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Subject: I need Opaque!!! white card stock? rss

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Clint Corley
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I'm making a new prototype for a card game I designed. In my first prototype I used 110 lb white cardstock. I was dismayed to discover that even at this weight you could see though the printed card when held up to a light. I have looked at a couple paper brands that call themselves opaque (Astropaque and Exact Opaque). They are not. Any suggestions?

 
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Zopper Alf
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When your printer can handle it take "construction paper" (is this the right word?). I use it for all my player aids and stuff like this. Absolutely no way anything shines trough.
Hope that helps,
Simon
 
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FullContactGEEK
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One trick that I have used is to print on perforated business card sheets, but in a particular way. I set up my printing templates so that the fronts and backs alternate on the same side of the sheet. That way, when I punch the cards out, I can leave two cards attached, one showing a front, one showing a back. Then, I put some glue on the opposite surface, then fold along the perforation so the edges match perfectly and I have a double thickness card that is harder to see through. You can improve this further if your card back image is dark or complex. If it's a prototype, just use a glue stick and the process is fairly quick. Otherwise, I'd suggest rubber glue.

This will work any perforated card format that has the cards edge to edge. A better size for game cards would be name card stock.
 
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Kent Reuber
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Stick the cards in colored CCG card sleeves, and/or print a simple black/grey back on the card backs to make them more opaque.
 
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Richard Irving
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Quote:
Stick the cards in colored CCG card sleeves


Or use non-opaque card sleeves and print/use a second card to use as the back.
 
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Albert Hernandez
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rri1 wrote:
Quote:
Stick the cards in colored CCG card sleeves


Or use non-opaque card sleeves and print/use a second card to use as the back.


If it's just a prototype, you can print on sticker sheets; then, cut and paste them onto cheap CCG cards or playing cards. If you don't have either of those to spare, you can go visit a couple of thrift stores and find Trivial Pursuit cards to stick the prototypes onto. That should be easy enough to find.
 
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Clint Corley
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First I want to thank everyone for replying. I am currently using card sleeves. I'm getting requests for copies as gifts, however. So I want to make sets that look more professional. It seems as if my next step is to go to a printer. I wanted to see if there was a cheaper option.

I guess I was hoping someone had (inside?) information on the paper used in professionally printed playing cards. Is the card stock paper itself opaque, or is it a layered paper or coating process that makes it so? Is there a brand of card stock that can be purchased in 8 1/2" x 11" reams with the same opacity as a professionally printed playing card?

Part of me just wanted to vent about how the word opaque is used in the paper industry. Someone in marketing needs to look up the definition. If you know of a white card stock (110 lbs or less) that is truly %100 opaque I'd be grateful if you posted information about it.

-Clint
 
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Clint Corley
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Zopper-Alf wrote:
When your printer can handle it take "construction paper" (is this the right word?). I use it for all my player aids and stuff like this. Absolutely no way anything shines trough.
Hope that helps,
Simon


I haven't specifically looked at construction paper. If it's the stuff I remember from childhood I don't think a white sheet would be opaque. I will check it out though. I'm wondering if you're thinking of posterboard? If so, it might be a tad too thick. Do you know the brand name? Does what you use come in 8 1/2" x 11" sheets and will it go through a standard inkjet printer?
 
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Clint Corley
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rri1 wrote:
Or use non-opaque card sleeves and print/use a second card to use as the back.


I've tried this. Believe it or not you can still see through 2 110 lb cards. I had to cover the backs of both cards with black text to make it work. That, and the deck became twice as big.
 
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Bill H
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If you print front and back on thin card stock then use spray adhesive to glue a sheet of opaque mylar between them you should have something impossible to see through.

I believe this is similar to how commercial playing cards are produced.
 
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Richard Irving
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fractaloon wrote:
rri1 wrote:
Quote:
Stick the cards in colored CCG card sleeves


Or use non-opaque card sleeves and print/use a second card to use as the back.


If it's just a prototype, you can print on sticker sheets; then, cut and paste them onto cheap CCG cards or playing cards. If you don't have either of those to spare, you can go visit a couple of thrift stores and find Trivial Pursuit cards to stick the prototypes onto. That should be easy enough to find.


Actually, this is an inferior solution:
- The sticker stock is a LOT more expensive than card stock. 25-50 cents per sheet vs. 1-2 cents per sheet for card stock/regular paper.
- Card sleeves can be had for 100 of $1. Cheap!
- In a prototype, you may want to make changes to your cards--you can slip a changed card front in place of the original.
- Trivial Pursuit cards, in particular, have another problem--they are unique on BOTH sides (Remember the answers on the back!)
 
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FullContactGEEK
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Have you tried blank playing cards? Often they can be found in magic supply shops.

 
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Matthew Frederick
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Playing card stock is white paper sandwiched around black paper, that's why it's opaque. Peel apart a playing card and you'll see the inner layer (sometimes blue, I've found).

In my experience, printing full-color backings with a pattern or text of some kind on 110# cardstock that's then cold laminated produces a very-nearly opaque card, one that you really have to just hold up to the light to see through, something that doesn't happen during actual play.
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Brad
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I've been dealing with the same issues, and someone also
told me to print a color back. First attempt (mostly gray)
helped a little, but was far from perfect. Then they told
me (on BGDF) to use a patterned back. This helped quite a
bit more. Still can see through a little when held to bright
light, but you have to try pretty hard. This is on 110#
cardstock, too. Which cost me more like 5 cents a sheet in
a pack of 250. A penny or two would sure be nice, though
the cost is swamped by the color print cartidge costs anyway.
 
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