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Xia: Legends of a Drift System» Forums » Variants

Subject: Sector MODS, build notes: successes and failures rss

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Trogdor The Burninator
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EDITED: 22 MAR, 2017.
After receiving great advice below, my method described here is definitely NOT the best way to build new sectors whistle. The idea is right, but the order is wrong.
The proper order should be:
-print out graphic on premium, heavy weight paper
-spray (or paint) on clear coat (not convinced that acrylic is the best)
-let dry completely for a few days, then cut out graphic
-trace out sector onto artist board (1/16", black)
-cut out sector with utility knife (new blades!) and metal ruler
-use spay-on adhesive to both surfaces
-ignore pretty much everything else I say below shake


First off, the best way to expand the Verse is to support the developer, Cody Miller, and buy the "Xia: Dev Kit" from the BGG store.

This is what I would have done except for 2 reasons: it's currently out of stock (fire up that printer, Cody!), and the shipping/duty/exchange rate quickly adds up if you are ordering outside of the U.S.

I decided to expand the game, using fan made MODS found on this forum with 19 sectors, multiple title cards, NPCs, mines, and a few other misc tiles. Everything is mounted on black, 1/16" artist board paper found at a craft store. Alternatively, you can go to the hardware store and buy something double the thickness (1/8",so new sectors will stick out) but at a fraction of the cost. A 48"X96" sheet of 1/8th "hardboard" costs the same as a 20"X30" of picture-frame board.

First, let's deal with the failures:

Do NOT use full-sheet sticker paper or "plain paper" to print out MODS. In order to make colors pop and extend the life of your creation, you will have to use a protective coating. Because of the porous nature of cheap paper, it will take several coats before you achieve a shine (I used Acrylic Satin clear coat). The paper/backing board absorbs a lot of clear coat to the point where I'm not sure if the paint smell will ever disappear. It also destroyed the bonding quality of my glue. Which brings me up to my next failure...

When using the above mentioned poor quality paper, do NOT use a glue stick. Instead, try white glue or carpenters glue (same, only stronger).
Even strong glue may de-laminate after being saturated with a clear coat, which also has a bleed-through effect that dulls the colors.

Warp-age. When the glue hardens, it tends to shrink/warp the board paper. Possible solution: glue the front graphic and the sector-back graphic at the same time.
DON'T use White OR Carpenter Glue, use spray-adhesive!

Ink printed on photo paper takes a while to dry. Don't touch for at least 10 minutes! Also, careful when loading it into printer. Finger prints will mess up your graphic.

Now for Success:

Ink Jet Photo Paper is naturally glossy, I found some at a dollar store. A protective clear coat would be optional, only needed if you and your friends are messy players. It's not as porous as regular paper and will help prevent bleed-through. It also protects the glue from de-laminating. Ensure that the outer perimeter of your sector/tile is completely covered with glue before you apply the graphic. High quality/heavy weight paper is a good alternative to photo paper. the Glossier, the better.

You CAN use plain paper for printing off Title/Mission/NPC cards. Just buy a bunch of plastic sleeves from your local hobby shop.

If there is a MOD sector you like but are afraid that a buy/sell or other tile may change game dynamics, print off more debris/asteroid tiles and cover that tile up! Use the last page in: Xia-Additional_sectors_by_LR99-v3.1

For LienRag99's additional NPC "Maslow's Lament", I used an old 4 sided dice for the ship.

Future project:

Using a chunk of 3/4" plumbing pipe (preferably copper), I'm going to sharpen one end and use it like a die cutter to punch out new exploration tokens. All it will require is a hammer and artist board.

If anyone has other advice on making new sectors, please respond. I'm sure there's always a better way. Already established that there IS a much better way.

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Randall
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Haven't produced any for myself yet, but I was planning to use Spray Adhesive/Mount. It is meant to mount thin flat things to flat surfaces so you won't have to deal with any of the warping, bubbles etc. We used it with great success for 18x24'' InkJet/LaserJet to black artboard with great success.

However, I do not know how it will hold up to a top coat.
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Cody Miller
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Ahh! Wow - I didn't expect the kits to go out of stock so soon! We've got another printing of the dev kits in the works (alongside the expansion) - and going to be sending some of them to the EU for cheaper distribution there.

Thanks for being awesome and expanding Xia!!!

Cheers, -Cody
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Trogdor The Burninator
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Thanks for being awesome by creating the game!

You win a Gold Star
 
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Daniel Rodriguez
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I always coat my printed items before I glue. The solvents in the coatings will liquefy the glue and everything will start to peel. I always use full sheet label stock, spray with acrylic, let dry at least 2 hours (overnight is actually better) and then peel and stick. If I'm using non stick paper, I coat first, then use spray glue and spray BOTH sides, wait one minute and stick. Havent had any issues at all!
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Trogdor The Burninator
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Quote:
I always coat my printed items before I glue. The solvents in the coatings will liquefy the glue and everything will start to peel. I always use full sheet label stock, spray with acrylic, let dry at least 2 hours (overnight is actually better) and then peel and stick. If I'm using non stick paper, I coat first, then use spray glue and spray BOTH sides, wait one minute and stick. Havent had any issues at all!


Daniel, your method is definitely the best. Since I spray-coated as my last step, the artist board has soaked up a lot of the Acrylic clear coat. It's been over a month and it's still not fully cured, and the smell is terrible. I now have my sectors on a drying rack that's placed near an open window. If this doesn't work, I may have to coat them with something else...or just buy whole new board game.

Thanks for the tips everyone. I should have asked BEFORE attempting to make new sectors.
 
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Daniel Rodriguez
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CrackTheSky wrote:
Quote:
I always coat my printed items before I glue. The solvents in the coatings will liquefy the glue and everything will start to peel. I always use full sheet label stock, spray with acrylic, let dry at least 2 hours (overnight is actually better) and then peel and stick. If I'm using non stick paper, I coat first, then use spray glue and spray BOTH sides, wait one minute and stick. Havent had any issues at all!


Daniel, your method is definitely the best. Since I spray-coated as my last step, the artist board has soaked up a lot of the Acrylic clear coat. It's been over a month and it's still not fully cured, and the smell is terrible. I now have my sectors on a drying rack that's placed near an open window. If this doesn't work, I may have to coat them with something else...or just buy whole new board game.

Thanks for the tips everyone. I should have asked BEFORE attempting to make new sectors.


One other tip is to use mutiple really light coats of the acrylic spray. You dont need a lot of it to protect the images and the lighter coats really cut down on the smell (which is truly awful). I've found that 2-3 light coats really does it for me and the smell is totally gone after 2-4 weeks.
 
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