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Subject: Painted Miniatures sources rss

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Tony Holt
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I've thought for a while that I might like to try miniature war gaming, but a barrier to entry, for me, would be that I have virtually no artistic ability at all. The idea of painting miniatures is enough to almost literally scare me to paralysis.

Additionally, I have a couple of traditional war board games that I'd like to "bling out" by adding some miniatures to. But the same problem as above persists.

Additionally, I have no idea what all these "scale" numbers I'm seeing mean. I assume they have something to do with the size of the pieces, but a 15 mm, for example, can't be the piece's actual size, can it?

So, any help would be appreciated. Where's the best place to get painted miniatures? What are the different sizes/scales and what do they mean?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Tony
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Derry Salewski
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The scale usually means the height to the eyes on a human. So yeah a 15mm guy is not very big. You'd likely have multiples on a base.

Some games come prepainted.

You can pay people to paint for you. There are facebook groups, a guild here, game specific forums, local stores, etc.

It's a big scary world
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Andrew N
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In terms of miniatures scale, the mm scales are (supposedly) the distance from the feet to the eyes of the figure. 10mm is roughly 1/285 scale, 15mm is roughly 1/120, 20mm is roughly 1/93, 25mm is roughly 1/72, 28mm is roughly 1/64. Anything larger than that isn't generally used for miniatures gaming.

Painted minis are around, but often very expensive. One of the cheaper options might be buying single Axis & Allies miniatures. There are several web retailers that sell them.

It might be cheaper to buy the minis you want and find someone that does a painting service. There are probably a ton of people here on BGG and The Miniatures Page (TMP) would be another place to check out. It also depends on the number and scale of miniatures you want, and how nice you want them to look.

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Roger Hobden
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The Complete Brigadier is a miniatures game that comes with it's own cardboard pieces, so no need to paint anything.



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Kent Reuber
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If you're going to get into miniatures wargaming, it's good to think about a few parameters:

1. How much storage space do you have? The smaller the scale, the less space you need for units and other things like buildings, trees, etc.

2. How much play space do you have? A number of rules use tables of 6'x4'. If you only have a kitchen table (e.g., 4'x3'), this may restrict what rules you can use, or again, it may restrict you to smaller scale figures where you can reduce the movement rates and firing ranges.

3. Number of players? A number of wargames are designed for 1-vs-1 play. Others are designed for multiple players.

I've painted some figures, but I take forever. I've gotten so that I buy painted figures (typically 15mm) from eBay. There are also painting services, where you can have someone else paint the figures for you.
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David Janik-Jones
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10mm and painting services FTW!

Then add Arty Conliffe's masterpiece CrossFire, or Peter Pig's PBI 3 rules, and away we go!
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Jim Patching
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If you're talking World War 2 miniatures you'd be surprised how easily you can get a decent looking paint job - paint uniforms basic uniform colour, pink faces, black guns, cover the whole thing with a dark wash and hey presto! Obviously you could go a lot more detailed than that but just doing the above would look decent.

If you're talking more colourful, historical gaming then more work would be required!
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Edmund Proctor
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It is possible to get miniatures painted for you. There many painters who make a living out of it (including companies in the Far East).

There are two basic standerd of paint quality; Hiqh quality paint jobs, which you see on the front of games magazines which cost allot or Wargames Standerd which is allot cheeper. Remember when your miniatures are on a table you cannot see the detail, so most wargammers will go for Wargames Standerd, through they might pay out on a command group.

So what of type miniature gaming you are planning to do, Skirmish, Squard or Big Battle?

For more info on miniatures check out the BGG wiki on Miniatures.
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Aaron Yoder
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You really, really don't need to have any artistic talent at all to make models look good from a distance. The smaller they are, the easier it is.
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Curtis Kitchens
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Quote:
10mm is roughly 1/285 scale, 15mm is roughly 1/120, 20mm is roughly 1/93, 25mm is roughly 1/72, 28mm is roughly 1/64. Anything larger than that isn't generally used for miniatures gaming.

I'm sorry but this is not that accurate. 6mm is roughly 1/288 to 1/300. 20mm is roughly 1/72 to 1/76.
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Carl Marl
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After you get your soldiers sorted out, there's also terrain to consider. It's expensive too if you want to do it well. I do think that in the miniature hobby it's more about the building terrain and painting miniatures than actually playing the games.
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Con
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The size of minis is alternatively sometimes measured to the top of the head.

If you are getting into minis gaming, remember that you will need two sides. For many, perhaps most, this means choosing scales, periods and rules sets also used by others with whom they can meet up.

I have had good experiences with Sri Lankan painting services.
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Tony Broad
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You can have some decent small unit games in most periods with 28mm which with the advent of better plastic moulding techniques means you don't have to spend too much on figures......plus I find 28's easier to paint.

YouTube has some really good videos on "speed painting" techniques too....go on take the plunge!
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Confusion Under Fire
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This might not sound very appealing but it is something you might want to try before taking the plunge.
Print out some of the soldiers onto card from http://www.juniorgeneral.org/ and play a small game with them. The very first metal miniatures were called "Flats" because they were 2 dimensional.

Playing with minis is a very different experience to board wargaming and some wargamers who try to make the transition to minis find a few niggling things that they can't overcome. Creeping ranges and moving terrain to name a couple of them. This probably isn't the thread to go into more detail but I do advise you to try the cheaper option before spending $200 on a small set up.
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Edmund Proctor
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Get into De Bellis Antiquitatis with 15mm miniatures. Thare some companies who do pre-painted armys for it and you only need 12 elements a side, with a 2 foot square playing area and a little terrain.
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Eddy Sterckx
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whatambush wrote:

Print out some of the soldiers onto card from http://www.juniorgeneral.org/ and play a small game with them.


Our setup for "Paper Wars" - as presented at Crisis 2011

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Edmund Proctor
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eddy_sterckx wrote:
whatambush wrote:

Print out some of the soldiers onto card from http://www.juniorgeneral.org/ and play a small game with them.


Our setup for "Paper Wars" - as presented at Crisis 2011



You could use the De Bellis Antiquitatis rules with paper miniatures or just use squares of cardboard to experience the game.
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Edwin S
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I did this once with two different coloured A2 sheets of foamcore - you can cut out any combination of base sized elements for two armies and label them with the element type in non-permanent marker. They look a bit like Kriegspiel blocks, and you can play Big Battle DBA with whatever armies you like for under £20 (this was when you could get DBA itself for £10...).
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Lang Jones
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Painting miniatures is its own separate hobby, and commissioned painters aren't cheap.

If you find a good game that comes pre-painted PLEASE let me know.
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Eddy Sterckx
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redstarnyc wrote:

If you find a good game that comes pre-painted PLEASE let me know.


What you're asking for is a unicorn - in the miniature world all figs are unpainted, unless they're second hand or you pay someone to paint them for you.

Even in the regular boardgame world they're rare - I have only seen it with 3 games actually : Claustrophobia, X-Wing and its forebear Wings of War. You can buy aftermarket painted figs for some other games (Fury of Dracula, Shadows over Camelot, ..) but then you again pay for what you get.
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Bob Zurunkel
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You can buy pre-painted minis for Dust 1947, but they aren't cheap.
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Lance
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I used to not be able to paint either, but that was before I started. All things are scary or seem like to much effort till you get started. I'd recommend finding a small skirmish game to start with (Song of Blades and Heroes is always my recommendation there), grab a handful of cheap Reaper Bones miniatures and a basic paint set from one of the miniature paint companies and have at it. And just remember if the first one looks crap, you can make the second one look better, and so on, till you're proud of what you produce.

As has been mentioned above though, for some of us the painting and terrain making become more important than the actual game. Few other games have you spend more time in preparation for a game than playing it than a miniature game, but then what else were you going to do with all that non-gaming time anyway?
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Bill Massey
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Before you give up completely on painting, give it a try. A few evenings on You Tube will let you know the basics. Just go to a toy store and buy a cheap bag of soldiers, any nation, any period. Get the few colors you need, a few brushes etc, and just go ahead and paint them. If you start with the attitude this is a learning experience, and plan to throw them away when you are done, it is not so scary. If you hate it, fine, you are out a few bucks and a few evenings of time. If you find you can paint "good enough to play with", then pick out the rules and period you like best, and get real figures for your real game. Good Luck.
 
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Greg Moore
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ConG wrote:
If you are getting into minis gaming, remember that you will need two sides. For many, perhaps most, this means choosing scales, periods and rules sets also used by others with whom they can meet up.


You are really best off having both sides and having everything to play and not rely on others. People will play whatever you are putting on.
 
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Eddy Sterckx
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billmassey wrote:
If you find you can paint "good enough to play with"


The #1 thing people who start with painting do not realize is that you don't judge your painting skills holding the figure up close to your eyes, you judge it by putting it on the table and taking a step back because that's how you're going to see the figure when you play.

Basecoat, block paint, highlight, dip and making sure the bases look good gets you there - and pretty much everybody can do that.
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