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Subject: Zenithal Highlighting with spray cans + Wash\shade rss

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Joao Mendonca
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Hello painters!

I’m a total noob in painting!
I have a couple of questions for anyone who cares to answer. thanks in advance!

I have 6/7 spray cans and multiple army painter shade/wash ( quickshade dark, blue, purple, green, red tones/washes)

1) I’ve just painted Gloomhaven starter minis with spray can and zenithal highlighted with grey and white. Can I now shade them? With army painter quick shade dark tone? Will that be an option to highlight the minis? Will I ruin the highlights? Should I dip in the quickshade can or paint with brush?

2) I also primed KDM starter survivors with black and now I wanted to zenithal highlight with white on the lantern zone but I see everyone airbrushing and I only have spray cans. What distance should I use on the minis to get the best result? Anyone has a zenithal spray can highlight, I only see with airbrush.

3) I have tamya Putty how to use it on the gaps of my KDM minis? Apply with toothpick and pass a q-tip? I find the result quite underwhelming so I must be doing something wrong! Also should I sand it after? Or I just pass the q-tip? Wet? Or not?

Thanks for the answers

Ps: the spell weaver / brute turned out okish, the others not really lol





Lion and a survivor:


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Chip Crawford
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You want the dip/quickshade to be your last step after painting your base colors.
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BG.EXE
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Zenithal with spray cans doesn’t work that well. It can work okay on really large models, but it still won’t look like an airbrushed Zenithal. The problem is spray cans put out way too much paint to use it on a small, focused area, but in big areas their spray isn’t consistent enough. You get specks. Which is fine for priming because you’re covering the whole thing (the inconsistencies get covered).

I’ve considered trying Zenithal with alternate spray caps like graffiti artists use, but at that point I might as well cut the crap and get an airbrush.

You can get the same level of detail without an airbrush or Zenithal highlights, you just have to get really good with your layering and blending, and think a LOT more about your colors.
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Greg
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I had been only spray priming with grey for awhile, but recently started priming models black and then spraying white from above. I use spray cans and it has worked fine. That said, I still have to highlight with lighter and lighter layers, but it seems easier now. Even if it's a little helpful, it doesn't take hardly any time at all to do this priming process.
 
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John Gallant
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I zenithal with spray cans exclusively with good results. If you want some light source highlights, just do zenithal like normal and then spritz a bit of white onto the mini from the opposite side of the lanterns, hitting parts of the mini you would not normally hit with the white from above.

If you are then wanting to colour the mini, you can either do very thin basecoats to let the zenithal show through (like glazes: very watered down paint) or do the wash technique, realizing that washes typically flow more and have less surface tension than regular paint.

For the Army painter dips, I haven't used them but I think that stuff goes on pretty thick which may destroy your zenithal. I'd go for brush application of your darker colours to the recesses for your shadows.
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Greg
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I have the Army Painter shades that came in one of their big paint sets. They are in the little bottles, so I brush them on. I do this process before highlights, as it darkens areas that I will leave darker for shading purposes and allows me to highlight over it in areas in want lighter.
 
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César Mendes
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Basically you want to do what is being done here:



In this video she doesn't use the Quick Shade in primed minis but the results are not probably not far away. Haven't tried it but probably won't ruin the zenithal.
 
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Yan Bertrand
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Oi Joao! Long time no read.

Jhonyb wrote:

1) I’ve just painted Gloomhaven starter minis with spray can and zenithal highlighted with grey and white. Can I now shade them? With army painter quick shade dark tone? Will that be an option to highlight the minis? Will I ruin the highlights? Should I dip in the quickshade can or paint with brush?

You can shade them if you are not planning to apply (base) colors. Please note that any bright color (such as white) will be dulled out by the shade, and it is typical to re-apply the base color selectively (=by brush) after using a shade.
Highlighting doesn't use shades, not does it use sprays, typically. I'd expect to have to brush highlights on.
Note: "typically" is used here because this is an art, and we all take different paths in it. There's no "wrong" path - just some that work better for some of us.

Jhonyb wrote:

2) I also primed KDM starter survivors with black and now I wanted to zenithal highlight with white on the lantern zone but I see everyone airbrushing and I only have spray cans. What distance should I use on the minis to get the best result? Anyone has a zenithal spray can highlight, I only see with airbrush.

Are we saying you want the ONLY light source to be the lamp, or to have BOTH zenital + lamp as light sources?
- If "ONLY" then yes, you can spray "from the lampand you'll partially do what is needed. (There is light emited towards sirface you won't hit by sprayingfrom a distance. You'll have to brush these on with the lighter color.)
- If both then I'd probably choose to spray zenital and apply the rest with a brush. But it could work with a combination of both.

The distance to use is ALWAYS the one recommended by the manufacturer. (Mine say 25 cm - depends on the brand and maybe color, so check the cans.) Too far = paint will dry a bit and land as "flakes" on the mini. Too close = lots of paint will gather in few places & hide away details on the mini.
Again, that "always" from me may (and probably will) be contradicted by someone else. :-) Though I will be (happily) surprised on that one.

Jhonyb wrote:

3) I have tamya Putty how to use it on the gaps of my KDM minis? Apply with toothpick and pass a q-tip? I find the result quite underwhelming so I must be doing something wrong! Also should I sand it after? Or I just pass the q-tip? Wet? Or not?

I'm not sure about that one, but if it's anything like green stuff, it's recommended you use spit on the tools used to smooth out the surface. Not sure I understood your question, though, so I'll let better experts take this one.

Merry painting!
 
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Randy Newnham
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Here's a great tutorial on using zenithal priming as the start of "sketch-style" painting. I'm doing my next batch like this.

https://www.loswarmachine.com/losgeneral/2017/11/18/hobby-ti...
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Luke
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coffeeswiller wrote:
Here's a great tutorial on using zenithal priming as the start of "sketch-style" painting. I'm doing my next batch like this.

https://www.loswarmachine.com/losgeneral/2017/11/18/hobby-ti...


well, this is great. please show us your results
 
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Joao Mendonca
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Hello Yan,

had i known you were an artist and i would have geekmailed you directly eheheh hope you enjoying your games
Quote:

Are we saying you want the ONLY light source to be the lamp, or to have BOTH zenital + lamp as light sources?
- If "ONLY" then yes, you can spray "from the lampand you'll partially do what is needed. (There is light emited towards sirface you won't hit by sprayingfrom a distance. You'll have to brush these on with the lighter color.)
- If both then I'd probably choose to spray zenital and apply the rest with a brush. But it could work with a combination of both.

The distance to use is ALWAYS the one recommended by the manufacturer. (Mine say 25 cm - depends on the brand and maybe color, so check the cans.) Too far = paint will dry a bit and land as "flakes" on the mini. Too close = lots of paint will gather in few places & hide away details on the mini.
Again, that "always" from me may (and probably will) be contradicted by someone else. :-) Though I will be (happily) surprised on that one.


What i really wanted was something like this:



I primed them black and now i wanted to spray white on the lantern direction, but i only have spray cans and my fear is that it would be too much lol.

Quote:
I'm not sure about that one, but if it's anything like green stuff, it's recommended you use spit on the tools used to smooth out the surface. Not sure I understood your question, though, so I'll let better experts take this one.


It is similar to green stuff, but i'm having some trouble applying it and covering the marks. I really wanted someone's advice that had used it and how should i use it to cover the "glue lines - where the model fits" and the gaps.

Quote:
Merry painting!


Likewise

To all the others, thank you
 
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Nathan Stiles
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Jhonyb wrote:
What i really wanted was something like this:



I primed them black and now i wanted to spray white on the lantern direction, but i only have spray cans and my fear is that it would be too much lol.


This is not zenithal lighting-- zenith means from above, or from the highest point. This is OSL, or Object Source Lighting. You'd want an air brush to prime like this, a rattle can will over spray. Well, I guess that depends on how picky you are about the end result :-)
 
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