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Subject: painting miniatures question... rss

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Mike Santos
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Hey All,
I'm going to attempt to paint the plastic mini's from the D&D board games. I am using some Hobby Lobby acrylics. Just a quick question. What is the best thing to use as a finish? These guys will be handled quite a bit during game play so I was just curious what the pro's do?
Thanks!
 
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Jared Quintana
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make sure you wash them first with dish soap and water then let completely dry

then you need to prime them. I use Krylon primer ultra flat but there are a lot of other options. Krylon works fine, is cheap, and can be found at Hobby Lobby.
 
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Mike Santos
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Thanks, what about an ending finish?
 
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Jared Quintana
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Once they are washed, dried and primed I suggest you mount them on something you can hold. Pick up some poster putty, I use 'simply tacky', which I also get from Hobby Lobby. It only costs a few dollars and will go a long way.

I use soda bottle caps and stick a clump of putty and then the miniature on top. This is so you are not holding the miniature by the base which will rub off the paint.

as to finishing I use DullCoat
 
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Jared Quintana
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It is Testors Dullcote. I have also used Tree house studio clear acrylic matte which is a bit cheaper per volume and I get both from hobby lobby.

I have tried quite a few and some say that they are matte but leave a shine. Those two above I have found to be the best matte finish.

I will tend to use the tree house for the first two coats and then finish with the dullcote because I have found it to be the best matte. I use it last as it is the most expensive.
 
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Freelance Police
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Do a search on "miniature painting sealant".

I don't bother sealing my miniatures, but they mostly stay at home and I don't play with them as much as I'd like. I do keep them protected in storage boxes, so they don't jostle each other. I also tell others to pick up the miniatures by the base, not the figure. I think it's the basing that's the most likely to be damaged, not the paint job.

If you're new to painting, pick up the Reaper Learn to Paint Kits rather than craft paints. Craft paints are best for terrain and bases. You can find the kits on Amazon for $30 each. Pick up some natural hair brushes with fine tips from the hobby store, as well as Pink Soap to condition the brushes. Last I heard, Hobby Lobby also carries Vallejo paint -- not bad with a discount coupon!
 
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Jared Quintana
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If you really want to protect the mini I have heard to use a glossy finish then overcoat with a matte.

I do this sometimes for the bases when there is the colored ring used in the game (Conan, The Others).

I use a brush on glossy (Daler/Rowney) then, once dry, I use the matte spray.

Also, if you have a "wet" area you want to stand out, you can finish with the glossy to give it that shiny, wet look.
 
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Jared Quintana
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I use the vallejo paints (because I can get them from Hobby Lobby ) they are much better then the hobby acrylics. (Although they are more expensive).

I also use some airbrush paints and inks.

If you do use the hobby acrylics just make sure you thin them. You can use straight water or make your own thinners. I would also suggest using a wet palette rather than a dry one.
 
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Mike Santos
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Wow!!! Thank you Jared for the complete information. Great tips. Much appreciated!!!

ThanksmeepleDppD
 
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Jared Quintana
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No problem and good luck.

Also, there is a Miniature Painters Guild (number 909) I believe.

There is a lot of good info there.
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Chris Robbins
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Pledge floor polish (formerly known as Future and is not a wax) has been a popular sealer for master modelers for years.

Think about what a floor polish is made to endure. Yes, it's shiny, but then you can coat whatever parts need it with a matte finish, and that's all you'll likely have to touch up forever.
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Paul Burkart
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I've had good luck with (1) craft paints for painting things, and (2) craft paint sealers on various items. They're probably not as heavy-duty or as high quality as some of the other items mentioned earlier, but they're cheap and easy to work with if you want to brush on a sealer. I've had good experiences specifically with Americana's DuraClear -- the satin varnish is pretty glossy (the glossy one is ultra glossy), and the matte one is almost a complete matte finish. It'll take a couple of coats, but it's all water-soluble, easy to clean up, and looks pretty decent.

If you prefer to spray, then Krylon and Rustoleum are the easiest to find (Home Depot, Lowe's, Walmart, and most hobby stores will carry them), and Testors is probably the best on the market (although harder to find and considerably more expensive for what you get). I used Testors Dullcote on model ships that I made as a kid, and those things are still protected 15-20 years later.
 
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Jordan Ackerman
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Two coats of Testor's Glosscote (let them dry for at least 24 hours between each coat) followed by one coat of Testor's Dullcote (again let it dry for at least 24 hours). That's right, it takes a minimum of three days to put the final seal on this way, so perhaps try to have four or so figures that get their final seal at one time.

The two layers of gloss lacquer gives you protection and the matte lacquer at the end takes away the shine from the gloss.

It is a little overkill, but you will have professionally sealed minis if you do this.

When buying Testor's spray lacquers, you have to really look for whether it is glossy or matte. There will be a little bit of text on the the bar code section, usually added by the store. The only way to distinguish the two lacquer types is by the plastic cap on the top. For the glosscote, it is a clear plastic top, while the dullcote has a frosted plastic top.

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Testors Dullcote or Krylon Matte Finish which are both sold at Hobby Lobby are what I use for this.
 
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Thaddeus MacTaggart
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Personally I use Vallejo varnishes.

Works fine. The only thing I noticed is that metallics can get dull/greyish when using matte varnish so I usually give those parts a glossy coat.
 
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