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Subject: what's the ideal table size for wargaming? rss

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robert wood
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i'm going to have a table made. i want it to be large enough to play most games. i'm thinking of 64" x 44" x 30". i'd appreciate any thoughts on this. thanks.
 
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Lindgaard
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I think you need a table a bit larger.

You need room for at least two 22"x34" maps side by side and additional space for tables, record sheets, notepads etc. and somewhere to roll the dice.

I'd say 100"x50"x30". For large games like "Case Blue" or "The Devil's Cauldron" you need an even bigger table !!!
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Well, I have some experience with this.

The issue is two fold - room for the maps and ability you reach across the table while sitting down.

The average comfortable reach is just over 3 ft.

The average single map wargame is 22 X 34 inches.

The best sized poster frame is 24 X 36.

The largest games I play regularly is 1-2 maps long, either 36 + 36 or 24 + 24 - thus a table needs to be at least 6 feet long.

Thus the most efficient size is 3ft X 6ft. I made mine 3ft X 7ft - this leaves room to play 2 single map games at one time, or room to link together 3 maps in the 24 inch direction and still leave one foot for the miscellany and sundries of gaming.

Build two such tables, and you can link them together for the monsters.

My material was abandoned solid core flat office doors, that were exactly 3 ft X 7ft - so it works out nicely.

A 4 ft X 8 ft sheet of at least 5 ply plywood is a great size to use; no cutting to build the table top, and a simple 2 X 4 frame below holds it up.



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Michael Barlow
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board wargaming or miniature wargaming?
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Thomas Fuhs
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We never got too fancy. We just put a sheet of plywood (4'x 8') over the pool table. Cover that with table cloth. No fuss - no muss. Take plywood off when you want to play pool & it stores in small space (but why would you want to play pool when you have war games?)

No pool table? I still recommend the same size.
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Brad Wagnon
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My gaming tables are made by taking a standard 4x8 sheet of plywood and cutting it lengthwise. My tables are 2ft by 8ft.

I used 2x4's for a frame, and 4x4s for legs. I then covered the table tops with green felt (a camo green color, not pool table green).

I put 3 next to one another for the full size 6' by 8' game table, and take one away for a 4' x 8' boardgame table. Plenty of room for games with up to 3 maps, and a bit of room left over for player aids, reinforcements, and the occasional snackfood.

Hope that helps.
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C Lloyd
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2amp wrote:
but why would you want to play pool when you have war games?

Why indeed?!
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Nick Murray
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I made a Wargames Table for myself which was 8ft Long by 6ft Wide.

It is composed of 2 half elements each of which is 6ft Long by 4 ft Wide.

These 2 Elements are then further compsed of 2 pieces of 6ft Long by 2ft Wide Hardboard. So the Whole table is composed of 4 Surface Pieces.

Then is a Linkage Set of Wooden Batons which holds then all together underneath and a 1.5" Wooden Lip which runs all the way round the full 8ft by 8ft Table & is held in place by Bolts.

The Lips stops dice / figures / items etc from rolling over the edge.

This means I can have either

A) An 8ft by 6ft Table with Lip
B) 2 X 6ft by 4ft Tables with no Lip
C) 6ft by 6ft Table with no Lip

Everything rest on 4 IKEA Table Trestles (http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/50107471) and when taken apart fits into about 2ft by 2ft by 7ft of Storage Space.

Takes a While to put up and put down - But overall I like it.

Construction Materials are Plywood and Hardboard.

Frag. Out.
 
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Michael Taylor
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Pool table size is the way to go. Something really big (Longest Day, Campaign for North Africa, War in Europe) I use some thin panelling with the back side (flat side) up. If you overlap them properly, you can put up any size map and it is reasonably flat. Just kind of hard to reach.

Mike
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Necessary Evil
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Actually I find it best to get a few of these:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productI...

They can be adjusted for height and if you have 3 or 4 of them you can accommodate almost any game. Most smaller 2 player games light Columbia block games fit perfect on just one. You can get the GMT CDG games on 2 and I think the big map GMT games on 3.

They are light and can travel to a con or to a friends easily. When not in use fold them up and stick them in a nook or next to the beer fridge or where ever.

They also often can be found cheaper than that price on the web site.

-M
 
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Michael Edwards
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Well, of course the answer is always, in depends on the game you are playing. Too big, you have wasted end space that gits in the way. Too small, it's unusable.

Expandable via leafs is nice. One place where I go game has a table with very handy end pieces, that can quickly slide down and under the table, or just as quickly deploy to make it longer. I've found that very convenient as we adjust for game size. Always there, can extend the table without messing up anything on it, etc.
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William Crispin
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malloc wrote:
Actually I find it best to get a few of these:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productI...

They can be adjusted for height and if you have 3 or 4 of them you can accommodate almost any game. Most smaller 2 player games light Columbia block games fit perfect on just one. You can get the GMT CDG games on 2 and I think the big map GMT games on 3.

They are light and can travel to a con or to a friends easily. When not in use fold them up and stick them in a nook or next to the beer fridge or where ever.

They also often can be found cheaper than that price on the web site.

-M


I also have a few of these. They work pretty well and I can reconfigure them as I like.

In general the problem with a single table size is that the largest wargame maps are effectively too large to sit comfortably and reach the counters.
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Chris Montgomery
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FragHaggis wrote:

A) An 8ft by 6ft Table with Lip
B) 2 X 6ft by 4ft Tables with no Lip
C) 6ft by 6ft Table with no Lip



Yeah, but can you tell me how to make a 5ft x 1ft Wife with No Lip?
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John O'Haver
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I have two 30" x 72" folding "banquet" tables from Wal-Mart. The legs fold in and each table folds in half for storage under a bed or propped up against a wall. I keep one up at all times. AT 30" x 72" it is large enough for 99% of the games I play.


http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=7679242...
 
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Gene Baker
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Games with dragons, spaceships, and bears aren’t wargames. Call them conquest games or strategy games or crap but they aren’t wargames.
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Take a look at this cool table with instructions.

http://www.compassgames.com/cabinet.htm
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Antigonus Monophthalmus
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gbaker59 wrote:

Take a look at this cool table with instructions.

http://www.compassgames.com/cabinet.htm


I have never wanted anything more in my entire life.

I have a really cool table that is a 3x3 ft, but has two wings underneath the table and you can take out one or both to extend the table. I wish I could find it.
 
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Michael Denman
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scribidinus wrote:
I have two 30" x 72" folding "banquet" tables from Wal-Mart. The legs fold in and each table folds in half for storage under a bed or propped up against a wall. I keep one up at all times. AT 30" x 72" it is large enough for 99% of the games I play.

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=7679242...


Hmmm. This is exactly what I was thinking of doing. It looked good for most 4-player boardgames. I'd probably need that second table for 6-players.

BagpipeDan wrote:
gbaker59 wrote:

Take a look at this cool table with instructions.

http://www.compassgames.com/cabinet.htm


I have never wanted anything more in my entire life.


Bite your tongue, my friend...

http://www.geekchichq.com/The_Sultan_.html
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Antigonus Monophthalmus
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Trump wrote:
BagpipeDan wrote:
gbaker59 wrote:

Take a look at this cool table with instructions.

http://www.compassgames.com/cabinet.htm


I have never wanted anything more in my entire life.


Bite your tongue, my friend...

http://www.geekchichq.com/The_Sultan_.html


See I'll admit I've seen that and it just didn't appeal to me. I would love it for roleplaying but I need a multi-purpose table, and for regular games it just wouldn't work.
 
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Gene Baker
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Games with dragons, spaceships, and bears aren’t wargames. Call them conquest games or strategy games or crap but they aren’t wargames.
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BagpipeDan wrote:
gbaker59 wrote:

Take a look at this cool table with instructions.

http://www.compassgames.com/cabinet.htm


I have never wanted anything more in my entire life.

I have a really cool table that is a 3x3 ft, but has two wings underneath the table and you can take out one or both to extend the table. I wish I could find it.


Your house is so big you've misplaced a table?

I really wonder how practical the compass games table is to play on. One entire side is blocked by the piano hinged top. Playing on the inside surface doesn't seem possible while seated. Of course the inside surface can be blocked by the top for wife/kid/cat protection.
 
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Gene Baker
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Games with dragons, spaceships, and bears aren’t wargames. Call them conquest games or strategy games or crap but they aren’t wargames.
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Trump wrote:
BagpipeDan wrote:
gbaker59 wrote:

Take a look at this cool table with instructions.

http://www.compassgames.com/cabinet.htm


I have never wanted anything more in my entire life.


Bite your tongue, my friend...

http://www.geekchichq.com/The_Sultan_.html


This is why we have home improvement loans.
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Cost?

8 X 4 5 ply plywood, one side sanded birch, about 50 dollars

2X4s to hold it up

first, the 'box' 3X6, centered under the table - 12 ft of 2X6. - about 20 dollars.

Mount this on edge - great strength, and tons of interior surface level for the;

Legs - optimum table height from floor to top of table is from 37-39 inches above the ground.

4 legs, using cut down 4 X 4s. 2x 8 footers - 16 dollars

Fastening the legs? I recommend bolts with washers and one locking washer - 8 of them - 1.50 each - 3 dollars.

-- going to need a 6 inch long 5/8 : paddle bit - figure in 6 dollars for that.---

The table is going to wobble if you don't brace the legs.

I would use more plywood, cut into one foot wide strips, to box out the legs below the 2 X 6 support box. You would need 2 3ft and 2 6ft pieces, so lets cut up some plywood. This need not be expensive plywood, so 25 dollars.

If you don't want to do all that cross cutting, then just use some 1 X 6s - skirt the legs below the box, and fasten with drywall screws.

12 feet of 1 X 6 - about 15 dollars.

Total Material Cost - about 100 - 120 dollars.

skill required - careful amateur carpentry. Remember the simple rule - measure twice, cut once.

Tools;

Circular Saw and a drill, plus box end or ratchet style wrenches.

------------

Optional: Cover it in Plexiglas - about 100 dollars. Call a glass shop to get and cut it for you.

you want a chamfered edge.

Lots of options on mounting the legs - you could use galvanized 4 X 4 post holders; hurricane clips. I like the bolts and screws as it would be easier to take apart that way, but hopefully not - this simple table design is for a somewhat permanent setup.

More options - trim out the edge of the top using 1 X 3 trim - about 20 dollars.

I highly recommend this option - have the trim project slightly above the table top, say 1/8", to ask as a lip to stop stuff from slipping off or as a a counter 'fence'. Add another 20 bucks, but now the carpentry skill need goes up just a bit - 45 degree butt joints are nice to have for this trim work.

I would glue this on with white glue, a little too much, with finishing nails. The white glue will ooze out - use a wet finger to draw this along the edge of the trim where it meets the table so as to caulk the joint.

Lightly sand after the glue dries (24 hours) and leave natural or paint.

A forest green table top with a tan trim looks nice....the frame, forest green too.
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Garry Harless
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I once made a table with two shelf's. The top was used for the game map and the lower shelf was used for the charts and production table's that were not used on every turn. Worked great for games like War In Europe and War In The Pacific. The lower shelf rested on a frame under the top shelf and you simply pulled it out when you needed to use that part of the game. It was a great space saver. Using 1/4" plywood it was light weight but still sturdy. The only problem was my wife thought I had gone over the line with my gaming.shake
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Donald Walsh
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I play on a homemade poker table. I made it 5 years ago for less than $100.

It is 84" long/42" wide (oval shape).

It supports RRT, WotR, and similarly sized games.

Basically a 5" long folding table from staples with a cut to size/shape piece of MDF on top.

With staple gun, apply: sheet plastic (to protect MDF from spills), quilt batting (I would use thin foam if I could do it over), and green velveteen.
 
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Bill Lawson
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I made a table about 20 years ago to play Fire in the East on . 8x4 plywood on 3 sawhorses I built. I could have used another half sized one for all the charts!
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Galen
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Whats the biggest war game map? Is there anything bigger than Eagle Game's Conquest of the empire map?
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