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Subject: Several questions from an aspiring minis painter rss

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Booker Hooker
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I'm mainly interested in repainting my World of Warcraft miniatures. The sculpts are great but the original paint jobs are often sloppy or just plain lacking in effort.

I've watched several videos as well as read various tutorials and forum threads about painting minis, and I've got a good idea of where to start, but I've still got several questions.

1. Using Oils and Acrylics on the same mini.
I plan on mainly using water based paints (due to ease of cleanup), but I've allready got a set of Testors paint for model car painting. Can I paint a coat of oil based paint over a coat of acrylic paint?


2. Do I need to buy special brushes for drybrushing?


3. Filling cracks or spaces.
My WoW minis have a lot of spaces between arms and torsos, or down the seam on the back of a monster. What do I use to fill these spaces with before I paint?


4. Brushing on primer.
Most tutorials recomend spraying on primer, but I'd really prefer to brush it on. Can I still achieve good results this way?

5. Do I need to primer over, or remove the existing paint on my WoW minis?

6. Buying paints at the store that won't mix in the jar.
Some of the paint at our local hobby shops (we don't have gaming stores here that I'm aware of) has probably been on the shelf for quite a while. If I pick up a bottle of paint, shake the hell out of it, and it still won't mix, is that a bad sign? I'm talking about acrylics (Model Master brand)...
 
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Mark Crane
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7. Will acrylics from Walmart work, or will they be more trouble than they're worth?

(I hope this isn't too much of a threadjack)
 
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A Morris
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I'm by far not an expert, but I'll throw my $0.02 worth in...
Scratches wrote:
I'm mainly interested in repainting my World of Warcraft miniatures. The sculpts are great but the original paint jobs are often sloppy or just plain lacking in effort.

I've watched several videos as well as read various tutorials and forum threads about painting minis, and I've got a good idea of where to start, but I've still got several questions.

1. Using Oils and Acrylics on the same mini.
I plan on mainly using water based paints (due to ease of cleanup), but I've allready got a set of Testors paint for model car painting. Can I paint a coat of oil based paint over a coat of acrylic paint?


Stick to Acrylics if you can. They clean up easier, they are better for mixing and you don't have to use nasty cleanup agents after the fact. Testors paint are crap (in general, but I can't speak for their higher end stuff). Take a look online as you can easily get some Citadel paint or (my favorite) Polly S if you can find it.

Quote:
3. Filling cracks or spaces.
My WoW minis have a lot of spaces between arms and torsos, or down the seam on the back of a monster. What do I use to fill these spaces with before I paint?


I've used white glue, polly fill or even just paint. Some will use modeling clay or "green stuff", but after you place the protective coat on the figure it's not really an issue. (The only product I trust from Testers is their Dullcoat, which is very good)

Quote:
4. Brushing on primer.
Most tutorials recomend spraying on primer, but I'd really prefer to brush it on. Can I still achieve good results this way?


As long as you don't put too much on and have a decent enough brush it's not an issue. I've started brushing primer on my terrain items and it has been working out quite well. Test on a scrap figure first. For the plastics, make sure you wash them first (soapy (dish) water and a soft brush/rag)

Quote:
5. Do I need to primer over, or remove the existing paint on my WoW minis?


Remove. Painting over old paint never works out well.

Quote:
6. Buying paints at the store that won't mix in the jar.
Some of the paint at our local hobby shops (we don't have gaming stores here that I'm aware of) has probably been on the shelf for quite a while. If I pick up a bottle of paint, shake the hell out of it, and it still won't mix, is that a bad sign? I'm talking about acrylics (Model Master brand)...

Yep, those are dry. Do not want.
 
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David Winter
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Someone gave me 88gg for a rules translation and all I got was this lousy overtext
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You do not need special brushes for drybrushing, the only thing to note is that drybrushing ruins the points on brushes very quickly,
NEVER drybrush with a brush you plan to use for painting.

With that in mind, the best drybrushes are old brushes, or cheap brushes,
I find cheap nylon bristled brushes work for drybrushing.
 
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Jefferson Krogh
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I recommend brushing on primer, actually. Spray is faster, but it can be a pain in the neck to cover everything (not to mention the fumes, the need for sunshine and little to no breeze, and the occasional can that messily self-destructs in your hand).

I use gesso to prime all my miniatures (Liquitex black, though white is fine too) with a brush. It works equally well on metal or on plastic. It may look like it's gooping up and clogging all the detail while you're applying it, but don't worry. As it dries, it shrinks and clings very tightly, keeping all the fine details.

A good webpage for primering with gesso can be found at:

http://thescreamingalpha.com/2009/05/05/priming-your-minis-w...
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Jim Haltom
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Scratches wrote:
1. Using Oils and Acrylics on the same mini.
I plan on mainly using water based paints (due to ease of cleanup), but I've allready got a set of Testors paint for model car painting. Can I paint a coat of oil based paint over a coat of acrylic paint?


2. Do I need to buy special brushes for drybrushing?


3. Filling cracks or spaces.
My WoW minis have a lot of spaces between arms and torsos, or down the seam on the back of a monster. What do I use to fill these spaces with before I paint?


4. Brushing on primer.
Most tutorials recomend spraying on primer, but I'd really prefer to brush it on. Can I still achieve good results this way?

5. Do I need to primer over, or remove the existing paint on my WoW minis?

6. Buying paints at the store that won't mix in the jar.
Some of the paint at our local hobby shops (we don't have gaming stores here that I'm aware of) has probably been on the shelf for quite a while. If I pick up a bottle of paint, shake the hell out of it, and it still won't mix, is that a bad sign? I'm talking about acrylics (Model Master brand)...


1. Oil works fine on acrylic, but needs thinner to clean up. Stick with acrylic if at all possible.

2. 2 or 3 cheap brushes of various widths. Don't buy a quality brush for drybrushing because it kills the bristles. Just make sure the bristles are soft.

3. Games Workshop sells a 2 part epoxy ribbon that's fantastic for filling in gaps.

4. Brushing primer is okay, but spraying has two advantages. You can prime lots of minis in a very short time, and it is more even than a brush. If you don't mind the time involved, then by all means brush away.

5. Always prime over, unless the mini's paint job is so heavily caked on you lose all the detail. Removing paint can be done, it's just a major hassle.

6. Crack open the paint before you buy it if possible. Acrylics will eventually set up over time, and start to harden in the container. This is just the way they are. Make sure you shake the hell out of it, and if it's not a creamy, liquid consistency, then don't buy it.

Hope this helps.
 
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Jim Haltom
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craniac wrote:
7. Will acrylics from Walmart work, or will they be more trouble than they're worth?

(I hope this isn't too much of a threadjack)


I used Walmart craft paints for years. You get a lot of good paint, about 300% cheaper than Games Workshop paints, and most paints sold specifically for minis. Just be sure to topcoat with a clear matte spray after you're done with the painting.
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Dave B
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I use black gesso for priming, too. As was said there's also white gesso if you prefer a white primer. I never had much luck with spray primers. It's nearly impossible to get all the crannies and crevices covered, in my opinion. Plus the other disadvantages previously decribed.

Use cheap or old wornout brushes for drybrushing. It does ruin the point so do not use good brushes that hold a good point for this.

Cheap craft paints can work - but there's a reason they're cheaper. It has something to do with the pigment, not as fine and/or as dense as pigment in paints made for painting miniatures I think.

The 2-part epoxy ribbon GW sells is usuallt over-priced. You can buy larger quantities of Kneadatite (the blue and yellow stuff that comes in a ribbon (or in blocks?)), aka "greenstuff" that a lot of miniature sculptors use (because it holds up to vulcanization). It works well for filling large gaps but takes a bit of practice as it tends to be very sticky (water, spit, nose grease, vaseline, etc. will help with that). Gap-filling depends on the size and nature of the gap. Sometimes paint will be enough to hide it. Other times some type of putty, glue, etc. will be needed. Things like greenstuff are the way to go if the gap needs some sculpting because the gap is in the midst of a textured area.

Paints that have separated have probably been sitting too long. If you can get them to mix by shaking they're probably okay. But if you can get fresh paint you're better off.

Hope that helps!
 
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Nomadic Gamer
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White or grey primer. (See below)
Spraying is better as you can prime lightly to not kill details.
Acrylics are fine.
When done - no black primer is needed as there is a
black product ("EXTENDER") that is washed on the figures and pools in the hollows to bring out the highlights.
see more tips at
hmgs.ord
 
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Booker Hooker
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Thanks for the replys. That gives me a better idea of where to start. I'm sure I'll have some more questions once I get started.
 
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