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Space Hulk (third edition)» Forums » General

Subject: Preferred plastic glue for the minis rss

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Mark Crane
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Sorry to delve into the minutiae, but should I just use Revell or Testor's model glue for my SH miniatures? Is there anything less odiferous and toxic that will work?
 
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craniac wrote:
Sorry to delve into the minutiae, but should I just use Revell or Testor's model glue for my SH miniatures? Is there anything less odiferous and toxic that will work?


You should use something like the Testors liquid plastic cement (with the little brush built into the screw-on cap. You will have much better control.

This stuff is a solvent that essentially breaks down the plastic then fuses it together.

It smells, and is toxic, but it works better than anything else.

Stay far away from the classic gooey "model airplane glue" in the tube.

There are nontoxic plastic glues (you know, for kids) but they do not work nearly as well.
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Mark Crane
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Ok, thanks. Looks like I won't be gluing these together in my office after all then.
 
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Brandon
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Well, I can't do any comparison as I've only used one, but I used Testor's "Non-Toxic Cement for Plastic Models" with great results.

Smells kinda...fruity in a weird chemical way, too.

http://www.testors.com/product/136636/3521/_/Non-Toxic_Cemen....

There's the link. Michael's had it for a buck and a half-ish. I didn't really see a need for any brushes.
 
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Olivier Lamontagne
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bryanwinter wrote:
Stay far away from the classic gooey "model airplane glue" in the tube.


Is there any special reason?
 
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Necessary Evil
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you should use CA glue or superglue to glue these models not plastic glue. Plastic glue will melt the model so if it gets into a spot where it can be seen it will ruin the model.

-M
 
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Capitaine Grappin wrote:
bryanwinter wrote:
Stay far away from the classic gooey "model airplane glue" in the tube.


Is there any special reason?


Mostly just ease of use and control.
 
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malloc wrote:
you should use CA glue or superglue to glue these models not plastic glue. Plastic glue will melt the model so if it gets into a spot where it can be seen it will ruin the model.

-M


I disagree. CA bonds by seeping into two porous surfaces and "clutching" them together. Plastic has no porous surface, so there is nothing for the CA to bond to.

Plastic glue works for the reason you state, it "melts" the two pieces together. That is why you need to use a substance that is easy to control the flow and placement. Just a small drop on one surface, press and hold. Or, hold the two pieces together, touch the tip of the brush to the seam, and let the solvent flow around and into the joint.

In fact, for important jobs, I use a separate smaller brush to apply the glue to smaller joints.

Plastic cement for plastic
CA (superglue) for wood and porous materials
Epoxy (putty) for metal figs
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Necessary Evil
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Walk into a GW store and ask them what glue to use for their models and they will hand you a bottle of overpriced CA glue.

-M
 
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Walk into a real hobby shop that sells plastic models, model trains, RC cars and the like and they can explain their shelf full of many different glues, and which ones are best for which application.

I worked at one for 5 years.
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Jon Grey
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I use a tube of Testor's that looks like this:



I've been using it for my Last Night on Earth minis and recently on my Space Hulk minis. Carefully applied a bead next to the socket and got the strongest bond imaginable.

I've used super glue on my Last Night on Earth minis before to attach nickles to the bases. The bonds lasted about 2 months; stuck to the metal so it obviously failed to adhere to plastic.
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SPARTAN VI wrote:
I use a tube of Testor's that looks like this:


That's essentially the same stuff as the liquid and will work fine. I just like the added control you get with the liquid. Especially for precision work.

CA for metal-to-plastic will work OK, but the bond will improve if you can score both surfaces with a sharp blade (give the CA something to grab onto).
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I use Super Glue Gel. It works wonders on these things. Just be careful not to spill it around where you want the bond to stick... it leaves some white powder residue. Not a major problem, but it's a pain to reach in the tiny size cracks and crevices to get it off.
 
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The stuff I use is here: http://www.testors.com/product/136633/8872C/_/Liquid_Cement_...

Easy to use and control and works great, and I work with plastic ALOT.
 
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Mark Crane
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I went to a real hobby shop and bought a small, $3.00 bottle of Testor's with a brush in the lid. They sell warhammer so I suppose I could have asked. Other posters have indicated that these models fit very snugly, so I would imagine that there is more than one possible answer to this question.
 
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FCSchmidt wrote:
The stuff I use is here: http://www.testors.com/product/136633/8872C/_/Liquid_Cement_...

Easy to use and control and works great, and I work with plastic ALOT.



I've never worked with plastic since I was 8 and tried to build a model airplane... that turned me off of model building so much I almost didn't buy Space Hulk for that reason!!!!


However, I gave in and got the last copy at my local model store and asked for him to recommend some glue and that is exactly what the guy at the model store handed me when I asked. No clue if it is good glue, but it is VERY VERY VERY easy to use. Might have built more models if I had had that 25 years ago!
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Mark Crane
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Yeah, I had no spillage, no spider webs, nothing stuck to the kitchen table, and the lid keeps the fumes down. And only $3.00 (I am referring to the testor's bottle brush glue). Speaking of childhood hobbies, I was shocked to discover that Revell models are $20 a pop now.
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Blake Lipman
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I used a product called "Plastic Surgery" it is a plastic glue that breaks down the plastic (melts). I use it all the time to repair minis.
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