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Subject: F'd up my paint job rss

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Denmark
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Being the impatient type I wanted to do a simple monochrome paintjob of the core game + Sunstalker exp and get to playing faster.

My process: army painter white primer + darktone Quickshade and a some dry brushing on some of the larger figures.

First mistake: Used Quickshade way to nonchalantly, smearing the mini's without cleaning the bases properly before painting the bases.
I had a gut feeling I was rushing this part, but ignored it in my eager to be finished with the paintjob.

Second mistake: Using varnish spray on Quickshade(also varnish) maybe was a bad idea? Besides that, I think I either was to close with the can when I sprayed the mini's with the matte varnish or the mini's weren't quite dry enough from the Quickshade(or both).

Result: Big cracks on the lion,sunstalker and watcher + pretty bad looking bases on most of the mini's, aka a bumpy and flossy look from uncleaned Quickshade.

Lesson learnt? Don't be a moron!!!, do you're research and listen to you're gut feeling when starting an important paintjob.


So now I have 3 choices:

1. Live with the result. Even though it's bad, for me at least it's still a little better than unpainted mini's.

2. Try and clean and redo the bases + completely redo the lion,sunstalker and watcher.

3. Redo everything.

If taking one of the redo routes, I have heard that rubbing alcohol is a good cheap way to strip paint without harming the mini's? But will it also take care of the two layers of varnish? Or is there a better way to go about it?

Any help to this bloody moron would be appreciated.












 
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Freelance Police
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Super Clean (aka. Purple Power) from Walmart's auto section is stronger than Simple Green, but wear gloves (or use disposable chopsticks!) when using.

Is the darktone Quickshade the varnish or eye dropper?
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Mark Watson
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White spirit / rubbing alcohol should cut through the varnish and thin the paint, though you might need to repeat the process a couple of times.

Is it at the point it needs to be completely stripped? You could probably use white sand or small pebbles (like the kind they sell for fishtanks) on the base to hide the bad paintjob, and it'd probably work well with a monochrome theme. Assuming the miniature isn't too badly botched to be repairable with strategic repainting it'd probably save some time and effort.
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Brad Kim
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If you're going with striping the paints off, make sure to dip them and not rinse them with water when you're about to brush.
Washing them with water before brushing makes them to stick again to miniature.

If the base is the only thing that looks bad, you could paint the base grey or black.

Double varnish might have dulled the details on the figures but if you're done with painting, you might be okay with that.
I've seen other people using quickshade dip and using mat varnish after to remove the shine.
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G G
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Sam and Max wrote:
Super Clean (aka. Purple Power) from Walmart's auto section is stronger than Simple Green, but wear gloves (or use disposable chopsticks!) when using.


Castrol Super Clean / Purple Power is the gold standard of plastic-safe hobby paint strippers.

Accept no substitutes!

(otherwise, you are literally just wasting your time and money)
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John Middleton
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The best by far is Detol from Britain. It's a first aid antiseptic.

You can order it on Amazon stateside.


https://www.amazon.com/Dettol-Topical-Antiseptic-Liquid-FL-O...



Regardless of what you use, any mini that has an enamel, lacquer, or varnish coating needs to soaked and then wiped off with a paper towel BEFORE you start scrubbing on them. The slimy enamel/varnish layer will gel with water and turn into a mess.


Also, wear some disposable gloves when you do the first bit, because the old enamel/varnish will hurt your skin eventually.


Quickshade is the varnish shade in a can stuff. QuickTone is the eye dropper wash stuff.
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Denmark
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Thanks a lot for the suggestions Dettol I can get in Denmark, so it could be worth a try.
The pebble idea could also be an option.
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Tommi
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Not the answer you want but I actually think there's not much you can do at the paintjobs at that point. Quickshade is very strong material, it has a lot of varnish in it. Then to top it off you added another coat of varnish, though if sprayed isn't thick or very durable.
But I think that it's pretty much impossible to strip them of paint at that point, mostly because of the quickshade. (it's very, very durable stuff once fully dry).

Maybe just clean and redo the bases to give them more of a finished look.
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Denmark
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Tomyrgon wrote:
Not the answer you want but I actually think there's not much you can do at the paintjobs at that point. Quickshade is very strong material, it has a lot of varnish in it. Then to top it off you added another coat of varnish, though if sprayed isn't thick or very durable.
But I think that it's pretty much impossible to strip them of paint at that point, mostly because of the quickshade. (it's very, very durable stuff once fully dry).

Maybe just clean and redo the bases to give them more of a finished look.


Yeah you're properly right. How the bell I didn't realize that the quickshade was a varnish and should be handled with care at the time is beyond me.
Oh wait I know why, I'm a Moronshake
 
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John Middleton
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Tullis wrote:
Thanks a lot for the suggestions Dettol I can get in Denmark, so it could be worth a try.
The pebble idea could also be an option.



I hadn't even noticed you were in Denmark.....

It is definitely easier to get than any US cleaners then.


Dettol is what all the classic mini collectors use to strip their valuable old metal and plastic minis from historical to old GW/Citadel stuff. You'll like it.
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John Middleton
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Tomyrgon wrote:
Not the answer you want but I actually think there's not much you can do at the paintjobs at that point. Quickshade is very strong material, it has a lot of varnish in it. Then to top it off you added another coat of varnish, though if sprayed isn't thick or very durable.
But I think that it's pretty much impossible to strip them of paint at that point, mostly because of the quickshade. (it's very, very durable stuff once fully dry).

Maybe just clean and redo the bases to give them more of a finished look.



Dettol will pull varnish off easily after a overnight soak.

I've pulled marine spar varnish off old microscale tanks.
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Denmark
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I would assume that re-priming the varnished mini's is a terrible idea?
 
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John Middleton
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Any time there are multiple layers of anything on a mini, repriming is generally bad.


Primers are designed to stick to bare surfaces and seal them while providing a toothy surface for later paint to adhere to. Primer and acrylic paint will have a tough time adhering to varnish and if the surface is cracked or pitted, all that will show through the primer.


The sealing bit isn't as important as it used to be. Older minis with lead in them or really old 60% lead minis need a full seal before painting, since contact with air will actually cause oxidation of the lead and it will breakdown into a powder underneath the paint. It's pretty crazy if you've seen it!

That obviously isn't an issue with new models and plastics.


Multiple build ups of layers will also obscure detail on a mini.
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Denmark
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Thanks again, will properly try the Dettol.
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Tullis wrote:
I would assume that re-priming the varnished mini's is a terrible idea?


Strip first. Then, unless you're priming a batch of miniatures (I've done 50+ at a time for terrain!), you can always use brush-on primer wherever you need it. I prefer brush-on primer because I can control where the primer goes on the miniature (I use brown and black Stynylrez primers), as well as the thickness. Dunno if you can find it locally, but if you see Stynylrez black and brown primers, buy it! The primer is designed for airbrushes and can be brushed-on. The primer is thin but has good coverage. I often don't need more than one coat, and can see the details just fine. It can cost $7 USD for 2 oz. bottle, but that's a better price than the typical $3.50 USD for a 1/2 bottle of hobby paint.
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Thope Zicas
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I use "Krud Kleaner" from Menard's It removes acrylic brilliantly. Soak then hit it with a soft toothbrush.
 
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