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Subject: Best way to protect cards? - other than lamination rss

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Don
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Does anyone have any suggestions as to what is the best way to protect home-printed playing cards other than lamination?
 
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Flying Arrow
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Sleeves?
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Mark Farr
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As the poster above says, surely it must be sleeves? There are various sizes to choose from too, so you should find what you're looking for, or close enough. The 100 micron FFG sleeves can make flimsy cards feel pretty sturdy.
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Don
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Thank you but my OP was too brief.

I want to print full sheets of cards at home, cut them, and then protect them while playing. Sleeves sound good while they are in storage but you can't really play with them can you?

Is there a good spray sealer that can be used on a full sheet of cards that are cut and then played with?
 
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Why couldn't you play with them? Many on here do. I've tried it, but my wife doesn't like the feel. She would rather play Dominion with no sleeves and buy another copy when they wear out than have all her cards sleeved.
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Terry Clapacs
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You'll probably find that you can play with the sleeves on quite well as long as you have the right size sleeves. Or could you just print your cards on a sturdier card stock? They do make that stuff you are supposed to spray on jigsaw puzzles to "preserve" them, but I'd be surprised if that proves satisfactory.
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Bruce Scott
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Lockridge wrote:
I want to print full sheets of cards at home, cut them, and then protect them while playing. Sleeves sound good while they are in storage but you can't really play with them can you?


Collectible card game players have been playing with sleeved cards for years. There are many sizes of sleeves available. In standard sizes, you can get sleeves that are either clear or opaque-backed.

Many people on this site are using sleeves for Dominion. I think my set would need replacement by now (at least of the core treasure and victory cards) if I hadn't sleeved them.

You've got choices as to thickness of sleeves as well. If you choose thick,opaque-backed sleeves, then you can even print off your home card sheets on regular paper if you want to.
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I use a thicker cardstock with 2 glossy sides - specifically Xerox Digital Elite Silk Cover 280 gsm. It works fine and feels like a traditional car weight, flex and slide.
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tar heel wrote:
Why couldn't you play with them? Many on here do. I've tried it, but my wife doesn't like the feel.


Of course the sensation of play can feel different when using a sleeve, but I hope you and your wife know the potential long term consequences of not using protection.

...of course I'm referring to the possibility that the game goes out of printwhistle
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tar heel wrote:
I hope you and your wife know the potential long term consequences of not using protection.

The long term consequence is that you'll have a captive audience of playtesters.
laugh


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Thanks folks,
So the consensus is to either play with sleeves or simply play with cardstock and reprint if they wear out.

I've never played with sleeves before so I'll have to give that a whirl.

Thanks all
 
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I use Plaid brand Clear Acrylic Sealer (Matte) on everything I print out on cardstock. It helps protect from drips, food, etc. I imagine it will help them last longer too.

I get it at Walmart, in the craft section. It isn't expensive. A 12 oz can will last me 5-8 projects depending upon the size of them and how many coats I put on.
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Lockridge wrote:
I've never played with sleeves before so I'll have to give that a whirl.

Thanks all


There are some very thin sleeves on the market and if you get the exact size you will have no problem.
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Donald Cleary
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Celinashope wrote:
I use Plaid brand Clear Acrylic Sealer (Matte) on everything I print out on cardstock. It helps protect from drips, food, etc. I imagine it will help them last longer too.


Krylon is the more common brand and the stuff works well. I wouldn't recommend using it in winter time. Ideally you want to work outdoors with minimal humidity and around 21+ C.
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Mark Crocker
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Almost any old "clear coat" will do. Spray the sheets before cutting.
 
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Lockridge wrote:
Thanks folks,
So the consensus is to either play with sleeves or simply play with cardstock and reprint if they wear out.

I've never played with sleeves before so I'll have to give that a whirl.

Thanks all


Well I would have commented but you took out my option straight away. I print on 110lb cardstock then laminate. This makes them thick and sturdy...Great cards to play with.
 
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Jim Miller
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Quote:
Ideally you want to work outdoors with minimal humidity and around 21+ C


Or about 70 degrees Fahrenheit (For those that do not speak Celsius)cool
 
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thoia wrote:
Lockridge wrote:
Thanks folks,
So the consensus is to either play with sleeves or simply play with cardstock and reprint if they wear out.

I've never played with sleeves before so I'll have to give that a whirl.

Thanks all


Well I would have commented but you took out my option straight away. I print on 110lb cardstock then laminate. This makes them thick and sturdy...Great cards to play with.


Can you explain with some details how do you laminate them? The only experience I've with lamination is with A4 sheets. Which kind of pouches you use for cards? you laminate 1 by 1 or a full a4 sheet then you cut them? Don't they come too thick (for playing and shuffling)?
 
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Elianto wrote:
Can you explain with some details how do you laminate them? The only experience I've with lamination is with A4 sheets. Which kind of pouches you use for cards? you laminate 1 by 1 or a full a4 sheet then you cut them? Don't they come too thick (for playing and shuffling)?


I have recently laminated all the cards in Star Wars: Epic Duels and Star Wars: The Queen's Gambit. I used A4 sheets. I considered using card pouches but the cards are of a non standard size and the card pouches work out far more expensive. I could fit 9 cards in one A4 sheet. My work has one of those nice, big trimmers. It's fairly easy to trim them all to the same size with one of those. I just "eyeball" it, using the markings on the cutting board. I also invested in a heavy duty desktop corner rounder, so I can round the corners evenly once laminated.



I used 250 micron (125 micron each side) laminate and they are not too thick. The cards in these games are flimsy and wear very quickly. They were also "warped" (bowed/curved) out of the box. The lamination has fixed that.

Shuffling is not as easy as when sleeved (with decent quality sleeves), but these cards do not fit any sleeves sizes I can get hold of, and still shuffle more easily than they did before I laminated them. They were always a little flimsy for shuffling and the fact that they were curved/warped/bowed didn't help. Once laminated, sliding one half of the deck into the other is quite simple.

I wouldn't do it often, as laminating takes time. Where possible, sleeves do the job. When it's required though, it works like a charm.The one Obi-Wan card was mangled (it dropped on the floor and a player then "massaged" it unknowingly with his boots). It was impossible to miss in the deck after that. After lamination, it's not easy to spot.
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cbs42 wrote:
tar heel wrote:
I hope you and your wife know the potential long term consequences of not using protection.

The long term consequence is that you'll have a captive audience of playtesters.
laugh




There is however an incubation period until the play testers "ripen". About 5 years to start on simple games. Longer for more advanced games.
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Mike Kollross
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Tobold wrote:
Elianto wrote:
Can you explain with some details how do you laminate them? The only experience I've with lamination is with A4 sheets. Which kind of pouches you use for cards? you laminate 1 by 1 or a full a4 sheet then you cut them? Don't they come too thick (for playing and shuffling)?


I have recently laminated all the cards in Star Wars: Epic Duels and Star Wars: The Queen's Gambit. I used A4 sheets. I considered using card pouches but the cards are of a non standard size and the card pouches work out far more expensive. I could fit 9 cards in one A4 sheet. My work has one of those nice, big trimmers. It's fairly easy to trim them all to the same size with one of those. I just "eyeball" it, using the markings on the cutting board. I also invested in a heavy duty desktop corner rounder, so I can round the corners evenly once laminated.



I used 250 micron (125 micron each side) laminate and they are not too thick. The cards in these games are flimsy and wear very quickly. They were also "warped" (bowed/curved) out of the box. The lamination has fixed that.

Shuffling is not as easy as when sleeved (with decent quality sleeves), but these cards do not fit any sleeves sizes I can get hold of, and still shuffle more easily than they did before I laminated them. They were always a little flimsy for shuffling and the fact that they were curved/warped/bowed didn't help. Once laminated, sliding one half of the deck into the other is quite simple.

I wouldn't do it often, as laminating takes time. Where possible, sleeves do the job. When it's required though, it works like a charm.The one Obi-Wan card was mangled (it dropped on the floor and a player then "massaged" it unknowingly with his boots). It was impossible to miss in the deck after that. After lamination, it's not easy to spot.


Whats the name of the corner rounder shown and where did you buy it?
 
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Not playing with them.
 
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Mark Farr
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MK-Ultra71 wrote:
Whats the name of the corner rounder shown and where did you buy it?


It's the Warrior Desktop Corner Rounder. Here is the page on their website: http://www.warrior.com.tw/products_detail.php?id=65&uid=88&f...

One can purchase different dies for it, but it ships with a 6mm rounder blade which is perfect. There is a smaller 3.5 mm die that will round a corner to look the same as most cards. After lamination though, the 6mm makes for a more pleasant look.

I bought it here in South Africa from a distributor, but it can be found online. There is also the Akiles Diamond Corner Rounder, widely available in the US, which looks to be exactly the same product in every detail:


You can find it here for $135 (US): http://www.mybinding.com/.sc/ms/dd/ee/554/Akiles-Diamond-1-C..., but it really is all over the place. The price can be as much as $225, so be sure to shop around.

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