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Subject: Surco Tournament rss

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Jonathan Morton
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The Surco Tournament is a high quality tournament style carrom board made in India. It features a 3" x 2" frame (shisham wood), 16 mm plywood playing surface and weighs about 37 pounds.



My Surco Tournament actually has 20 mm plywood rather than the nominal 16 mm. I have no idea why this is. Using a 15 g striker and blended vegetable starch powder it will get 4 rebounds easily. 5 rebounds takes just a little effort, and 6 is within reach with a strong flick.

The back side of the board is reinforced with a wooden lattice framework.



The framework is nailed together. The nets are pinned in place. These pins are the lowest protrusions off the bottom of the board. I intend to add some rubber bumpers to make the board more suitable for setting on a table.



The board has two ugly but functional plastic feet.



I'm very pleased with the performance of my board and it looks great at a glance. Closer inspection, however, reveals many minor finishing flaws:

- Inconsistent paint finish
- Some sort of debris (wax? glue?) marring paint finish inside frame
- Frame not smoothly finished through corner rounds



- Construction line visible at edge of playing surface
- Poor fit of angular piece in corner causing paint cracking
- Nail heads visible in angular corner pieces
- Paint cracking in other areas along frame. This may be related to climate differences between India and Ontario Canada (via North Carolina USA)



While none of these flaws affect the performance of the board, I did expect better attention to detail. I'm pleased with my purchase, but before recommending the Surco Tournament to other prospective buyers I would want to investigate if other brands (specifically Synco) have the same issues.
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Chakroun Karim
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Thanks for the review! I'll have to check how many rebounds I get from mine.

About :

Jonny5 wrote:
- Some sort of debris (wax? glue?) marring paint finish inside


I removed the ones I saw on mine with hot water; but it takes time to remove them entirely
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Chakroun Karim
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btw, how are you counting your rebounds? I tried from one of the red spots, straight. I get 3 rebounds max.
 
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Jonathan Morton
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As far as my understanding goes, you're doing it correctly. The striker is flicked perpendicular to the baselines it starts on and you count how many times it hits the frame as it goes back and forth.
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Nikolai Cernavin
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carthaginian wrote:
btw, how are you counting your rebounds? I tried from one of the red spots, straight. I get 3 rebounds max.


That might have as much if not more to do with your 10 gramm striker as with the board. You can get good 15 gramm strikers for just 7-8 euros on ebay. It might also be your powder, but I don´t know what you use. And lastly your board just won´t create as many rebounds as better boards.
 
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Chakroun Karim
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Fidel77 wrote:
carthaginian wrote:
btw, how are you counting your rebounds? I tried from one of the red spots, straight. I get 3 rebounds max.


That might have as much if not more to do with your 10 gramm striker as with the board. You can get good 15 gramm strikers for just 7-8 euros on ebay. It might also be your powder, but I don´t know what you use. And lastly your board just won´t create as many rebounds as better boards.


I tried with a 15g striker, and a powder that is very flowing, kinda coarse. looks like it's made of potato starch.

 
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Geo
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You should go for a natural wood board instead of a painted one to avoid cracking paint.

Because these boards are handmade they all have small imperfections. As long as these imperfections are not in the playing surface then you have no real problem.

I applied wood glue to seal all cracks in the wooden framework underneath my board and a hand of wax on the top frame. Don't use anything (wax or cleaning liquids) on the playing surface (except the included powder when playing) or you risk damaging it!

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Jonathan Morton
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GeoMan wrote:
You should go for a natural wood board instead of a painted one to avoid cracking paint.


I prefer the look of the black painted frames.

Quote:
Because these boards are handmade they all have small imperfections.


I do not understand how these go hand in hand. Hilinski Crokinole boards are handmade. Would you expect to see these type of finishing defects on one of their boards?

Quote:
As long as these imperfections are not in the playing surface then you have no real problem.


I agree that they don't affect the quality of the play, and stated as much.
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Geo
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Jonny5 wrote:
GeoMan wrote:
Because these boards are handmade they all have small imperfections.


I do not understand how these go hand in hand. Hilinski Crokinole boards are handmade. Would you expect to see these type of finishing defects on one of their boards?


Because these boards are made en masse in India by cheap labor so they don't take 2-3 weeks to carefully assemble them one by one.



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Tiago Duarte
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With my BullDog carrom board from CarromOnline and using a 15 g striker I can get 5 rebounds and, with a strong flick I can reach 6.
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Max Pfennighaus
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Thanks for the review! Wow, I went and checked the prices on this board..there's no way I'm dropping over $200 on a product with this many flaws.
 
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David Gittins
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tmgd wrote:
With my BullDog carrom board from CarromOnline and using a 15 g striker I can get 5 rebounds and, with a strong flick I can reach 6.


How`s your Bulldog Board from Carromonline holding up after these years? I`m thinking of getting one myself shame you didn`t do a review.
 
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