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Subject: Getting Serious About Tuckboxes rss

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Richard Sampson
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Bothell
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I have made a few tuckboxes before out of various poor quality materials, but now I think it is time to step up and get serious about it. I was wondering what kind of paper is recommended. I want something durable, not to difficult to find, works in my printer, and comes out looking nice. Also what kind of glue is recommended? I have used glue sticks before, but they don't seem to hold as well as I would like.
 
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Joe
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I've had good luck with cardstock and double-sided tape.
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john guthrie
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dedbob wrote:
I've had good luck with cardstock and double-sided tape.


for me and my chubby fingers, double-sided tape is a bit too unforgiving - you get one shot at lining everything just so.

i use Pentel Roll 'N Glue - it lets me adjust just a bit, but holds almost immediately. of course, you have to let it dry for a while (unlike tape).

john
 
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Danny Perello
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Salmo
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I used to use HP 58lb Glossy Laser Photo Paper (because I use a colour laser printer) but have recently switched to 110lb Premium Card stock because it's much heavier and I prefer it's feel. Both however are too thick to simply fold so every fold line has to be scored first which makes the whole process take a little longer. You mentioned you wanted paper that will work in your printer but didn't specify which printer you have...

For glue I use Elmer's White Paper Glue because I've found that tape doesn't hold very well and glue stick glue, over time, becomes brittle and breaks. I have better control with the white glue too.

I know you didn't ask but as far as cutters go I use the 10mm breakable blades with a straight edge. All other cutters I've tried aren't precise enough. A good cutting mat is also important.
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Richard Sampson
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My printer is a Pixma (ink) photo printer. It seems pretty typical as far as photo printers go.

Also if I need to cut things, I will probably just use my xacto.
 
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Nick King
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I have a Canon Pixma 7600 I think, a multi function. I use 110lb card stock, and load it from the bottom tray.

I use a rotary cutter on a cutting mat with a metal ruler as a straight edge. If it has a cork back, I flip it cork side up. I clean up the corners with an xacto, as the rotary isnt the easiest to line up to an edge exactly.

The trick to double sided tape is to tape it before you cut. This lets you be much less accurate, and use 2 pieces on wider flaps.

I score with a bone folder and straight edge first, then tape, then cut out the tuck box, and then assemble. I also never use the tuck box style that has a bottom tuck, I have found the formats that emulate a traditional bicycle card box work the best for me.

My pixma prints clear ink over the regular paper prints to protect it, if yours doesn't, I would use a spray fixative to make sure your boxes don't smear.
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Rudolf Aligierski
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I agree with above posters, but want to add one more thing.

I printed my tuck-box on 200-250g paper. I wanted to use glossy, but decided to go for regular - glue hold better.

Bookbinder's CR glue works great. It's white, but after drying it gets transparent, it holds any paper/cardstock great. Polish brand would be "Magic" though that wouldn't help you much. Any Vicol glue will do.

But first, before folding I gone over every fold-edge with dull kitchen knife - just regular average dull knife - it didn't cut anything, but made folding easier. I used ruler of course (same as during cuting wit any rotary/bookbinder's sharp knife)

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