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Subject: Miniatures size comparison rss

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Dan Stueber
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I was wondering if there is a site or some pics somewhere with a size comparison of the various different size miniatures? I was looking up some miniatures in the 1/600 scale but there is nothing in the pictures that lets me get a sense for how big the actual mini is. I was looking at maybe buying some miniatures but am unsure what a good size is. Thank you in advance.

Dan Stueber
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Brian Collins
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Here is a site I've found useful, these are a bit bigger than 1/200 to be sure.

http://www.warflag.com/shadow/cast/figuresize/figures.htm
 
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Travis Reynolds
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This doesn't directly answer your question, but The Miniatures Page would probably be a good place to start. If something like this is out there, a post on there will result in someone pointing you in the right direction.

http://theminiaturespage.com/

TR
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Confusion Under Fire
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A figure at 1/600th scale would be just 3mm high.
a typical tank would be about 12mm long
A 600 foot long battleship would be 1 foot or 30 cms long

I am not sure of this is what you wanted, but you can get figures in a large number of scales 2mm, 6mm, 10mm, 15mm, 20mm, 25mm, 30mm and more. Some figures made by different manufacturers have varying heights in the same scale.

Figures to replace a board wargame could use 20/25mm also commonly using the railway size of HO/OO
AFVs could use 1/300th scale (6mm)
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D Conklin
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How about this?:

http://www.littleleadheroes.com/archives/000407.html
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Ryan Powers
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It's already been mentioned, but even if you pick a scale, be wary of differing manufacturers. Some of them have fairly different interpretations of the same scale.

Maybe we can help steer you to a scale that works for you. What are you looking to do with them?
 
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Bob Roberts

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Here is a pic I posted here recently



Sorry, no frame of reference there either if you are unfamiliar with standard figure sizes (which aren't very standard lol)

The 1/72 guy is about an inch tall.


For 1/600, have you looked at www.picoarmor.com ?
They have a couple pics with a penny for reference.

They look pretty good to me, and they just dropped the prices at Pico Armor so I've been trying hard not to order any...
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John Bobek
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Dan, I live near Midway airport. If you want to see the different scales in person, email me and maybe I can set up a FTF. I have nearly every scale.









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Dan Stueber
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Thanks whatambush, your description helped a lot. I read that 1/600 was 3 mm in size and I was trying to figure out how a tank that was 3mm long could be painted? Now that I understand that its 3mm high that makes sense.
 
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Dan Stueber
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keethrax wrote:
It's already been mentioned, but even if you pick a scale, be wary of differing manufacturers. Some of them have fairly different interpretations of the same scale.

Maybe we can help steer you to a scale that works for you. What are you looking to do with them?


Truthfully I saw the Pico Armor on ConsimWorld and thought they would look cool replacing some wargame pieces in a few of the NATO-Warsaw Pact games I have. I have never used mini's, except in D&D a few times so am unsure what I am looking for. However, the price of those Pico minis is real cheap and I could probably build a few units for not to much $$$$....which is in short supply lately.

I am basically trying to branch out a little in my wargaming.
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Dan Stueber
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badinfo wrote:
Here is a pic I posted here recently



Sorry, no frame of reference there either if you are unfamiliar with standard figure sizes (which aren't very standard lol)

The 1/72 guy is about an inch tall.


For 1/600, have you looked at www.picoarmor.com ?
They have a couple pics with a penny for reference.

They look pretty good to me, and they just dropped the prices at Pico Armor so I've been trying hard not to order any...


That picture is perfect, exactly what I was trying to see to understand the difference between the sizes.
 
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Dan Stueber
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John, I live in Lake County, so I am a little ways from Midway however I would be open to playing sometime. Where do you play if you don't mind me asking? If it is at a local game store perhaps I could go there one day and join in.

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Dan Stueber
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Is there a specific type of paint to paint the minis? When I painted some D&D figures I used a white base coat and then just cheap craftpaints I got from the local craft store. I wouldn't need them to be perfect or anything.

Also, do the pieces come with a base or do you need to make that yourself?

And a final question, if I wanted a Cold War minature game rules set is there a good one to get?

Thanks for all the help everyone.....I appreciate it.

Dan
 
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Kerry Harrison
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BooBoo130 wrote:

And a final question, if I wanted a Cold War minature game rules set is there a good one to get?


Cold War Commander seems to be one of the more popular ones these days.
 
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John Bobek
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Quote:
John, I live in Lake County, so I am a little ways from Midway however I would be open to playing sometime. Where do you play if you don't mind me asking? If it is at a local game store perhaps I could go there one day and join in.

Dan,
When school's out, I usually have friends over my house on Sunday afternoons. I do game some Wednesdays at the Bookends Cafe in the Oak Lawn Library. Otherwise, if there's something going on around you and it's summer, let me know. Have wargames - Will travel. ninja
 
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Bob Roberts

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BooBoo130 wrote:
Is there a specific type of paint to paint the minis? When I painted some D&D figures I used a white base coat and then just cheap craftpaints I got from the local craft store. I wouldn't need them to be perfect or anything.

Also, do the pieces come with a base or do you need to make that yourself?

And a final question, if I wanted a Cold War minature game rules set is there a good one to get?

Thanks for all the help everyone.....I appreciate it.

Dan



Craft paints are fine, I use em at times, though I have a lot of Vallejo and Reaper Master series paints that I bought while trying to support my FLGS (sadly out of business)
The craft paints tend to be a little thinner than dedicated miniatures paints, but that simply means sometimes you need more than one coat.
They are very cheap compared to hobby paints, and you can find most colors you will need, and if you have a bit of an eye you can mix the colors you can't find.

I used to use a white primer, then I switched to black, now I use black and "drybrush" with white before painting. Brings out the highlights better than just black and still keeps the shadowing effect of black primer.

Badinfo's quick and dirty painting guide:
Prime white
Block paint the basic colors on all parts of the mini (block paint meaning just paint everything the basic color it is going to be, trying your best to stay within the lines. Don't worry about shading in this step. Just get the colors on in the right places.
Buy a can of Minwax Polyshades TUDOR satin acrylic stain. You'll have to look in smaller hardware stores, Lowe's and Home Depot don't carry the Tudor shade. I get mine at Ace Hardware.
Stir the stain up, mixing it well. Go outside. Take your painted miniature and dunk it in the woodstain. Seriously. Yes, I know, but do it anyway. Then shake the miniature to remove most of the stain, I do a sort of windmill arm motion three or four times.
Use a paper towel or some toilet paper and dab away the excess stain where it has pooled too heavily.
Let dry, then spray with Krylon Matte Sealer.

These were done following this exact procedure, except I used a black primer with white drybrush as mentioned above...



Note, those are 28mm figs, somewhat larger than the 1/72 guy in the comparison pic. This method will work on everything down to 10mm figs though for 10mm figs I paint the stain on with a brush instead of dipping them. For 1/300 (6mm) or 1/600 you don't need to be so involved.
Basically at those small sizes, prime them in black and then using a fairly small brush, dab the colors on trying to leave a little black between the areas. Better guide to painting micro figures here:
https://www.baccus6mm.com/index.php?content=howto

Most figures come with a small base cast on, see the 15mm FOW guy above.
Most figures will also need an additional base if you want them to stand up for any length of time. I use custom made thin plywood bases from Litko Aerosystems, fender washers, thin sheet metal bases from Wargames Accessories, matte board, MDF board, sheet plastic etc etc
Basing needs will also vary from game to game. So it helps if you can figure out a generic basing system, or one that allows you to rebase easily. If you figure that out, please let me know zombie

Cold War games for miniatures?
Depends on what level of combat you are looking for.
Man to man skirmish?
Look at Chain Reaction 3.0 from www.twohourwargames.com
Fast and Dirty at www.freewebs.com/weaselfierce/
Over There at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/overthere_modernskirmishwargam...

Those are all free btw.
For more free rules there is of course
http://www.freewargamesrules.co.uk/

For larger level games where you have squads, platoons, battalions
Cold War Commander
Modern Spearhead
There is a modern modification for CrossFire: Rules & Organizations for Company Level WW2 Gaming which is one of the best infantry-centric wargames I have ever played.
Stargrunt II which is sci-fi but easily modified and is also free

And some of my friends have been discussing using the World at War: Eisenbach Gap
series as rules for miniatures.

Hope some of that helps.
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BooBoo130 wrote:
if I wanted a Cold War minature game rules set is there a good one to get?


The most used sets for modern stuff seem to be at 1 model : 5 vehicles scale and the main ones are probably either Command Decision II or else Modern Spearhead although there are certainly others out there.

The first question, and most difficult, to ask yourself is what scale (how many each model represents, not so much the size of the models) you want to game at - and that is usually tied to the trade off of how large a force you want to command (which ties to how many arms you want to combine) versus the level of gory detail you want in your tank-v-tank shootouts.

And when you figure it out maybe you can clue me in, because I am still trying to decide myself between Command Decision II and Battlefront: WWII for a corps-division-brigade size command micro-armour WW2 game. And I admit to being a little stumped by the choice between those and the two scales they work at.

I have written Avalanche and asked them (jokingly) to please hurry and publish "Panzer Grenadier: The Micro-Armour Game".


oh, oh, oh, by the way - if you were into small scale WW2 or Vietnam infantry combat I would drop everything and suggest CrossFire: Rules & Organizations for Company Level WW2 Gaming which also has an excellent (free on the web) Vietnam offshoot under the title "Incoming" or "Vietnam Crossfire". I think there might also be a sci-fi version called "Star-Crossed" or something like that (somewhere the title "Bugs Don't Surf" also comes to mind). Arty Conliffe did a good un there - but it is really mostly just for infantry combat where you command a company or at most a battalion and the only tanks are maybe a couple you have crunching around for close support.
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Dan Stueber
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Bob, thanks for the information on how to paint the mini's. I will definately do some searching of the miniatures websites for some more pointers.

I was actually looking at a scale of something where each piece equals a battalion or company.

I appreciate all the help everyone....thanks again.
 
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John Bobek
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Quote:
Badinfo's quick and dirty painting guide:
Prime white
Block paint the basic colors on all parts of the mini (block paint meaning just paint everything the basic color it is going to be, trying your best to stay within the lines. Don't worry about shading in this step. Just get the colors on in the right places.
Buy a can of Minwax Polyshades TUDOR satin acrylic stain. You'll have to look in smaller hardware stores, Lowe's and Home Depot don't carry the Tudor shade. I get mine at Ace Hardware.
Stir the stain up, mixing it well. Go outside. Take your painted miniature and dunk it in the woodstain. Seriously. Yes, I know, but do it anyway. Then shake the miniature to remove most of the stain, I do a sort of windmill arm motion three or four times.
Use a paper towel or some toilet paper and dab away the excess stain where it has pooled too heavily.
Let dry, then spray with Krylon Matte Sealer.


Sheesh! And one wonders why more people don't wargame with miniatures. Don't get me wrong, I DO appreciate a great paint job. But, who has time for all that? Certainly not me! I spray paint the base color and add the pertinent details. Yeah, spray paint! It works just fine and the time factor is negligible.



My miniatures are painted for combat, not a museum display. Sometimes, they go into games partly painted (Not unlike the Prince of Wales sailing against the Bismarck) With plastic HO and 54mm,

I usually don't even bother painting if the base color is close enough, e.g. blue for French Napoleonic infantry.



 
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Ryan Powers
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Wargamer204 wrote:
Quote:
Badinfo's quick and dirty painting guide:
Prime white
Block paint the basic colors on all parts of the mini (block paint meaning just paint everything the basic color it is going to be, trying your best to stay within the lines. Don't worry about shading in this step. Just get the colors on in the right places.
Buy a can of Minwax Polyshades TUDOR satin acrylic stain. You'll have to look in smaller hardware stores, Lowe's and Home Depot don't carry the Tudor shade. I get mine at Ace Hardware.
Stir the stain up, mixing it well. Go outside. Take your painted miniature and dunk it in the woodstain. Seriously. Yes, I know, but do it anyway. Then shake the miniature to remove most of the stain, I do a sort of windmill arm motion three or four times.
Use a paper towel or some toilet paper and dab away the excess stain where it has pooled too heavily.
Let dry, then spray with Krylon Matte Sealer.


Sheesh! And one wonders why more people don't wargame with miniatures. Don't get me wrong, I DO appreciate a great paint job. But, who has time for all that? Certainly not me! I spray paint the base color and add the pertinent details. Yeah, spray paint! It works just fine and the time factor is negligible.


You do realize the method you just commented on is incredibly fast, don't you? It's probably only a tiny, tiny fraction faster than what you claim to do in the response I quoted, and likely looks tons better due to the quick and dirty dip method of shading.

Sheesh! Indeed. At least find someone (like me) who does use a long process before you make yourself look foolish.
 
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John Bobek
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Quote:
You do realize the method you just commented on is incredibly fast, don't you? It's probably only a tiny, tiny fraction faster than what you claim to do in the response I quoted, and likely looks tons beetter due to the quick and dirty dip method of shading.

Nothing personal, Ryan. Paint away to your heart's content. I know you do a great job. But, unless you're using a house paint brush on a tray full of minis at one time, it won't be faster than a spray can. When I was in college and when I first started teaching, I had the time to paint more or less as you described. Expanded teaching duties, coaching, science fairs, board memberships, writing my book, caring for an elderly parent, maintaining a house and a social life, all conspired to leave me with an ever growing collection of unpainted lead figures. I could find time to buy more easily than the time to paint what I had purchased. Ergo, "speed painting." It works fine, especially when you consider the majority of people who are playing in my games in a typical year are junior high age students. A number of them have taken up the hobby. However, if they saw your painting directions and considered that to be the necessary first step to miniatures gaming, most would bow out. Now, after gaming for awhile, if they desire to upgrade their unpainted or semi-painted minis to a better quality, that's great! They're already hooked anyway. Since this is mainly a boardgame site, I'm concerned that non miniature gamers would get the impression that the museum painting regimen is mandatory and they'll keep on browsing.
 
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Wargamer204 wrote:
Quote:
You do realize the method you just commented on is incredibly fast, don't you? It's probably only a tiny, tiny fraction faster than what you claim to do in the response I quoted, and likely looks tons beetter due to the quick and dirty dip method of shading.

Nothing personal, Ryan. Paint away to your heart's content. I know you do a great job. But, unless you're using a house paint brush on a tray full of minis at one time, it won't be faster than a spray can. When I was in college and when I first started teaching, I had the time to paint more or less as you described.




I'm very confused.

#1. I didn't describe anything. Merely commented on two descriptions, one of yours and one form another person.

#2. The method *you* describe as yours, and the one *I* quoted by you is more than "hit it with a spray can". Did you read what you wrote? And what I quoted?

I can quote it again for you if you'd like:
"Certainly not me! I spray paint the base color and add the pertinent details" Emphasis added.


The differences between the method you wrote that I quoted and the other one that you (and then I) quoted are:

1) Method of applying the main coat. (Both still involve hand painting the details). And really, nothing in the first method indicates you couldn't do the first color with a spray can, that's just an extension of not worrying about staying "in the lines"with that coat when hand painting. The distinction you've attempted to create here is largely false. Spray away! I sure do,( even in my much more involved than either method under discussion stuff). I tend airbrush it, which gives me more color options, and includes a bit of a cleanup time penalty, but it's in the same ballpark.

2) The final shading step, which if you read it/tried it you'd find is *amazingly* fast. This is the only real difference between the two methods I quoted. It's one step. One very fast step.

Your two previous posts are self contradictory. And you're misinterpreting the method you quoted as well I think.

The method you complain about (not my method, which isn't relevant) really is the same as the first method you mention + one very, very fast step at the end. You could do that step for a couple hundred pieces in 10-15 minutes. I've done just that with ~300 skeletons. Which, incidentally, *were* just spray painted and dipped, as they had no other details to pick out by hand.

For someone who can't even keep his story straight, there's an awful lot of condescension oozing out of your posts. So have fun responding or not, I'll certainly not bother.
 
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