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Subject: Best adhesive for resource stickers printed on regular paper? rss

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Trey Chambers
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I didn't have sticker paper so I printed the resource stickers on regular paper. Now I have to cut them out by hand (boooooo) and put them onto the wooden resource markers.

Whats the best adhesive to glue regular printer paper to wood? I was thinking regular Elmer glue, but that might be messy and not hold up.

Better ideas?
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eduardo espada
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The problem with regular elmer's glue is that it is not waterproof and will dry rather brittle and yellowish. Sobo glue or other similar PVA (poly-vinyl acetate) adhesives are better. Be sure to spread an even layer of adhesive (not spots) to minimize any wrinkling of thin paper. Letting them dry under some pressure, like under a good sized book, wouldn't hurt. Water based adhesives such as these can affect an ink-jet print as the ink is not waterproof, so be careful. Good luck!
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A thin coat of varnish (clear spray paint) over the finished product might not be a bad idea.
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Ian Sergeant
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and you might get a circle cutter...cutting those by hand will be rough.
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Doug Faust
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If you don't have label paper to print them out on (you can find blank sheets of label paper pretty easily), I'd try double-sided tape. In any case, I doubt glue would be particularly effective.

I cut out all of the labels by hand. My wrist hurt for about a week after that.
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Scott Everts
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Buy yourself some label paper (Avery 8165 if I remember correctly) and a 1/2" circle punch. You're doing hundreds of labels. Save yourself some agony and get the tools needed to make the job easier and more professional looking.
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Trey Chambers
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ScottE wrote:
Buy yourself some label paper (Avery 8165 if I remember correctly) and a 1/2" circle punch. You're doing hundreds of labels. Save yourself some agony and get the tools needed to make the job easier and more professional looking.


Is it hundreds? I'm only doing the objects and veggies.

Can a 1/2" punch be found at an Office Max type place? Or at a craft store? Or both?

Can anyone confirm if varnishing the paper on top of the wood will work? It seems like something that harsh would destroy the paper.
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Scott Everts
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Shampoo4you wrote:
ScottE wrote:
Buy yourself some label paper (Avery 8165 if I remember correctly) and a 1/2" circle punch. You're doing hundreds of labels. Save yourself some agony and get the tools needed to make the job easier and more professional looking.


Is it hundreds? I'm only doing the objects and veggies.

Can a 1/2" punch be found at an Office Max type place? Or at a craft store? Or both?

Can anyone confirm if varnishing the paper on top of the wood will work? It seems like something that harsh would destroy the paper.

Oh, thought you were doing all of them. I did both sides and so it was many, many stickers that took me several evenings. You can probably get by with one circle punch, I needed two since I wore out one during the job. They say you can use tinfoil to sharpen them but couldn't get it to do enough to work. Also I laminated mine so it wore it out faster.

I got my circle punch on ebay. The local craft stores only stocked 5/8" punches.

I've tried clear coating in the past and only worked well if done when the blocks were light colors. Dark colors bleed through. That's why I use a laminating machine to lay on 3 mil plastic on the top, then punch or cut. If you do own a laminator be sure its alittle hotter since you want the plastic to stick well. And it tends to work better with inkjet printing since laserjet printing lays on top of the paper unlike inkjet that soaks in.

Here's what my labeled tokens look like-
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Trey Chambers
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ScottE wrote:
Shampoo4you wrote:
ScottE wrote:
Buy yourself some label paper (Avery 8165 if I remember correctly) and a 1/2" circle punch. You're doing hundreds of labels. Save yourself some agony and get the tools needed to make the job easier and more professional looking.


Is it hundreds? I'm only doing the objects and veggies.

Can a 1/2" punch be found at an Office Max type place? Or at a craft store? Or both?

Can anyone confirm if varnishing the paper on top of the wood will work? It seems like something that harsh would destroy the paper.

Oh, thought you were doing all of them. I did both sides and so it was many, many stickers that took me several evenings. You can probably get by with one circle punch, I needed two since I wore out one during the job. They say you can use tinfoil to sharpen them but couldn't get it to do enough to work. Also I laminated mine so it wore it out faster.

I got my circle punch on ebay. The local craft stores only stocked 5/8" punches.

I've tried clear coating in the past and only worked well if done when the blocks were light colors. Dark colors bleed through. That's why I use a laminating machine to lay on 3 mil plastic on the top, then punch or cut. If you do own a laminator be sure its alittle hotter since you want the plastic to stick well. And it tends to work better with inkjet printing since laserjet printing lays on top of the paper unlike inkjet that soaks in.

Here's what my labeled tokens look like-


I'm very jealous of your pieces, but that's way more effort than I am willing to put in I'm afraid.

So my options are down to:

-Elmer's glue

-PVA glue

-Double-sided tape

Also a possible option: varnish after putting the stickers on (but dark colors may bleed through).

Anyone else have thoughts on what would be the best method?

And has anyone had any luck at finding 1/2" punches at Office Max or Hobby Lobby type stores? Maybe even Home Depot?
 
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Mayday Games
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You can get a spray adhesive at Walmart or just about any major store, I even got it at "Big K" so you know its popular, they don't carry anything usually.

It works pretty well for stuff. There is also puzzle glue that is supposed to be pretty good, designed to glue puzzles to backing for framing, etc. Good luck!
 
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Tim Collins
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honestly, this is one of those things where its better off not done at all unless its done right. the circle punch is a half inch circle punch found at many craft stores for 4 dollars. I used it too

This is the one

https://www.croppingcorner.com/browse/scrapbooking-punches/p...

also, go with some fullsheet label paper
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eduardo espada
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Beware spray adhesives, as they will ultimately crystallize and fail. They will also yellow. In a few years you'll have a box full of yellowed paper discs and powdered bits of adhesive.

I agree that sticker paper is the most practical option, but if you are committed to go forward with what you've already printed, my suggestion would be PVA adhesive with a final coat of spray on acrylic varnish, such as krylon crystal clear satin finish.

The trick with varnishing is patience. Put on too heavy a single coat, and the high solvent content will certainly start dissolving the ink. Spray a light coat, wait at least half an hour, another light coat, now wait about 2-3 hours (the second coat of varnish will soften the first coat somewhat) and apply a final, slightly heavier third coat.

Half inch punches shouldn't be too hard to find at a good sized art/craft store. The company Marvy Uchida makes many specialty punches, and shouldn't be too tough to find. If not in your area, then certainly online.

Granted there are less laborious ways to go about this, but don't think you can't achieve some excellent results by hand gluing paper to wood. PVA adhesives are the glue of choice of book binders and conservators across the world. Just be prepared to work slowly and carefully, and your pieces will easily last for the life of the game.
 
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Trey Chambers
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Even if I went with label paper, wouldn't that adhesive eventually fail and peel off? Or should I varnish those too?
 
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Ever try to peel off an old label, clawing at it with a fingernail until it finally comes off (if you're lucky) little chunks at a time? If you get a name brand label paper you should be fine for a looong time and then some. Varnishing is meant to protect the surface from excessive handling, especially if you use an ink-jet printer over a laser printer. If you find a choice in paper thickness for the labels, opt for a thinner one. Thicker paper results in higher edges which are more likely to catch edges, fingernails, etc...
 
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