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War of the Ring (Second Edition)» Forums » General

Subject: For those that painted their own rss

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Viet Tran
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Hello! I just started painting my own WotR set. Couldn't resist after seeing all the AE lol. Anyhow I bought this primer for miniatures at hobby lobby and it makes the figures look really grainy and I don't like it. Can anyone suggest some good primer that you used to paint these guys. I've used that primer before but for some reason it comes out differently on these minis


I ripped off the name when opening it but maybe some of you have seen it before. This is the one that didn't work well.

I already painted my nazgul with this grainy primer. I guess I'll just live with the fact that they look like that... they kinda look like Gargoyles in their stone form surprise

Thanks!
 
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Mike Daneman
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The P3 primer is very good and goes on smooth.
However, the Testors primer should be fine as well. I've used it before with good results, but not for a while. Are you maybe putting on too much of it?
 
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Mattias Elfström
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I used Citadel black spray primer on mine. Worked like a charm.
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Patrick
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I used Army Painter primer like many others and was pleased with the results.
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Brian Jones
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Mishenka wrote:
The P3 primer is very good and goes on smooth.
However, the Testors primer should be fine as well. I've used it before with good results, but not for a while. Are you maybe putting on too much of it?


In my experience the spray on white primers are the worst offenders when it comes to grain. I have tried several and do not like any of them.

I have had better luck with Army Painter grey and black spray-ons, and the best primer I have used has been a brush on black from Vallejo (but it does take longer).

Also, when it comes to spraying, humidity levels do matter. And you do not mention it, but it's a good idea to wash the minis first.
 
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Nick Case
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White car primer. I got mine from Halfords in the UK. Sprayed on my WotR figures over 10 years ago and got a perfect surface pre paint job using mainly acrylics. Much cheaper than all the other so called specialist paints sold in tiny tins for four times the price.
 
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Christian Alscher
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Usually grainy surfaces happen when it is to hot (the paint partially dries before it hits the model) and/or humidity is to high.
Where did you prime the models?
 
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Derry Salewski
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Big Bad Lex wrote:
White car primer. I got mine from Halfords in the UK. Sprayed on my WotR figures over 10 years ago and got a perfect surface pre paint job using mainly acrylics. Much cheaper than all the other so called specialist paints sold in tiny tins for four times the price.


Second edition has different plastic.

Not that your advice might not still work...
 
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Nick Case
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Perhaps I was too specific. I use the same primer for all my game minis. Most recently I used it for all the Scythe minis, Warriors of Middle Earth and have just started on Andrenaline. I usually spray them in my workshop which is dry and cool.
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Torben
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Two things to add:

1) Some People had bad experiences with Krylon primer
https://boardgamegeek.com/article/25067735#25067735
Maybe connected to the following point.

2) The plastic can make a difference. I've used army painter black primer on 2nd edition base game and LoMe figures. The latter are great, but the base game figures are kind of tacky, although they are dry. Painting them didn't change anything. Sealing them helped a bit. Since there were a couple of different print runs for the base game I assume there might be differences between base games too.
 
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Genestealer Patriarch
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If you don't like what you've done to the Nazgul and want to start again, Simple Green is the product a lot of people use for stripping plastic miniatures without damaging the models themselves. You soak the models in simple green followed by a gentle going over with a toothbrush. It's not really available in the UK, but seems to be pretty widespread in the US (I got some from Walmart).

However I haven't used it with these particular models. You might want to try a test piece first...
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Viet Tran
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Bhopal wrote:
Usually grainy surfaces happen when it is to hot (the paint partially dries before it hits the model) and/or humidity is to high.
Where did you prime the models?


yeah it is rather hot in las vegas right now. Not summertime hot but the sun is out. Thanks for the input!
 
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Viet Tran
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Mishenka wrote:
The P3 primer is very good and goes on smooth.
However, the Testors primer should be fine as well. I've used it before with good results, but not for a while. Are you maybe putting on too much of it?


Theres a chance im putting on too much. Im still new to this, I know onetime i put on too little and the paint would come off so maybe im overcompensating right now
 
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Zenphos Ruby-Eye
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Go to a games workshop store and buy Citadel paints. Or order them online I guess.
Although Games Workshop are the worst game designers in the business they make the best paints and it is worth paying the extra $$$ for them.
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Brian Jones
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Zenphos wrote:
Go to a games workshop store and buy Citadel paints. Or order them online I guess.
Although Games Workshop are the worst game designers in the business they make the best paints and it is worth paying the extra $$$ for them.


This may be true (maybe, sometimes) for their line of miniature paints, but for primer I do not think it matters that much - and you will pay more for Citadel primers, for no good reason.
 
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Brian Jones
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Big Bad Lex wrote:
Perhaps I was too specific. I use the same primer for all my game minis. Most recently I used it for all the Scythe minis, Warriors of Middle Earth and have just started on Andrenaline. I usually spray them in my workshop which is dry and cool.


Thanks Nick, I have heard that car primer works well. Care to share the specific brand you buy, or does it not really matter?

Dry and cool are key as well.
 
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Nick Case
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There is a car parts chain in the UK called Halfords. The white primer is their own brand and costs £7.49 for 500ml;

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/car-spra...

I don't think there is a Halfords in the USA but there is bound to be something similar. Here's the spec sheet from the web site (for what it's worth);

Halfords Primer Extra Info

Colour - White
Provides a tough durable protective coating
Advanced acrylic based formulation
Apply to existing paintwork or bare metal
Compatible with virtually all types of automotive paint
Can be used on cellulose finishes
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Salman Qaisar
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Big Bad Lex wrote:
There is a car parts chain in the UK called Halfords. The white primer is their own brand and costs £7.49 for 500ml;

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/car-spra...


Provides a tough durable protective coating
Advanced acrylic based formulation


Thanks Nick, that's very useful for those of us in UK who are thinking about learning to paint board-game minis.

Is their grey primer decent?

Any other supplies u would suggest to get for a beginner, which are cheaper than citadel etc + good + where to get them in UK?
Regards, Sal
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Nick Case
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I've used Halfords grey spray primer for darker finishes and it was equally good. A friend of mine did graphics at art college and painted up amazing figures for his D'n'D campaign. He taught me a few bits but the main one was the use of acrylics. Because these are water based they are very versatile and you can buy an artists set with a wide range of colours relatively inexpensively. Add some ink to wash over the figure and very nice effects are achievable with relatively little natural artistic ability.

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Kevin Ogilvie
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How is everyone protecting there painted minis then? assuming you don't have the trays from the C/E or the A/E.
 
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Nick Case
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I was disappointed by the trays that came with the CE because the Fellowship and Shadow forces are all mixed up on the same trays. As a result at set up you cannot just hand out two trays ad get on with it. So I made up new trays exclusively for each side with extra spaces for the expansion pieces too. Just to be cocky I also made space for the Mount Doom sculpt and two towers.
 
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Kevin Ogilvie
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Big Bad Lex wrote:
I was disappointed by the trays that came with the CE because the Fellowship and Shadow forces are all mixed up on the same trays. As a result at set up you cannot just hand out two trays ad get on with it. So I made up new trays exclusively for each side with extra spaces for the expansion pieces too. Just to be cocky I also made space for the Mount Doom sculpt and two towers.



Made your own? Nice, using foamcore or something?
 
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Nick Case
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Using 6mm ply. With the figures in it's quite heavy so I don't think foamcore would be strong enough. If I get the chance I'll post some pics. I did it just after the CE came out. Took me a lot longer to plan and build them than I guessed.
 
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