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Subject: Ideas for sealing the edges of the triangular chits? rss

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Adrian Schmidt
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The triangular chits (breakthroughs, warp tokens, paradox tokens) tend to separate easily at the corners. I'm thinking there must be a way to protect the edges by sealing them up.

Maybe a thin film of glue, or clear nail-polish?

Any ideas and experience you can share would be highly appreciated!
 
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Emanuela
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I haven't had trouble with these tiles, personally, but I have been wondering about protecting the edges of some other things, myself. I'm not fond of the wear and tear already showing on the B sides of the Player Boards and Path Boards, but I'm hesitant to try any remedies without testing them (or hearing from someone else that they've done it and it works).

How about this for your chits/my boards: https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/938757/sealing-game-boards-...
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Lutz Pietschker
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SpecularRain wrote:
Maybe a thin film of glue, or clear nail-polish?


White glue (PVA glue, brands are Ponal, Elmers. The ideal stuff for the purpose.
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Shoosh shoo
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Ive done this a million times with a foam brush and modge podge ( its a watered down white glue). I just put a bit on the foam brush then lightly brush it onto the exposed edges. It will soak in and harden (and seal) the chits or gameboard or tile... Whatever ur sealing. If u end up bruahing any onto the face of the chit u can rub it off with ur fingers. It dries clear and i think u can also rub it off when it dries.

The whole idea is take ur time and dont put too much on the brush. Its a pain in the ass but helps a lot!
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Brett Smith
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I use modge podge for sealing up my pieces I want to last
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Adrian Schmidt
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shooshoo wrote:
Ive done this a million times with a foam brush and modge podge ( its a watered down white glue). I just put a bit on the foam brush then lightly brush it onto the exposed edges. It will soak in and harden (and seal) the chits or gameboard or tile... Whatever ur sealing. If u end up bruahing any onto the face of the chit u can rub it off with ur fingers. It dries clear and i think u can also rub it off when it dries.

The whole idea is take ur time and dont put too much on the brush. Its a pain in the ass but helps a lot!


I found this thing called "Mod Podge": https://www.skapamer.se/mod-podge-manufacturer-53

I assume that's the same thing?
 
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Joel Oakley
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Potential warning about modge podge: it tends to get very sticky if you expose it to any significant heat, at least in my experience. I once used some to protect some game components and later transported the game in a hot car in the summer. When I opened the game later, it was not a good scene.
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Shoosh shoo
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yes adrian thats the same stuff

The car must have been pretty damn hot! Ive never had anything like that happen to me before. Like I said you use the stuff sparingly... I never loaded it onto the pieces. all I used was just enough to go around the edges of the chits or board. So far nothing Ive done it too has got wrecked.
 
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Adrian Schmidt
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Joakley815 wrote:
Potential warning about modge podge: it tends to get very sticky if you expose it to any significant heat, at least in my experience. I once used some to protect some game components and later transported the game in a hot car in the summer. When I opened the game later, it was not a good scene.


Was that store-bought mod podge, or a home made variant? (I'm asking, because when googling mod podge, it seems very common that people make their own.)
 
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Adrian Schmidt
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EPratt wrote:
I haven't had trouble with these tiles, personally, but I have been wondering about protecting the edges of some other things, myself. I'm not fond of the wear and tear already showing on the B sides of the Player Boards and Path Boards, but I'm hesitant to try any remedies without testing them (or hearing from someone else that they've done it and it works).

How about this for your chits/my boards: https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/938757/sealing-game-boards-...


I found this video in that thread:



Really good video, if not specifically about sealing up chits only.

Spray-sealer or -lacquer sounds like it might do the trick with the edges while also protecting the faces of the chits. That might be really good for the workers that are slid in and out of the minis all the time.

I think I'll have to buy some different options and try them out on the punchboard sprues…
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Joel Oakley
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SpecularRain wrote:
Joakley815 wrote:
Potential warning about modge podge: it tends to get very sticky if you expose it to any significant heat, at least in my experience. I once used some to protect some game components and later transported the game in a hot car in the summer. When I opened the game later, it was not a good scene.


Was that store-bought mod podge, or a home made variant? (I'm asking, because when googling mod podge, it seems very common that people make their own.)


It was a store-bought mod podge.
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Shoosh shoo
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The reaaon i never used the spray is because if you dont get an even coat i tbink u get a funny appearance after. I did it for some tiles like descent and reloc runners and it turned out fine. Didnt seem to really reach the edges with the spray can.
 
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Shoosh shoo
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I cant imagine having to do so much maintenence for my games holy crap! Although i did take Love Letter to one of my grade 8 classes and this group of girls did a number on my card sleeves. They played that game more times in two days than i played in a year! I was happy to see them enjoying it so much.
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Drake Coker
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Quote:
Spray-sealer or -lacquer sounds like it might do the trick with the edges while also protecting the faces of the chits. That might be really good for the workers that are slid in and out of the minis all the time.


I don't think spray sealant will help with keeping the edges from splitting. It would need to be very heavy to have any effect, and that's risky from a fogging standpoint.

Thinned white glue sparingly applied is your best bet.
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Kris Ardianto
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As for the components, I think the triangle tiles are the oddly looking shape decision they made, though I think they must have pretty good reason for it.
Why it must be triangle? I think it's harder to pick up compares with square and round shapes.

And what worse is the triangle breakthrough tiles, it's not equilateral, which stacking becomes more fiddly and picking it up more difficult.
Was there a reason for this?
 
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Emanuela
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vardamir wrote:
And what worse is the triangle breakthrough tiles, it's not equilateral, which stacking becomes more fiddly and picking it up more difficult.
Was there a reason for this?


I noticed that, too!

When I noticed: "... That's weird. Why did these have to be isosceles triangles?..."
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Bart Rachemoss
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shooshoo wrote:
Ive done this a million times with a foam brush and modge podge ( its a watered down white glue). I just put a bit on the foam brush then lightly brush it onto the exposed edges. It will soak in and harden (and seal) the chits or gameboard or tile... Whatever ur sealing. If u end up brushing any onto the face of the chit u can rub it off with ur fingers. It dries clear and i think u can also rub it off when it dries.

The whole idea is take ur time and dont put too much on the brush. Its a pain in the ass but helps a lot!

Do you have any more tips on this? For example, what do you set the tokens on when they dry? Wax paper? 8mm cubes?
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Adrian Schmidt
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BitJam wrote:
shooshoo wrote:
Ive done this a million times with a foam brush and modge podge ( its a watered down white glue). I just put a bit on the foam brush then lightly brush it onto the exposed edges. It will soak in and harden (and seal) the chits or gameboard or tile... Whatever ur sealing. If u end up brushing any onto the face of the chit u can rub it off with ur fingers. It dries clear and i think u can also rub it off when it dries.

The whole idea is take ur time and dont put too much on the brush. Its a pain in the ass but helps a lot!

Do you have any more tips on this? For example, what do you set the tokens on when they dry? Wax paper? 8mm cubes?


Good point! I didn't even think of that. I guess plopping them down on newspaper to dry isn't a very good idea

I bought some regular office glue (the white liquid kind), and will probably try making some home made mod podge and sealing some test subjects cut from the punchboard spruces next week.
 
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Joel Oakley
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One glue that I have used for repairing box corners that had split during shipping is called "Acid Free" Glue and is specifically made for repairing books and other paper products without causing yellowing or discoloration (it dries clear and has worked excellently for repairing box corners). I found it at Hobby Lobby, but I am sure most other craft stores carry some version of it.

I noticed some warp tokens beginning to get dog-eared, and so I tried just a dot of the acid free glue to mend these few warp tokens. We'll see how they hold up over the next few days/weeks, and I'll report back. I probably would not coat the entire warp tile in any sort of glue, but I might end up sealing all the corners/edges with the acid free glue if it seems to hold up well.
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Shoosh shoo
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If u dont use a lot of glue/mod podge and just touch the edges then laying them down is ok. Doesnt take long for most of it to soak in. Wax paper would probably be the best option though.
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Adrian Schmidt
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I ended up "painting" them with Vallejo Polyurethane Matt Varnish, number 26.651, bought from here: https://www.hobbyland.se/product/vallejo-gloss-varnish-akryl...

I used a brush to apply the varnish to the edges of the chits, and then coated the faces with a thin layer, mostly to ensure an even look.

The result is that you can't even see that the chits have been varnished, but the edges hold together much better.

You have to be careful to only hold the chits by the edges while working, or there is a risk the printed layer will stick to your fingers and small flakes of it might come off. It happened when I was trying it out on pieces of a left over punchboard spruce.

Since the edges are what you want to varnish, more than the faces, it's pretty hard to only do one side as a time. Thus, I just varnished the whole chit at once, and placed them on "sandwich paper" ("smörgåspapper" in Swedish, not sure if it exists or what it's called in the rest of the world) to dry. The varnish did stick a little bit to the paper. I just moved them around a little as they were drying, but one of the breakthrough chits did get a small white line where the print got stuck to the paper. I think regular baking paper might have been a better choice, as I think it's a little bit more "non-stick" than sandwich paper.

I've done all the triangular chits, except the Chronobot's warp-tokens (because I forgot them). It's a bit of work, so I haven't done the other chits yet, but I'm pretty sure I'll do them all eventually. And I will definitely use this method if I need to protect chits from other games as well. I'm very very happy with the result!
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