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Axis & Allies Naval Miniatures: War at Sea» Forums » Variants

Subject: Using a Hex map. rss

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How would one go about this? I know the scale is 1:1800, but what size hexes should the map be?

I was thinking of developing a series of house rules for use with a hex map and such things as firing without full broadsides. I probably would incorporate the submarine rules listed in these forums as well.

Anyone have any suggestions? The pre-painted minis seem too good to not try to make some sort of more advanced rule set.
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wmd8tc wrote:
How would one go about this? I know the scale is 1:1800, but what size hexes should the map be?

I was thinking of developing a series of house rules for use with a hex map and such things as firing without full broadsides. I probably would incorporate the submarine rules listed in these forums as well.

Anyone have any suggestions? The pre-painted minis seem too good to not try to make some sort of more advanced rule set.


4" hexes work nicely. Here's a shot of our group using a hexmat for the game:



Info on the above:

Enhancing the Axis and Allies War at Sea experience! I upgraded to a Hotz ArtWorks sea blue felt mat with 4" hexes, which not only improves the look of the game, but also aids in keeping the ships flat and upright (especially the "bendy" destroyers) and prevents them from sliding around. Note also the use of Heroscape terrain pieces to form 3-D islands. You will also see the use of pennies as markers to indicate which ships have performed their action in the current phase - in this case, pennies mark the Japanese ships which have just fired their guns and torpedoes. Finally, you will also note the damage counters flipped to their backsides next to several Allied ships - these indicate damage just inflicted in the current phase, such that their effects do not impact these ships until the next turn.

The Hotz ArtWorks mat is the 6 foot by 4 foot version with 4" hexes, and can be purchased for roughly $40 from hotzmats.com. A bit pricy, but if you play the game often like I do, you will consider this money well spent!
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Hmmm, I will have to look into that map.

I was thinking of modifying Close Action rules involving facing, but without the wind constraints. That might necessitate a smaller sized hex than 4".

How do you handle stacking? My concept was to have one ship across multiple hexes, with no stacking.
 
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wmd8tc wrote:
Hmmm, I will have to look into that map.

I was thinking of modifying Close Action rules involving facing, but without the wind constraints. That might necessitate a smaller sized hex than 4".

How do you handle stacking? My concept was to have one ship across multiple hexes, with no stacking.


Using the 4" hexes simply approximates the original squares, so we use the same stacking limits as per the originals (i.e. 2 ships, 1 sub per side in a given hex, plus whatever number of planes is allowed - I don't remember if it's 3 or 4). If you are going to use multiple hexes, turning radii, facing, and no stacking, I'm thinking perhaps 2" hexes. This would still probably allow destroyers to occupy only one hex rather than two, but then, they are more nimble. I'm pretty sure you can get Hotz mats with 2" hexes.
 
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Pierre Philippe Goyer
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wmd8tc wrote:
I was thinking of developing a series of house rules for use with a hex map and such things as firing without full broadsides. I probably would incorporate the submarine rules listed in these forums as well.

Anyone have any suggestions? The pre-painted minis seem too good to not try to make some sort of more advanced rule set.


We have made some rules.
See: http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/31393

Version 4.51 are being uploaded and pending.

Owll
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Cool, thanks.

Do you have any indication of what size hexmap would be good for your rules?
 
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Pierre Philippe Goyer
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W. Dameron,

It's all explained in the beginning of the rules.
And version 4.51 is now in the file section.

3.5 inches between central dots.
9 dots per 16 dots for our rules.

You do not need to trace hex sides...Just make sure the dots are very clear and stick the ships along with them. It makes the sea much more realistic. Of course, your dots would have to be in a hex style grid, not orthogonal. And when facing matters, ships face the next dot having the 6 possibilities.

If you use your brickstyle mapsheet,it is more narrow and diagonal distance is shorther so you have to reduce the air range of Bombers and land based aircrafts. But that's all. We never used the mapsheet.

The rules seem lenghty due to explanations and justifications but in reality, there are only a few dramatic changes. They can be used as a group or separatly.

Happy gaming.

Owll
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E J
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wmd8tc wrote:
The pre-painted minis seem too good to not try to make some sort of more advanced rule set.


Exactly! The old wayto play seems always to end up with a clump of ships in the middle having a dice fest.
 
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Marc M

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I've only played a few games. Seems like the games with simple objectives like "kill more points of the other guy's ships than your own" do end up with clumps of ships.

Give the Americans and or Japanese a secondary objective like "double or triple points earned for carrier kills" and it makes things more complicated.
 
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Toronado3800 wrote:
I've only played a few games. Seems like the games with simple objectives like "kill more points of the other guy's ships than your own" do end up with clumps of ships.

Give the Americans and or Japanese a secondary objective like "double or triple points earned for carrier kills" and it makes things more complicated.


We usually play randomly generated scenarios (using a simple system I developed) that typically involves one side attempting to exit a certain number of certain types of ships off the other side of the map (generally simulating attacks on convoys or invasion fleets, raider breakouts, or attempts to deliver supplies). That introduces some tactical decisions on both sides, especially the one attempting to prevent the other side from exiting. We don't use the objective counters, as they are too artificial. We also usually play in match format, with the players switching sides from the 1st to the 2nd game, and the one scoring the most combined "mission" points in the two games being the winner. Definitely prevents clumping, though there can be some congestion as the player attempting to exit the map tries to slice through the defender's battleline. Works pretty well.
 
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Thomas Mink

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We have the 5' hex map right now from Hotz.
We may go to the 4" to make distance rules even better.

Here's how we do movement.

1.Facing is toward hex side.
2, Ship must move 1 hex forward each move.
3. Move 2 may be either a turn or another move ahead on the same course.
4. Destroyers and other small ships may turn to any hex edge. Crusers may turn up to 2 hex edges. Capital ships may turn 1 hex edge
5. No ships are required to make second move if available
6. Ships with 1 movement make move as if it was the second move.
7. Moving off the edge of the map retires ship from action (1/2 VP)

We've been gleaning ideas from various places and will be putting out our own hex rules this summer. We are looking into a simple critical hit table that would damge various components of a ship.






 
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Cristian Buzas
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I really like this idea for movement. I'm going to try it out in my play sessions and let you know how it works out.
 
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