use the opposite arm to mark your magnet.

Wow, I’m sitting here reading this and I’ve completely confused myself! Think of it this way, when the arms are done, you want them to be able to stick to each other at the shoulders. If you are making the sexes opposite, and not interchangeable, you want the the same sided shoulders to stick to each other between the sexes.

Mark the magnet end that is going into the hole with the marker.



Go ahead and glue the magnet in place the same way that we did for the neck.


[Glue drop]


[Glue poked]


[Magnet inserted till flush]


[Excess glue wiped away]


[Once dry, scrape away the residue]

Set it aside and repeat this procedure for the opposite arm. Remember, the polarity has to be opposite on that side from what it is in this one.

Now for the forearms. No need to use an X-acto to mark this one. Just start drilling! Once again, we are using the 1mm drill bit. Once again, we are drilling in straight as we can with the general path of the forearm. And once again, make sure you press around a little to make it a tiny bit wider than 1mm. However, this time we are going to drill into it at a depth of 2mm. Why? We will put a 1mm magnet down in there and the hands will have a 1mm attached to them at the wrist. Said hand will slide down in there, attaching INSIDE the forearm. This way you won’t see any magnets and it will look perfect!



So to test how deep you have gone with the drill, take one of the hands you have already done, doesn’t matter which for this test, and attach a magnet to it. If you can slide this down into the wrist and not see either magnet, you’re done drilling. If you haven’t done any hands yet, use a stack of magnets and make sure two of them are in the forearm, however, I HIGHLY suggest you do a couple hands first, as this will help greatly in the next part.





WARNING: Do not drill too deep! The magnets are strong, and don’t need to touch to be attracted, but hands holding bigger weapons won’t work at all in an arm with a magnet that’s too deep and doesn’t have contact with the wrist. There is no way of extracting the magnet once in place without completely destroying the arm. Dry fit often while drilling to avoid this!

At this point, I’m going to assume you have read all my warnings, suggestions, gentle nudging, and strong parental chastising and you have taken heed and done a left and right hand by this point. Good!

Take the hand that goes with whatever arm you are working on and attach a 1mm magnet to the magnet already attached to the hand. Mark the end with the sharpie. This end will go into the forearm.



Remove the magnet and attach it to your tweezers with the marker side out and set aside.

Put a small drop of glue on the opening of the forearm.



Poke it a bunch with a pin (these steps starting to sound familiar yet? Do I need to continue to mention it every time?) to get it all down in the hole. You will know when to stop. Feel free to wipe the pin off between pokes to help.



Here’s another rather tricky part. Take your tweezers, with magnet attached, and insert it marked side down. You will want to use a fingernail to keep it in the arm as you slide the tweezers to the side. You may be able to figure out a better trick, but more often than not, the magnet will want to come out of the arm when you pull away the tweezers. I’m willing to bet there is a better way, but a fingernail hasn't come in this handy in a while for me, so I continue to struggle with it for the masochistic fun of it all. It's not nearly as difficult as I'm making it out to be, I promise.



Grab your handy paperclip and unbend it a bit. Use it to push that magnet as far down into the forearm as you can. It may take a little effort, but you won’t hurt the arm. Wipe off any excess glue and set it aside. Move on to the other arm and repeat these steps!



Once both are dry, I recommend taking your pin and using it to scrape the face of the magnet that is down in the forearm. Just stick it in there and whip it around a bit. Once you do this, take your drill with the 1mm bit still in it and drill in there a little to get the glue out of the inside of the forearm as well. You're doing this to not only help the bond between the magnets, but also so there is no obstructions when sliding the hand in.





You should now have two arms ready to flail about madly and sell cars!



Body:
This always seems like the most daunting part, but is actually quite straightforward. I'm also going to start using less photos, as at this point it's highly redundant and I'm going to assume you're not a halfwit. Just the essentials!

You will need two 2mm x 2mm magnets and two 2mm x 1mm ones as well. So switch the drill bit over to 2mm and prepare yourself.

Shoulders:
You will use the 2mm x 1mm magnets in the shoulders.

Take the body and look into the shoulder joints. They are like little half spheres in there! What we want to do is drill straight into the center of that half sphere. You don’t want to be at any sort of an angle or the arm may not fit as you intended. At all. You don’t want your death dealing micro bad asses looking like they are all in a perpetual state of doing the chicken dance.

Just like all the rest: drill a little, dry fit, repeat till it’s flush with where that half sphere would have ended, had you not just excavated it with such fervor.



Polarity:
• You’ve done the arms already right? Perfect! Take the corresponding arm and attach one of those 2x1s to it and mark the end.
• You haven’t done the arms? Go do them. No more polarity options for you!



By now you should be able to teach a master’s class on the gluing procedure: small drop of glue, stir it up, jam that magnet in there (marked side in), wipe up excess.

Now just repeat this on the other side!

Neck Cavity:
This should be very straight forward by this point. Just like all the other ones, you want to drill down in the neck cavity as straight as you can. You want the 2mm x 2mm magnet to be flush with where the end of the plastic was originally. This way the head will fit as perfect as if you had not decided to magnetize like the pimp that you are. However, this is an interesting case where even though you want to make sure you don’t drill too deep, you won’t have a choice as the bodies are almost all hollow inside. So don’t fret if you wind up drilling into the cavity before you reach the 2mm mark. Just make sure that when you push the magnet down into the hole, you use a heightened level of caution when pressing down and stop once it is flush, as the glue will take care of keeping it in place.



So, which side to mark before insertion? Use the head you made from earlier and attach the magnet to that and sharpie away!



It's funny, I've reread this guide so many times to make sure I'm bringing it for real to you all, and just now, as I'm on my third hour of trying to format it and upload images that I realized I never wrote what to do next in this neck hole of no return. Take a wild guess? Unless you said fill it with cheese, which I wish I would have thought of before, I'm willing to bet your answer was along the lines of "glue, magnet, wipe". So much understanding - you'll be rolling on the magnetizing insight table soon enough!

Pro tip: If you completely botch the magnet by pushing it too deep, you have one get out of jail free card: that nail I mentioned you should have on standby in the parts list at the beginning of this guide. I would try and use a stack of 2x2s first, while it is still wet, to try and pull the other one out, but between you and me, that’s a heartache waiting to happen. Instead, jam that nail in there and tap it with a hammer or something else heavy. What you’re trying to do is get that magnet to clear the neck completely and fall into the body, where it will reside from this point forward as some sort of ghetto pacemaker. Perhaps there is a better solution, but after screwing it up a couple times: whether by getting the polarity wrong or by pushing it too far in, this was my goto method of exacting my rage, without destroying the chest. Your minis - your call!

Waist:
Another easy one.

Use the X-acto to mark a guide hole in the dead center of the bottom and drill on through! Just like the neck, there is a large chance you will hit an open cavity before you get to 2mm. That’s fine! Just be careful when you push the magnet in. As for polarity, you have a couple choices at this point: you can stick a magnet in the neck cavity and mark the side facing outward, or you can attach one to the head and mark the OPPOSITE side (the side actually attached to the magnet in the neck). Once you’ve got the magnet in there and wiped down, set it aside and let it dry for a bit.


[Hawt X-acto action!]


[Drill it]


[Using the neck cavity option for marking the magnet]


[This is glue, not elderly cat saliva]


[Magnet away!]

Final step!
Just like every other magnet, take a somewhat pointy tool (I’d avoid using the X-acto, not only because it’s too precise, and not only because you will be wearing the blade down unnecessarily, but the thought of using it just makes my brain implode and my spine tingle in a really uncomfortable nails-on-a-chalkboard sort of fashion.) and scrape away at the magnets in the chest to remove as much of the dried glue on the faces of them as you can.



Fun fact: because we are doing the polarities the way we are, they all pull each other together to the center of the chest. This will help keep them all in place!

Legs:
Take a nice long sip off that drink… We’re almost there!

All you need for this is a 2mm x 2mm magnet and the desire to finish this tutorial.

Take your X-acto and make the usual guide hole right smack dab in the middle of the top of the waist. You want it to join up as close to perfect with the magnet in the bottom of the chest piece. Make sure you have the 2mm drill bit in play and go for it. Just like all the other pieces, dry fit a magnet into the hole from time to time to see if you have reached the right depth.





Use the body you did in the previous step to set polarity. Just attach a magnet to the bottom of the body and use the sharpie to mark the exposed side.



Drop o’ glue, pin till the bubble pops, slide the magnet in marked side down till flush, wipe clean, set aside, scrape it when it is dry.









While you’re at it, break out the plastic glue and attach the feet to one of the bases!





Testing:
Oh sweet lawd - the best part of this whole damn process!

I’m sure you’ve probably already been doing this the whole time while giggling like an idiot, but now is the time to take all these dismembered pieces and put them all together to form your own creepy Voltron! If you have followed this ridiculous guide, everything should fit just right and create a smile on your face that puts your lower jaw in jeopardy of falling clean off.





Finish that drink. You’ve earned it. One mighty high five for you!

Your next survivor:
So you’ve just completed your first survivor and you are tweaking out wanting another fix? I would recommend doing the same one, but opposite sex. If you have decided to follow in my footsteps and have them not be interchangeable, just make sure you reverse all the polarities in the last one you finished, aside from the forearms and hands, when figuring out the build of the opposite sex. Otherwise, it should be rather easy to continue on by copying the polarity of the one you have just completed.

Storage:
I’ve seen a few really interesting ways of storing all these bits and pieces, but none of them suited my need for a compact and quick way to store and retrieve items as needed. What I’ve come up with is basically the shit and you WILL agree.

Bought these portable sorting bins at Home Depot for silly cheap. The dividers are completely modular and can be removed or repositioned. They also, surprisingly, don’t allow bits to cross pollinate, even when shaken! Bought some fancy pants printer labels recently to replace the broke as hell looking pieces of tape with ball point pen 1st grader penmanship that I was previously using.



Most of the cases are divided up by armor set by sex, by expansion, or by settlement location, with a few exceptions. The rest are used to store the bases, usually with a full set of the corresponding armor to make life easy.


[You're going to obviously want to view this one at the original size]

Tips Tricks:
In no particular order:
TAKE YOUR TIME! I can’t stress this enough. You may want to get this endeavor done quick, but I promise you: the hardships and mental anguish from not doing things right at first is not worth the rush job.
• Once you get the hang of it, you don’t need to do the pieces in any particular order. Some days all I do is hands and weapons. Other nights it’s just arms. When you have a set of figures done, it makes all the difference.
• Always dry off your tools if they get any type of glue on them right away. I tend to scrape run-away residuals off when I’m done for the night. The build up can cause issues later, and you should just respect your shit anyways. Now go make your bed.
• You can use the plastic glue as a way to fix mistakes, hide certain seams, smooth out some rough plastic, etc. This stuff melts the plastic slightly into a funky slurry. You can use it to your advantage! Make sure you practice on some random sprue bits before you go at a mini with it.
• I mentioned it a lot before, but I’ll put it here as well. Clean off the exposed sides of all the magnets the best you can. I use the tip of one of my files to scrape the hell out of the magnet faces. The cleaner the surfaces, the better the magnets will stick to each other. Plain and simple.
• If you are somewhat pressed for time, do them all in order of how they would appear in the game and don’t focus too much on all the extras at first. For example, do all the unarmored people and give each one a lantern and a founding stone. Move to the next set. Don’t worry about the extra arms and hands and such just yet. If you know you and/or your group won’t be doing too much with a particular set of armor, just do one male and female to save time (looking at you White Lion armor).
• Some pieces should only be added once you are completely finished magnetizing a mini. A great example are the shoulder pauldrons on certain armor sets. You will want to keep this in mind when preparing the arms. I attached them to the shoulders of the corresponding body and it limits the arm mobility a bit, but allows for any arms to go with it and still have it look choice.
• A stack of three 2mm x 2mm magnets can help grab other magnets out of tight fit situations. Keep this trick at the back of your mind. You’ll be using it many times.

Conclusion:
Huge shout outs to all the other KDM magnetizers that came before me. Without your little hints and write-ups, I couldn’t have been able to get to this stage of my nerd awakening. And of course, a giant bow to Mr. Poots for making all of this a reality. Your creativity, ingenuity, and refusal to settle on nothing but the best has left me in child-like awe. My giant collection of games are getting asthma inducingly dusty thanks to you!

So to everyone who actually read this far: don’t listen to the haters out there. Don’t listen to the misinformed spreading nonsense. Don’t listen to the negativity from those that half assed it. If done right, full blown magnetization of the armor sets is immensely rewarding in so many ways. Before Kingdom Death, I had never done anything remotely this intense in the miniature scene. Since I bought the game, I’ve found a hobby in it that has given me a strong sense of personal satisfaction, pride, and fascination.

I hope I can help everyone find this unique happiness in it as well.

Embrace the insanity!

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I've embraced the insanity and I'm currently magnetizing the core game and all expansions. The only thing that worries me is that Poots isn't releasing any armor kits for the new expansions. I just hope he can get the kits finished at the same time the new expansions are released.
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JakobBGG wrote:
I've embraced the insanity and I'm currently magnetizing the core game and all expansions. The only thing that worries me is that Poots isn't releasing any armor kits for the new expansions. I just hope he can get the kits finished at the same time the new expansions are released.


That worries me a bit as well. I personally think it would be a better business model to keep the armor kits in the expansions and sell the narrative sculpts separately for those that don't want to be creative.

Either way, great to hear someone else has taken the magnetizing plunge though! I'm still deciding if I want to put a magnet in the backs and side of the waist or use some form of mounting putty.
 
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a valuable resource has been created here. please bookmark it for your reference. this enhances BGG, KD:M, and the mini-figure/collecting hobby.

in terms of design, this layer of customization is a perfect fit for KD:M.

Gratitude and respect to Mare_Vaporum
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Excellent job. For superglue, you can also put a dot of glue on a piece of scrap aluminum foil, and transfer the glue with the tip of a bent paperclip. You can also practice magnetizing on other larger models. The SoB folks talk about magnetizing the wings to make transport easier.

Any links for the magnets? Does Amazon sell ones you recommend?
 
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Wow! Great post! How much do the magnets run? I might try to do this once I get the game. Thanks for the insight on how to do thiS!
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Sam and Max wrote:
Excellent job. For superglue, you can also put a dot of glue on a piece of scrap aluminum foil, and transfer the glue with the tip of a bent paperclip. You can also practice magnetizing on other larger models. The SoB folks talk about magnetizing the wings to make transport easier.

Any links for the magnets? Does Amazon sell ones you recommend?


Thank you!

As for magnetizing the other models, I'm not going that route. All of my expansions are already completely finished and when I need to transport, I only bring the items I need in a military hard case with foam inserts.

I used the following vendors on Ebay for the magnets:

1mm x 1mm:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=4&cam...
2mm x 1mm:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=4&cam...
2mm x 2mm:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=4&cam...

I'm sure you can find other vendors as well, but just make sure you stick with N52 grade!
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Holy damn.
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I've done this to the main game and all of the expansions. A lot of work lol.

With the switch to narrative sculpts. It all feels like a massive waste of time now as the consistency will be broken with the new expansions.
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Sticky this please. Put it on Kingdom Death's main page. The community has needed this. Thank you thank you thank you! Have some gold.
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Mare_Vaporum wrote:
Sam and Max wrote:
Excellent job. For superglue, you can also put a dot of glue on a piece of scrap aluminum foil, and transfer the glue with the tip of a bent paperclip. You can also practice magnetizing on other larger models. The SoB folks talk about magnetizing the wings to make transport easier.

Any links for the magnets? Does Amazon sell ones you recommend?


Thank you!

As for magnetizing the other models, I'm not going that route. All of my expansions are already completely finished and when I need to transport, I only bring the items I need in a military hard case with foam inserts.

I used the following vendors on Ebay for the magnets:

1mm x 1mm:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=4&cam...
2mm x 1mm:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=4&cam...
2mm x 2mm:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=4&cam...

I'm sure you can find other vendors as well, but just make sure you stick with N52 grade!


Really good guide! I've been thinking about doing some magnetizing. I'm wondering whether N50 is sufficient for these magnets. Mainly because (1) the N52 1x1mm magnets from zigman416 are the only N52 magnets I can find and, with shipping, they end up being like $10 for just 50, when you could get on, say, aliexpress.com and get hundreds of N50 1x1s for the same price shipped; (2) I see that stiven-zhang which you recommend for the 2x2s only sells, as far as I can see, N50 2x2s, not N52, and these are the only 2x2 cylinder magnets I can find pretty much anywhere higher than, say, N35.
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Nice guide! Very entertaining and educational!

Though the real question is do we need 3 hands to do this endeavor?
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Dark63 wrote:
I've done this to the main game and all of the expansions. A lot of work lol.

With the switch to narrative sculpts. It all feels like a massive waste of time now as the consistency will be broken with the new expansions.


That's what I'm thinking about.
Is it still worth it?
Consistency is a major concern for me.

PS: really nice work, thank you OP!
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wow great guide but a lot of work. amazing, i think it will take years for me to do it. i dont know if i will have the power to do it
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New guy to miniatures checking in... Thank you for this great resource. If I never magnetize a thing in my life, I'll be sure to come back and read this at least a few times. Just because, I mean, wow! I love it. Bravo, man.

Now for an obligatory noob question. After you magnetize them, (if you haven't jumped off a bridge, or run them over with a car) can you still paint them? Any extra painting steps required like an extra good finisher to toughen them up?

Amazing.

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baylock wrote:
Dark63 wrote:
I've done this to the main game and all of the expansions. A lot of work lol.

With the switch to narrative sculpts. It all feels like a massive waste of time now as the consistency will be broken with the new expansions.


That's what I'm thinking about.
Is it still worth it?
Consistency is a major concern for me.

PS: really nice work, thank you OP!


Adam has said the armor kits are NOT going away, and that there would be new surprises in store once they do come out. So I don't think it's a waste of time at all. I still think it's the coolest thing people have done with the KD minis, and you get SO much more versatility out of them vs the narrative sculpts
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Magnets
Very nice guide! Thanks for posting it. Here are the magnet sizes that I used for my assembly. Worked pretty well for me, seems to hold everything reasonably fine.
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Elyklord wrote:
baylock wrote:
Dark63 wrote:
I've done this to the main game and all of the expansions. A lot of work lol.

With the switch to narrative sculpts. It all feels like a massive waste of time now as the consistency will be broken with the new expansions.


That's what I'm thinking about.
Is it still worth it?
Consistency is a major concern for me.

PS: really nice work, thank you OP!


Adam has said the armor kits are NOT going away, and that there would be new surprises in store once they do come out. So I don't think it's a waste of time at all. I still think it's the coolest thing people have done with the KD minis, and you get SO much more versatility out of them vs the narrative sculpts


but how much would cost each armor kit? How many would we need them?

The change to narrative sculpts is the only disappointing change so far to me. Even we get a option, it will be a pricey one to a game I am already spending a lot.
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This is a greatly helpful thread.

In my case, it made me painfully aware of the amount of work and precision required to magnetize the miniatures....and realize I'm not willing to do that. I had wondered if that were the better choice, but now I realize it isn't for me.

I'm impressed with anyone who manages to do this.
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Symphonic5 wrote:
Sticky this please. Put it on Kingdom Death's main page. The community has needed this. Thank you thank you thank you! Have some gold.


You're quite welcome and thank you very much yourself!

I'm happy someone will get some use out of this.
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eschaton1000 wrote:
Mare_Vaporum wrote:
Sam and Max wrote:
Excellent job. For superglue, you can also put a dot of glue on a piece of scrap aluminum foil, and transfer the glue with the tip of a bent paperclip. You can also practice magnetizing on other larger models. The SoB folks talk about magnetizing the wings to make transport easier.

Any links for the magnets? Does Amazon sell ones you recommend?


Thank you!

As for magnetizing the other models, I'm not going that route. All of my expansions are already completely finished and when I need to transport, I only bring the items I need in a military hard case with foam inserts.

I used the following vendors on Ebay for the magnets:

1mm x 1mm:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=4&cam...
2mm x 1mm:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=4&cam...
2mm x 2mm:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=4&cam...

I'm sure you can find other vendors as well, but just make sure you stick with N52 grade!


Really good guide! I've been thinking about doing some magnetizing. I'm wondering whether N50 is sufficient for these magnets. Mainly because (1) the N52 1x1mm magnets from zigman416 are the only N52 magnets I can find and, with shipping, they end up being like $10 for just 50, when you could get on, say, aliexpress.com and get hundreds of N50 1x1s for the same price shipped; (2) I see that stiven-zhang which you recommend for the 2x2s only sells, as far as I can see, N50 2x2s, not N52, and these are the only 2x2 cylinder magnets I can find pretty much anywhere higher than, say, N35.


Personally, I wouldn't skimp on the 1x1s at all. Those will be holding the arms and wrists, which need as much pull as you can muster. Like I mentioned in the guide, this will indeed cost you a little to do it right. As for the 2x2s, you could maybe get away with N50s, since they are only attaching to themselves and the head.

Maybe get 1 set of N50 1x1s and test it with the bigger weapons and arms and see how well it works for you and then order more if you are happy about it.
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lupine wrote:
a valuable resource has been created here. please bookmark it for your reference. this enhances BGG, KD:M, and the mini-figure/collecting hobby.

in terms of design, this layer of customization is a perfect fit for KD:M.

Gratitude and respect to Mare_Vaporum


Thank you much!

I honestly hope it helps someone jump in feet first and just go for it. It was a really tough decision for me, but the end goal is so damn worth it!
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Kempest wrote:
wow great guide but a lot of work. amazing, i think it will take years for me to do it. i dont know if i will have the power to do it


It only seems daunting due to how stupidly long I made this guide. Trust me, once you get into it, it goes by quick. Granted, there are a ton of things to magnetize, but even just putting them all together without magnets takes a while as well.

Maybe I'll throw up some more pictures of crazy combos you can do to help inspire even further...
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RESPECT.
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hello =)

how many figures did you magnetizing? and how long did you needed for 1 figure?

im not sure if i will do it, im happy when im done with painting every miniature ^^
 
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