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Subject: [Amazon] Axis and Allies 1942 2nd -$33 rss

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Big Sixer
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Lowest I've seen in a long time for a pretty good game.
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Kevin L. Kitchens
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Bigsixer wrote:
Lowest I've seen in a long time for a pretty good game.


Shame Amazon no longer uses urls to their pages. :/
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Curt Keller
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klkitchens wrote:
Bigsixer wrote:
Lowest I've seen in a long time for a pretty good game.


Shame Amazon no longer uses urls to their pages. :/


I guess if the OP won't do it...



BGG info

CamelCamelCamel all time low price $30.84, Dec 18, 2014

$31.51 $33.06 Amazon
$42.03 $33.06 $34.69 Walmart
$42.25 CardHaus
$43.59 MiniatureMarket
$44.99 CoolStuffInc
$51.99 FunAgainGames
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John B

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Thanks, I was watching this game at $36 and $33 was enough to get me to buy it. I have the theatre/battle versions but did not have the base game. Now I need to find reasonably priced 1914 A&A.

After getting the 1942 version is there any reason to get the 1941 game?
 
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Jeff Yeackle
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Degg wrote:
After getting the 1942 version is there any reason to get the 1941 game?


1941 is good to have on hand when...

...introducing new players to A&A or playing with younger gamers

...wanting to play but having less time available

...wanting the extra pieces to use in other A&A games

1941 is currently $15.99 which is pretty cheap, and the lowest it's ever been was $12.79 according to CCC.
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John B

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Thanks Jeff!
 
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For the moves
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I'm having a hard time understanding how combat works in this game. Can anyone explain before I take the plunge? I tried reading the rule book but still can't understand it.
 
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Wayne W
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1914 was a steal at $39 just the other day on Amazon. I was able to grab a copy which is preparing for shipment now. Keep an eye out because it might show back up at that price if they get more.

I really want to get the 1940 pair, but I'm spoiled after the 1914 deal. If I get those and have 1941 ($3 at goodwill) do I really need 1942?
 
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Jeff Yeackle
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WayneCW wrote:
I really want to get the 1940 pair, but I'm spoiled after the 1914 deal. If I get those and have 1941 ($3 at goodwill) do I really need 1942?


I would base it on your experience with 1941. If you and your group enjoy it but feel it's just a little too light (or quick), 1942 would probably be a perfect fit as it would ramp up the complexity some and add a few hours (or more). If it's way too light and your group normally enjoys and can get together for much deeper and longer or multi-day game sessions, 1940 can be an epic dice rolling blast.

Take a look at the pictures to get an idea of how the three maps of each version differ, not only in physical size (1940 global takes up a ton of room) but how the zones are defined.
 
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I've been reading about balancing issues, even with bidding before games. Should I be concerned if I'm buying this?
 
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Jeff Yeackle
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For_the_moves wrote:
I've been reading about balancing issues, even with bidding before games. Should I be concerned if I'm buying this?


Depends on what you're looking for from the game. A&A is a dice fest first and foremost, so it should never be taken too seriously. If you don't like strategy games that can have wild swings of luck, A&A probably isn't for you. If you like dice heavy games, I wouldn't be concerned and the 1942 2nd edition is one of the most balanced editions out there and the most similar to the 1984 release.

All the various editions of A&A have been tinkered with post release to correct perceived balance issues, with bidding being one of the popular fixes with some players. Whether or not this is necessary depends on the players, their varying skill levels and the edition they're playing. For example, A&A 2004 was released to correct balance issues in the 1984 edition, but ended up screwing it up more. The tournament rules for that edition though are the ones most players end up using.

If you get the game and happen to play it enough with the same players to start to notice any balance issues, then you can introduce one of the variants or other balancing suggestions that you feels fits best. If you don't play it oodles, then about the only problem you'll probably encounter is being unlucky now and then but that's just part of this type of game.
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jyeackle wrote:

Depends on what you're looking for from the game. A&A is a dice fest first and foremost, so it should never be taken too seriously. If you don't like strategy games that can have wild swings of luck, A&A probably isn't for you. If you like dice heavy games, I wouldn't be concerned and the 1942 2nd edition is one of the most balanced editions out there and the most similar to the 1984 release.


Thanks for the response. I'm all for the randomness of the dice, but I'm asking about the lack of balance between sides. Based on my readings, the Axis is way more likely to win over the Allies hence the reason for some players using bidding with IPCs when selecting a side. If this is true, should it be something that I should be worried about?
 
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Keith Lommel
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Wow... now down to $31.51! Great deal! I was quite happy to get this on sale at $37.73 just a few weeks ago... now I wish I had held out a little longer. Too bad Amazon no longer does price matches.
 
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Clint
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I have the 2004 Edition. Any reason to get this version?
 
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Jeff Yeackle
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For_the_moves wrote:
Based on my readings, the Axis is way more likely to win over the Allies hence the reason for some players using bidding with IPCs when selecting a side. If this is true, should it be something that I should be worried about?


Anyone answering that specifically would have to know a lot more about you which is why my 2nd and 3rd paragraphs spoke in general terms. A lot of people play the game as is without an issue. Some have modified it to fit their tastes while others have gone with a different edition or just walked away completely. Several years after 1942SE came out you had people on both sides of the balance question. It's now five years later and only last month has Larry made public some potential alterations to the game in this thread (which are themselves being debated on another A&A forum):

https://www.harrisgamedesign.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=43&t...

I recommend watching a few play through videos to see how the game plays (which would answer your combat question above too), and then ask yourself if adding a bidding or alternate setup would bother you should you and your group find you need it. You might also want to check out 1941 which I've read is fairly well balanced due to its overall simplicity (I bought it for parts but hope to get a play in someday).
 
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Jeff Yeackle
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fenriswolf11 wrote:
I have the 2004 Edition. Any reason to get this version?


If you play it a lot, track down the 2004 version tournament rules and try those if you haven't yet as they'll breath new life into the game.

I recommend downloading and reading the 1942SE rules. That should give you a good idea of the changes and new units and help you decide if those are exiting enough to warrant purchasing a new version. Check out all the pictures in the game entry too, as some have upgraded solely to ditch the 2004 map.

If you find yourself liking what you see, you could probably sell your 2004 version and make enough to cover the cost of 1942SE.
 
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Aaron Silverman
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For_the_moves wrote:
I'm having a hard time understanding how combat works in this game. Can anyone explain before I take the plunge? I tried reading the rule book but still can't understand it.


Do you have any specific questions? What part is confusing?
 
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jyeackle wrote:
For_the_moves wrote:
Based on my readings, the Axis is way more likely to win over the Allies hence the reason for some players using bidding with IPCs when selecting a side. If this is true, should it be something that I should be worried about?


Anyone answering that specifically would have to know a lot more about you which is why my 2nd and 3rd paragraphs spoke in general terms. A lot of people play the game as is without an issue. Some have modified it to fit their tastes while others have gone with a different edition or just walked away completely. Several years after 1942SE came out you had people on both sides of the balance question. It's now five years later and only last month has Larry made public some potential alterations to the game in this thread (which are themselves being debated on another A&A forum):

https://www.harrisgamedesign.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=43&t...

I recommend watching a few play through videos to see how the game plays (which would answer your combat question above too), and then ask yourself if adding a bidding or alternate setup would bother you should you and your group find you need it. You might also want to check out 1941 which I've read is fairly well balanced due to its overall simplicity (I bought it for parts but hope to get a play in someday).


Thanks for the feedback. Knowing myself, winning while playing the stronger side would drive me crazy.


DJ Kuul A wrote:
For_the_moves wrote:
I'm having a hard time understanding how combat works in this game. Can anyone explain before I take the plunge? I tried reading the rule book but still can't understand it.


Do you have any specific questions? What part is confusing?


I think I got it figured out. What was confusing was the 1:1 ratio between the dice and units which made me think of the horror of rolling 12 dice at once if I had 12 infantry in one battle.
 
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Kevin Jackson
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I grabbed a copy of 1942. I read that 1942 is short some components for a full set up. Is that true? If yes, are components in 1941 compatible and could be used with 1942?
 
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Jeff Yeackle
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Kinoboy wrote:
I grabbed a copy of 1942. I read that 1942 is short some components for a full set up. Is that true? If yes, are components in 1941 compatible and could be used with 1942?


The 1st edition of 1942 has that issue, along with very different rules. If you bought 2nd edition you'll be fine. The only reason to get 1941 from a piece perspective if you have 1942SE would be for additional physical units (vs chips) or some variety as 1941 has some different sculpts, but it's totally unnecessary.
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H.E. Pennypacker
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Dead, $40 now. Guess I shouldn't have waited.
 
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Big Sixer
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H E Pennypacker wrote:
Dead, $40 now. Guess I shouldn't have waited.


It goes up and down, check on it periodically and you might find it down in this range again.
 
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