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Firefly: The Game» Forums » Variants

Subject: Building High Quality Custom Ship Cards at Home--a pictorial tutorial rss

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Darin Bolyard
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In your world, I have another name. You must learn to know me by it. That was the very reason why you were brought to Narnia, that by knowing me here for a little, you may know me better there.
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Step 1: Get your ship card printed on thin white linen stock resumé paper. I do this at Office Depot for just under $1 total cost (including tax) per laser-color sheet. I lay out my prints in Microsoft Publisher so that I get the ship card at the precise size I want in addition to laying out one card front and back on the same sheet to maximize the value of that printed sheet (I won't be going through how to build a game card in this thread...such as a custom ship's drive core card)

Step 2: Find a scrap game board with enough unblemished/un-creased surface area to build your ship card with:
Cut the board at its folds and work only with the section you need for your ship card.

Lay out your roughly cut out ship card print atop the board section to ensure it will accommodate your print.


Step 3: Lay your ship card print face down on a large piece of paper and apply a generous amount of Elmer's stick glue. Cover it entirely, but avoid clumps. You don't want any of the glue to touch the front of the print, so hold it firmly in place as you do this:


Step 4: Lay and firmly press the print onto the selected piece of game board. Avoid trapping air (no biggie), and use something like a rolling pin or long glass bottle to firmly roll and press the print onto the game board:


Step 5: Use a straight edge and rotary cutter to cut along the main edges cleanly. I have a small roll of light sticky tack affixed beneath my ruler to ensure it doesn't shift around when I'm using my rotary cutter along its edge:


Step 6: Use both the rotary cutter and a craft knife to carefully finish cutting the top inset edge of the ship card. I mark a point along the top where I will stop the rotary cutter in order to ensure I do not cut into the ship card, and then carefully finish cutting with the craft knife:


The finished product:

Next to the official Serenity ship card:

All together and ready to play with:


Time to build once printed: @12 minutes
Total cost: @$1.00
Resources Needed:
-a scrap game board (I pilfer mine from throw-away board games I either thrift for under $1 or get for free when my fellow teachers clean out their old games)
-thin linen stock resumé paper (my print source has this)
-print source (mine happens to be Office Depot)
-Elmer's glue
-cutting surface
-craft knife
-rotary cutter
-metal straight edge (I use a metal ruler)
-something to ensure your straight edge does not shift when cutting (I use light, firm sticky tack)
-something to roll/press your print onto the game board piece (I use a rolling pin)
-a little bit of time

Actual ship card displayed in this tutorial credit to BGG user:
George Krubski
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It can be found in its current final edit here:Re: Talking about ships, ships, and then more ships...
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Darin Bolyard
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(Reserved for listing any questions and answers that may arise in this thread for quick reference)
 
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Stuart Presley
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Nice!

In case you've run out of spare game boards, this might be useful. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3NWOY/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I...

-Stu
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Bart Rachemoss
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The spirit of BGG as expressed by Esgaldil: "We lose nothing by trying to be helpful"
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Spoiler (click to reveal)
dbolyard wrote:
Step 2: Find a scrap game board with enough unblemished/un-creased surface area to build your ship card with:
Cut the board at its folds and work only with the section you need for your ship card.

Does not compute. This is supposed to be a family-friendly site. Shouldn't there be warnings or spoilers before displaying such wanton destruction? I still cringe at that photo.

Great guide! Thanks!
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George Krubski
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Nice stuff, Darin!

I'm curious how many custom ships you have total.
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Darin Bolyard
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These are the custom ship cards that I've added to my game thus far:

-Aces & Eights (by GWEK)
-White Lightning (by GWEK)
-Huntingdon't Bolt (by GWEK)
-Cantankerous (by GWEK)
-ASREV (by UpStarter)
-Millennium Falcon (by phideaux1)
-Slave 1 (by phideaux1)

I have matching minis for all but the Cantankerous, and have played with all but the Huntingdon's Bolt and Cantankerous.

I have built each of these cards at least 2-3 times however, as I have 3 other friends who own Firefly: The Game. I built the original White Lightning 4 times when you (GWEK) were debating on a light or dark backdrop, and allowed each of them to choose the one they wanted. Now that you've updated both the A&E and WL, I've got those prints ready to build again. Though they're not a priority since I already enjoy playing with the originals.

Another ship card I have been eager to build is the Ghost from Star Wars: Rebels, presented by the creative talent of BGG user "Greatfrito" here:Re: Have the ship need help with the cards
However, I am reluctant to build this↑ particular version due to cost-balancing issues (in my mind), since we ALWAYS pay for ships during setup. I already have a miniature for both the Ghost and the accompanying Phantom shuttle (Micro Machines). And the Ghost's Phantom shuttle ship upgrade brings another uncertain factor to the table...
Recently:Trying to bring shuttles into Firefly
Older:Back and Forth on Shuttle Ideas

Anyway, I should take my thoughts on the Ghost over to the appropriate thread, and perhaps Greatfrito will be open to discussion about it.

I appreciate all the contributions made by many in this community. What a great game community!
 
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Chris Christopher
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About Ghost you are right.

The actual price with revised cost and a basic Radion Core Range 5 (Hyper Drive 1.00) is actually 9600$.
The Ship's template is not right about list price (7400$).

So, it is 100$ above Jetwash.
My suggestion is to pay 1000$ to get Phantom Shuttle.
Base Ghost would be same cost as SS Walden: 8600$.

Working with a Range 6 Drive Core add another 1000$ to base cost.
This is too much above other ships.

Another option would be to pay 1000$ and choose between a Range 6 Drive Core (Hyper Drive 0.75) or Phantom Shuttle.

In fact, based on Star Wars RPG, Hyper Drive number should be:
3.00 for Range 4,
2.00 for Range 5,
1.00 for Range 6,
0.75 for Range 7,
0.50 for Range 8.

GHOST Cost from card = $7400
Crew: 6 * 200 = $1200
Cargo: 12 * 300 = $3600
Passenger: 0 * 100 = $0
Stash: 0 * 400 = $0
Fuel Stash(2): 0 * 200 = $0
Upgrade slots: 4 * 500 = $2000
Burn Range: 5, 1 * 600 = $600
Stealth Package = $600
Laser Cannons: = $600
Shuttle VCX Phantom: = $1000

1200 + 3600 + 0 + 0 + 0 + 2000 + 600 + 600 + 600 = $8600
With Shuttle VCX = $9600
 
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Darin Bolyard
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Chris, I'd like to continue discussion on the Ghost. Do you mind copying your post over to this thread: Have the ship need help with the cards or start a new one? Your post is in reference to the Ghost ship card presented in this↑ thread, and so it will make sense to reference it in an case. I don't think people are going to come here to examine/discuss specs for a specific ship. And this is a discussion I would love to see get going.
 
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Chris Christopher
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Done.
 
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Dave Noonan
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dbolyard wrote:
I lay out my prints in Microsoft Publisher...


Thank you sooo much. I've been wanting to do this but not much crafting experience.

Does anyone have suggestions for alternative software?

I'm on a Mac and $110 seems a bit steep for hobby software. I linked AlternativeTo.net in case anyone doesn't know about it but I'm asking here in case anyone has experience with it and can help me avoid my really, really frustrating GIMP experience this morning.

Thanks


PS. I actually like GIMP but somehow the selection mode got changed from replace to subtract and wow was it frustrating, and time consuming, trying to figure that out.
 
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Darin Bolyard
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I used to use a publisher-like program offered through Open Office for free, but don't recall the name or if it is still offered through Open Office (now called Apache Open Office). But the one that came up the most through multiple web searches was Lucidpress. Over and over again, it sounds like one of the best out there. Some reviewers prefer it over MS Publisher, and it's free.

Correction: Turns out it was Libre Office Draw that I used until I acquired MS Office suite last year. It actually works quite well. Check it out here if you're interested: www.libreoffice.org It is free and open source.
 
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Mattias Elfström
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Awfki wrote:
dbolyard wrote:
I lay out my prints in Microsoft Publisher...


Thank you sooo much. I've been wanting to do this but not much crafting experience.

Does anyone have suggestions for alternative software?

I'm on a Mac and $110 seems a bit steep for hobby software. I linked AlternativeTo.net in case anyone doesn't know about it but I'm asking here in case anyone has experience with it and can help me avoid my really, really frustrating GIMP experience this morning.

Thanks


PS. I actually like GIMP but somehow the selection mode got changed from replace to subtract and wow was it frustrating, and time consuming, trying to figure that out.

Try using Pages. I think it is free for Mac users and much better than any ms application.
 
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sidley helphrey
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Does anyone have the size dimensions for the ship cards?
I have files for the ones I want to print, but want to make sure they are the same size as the ones in the box.
thanx
 
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Joe Kepler
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squidtrek wrote:
Does anyone have the size dimensions for the ship cards?
I have files for the ones I want to print, but want to make sure they are the same size as the ones in the box.
thanx


5 inches high, 10 inches long.



Daryn,

Why Resume paper? Is this what you have found to be the best? The most like the ship card? The best to hold the ink? What's the reason for the choice of paper?
 
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Darin Bolyard
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But God shows his love for us in that while we were still sinners, Christ died for us.
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In your world, I have another name. You must learn to know me by it. That was the very reason why you were brought to Narnia, that by knowing me here for a little, you may know me better there.
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@ Joe: It's the only thing I've found with a linen finish on it that most closely matches the linen finish on the official ship cards. I do also prefer the thinner stock as it does not increase thickness and is much more flexible. The flexibility is important since it adheres to the cardboard far better than thick, rigid cardstock does, and is just easier to work with. As for holding ink, I'm not sure it does any better than other stock. Though I get mine laser printed. It holds the color well enough. Actual ink may be a different story.
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