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Subject: What various materials/tools do we need before the game arrives? rss

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BG.EXE
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Hi all,

I'm making sure I have everything I need before the game arrives. I figure it doesn't hurt to be ready early, my glue took a month to ship after all.

I currently have a 40ml bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Glue, an Xcelite 170M flush cutter for taking things off sprues, and a set of 5 mini diamond files to clean those cuts and any flashing. Currently I do not plan to paint any of this myself, so I'm leaving painting materials off my list.

I'm also aware of this sleeve calculator and plan to sleeve the cards that are shuffled. Considering more as well due to the cost of the game.

Is there anything I'm missing that I'll wish I had when the game shows up? Also is 40ml of the glue enough? The bottle seems small. I know you only use a little bit per piece but there's a lot of game in this game.

Thanks for any thoughts!
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Lonny x
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I use an exacto knife in addition to files.
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Shawn R.
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You have all the things I have. The bottle of glue will last forever... I've just put together Before the Wall, Beyond the Wall, Percival, and the Flower Knight and you can't tell I opened the bottle.
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BG.EXE
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Awesome! I forgot to include that I have exactos as well. Nice, eager for this thing to ship. Hopefully not toooooooo much longer here.
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Nick Wirtz
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Yep, that sounds right, and +1 on plastic cement lasting forever. As a commission painter, I think I go through my 30ml (1oz) bottles every 1-1.5 years.

Personally, I don't like using files on anything but metal, since it tends to just slightly shred plastics' surface.
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André Silveira
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boardgamesdotEXE wrote:
Hi all,

I'm making sure I have everything I need before the game arrives. I figure it doesn't hurt to be ready early, my glue took a month to ship after all.

I currently have a 40ml bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Glue, an Xcelite 170M flush cutter for taking things off sprues, and a set of 5 mini diamond files to clean those cuts and any flashing. Currently I do not plan to paint any of this myself, so I'm leaving painting materials off my list.

I'm also aware of this sleeve calculator and plan to sleeve the cards that are shuffled. Considering more as well due to the cost of the game.

Is there anything I'm missing that I'll wish I had when the game shows up? Also is 40ml of the glue enough? The bottle seems small. I know you only use a little bit per piece but there's a lot of game in this game.

Thanks for any thoughts!


IF possible, IF! try to buy a Green Knight expansion. It's rather cheap, and you may train your abilities. I did that and I did a LOT of things I'd rather not do, so I think it was worth it. I learnt a lot.

Also, are you magnetizing the minis? If you are, you really should try on dummys, ahahahahha.
 
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Biff Drinkwater
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spiralingcadaver wrote:
Yep, that sounds right, and +1 on plastic cement lasting forever. As a commission painter, I think I go through my 30ml (1oz) bottles every 1-1.5 years.

Personally, I don't like using files on anything but metal, since it tends to just slightly shred plastics' surface.


Yeah, I wouldn't use files on plastic. Just stick with an exacto knife or equivalent. Use the blade for cutting off flash and the dull edge for scraping off mold lines.

One thing you might consider is simply priming the miniatures even if you don't plan on painting them. IMO miniatures with a single color, flat primer look significantly better than naked ones (especially metal). I'd recommend Krylon Grey Ultraflat.
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David Tolin
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Rotsh01 wrote:
The bottle of glue will last forever...


Unless you have a frisky and unpredictable cat with really bad timing. angry
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Nick Wirtz
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I really disagree with the GK recommendation:

The green armor is some of the most finnicky of all the KD armors, so it's not a sample so much as it is fit for playing around with once you have some experience.

The green armor takes a ton of expansions to be legal in the game.

Even if you have all the expansions, it takes a pretty deep knowledge of the game to pursue making it.

That's a lot of barriers to actually getting any use out of it.

If you're really impatient, find a spare Rawhide set online. It's a pretty average complexity of kit that actually represents stuff you'd actually play with.
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mad tulip
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You said that you dont want to paint them for now. In order to leave the option to paint them later you should remove all the mold lines toroughly (i use a blunt knife for flat areas and a scalpel for grooves where you cant use the neighboring material as a support while scratching (i.e. in between fingers)) after cutting out each part and BEFORE you assemble things. You will not be able to scratch around the parts where the mold lines are once they are assembled. If you should later on decide to paint them and use "ink" and "drybrush" (the painting technique creating the most depth effect/definition of shape for the least required painting experience and accuracy with a brush) the mold lines will be perfectly highlighted (grooves filled by the dark ink and comb hit by the lighter drybrush color).

Also probably related to painting: "green stuff" or similar (cheaper and as good, also available in light gray) epoxy putty to fill the gaps where you glued things together. Results in a nicer shape, but would need to be at least basecoated afterwards to achieve a single colored miniature. Dont basecoat with a spray can without wathching some video about it. Its very easy to apply way to much paint in the first try which will make the models looks melted (all gaps filled with paint).

toilet paper at hand to soak spilled glue fast. Dont spill the glue on the model! It works by dissolving the plastic to jelly and then driing while the plastic gets back to solid state - it ruins surfaces.

maybe isopropanol 70% to clean the parts. its a grease solvent and sometimes there is a residue of the stuff that is used to ease separation between part and mold during production. It doesnt solve the pastic (at least not the parts i had so far - maybe test on some part of the frame of the sprues). If you paint later on it can also be used to remove standard acrylic colors (vallejo, games workshop things). It doesnt solve varnish which can come in really handy to preserve intermediate painting steps and to be able to scroll back to them. Getting into to many painting related stuff...
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I have a cheap "starter" modelling kit which contains cutters, a pen knife, files, tweezers and sanding sticks which I bought for some Gunpla. The only thing is they are all cheap and I'm debating on upgrading at the very least the knife and cutters. Otherwise I'm sorted thanks in part to Gundam.
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BG.EXE
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madtulip wrote:
Many paint tips


Thank you for these! I will clean all the molding lines as I assemble them because I do have some painting plans, I just don't currently trust myself to paint these (I'm going to start painting this year with Mansions of Madness). I'm planning to commission someone to do the Dragon and Phoenix but that's the extent of my "official" plans so far. I may do the heroes myself once I have some experience with less expensive games.

Can I use Green Stuff later (i.e. when I paint it, or when my commissioned painter paints it) or is that best to do immediately?
 
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Colby Brown
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Modeling newbie here, what's the difference between plastic glue and plastic cement? I'm planning on ordering my supplies this week to make sure they get here before my copy.
 
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Nick Wirtz
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plastic glue is basically superglue, and a brittle but multipurpose adhesive.

plastic cement is essentially a mild solvent that chemically welds the pieces together.

I recommend only the latter, preferably with a needle applicator. It's much stronger, but also has more working time so is easier to use, and it won't adhere to skin, since it's not an adhesive.

Superglue is good for gluing materials that aren't HIPS plastic, or gluing HIPS plastic to other materials. Most board game minis are PVC plastic, which plastic cement won't do anything to, for instance, so it's worth knowing your plastics.

On greenstuff, it's easy to add after the fact. However, unless you're modifying models, you shouldn't need it on KD minis, especially if using plastic cement, since it will tend to smooth out any seams.
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Along with what everyone else says, I reccommend lots of pencils and erasers. This will be needed when playing, not so much in the prep stages.
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Alessio Massuoli
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Gath21 wrote:
Along with what everyone else says, I reccommend lots of pencils and erasers. This will be needed when playing, not so much in the prep stages.

I actually leave the values untouched and add a tick below it for every damage/use. If I recover a point or two, I add a tick to the above score. When ticks below reach ticks + total above, only then I erase everything, because the value is now zero. If something like fresh acanthus happens, I just write the new value without ticks.

You get used to this quickly and it's the fastest method to keep track of everything imho
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Nick Wirtz
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I do the same, but write the numbers in the space outside the box. With most armor sets, you have one value, or one for the head and one other, and I find it easier to tick up in the boxes.

But yeah, I'd agree that pencils and a couple erasers are nice to have on hand.
 
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André Silveira
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spiralingcadaver wrote:
I really disagree with the GK recommendation:

The green armor is some of the most finnicky of all the KD armors, so it's not a sample so much as it is fit for playing around with once you have some experience.

The green armor takes a ton of expansions to be legal in the game.

Even if you have all the expansions, it takes a pretty deep knowledge of the game to pursue making it.

That's a lot of barriers to actually getting any use out of it.

If you're really impatient, find a spare Rawhide set online. It's a pretty average complexity of kit that actually represents stuff you'd actually play with.


The advice was only for mini training. Content wise I know it's useless.
 
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Nick Wirtz
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But, I still don't understand why you'd recommend one of the tougher kits to practice on.
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spiralingcadaver wrote:
I really disagree with the GK recommendation:

The green armor is some of the most finnicky of all the KD armors, so it's not a sample so much as it is fit for playing around with once you have some experience.

The green armor takes a ton of expansions to be legal in the game.

Even if you have all the expansions, it takes a pretty deep knowledge of the game to pursue making it.

That's a lot of barriers to actually getting any use out of it.

If you're really impatient, find a spare Rawhide set online. It's a pretty average complexity of kit that actually represents stuff you'd actually play with.

Agreed, avoid the GK set it's pretty complex. However I'd recommend getting a spare Phoenix or White Lion kit because they're cheaper due to there being more of them out there and the fact that the armor sets are not used in high quantity in game (where as Rawhide is a premium armor kit set and is starting to command the prices that it deserves).

laucion wrote:
The advice was only for mini training. Content wise I know it's useless.

The Green Knight expansion isn't useless even if you're not that experienced with the game.

For example: If you play with the Dung Beetle Knight expansion you can make use of the Helmet without any other expansion parts required. The Helmet also works really well with the Rolling Armor set.

Or with just The Gorm, Flower Knight and Dung Beetle Knight you can build the Helmet, Boots, Sword and Shield*. Rolling Armor will allow you to use the Helmet and Boots together with a full armor set no problem and the Shield is both simple to understand how to make and very powerful/fun.

It's my first recommendation for people trying to learn how to build the Green Armor set. Learn to Build the Shield and Helmet. Then learn how to build the Sword + Shield.

Here: I even updated the Green Knight expansion entry on BGG so people can see what expansions are needed to build individual parts.

Kingdom Death: Monster – Green Knight Armor Expansion

*If you add just the Spidicules Innovation in you can even build the waist piece with the other three expansions added in.
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Drew Olds
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If all you want is some build practice before the game box shows up, just grab yourself a white box or two.

Of, if you'd rather practice on something a little cheaper, pick up some plastic kits from Malifaux (the assembly is very similar).
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Earlier this year I bought a new set of clippers from Amazon, "Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter" - under $10 and clips closer than the side cuts I was previously using.

As others mentioned, I have files but don't use them on plastic very often.

I recently upgraded my desk lamp, also via Amazon: "LAMPAT Dimmable LED Desk Lamp, Black" for under $25.

And archive this under "luxury items" but I've enjoyed the Citadel Mouldline Remover that I picked up this spring.

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Dave Baxter
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If someone could drop some Amazon links in an all-in-one post for recommended stuff to get to get started on just assembly to play the game that would be great! Knives, glue, desklamps...what else? Total noob here with shaky middle-aged hands, not looking to get into pinning...
 
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