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Subject: First time dealing with cement/sprues/etc - advice / criticism rss

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Joao Mendonca
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Hello,

This is my first time glueing and messing up with sprues ( I did some glueing in metal minis but was 20 years ago ). So I want some advice, ask some questions:

First here are the starting survivors and lion:

https://imgur.com/gallery/hV72t?s=wa

1) I’m using Tanya extra thin cement, I noticed/knew that it would melt plastic and give me a nicer finish. When the plastic doesn’t melt in some gaps you can see, do I put more tamya? Or I just leave it like it is ? (I choose the 2nd )

2) I ussually test dry fitting the piece and then put a small drop of tamya to have some glueing on the piece and then apply on the edges, do I apply all around the edges ? Or do I just apply at some points?

3) overall did I do an ok job? Or not?
 
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Jhonyb wrote:
Hello,

This is my first time glueing and messing up with sprues ( I did some glueing in metal minis but was 20 years ago ). So I want some advice, ask some questions:

First here are the starting survivors and lion:

https://imgur.com/gallery/hV72t?s=wa

1) I’m using Tanya extra thin cement, I noticed/knew that it would melt plastic and give me a nicer finish. When the plastic doesn’t melt in some gaps you can see, do I put more tamya? Or I just leave it like it is ? (I choose the 2nd )

2) I ussually test dry fitting the piece and then put a small drop of tamya to have some glueing on the piece and then apply on the edges, do I apply all around the edges ? Or do I just apply at some points?

3) overall did I do an ok job? Or not?


1) you can use a bit of cement to fill gaps, but it will also dissolve the plastic on the surface roughening it up, so experienced modellers will do that with putty and lots of sanding to create a smooth filled gap finish. very good that you are dry-fitting, that has a bigger impact on fit and gap size than anything else
2) apply thin layer of cement to the whole surface that will stick together for a strong joint but glue flowing out of the joint
3) I think you did well, your gaps are small, your figures have the proper shapes, all is fine
 
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Joao Mendonca
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Hyos wrote:
Jhonyb wrote:
Hello,

This is my first time glueing and messing up with sprues ( I did some glueing in metal minis but was 20 years ago ). So I want some advice, ask some questions:

First here are the starting survivors and lion:

https://imgur.com/gallery/hV72t?s=wa

1) I’m using Tanya extra thin cement, I noticed/knew that it would melt plastic and give me a nicer finish. When the plastic doesn’t melt in some gaps you can see, do I put more tamya? Or I just leave it like it is ? (I choose the 2nd )

2) I ussually test dry fitting the piece and then put a small drop of tamya to have some glueing on the piece and then apply on the edges, do I apply all around the edges ? Or do I just apply at some points?

3) overall did I do an ok job? Or not?


1) you can use a bit of cement to fill gaps, but it will also dissolve the plastic on the surface roughening it up, so experienced modellers will do that with putty and lots of sanding to create a smooth filled gap finish. very good that you are dry-fitting, that has a bigger impact on fit and gap size than anything else
2) apply thin layer of cement to the whole surface that will stick together for a strong joint but glue flowing out of the joint
3) I think you did well, your gaps are small, your figures have the proper shapes, all is fine


I have Tamya Putty for the gaps, any suggestion how to apply it? I never used it... should I use a toothpick?
Any tutorial out there?
 
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I use green stuff and it does its job perfectly. You can search for tutorial on green stuff, it should give you an idea.
 
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mad tulip
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I use dentist tools. Those are probably the best for the job but probably expensive. Ive got mine as a present from a dentist student. They are stainless steel, so you can even xacto knife super glue off them without damaging them. super usefull for minis in general.:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0604/3485/files/dentist.pn...

http://d2ydh70d4b5xgv.cloudfront.net/images/9/f/dg16-explore...

and this

apoxy scullpt.:

https://www.amazon.de/Apoxie-Sculpt-Natural-Hellgrau-Kompakt...

Is like "green stuff" but just more, cheaper and of better quality (imo). It has the consistence of childrens putty.

You just put more than you need on the model with the intention to fill all along one crack and dont care that much about putting to much next to it. In the next step (asap) you remove all residues not in the crack first with metal tools and afterwards with toilet paper. Whats left in the crack needs to dry for 24h.

You can repeat that a 2nd time if you wish, because this will not completly fill the crack. Its more the quick and dirty technique that solves 90% of the cracks okish. Your putty will still form a less deep crack/valley. This will still show trough paint. (paint, if done right, will not fill any cracks). In order to completly fill the crack you will need to put too much putty in the first place, let it dry for 24h and then sandpaper it down again to hight of the model. This is more difficult (as you cant just scrap it off the way you did above) and more efford than just filling the part of the crack that you can not get out again easily. I would only recommend doing this on easy to reach, easy to sand, flat areas that stand out like maybe the lions back/hip/tail only - this ofc depends on your willingness to spend time on the result.

The first step is a good quick and dirty thing which imo improoves the result much more than it consumes time - i do that nearly always, exspecially on all cracks that are totally open to i.e. the inside of the lions belly instead of just beeing a 1mm deep crack.
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Drake Coker
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Almost anything will work for applying putty. A toothpick would work for small applications, though something a little larger is nice (like dental tools).

I borrowed a pointed nail file from my mom 50 years ago for this purpose and still use it to this day. I don't think she's getting it back now.
 
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With Vallejo Plastic Putty, I just apply it with a brush. Water it down a little, and fill in the gap. You may need to repeat this; when the water evaporates, not enough putty may have been applied.

But, as everyone's been saying, whatever works! If you make a mistake, you can always sand it down, at least Vallejo Plastic Putty.
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Sam and Max wrote:
With Vallejo Plastic Putty, I just apply it with a brush. Water it down a little, and fill in the gap. You may need to repeat this; when the water evaporates, not enough putty may have been applied.

But, as everyone's been saying, whatever works! If you make a mistake, you can always sand it down, at least Vallejo Plastic Putty.


I use a either Vallejo Plastic Putty or Vallejo Matt Varnish depending on how big the crack is. Will take a few layers to fill completely but it dries quickly; if you're working on several models at once you can kind of work them in a loop.

With the Varnish, you will want to work the edges with a damp brush to avoid a ridge/ring where the varnish stops.

Note: I'm not looking for "perfection" ... just want to hide the worst of the worst.
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Geoff ...
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madtulip wrote:

apoxy scullpt.:

https://www.amazon.de/Apoxie-Sculpt-Natural-Hellgrau-Kompakt...

Is like "green stuff" but just more, cheaper and of better quality (imo). It has the consistence of childrens putty.

I noticed this comes in a variety of colours. Could I get away with using this stuff without painting over, and if so, which colour best matches the KDM plastics (silver, white, etc.)?

Thanks.

edit: iPad editing ugh...
 
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fwiw, Milliput comes in different colors : https://www.milliput.com/products.html

Vallejo Plastic Putty is a bright white.
 
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I am still waiting for mine to show up so not sure of exact color match but I think that Tamiya Basic Type Putty is grey and a pretty close match.
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Joao Mendonca
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oduh wrote:
I am still waiting for mine to show up so not sure of exact color match but I think that Tamiya Basic Type Putty is grey and a pretty close match.


I use that one and i can confirm it's equal to KDM plastic
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