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Shadows of Brimstone: City of the Ancients» Forums » General

Subject: Absolutely Awful, Horrible, Hero Miniatures? rss

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navajas
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My hootin' holy hadrosaur, are these just the shittiest models I've ever owned.

Preface, the models in the first two core sets sucked, but I mean, it was their first go around and they were at least buildable with some fuss and fidget. Forgivable. (If perhaps the monotony of gamelpay was not.)

Next we picked up our Wave 2 in Redmond and built all the bad guys. Boy howdy what a difference. Apparently they learned their lessons well with the core release because these were all GREAT! Better sculpts, far better plastics, and better engineering. Got me excited to play a game that I thought I was never going to bother with again.

And then...

I started building the heroes. What the hell plastic is this? It's ugly, brittle, pebbled like sand paper, flash and slag are all over the models, and it is almost INVULNERABLE to plastic cement. I have had the same model curing for almost 60 minutes and it's still wobbly.

*sigh*

This sucks. :-/
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Scott Everts
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The heroes are done in resin and will need super glue. I used Gorilla gap filling super glue and it worked well.

I agree they are a super pain to assemble.
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Marcus Taylor
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Yes, this.

My partner arranged for them to be assembled and professionally painted for my birthday, because he was sick of me whining about it.

They still don't look great, but they look okay now.
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Mark Pierce
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Yep, awful. They will swap out the worst I am told if you contact them. Make sure to clean them very very well. I am told that vinegar works well for a long soak, or Simple Green. I still expect my rifles to snap off again on the table at some point soblue

The upside is some of the models do have better detail than most of the models, but I would have still rather had them in the same plastic as the base games.
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Sid Rain
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You'll also want to thoroughly wash off the resin miniatures beforehand (soap & water should be good), there's some type of release agent that's usually on them that can also prevent glue from sticking on those. I've been using Loctite Super Glue and that's been working well for me. Washing the miniatures off made a YUGE difference for me. Before that I'd hold the stupid things for minutes on end trying to get the glue to stick and getting frustrated as hell.
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Jee Fu
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Chances of gluing yourself to yourself while assembling resin minis: 100%

- Jee
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Rusty Shackleford
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I thought resin miniatures were supposed to be more fancy and awesome? Are they really just more brittle and hard to glue?
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Klutz
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Well, this thread is depressing...

Gosh darnit FFP
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Julien Le Jeune
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corgibuttz wrote:
I thought resin miniatures were supposed to be more fancy and awesome? Are they really just more brittle and hard to glue?


There are more than one kind of resin. This one is the shitty kind.
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Ryan DeLano
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Resin, man. Not even once.
 
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navajas
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For what it's worth, I washed the hell out of these with warm (NOTE, just warm) water and soap. I'm not a new kid to the model game. (I have owned 10s of 1000s of points in 40k models, etc...) I just have never encountered anything quite as garbage-like as these minis.

WARNING: This is SUCH shitty material even warm, NOT hot, just pretty warm water makes these things have the consistency of, I don't know, bubble gum? Like stiff chewed buble gum?
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John
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navajas wrote:
For what it's worth, I washed the hell out of these with warm (NOTE, just warm) water and soap. I'm not a new kid to the model game. (I have owned 10s of 1000s of 40k models, etc...) I just have never encountered anything quite as garbage like as these minis.

WARNING: This is SUCH shitty material even warm, NOT hot, just pretty warm water makes these things have the consistency of, I don't know, bubble gum? Like stiff chewed buble gum?


I used a spray that causes the glue to set faster. After that it was a breeze.
 
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Matteo B.
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All right. Then, fine. The title is "Cheese Song". Eh-hem. Hn... Here I go:
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navajas wrote:
WARNING: This is SUCH shitty material even warm, NOT hot, just pretty warm water makes these things have the consistency of, I don't know, bubble gum? Like stiff chewed buble gum?


Ouch, I feel sick just reading these things soblue
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Javier Jimenez
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Oh jeez...I was so looking forward to the resin preview minis.
 
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Daniel Kearns
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navajas wrote:
For what it's worth, I washed the hell out of these with warm (NOTE, just warm) water and soap. I'm not a new kid to the model game. (I have owned 10s of 1000s of 40k models, etc...) I just have never encountered anything quite as garbage like as these minis.

WARNING: This is SUCH shitty material even warm, NOT hot, just pretty warm water makes these things have the consistency of, I don't know, bubble gum? Like stiff chewed buble gum?


Okay, I was with you till this.

Brittle? Impossible to glue? Microscopic hands? Yep yep yep.

But bubble gum? Haven't seen that yet. Something to look forward to I guess.

 
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Jee Fu
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To be fair, they look 1000% better than anything else on the playing field once you get them put together. It's not impossible; it's just harder to do than any other assembly thus far. And if you use primer that works on like, cars, then you shouldn't have a problem painting them either.

- Jee
 
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Njorl
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navajas wrote:
For what it's worth, I washed the hell out of these with warm (NOTE, just warm) water and soap. I'm not a new kid to the model game. (I have owned 10s of 1000s of 40k models, etc...) I just have never encountered anything quite as garbage like as these minis.

WARNING: This is SUCH shitty material even warm, NOT hot, just pretty warm water makes these things have the consistency of, I don't know, bubble gum? Like stiff chewed buble gum?


This definitely sounds like you have a particularly bad batch of minis. My Rancher was pock marked, and I can see how enough holes could cause this. The majority of my minis (excepting the piano player and aforementioned Rancher that got replaced) were in great shape, and I used a product called citra-solv (the concentrate, not spray cleaner). This stuff will literally turn plastic into goo (I soaked some bases too and you could slice through them like butter). However, it won't even remotely soften resin. No idea why or how, but it works perfectly without so much as a blemish. I soak it in about 1 ounce of citra-solv concentrate to 10 ounce water. Then give it a good strong brushing. If the mold release still persists use some of the straight concentrate with a brush and give them a good solid brushing(not a soak as I can't tell you what would happen with longterm straight concentrate.

I'm inept with this kind of stuff and I've done it to all of my 20+ resin minis without a scratch, ding, break, or bend. If you get any other results, the batch you have is definitely faulty and you should get it replaced. I've seen images posted by folks where several of their resin minis were terribly pockmarked and completely unacceptable.
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Jason La Mar
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I haven't had a chance to assemble Wave 2.0 heroes but when it came to 1.5, I had no issue with assembly. Well I should clarify, I had same amount of issues I had when assembling any model. Some went well and some were more of a pain.

A good example is I was just assembling the Werewolves for Wave 2.0 and most came together rather easily but one of the werewolf's arm needed some extra care to stay together for whatever reason.
 
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Jee Fu
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Yeah and word to the wise:

1) There are two different types of Crimson Hand models. You may be tempted to think that there is only one type, and that half of them just don't go together correctly due to some sort of screw up. This is not the case. There are two types of models. I repeat, TWO types. Do not force cloak A on top of body B. Shi'hai!

2) The assembly guide for The Ancient One is misleading in regard to the face tentacles. If you follow it, you will glue all of them in the wrong place. If you decide not to follow it - trusting in your mortal instincts - you will end up with 1/5 of them in the wrong place. If you're like me you will spend hours gluing and re-gluing it trying to divine the proper way to pay homage to Old Ones, all the while wondering what eternal punishment you are forging for yourself simply because THIS 5TH TENTACLE HAS NO PHYSICAL PLACE IN SPACE-TIME. IT IS ONE WITH THE VOID. IT DREAMS AND WE WRITHE IN TORMENTED ECSTASY.

I got it eventually.

- Jee

P.S. the Tentacle That Shouldn't Be goes underneath the rest of them, hidden underneath His Magnificence, away from all but the maddest eyes. It has no obvious place of dwelling, as the others do, for it is both bound and free.
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Daniel Kearns
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Navajas, which sets are you having the most trouble with?
 
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Chad Hanneman
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I have been using Army Painters Quickshade Varnish prior to priming if anyone is having issues with paint or primer sticking. It is working really well without losing detail.

Chad
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Death Jester
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I replaced all the Hero miniatures with Black Scorpion proxies. Then I thought I'd sell the originals online but remembered I wouldn't want to inflict pain on another and threw them in the bin instead.
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navajas
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dkearns wrote:
Navajas, which sets are you having the most trouble with?


All the heroes from Outlaw plus Samurai and Gambler (which were no better).
 
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navajas
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DeathJester23 wrote:
I replaced all the Hero miniatures with Black Scorpion proxies. Then I thought I'd sell the originals online but remembered I wouldn't want to inflict pain on another and threw them in the bin instead.


Care to elaborate with pics / links?
 
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Joe Price
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As a note, for a stronger super glue bond on these, I lightly score the junction points with an Exacto knife. I typically do a couple of light hash marks (#). The extra ridges and valleys created by this provide more surface area at different angles to the original join surface which gives more grip to the super glue. So far, I haven't had a single resin model joint fail. I also only glue them after washing because release agent can be a problem for glue as well as paint/primer (which is just a special type of adhesive).
 
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