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Subject: alternatives to spraying rss

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Neil
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I am just about to make a game board. The print is high quality colour laser print. The print will be glued onto illustration board.

What I'm not sure about, and what I'd like your advice on, is how to provide the board with a protective shell without using sprays. I am thinking of painting the image with that milky acrylic varnish we find in art stors. I am thinking of painting on a few coats of acrylic GLOSS VARNISH, and then a coat of acrylic MATTE VARNISH. My hope is that the gloss varnish will bring out the colours, and the matte varnish with cancel the glare. I am also hoping that this will provide a nice shell to the game. Questions: will this provide a nice coat and shell to the game board without affecting the colours? Is another method better?

Thanks for any tips!
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Roberta Taylor
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It sounds like a good plan- it no one suggests otherwise, let us know how it works out!
 
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Rob Robinson
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There are also the options of placing the board in a picture frame, underneath glass, laminating, or covering the board in clear sticky back plastic.
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Lang Bedang
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Hatchling wrote:
I am thinking of painting on a few coats of acrylic GLOSS VARNISH, and then a coat of acrylic MATTE VARNISH. My hope is that the gloss varnish will bring out the colours, and the matte varnish with cancel the glare.


My experience with Krylon Crystal Clear (advertised as a gloss) is that if you give it several light dustings, the end result isn't glossy at all and gives the paper a neat texture.

The stuff stinks, though, and will take several days for the odor to subside. Wear a mask unless you wanna get high from the fumes.
 
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Barry Kendall
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You might consider investing in a regular picture frame with non-glare glass. The frame need not be huge (and a bit of a frame-lip is nice for preventing pieces from careening off into space) and it's easily stored with a hangar on the wall (lets you display your map handiwork, too).

If you really want a liquid coating, acrylic matte varnish should do the trick--don't bother with gloss followed by matte. The degree of gloss in matte varnish depends on how the blend settles: if you don't stir it for a while, it gets fairly glossy, so you could simply experiment with applying after stirring then allowing settling--try three minutes, five minutes and ten minutes to see the difference--then apply an overall coat at that stirring interval.
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Kyle Hough
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Well, if it isn't absolutely necessary to make a hard "shell" you could always try clear contact paper.
 
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Jack Neal
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Let me know how it works.

I have a fair amount of luck with cold laminate, either single-sheet and wrap it around or a pouch. It depends on the size of what you try to laminate though.

The only major downsides to lamination are:
- You can apply it wrong and get wrinkles and bubbles. It's easy to screw up.
- It has a tendency to scratch.

I haven't tried hot lamination.
 
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Luke Morris
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I know nothing about spraying but I DID misread the title of this thread as "alternatives to spaying"......Which I have even less knowledge about.

I really have failed so far at the University of Life
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Donald Cleary
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Hatchling wrote:

I am thinking of painting on a few coats of acrylic GLOSS VARNISH, and then a coat of acrylic MATTE VARNISH.


Don't do it. Painting over gloss is a bitch. It won't stick right. You'd need to sand it first to rough it up, and that just defeats the purpose of the gloss. If you want some sheen, use semigloss.
 
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Neil
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BigD145 wrote:
Hatchling wrote:

I am thinking of painting on a few coats of acrylic GLOSS VARNISH, and then a coat of acrylic MATTE VARNISH.


Don't do it. Painting over gloss is a bitch. It won't stick right. You'd need to sand it first to rough it up, and that just defeats the purpose of the gloss. If you want some sheen, use semigloss.


Right you are!

Just now I ran experiments on separate pieces of the high gloss laser print paper that I want to use for the final print.

--I tried painting one piece with acrylic matte varnish. The varnish wouldn't take. It streaked like I was painting water on plastic.

--With the other piece, I sprayed krylon matte finish before painting the acrylic matte varnish. It worked perfectly: the varnish took very evenly to the paper, and as a bonus it made the colours jump out nicely. I think I will go with this method (I will tolerate the one spray undercoat).

I'll let everyone know how it goes (it should take about a week).
 
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kSwingrÜber
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Bosh wrote:
...you could always try clear contact paper.

I was thinking this same thing, but I'm not sure how it would be good for a game board. I do use contact paper to cover various game cards and bits sometimes, love the stuff. I used contact paper to cover both sides of all my Talisman cards (way back when) and they are still in great shape even after about a bazillion plays, and the occasion food/drink mishap (though it does make the deck about twice as thick as without).

Air bubbles would be a BIG problem, unless you're very careful AND lucky. Even covering an 8½×11 sheet (which I've done a few times for some PnP games' cards) can be tricky... and you need a good burnishing tool to get it stuck down nice and tight...

 
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Neil
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Hi folks,

I'm reporting back on my experiment with brushing varnish onto an image instead of spraying.

I mounted the prints onto thick illustration board. The prints were glossy, so to make the varnish stick I first had to spray them with one light coat of Krylon Matte Finish. The varnish I used was Liquitex Matte Varnish. If you let the bottle sit, the opaque material sinks to the bottom, and the glossy stuff sits on top. Dipping my brush into the top clear part, I brushed a couple of coates onto the board an the result was a nice gloss. Unfortunately, I could see brush strokes. I tried brushing a couple more coats on hoping the brushstrokes would disolve, but they remained. I decided to live with this. For the final coat, I stirred the varnish up a bit.

If you zoom in on the bottom of the board, you'll see some brushstrokes:



You can't see the brushstrokes during play unless there is a bright light shining directly onto the map, or unless you catch reflections by bending down and look at the map from a bit of a worms eye view. This doesn't bother me in the least.

The brushstrokes don't bother me because I can rarely see them. However, I must conclude that spraying (and dealing with the toxic fumes) is the way to go if you want to make the very best board you can.
 
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Justin Fitzgerald
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Used to be a professional miniatures painter. Gloss then Matte is a great suggestion. You can use about any gloss spray but which matte depends on how matte you want it. We always used Testor's Dullcote and nothing but it.

You can also use just Dullcote but we were operating under the idea that the gloss layer may bring the colors out more.

We found after spraying for months on a white board that the sprays have a very faint yellow color but that is the one color you really don't have to worry about tainting your colors, imo. Sunlight is yellow so it looks natural.
 
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Donald Cleary
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Hatchling wrote:

If you zoom in on the bottom of the board, you'll see some brushstrokes:


Sand after getting a few layers down. Use 400-600 grit.
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