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Subject: Green stuff gap filling rss

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1) Am I doing correctly?
2) How can I avoid the rough-like aspect becoming of green stuff's surface?
3) What about those light lines on the white lion's back and mane? looks like green stuff would only make the surface dirty and won't cover that line (especially on its mane)

Thanks


 
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Freelance Police
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I only use GS when Vallejo Plastic Putty doesn't work. I use VPP pretty much all the time on plastics, and GS on wider metal gaps.

As for GS, you could also make a wash (take a bead of GS, make a depression in it, and add water), but I haven't had much luck with it, since the wash shrinks (ie. the water evaporates) and you may have to repeat this several times (ie. yuck). IIRC, You should also be smoothing down GS with your fingers, dipped in water or Vaseline, but the modelers with GS experience can give a better answer, which I'd like to hear as well.

http://www.bananaking.net/cento/workshop/conv_green.htm
 
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nuke_morningstar
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Sam and Max wrote:
I only use GS when Vallejo Plastic Putty doesn't work. I use VPP pretty much all the time on plastics, and GS on wider metal gaps.


Which plastic putty (Vallejo) do you use? The bottle (70.400) or the tube (70.401)? I was told they had slightly different effects so I was just wondering.

 
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Thank you for replying. Honestly, large gaps are well filled with green stuff, but those small closure lines are pretty hard to be covered with green stuff and morover sometimes green stuff dehydrates and shrinks.
 
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nuke_morningstar
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Oh btw, I forgot to say. It sounds funny but you can also use Matt Varnish to fill gaps or to cover mold lines.

Here is a short tutorial for it:
https://youtu.be/nGENW-i6OhY?t=2m32s
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Nick Wirtz
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The first thing you should be trying is plastic cement: the only gaps I've needed to cover on several core games that can't easily be done with plastic cement and a little smoothing once dry are survivor arms matching with naked shoulders.

I don't really like liquid plastic etc. They're basically just nice putty, so have a lot of limitations. Kneadatite is more expensive and slower working, but far better if you have the patience.

S+M, probably the reason the "wash" isn't really working is that kneadatite/greenstuff hardens by curing, while making a wash is usually based on water-soluble things that harden by drying. You're just putting a bunch of little curing particles in your water.

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Nuke - that's the same tutorial I used. Good stuff.

I love Matt Varnish for hairline cracks. Just be sure to blend the edges with a wet paintbrush or you'll get ponding marks on smooth surfaces (like skin, armor). I like it especially for small parts like shoulder joints on survivors. The bald head of my Old Survivor is almost all varnish (that dang mold gate right into the top of his skull, hah).

Varnish may take several layers, and it shrinks, but it dries pretty quickly. Note that it dries clear so it's not always easy to tell when the surfaces are leveled. Just toss a light coat of primer or paint over it to check.

I used Vallejo Plastic Putty (I bought the bottle, have not tried the tube) on the wing joints of my Phoenix and was able to dab at it with a brush and mostly replicate the feather texture. I use this less often than Varnish and overall have had more trouble with it.


Also consider Milliput. It's a 2-part mix like Greenstuff, but is somewhat water soluble, so you can work it with a wet brush to help smooth and blend. I used it on my Phoenix and Watcher and am really happy with the blended result.


Also, there are some silicone tipped carving tools (Amazon, $7) that I've found to be really useful, and offer more control than a finger dipped in water. (You can still dip them in water, or use them dry). I have this set - it's nice because there's a metal ball on the other end for texturing.

https://smile.amazon.com/Ejiubas-Sculpting-Polymer-Dotting-B...

Lastly, I back Miniature Monthly on Patreon. I am not affiliated with them but will plug Aaron's more recent series on model assembly, filling, and prep. Has been worth the $$ to me.
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Thank you for all your suggestions.
What do you think about my work in the picture above?
 
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Nick Wirtz
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It looks like you haven't smoothed the surfaces that thoroughly; they look a little clumpy/rough. You could have saved a lot of trouble with a different glue. Maybe try cleaning them down a little with a knife?
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Nevver More
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To avoid a rough surface: don’t use green stuff. Seriously, don’t use it. It’s not good for gap filling. It’s not water soluble and not (easily) sandable. What you want for gap filling is milliput. You put a bit of milliput in the gap, then you put some water on your brush and smooth it out. Since milliput is water soluble, it’ll go soft and smooth. When it’s dry, you can easily sand it even smoother. So yeah, use milliput.
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Sammy
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I've just started painting minis. I started with minis from Pandemonium as they aren't super high quality.

I bought the green stuff & tried using that on a few minis to hide some very visible joins, but I had very little success.

I was considering buying the liquid green stuff I've heard about, but I might also track down some milliput if that is easier to work with than normal green stuff.

I guess I'll just try everything & see what works for me.

Thanks for the advice peoples.
 
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Riff Conner
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Milliput is also great in conjunction with Instant Mold/Oyumaru for when you run out of stone face bases.
 
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Abavus wrote:
Nuke - that's the same tutorial I used. Good stuff.
https://smile.amazon.com/Ejiubas-Sculpting-Polymer-Dotting-B...


Not being a sculptor of any sort, I didn't really have tools like that. BUT, man do they come in handy for gap filling and shaping little bits. I used to try smooth gaps with my finger, toothpick, or wax carving tools. These are so much more suitable.

That matte varnish trick... holy crap, never thought of that. Slick.
 
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Nevvermore wrote:
To avoid a rough surface: don’t use green stuff. Seriously, don’t use it. It’s not good for gap filling. It’s not water soluble and not (easily) sandable. What you want for gap filling is milliput. You put a bit of milliput in the gap, then you put some water on your brush and smooth it out. Since milliput is water soluble, it’ll go soft and smooth. When it’s dry, you can easily sand it even smoother. So yeah, use milliput.


This is pretty much spot on. GS is for sculpting largish objects, but not really carvable / sandable like gap filler should be. One would do better with SGT (superglue talc) than GS.
 
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So i have to fix these....

1) Dunno how but i got that little hole in the hairs (would be invisible if it wasn't so deep) being extra tiny i have no idea on how to fill it

2) mid sized mini had lot of issues this had too much wasn t able to do better than this

3) this was first mini i tried and i messed up a little i have a small line of 1,5 mm long quite thin) to fill.


Since evrything else is perfect i'd like to fix those 3 too.

Could anyone suggest me what to use and how to proceed? i have some liquid green stuff but could buy something else.


 
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Alessio Massuoli
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Liquid Green stuff is fine. Also black milliput is okay. Use any of the two.

Now, let me just make some assumptions:

1 - are you going to paint them yourself? If that's the case, I assume you have no experience in painting miniatures, since you are asking how to fill gaps. For having no experience in painting, any solution, including green stuff painfully molded, applied and somewhat filed is more than enough, because the paint job won't likely highlight any possible defect at that level.

2 - are you going to have them painted? In that case, let the painter fill the gaps. With how much a commission costs on average, they can surely spare some epoxy putty.

3 - are you just priming? If you are priming white with no experience, again, the result will likely be of a quality level in which it won't matter. If you are priming black, it is even better, since black priming will conceal any error you could make with anything you will decide to use.

4 - are you leaving the miniatures unpainted? Then DO NOT USE ANYTHING TO FILL GAPS, BECAUSE THE END RESULT WILL BE HORRIBLE TO WATCH!
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t3clis wrote:


2 - are you going to have them painted? In that case, let the painter fill the gaps. With how much a commission costs on average, they can surely spare some epoxy putty.

3 - are you just priming? If you are priming white with no experience, again, the result will likely be of a quality level in which it won't matter. If you are priming black, it is even better, since black priming will conceal any error you could make with anything you will decide to use.


2.5 XD

I will have someone to zenithal airbrush paint them (only black grey white).

Since he is extra busy i was thinking to spare him some time.
 
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Cardyfreak McCardyfreakface
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Ive been greenstuffing the gaps on the pheonix’s back by sculpting a layer of fur and feathers to blend over the gap. First I laid a sausage of greenstuff over the gap to sculpt the feathers. I used metal sculpting tools to push the putty into the gap and get a good anchor on the model. I then used clay shapers (silicon tipped sculpting tools) to smooth the greenstuff. I then used a scalpel to make slices along the greenstuff to mark out the individual feathers, and used my tools to push the green into the shape of feathers. I finished the detail with the knife again to create the feather details.
When this was dry I made another sausage of putty and put this between the top edge of the feathers and the fur above. Again, I used metal tools to push the putty down into place but because this detail is rough I didn’t need to smooth it with clay shapers. I then created the fur texture with my knife.

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Artistix wrote:
I've just started painting minis. I started with minis from Pandemonium as they aren't super high quality.

I bought the green stuff & tried using that on a few minis to hide some very visible joins, but I had very little success.

I was considering buying the liquid green stuff I've heard about, but I might also track down some milliput if that is easier to work with than normal green stuff.

I guess I'll just try everything & see what works for me.

Thanks for the advice peoples.


Liquid Green Stuff contains a lot of water which will evaporate when it dries. So, it will shrink. If you use it to smoothen joins you'll have to do a lot of passes before it's smooth. Epoxy putties like green stuff or Milliput won't shrink when they dry.
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