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Subject: Advice on painting mini barrels rss

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Greg CZ
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weird, when I followed your link, I was already logged on with someone's account from Italy...

Logged out.

The barrels are good idea. Spray painting would be the best perhaps. Any street artists near you? Paint shops?

By hand it would take ages, dipping does not look good. Me thinks.
 
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Lee Wardle
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Use acrylic paints; They are a lot easier to use and look much better in my opinion.

One method is as follows:

1. First use a very thin layer of black and cover the whole barrel, get right into all those creases but make sure it is a very thin layer so as not to actually fill in the gaps.

2. Wait to dry. This shouldn't be very long at all.

3. Dip an old brush into some dark brown paint. Make sure you don't wet the brush first. Then wipe off all the paint from the bristles using a kitchen cloth. Drag the brush perpendicular to the lines on the barrel so that the Dark brown that is left in-between the bristles sticks to the up-most parts of the model. This will leave the black in the creases to give you a shadow effect.

4. Wait to dry again.

5. Use a lighter brown colour on your brush, but this time really try and remove all the paint from it. VERY lightly dust the model in the same way as before. hopefully this colour will only stick to the edges of each "plank".

6. You guesses it...wait to dry.

7. If you like you can then use a very light layer of ink or "wash"to give the wood a more textured feel. I suggest a Sepia or chestnut ink.

8. Wait to dry...again..

9. Use a metallic colour and a thin brush to gently add the metal bands around the barrels.

DONE!
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Lee Wardle
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They are not really in focus in this picture, but I can't find my camera to get a better picture at the moment.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
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Rat Moose
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Lee's method is a fantastic method, looks great, and is REALLY easy - its called "drybrushing" if you want to find videos/tutorials on the net.

For something as small as the barrels you are using, i would consider only doing a couple of layers (a dark and a light brown) and then a black ink/wash to pick out the depths. The trick to drybrushing really is to take ALL the paint off the brush, then be surprised at how much is still there when you paint the barrel! Be aware that you will use a lot more paint drying off your brush than on each barrel. Do lots at once and you wont waste too much paint. For drybrushing i prefer water based acrylics (and these are likly cheapest and easiest to get hold of). I use revell paints.

In terms of seperating colours for different goods - i would consider painting the ends different colours (easily identifiable, looks like an open barrel if done right)

If you just want to have the barrels as all over colours, i would consider soaking the lighter coloured ones in the appropriate colour ink - though im not sure how well this will take (cant tell if the components are varnished or sealed in any way) - if you have the components already - do some testers! This method should keep the grain you can see in the other barrels.

This has turned into a mammoth post - my appologies, but i hope its helpful
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Wolfgang Zelller
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Reading the other replies here and having a lot of those barrels myself, I just wanted to add a caveat regarding drybrushing and inking.

In comparison with the barrels shown in Lee's picture above (which I suppose are metal sculpts) these wooden barrels from Bedi have very little surface structure. Technically they are not miniatures, but more like tokens. Drybrushing and inking techniques both rely on detailed structure to work. So those might fail here, especially for a beginner without experience in miniature painting.
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Lee Wardle
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wolfzell wrote:
Reading the other replies here and having a lot of those barrels myself, I just wanted to add a caveat regarding drybrushing and inking.

In comparison with the barrels shown in Lee's picture above (which I suppose are metal sculpts) these wooden barrels from Bedi have very little surface structure. Technically they are not miniatures, but more like tokens. Drybrushing and inking techniques both rely on detailed structure to work. So those might fail here, especially for a beginner without experience in miniature painting.


Good Point.
 
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Lee Wardle
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ldsdbomber wrote:

Yes, thats a good point, I am not necessarily looking for tremendous barrel work, only a "good" way to get the PR goods colours on there and have it look not too "mickey mouse". I am just not sure if for example, a wholly yellow or white barrel might "lose" some of the barrel character, making it more like the basic hex pieces that come with the game, on the other hand, just a solid top and bottom might look "silly", and a "swatch" on the side might be tricky to keep neat.



Perhaps then it would be better to just water down some black acrylic (or use a wash) and paint it on so that it falls into the creases, giving you the shadows but preserving the original colour.
 
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Ted Groth
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To differentiate products, you might consider whether some types, such as tobacco, would be shipped in crates rather than barrels.

Here is an example of something available for model railroading. but these are admittedly FAR more expensive than the barrels you already own.
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/292-91001

For painting the barrels, colors on the ends, and maybe a colored letter code like a label on the side, to aid the color blind) should work well to differentiate them. Without the inset ends it won't really look like product in an open barrel, but they aren't usually shipped open anyway.

If you haven't actually purchased the barrels yet, here is a source for barrels with inset ends, but again these are FAR more expensive than the ones you found! http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS0389 (just not quite as expensive as the crates!) There are also various sizes available.
 
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Wolfgang Zelller
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LordHellfury wrote:
Sadly, it might take some more advanced modeling and painting skills to do it. Such as leaf litter on the top and painted like tobacco or red berries modeled on the top to represent raw coffee cherries.

Personally I don't like Puerto Rico, otherwise I would already be working on it, but pimping it does not seem so advanced to me.

The bright coloured barrels could easily be decorated using printed colour transfers on their belly and on the top/bottom. Then just paint the hoops in contrasting colours, maybe even metallics (if metallics, paint black first!) and finally add a good clear varnish to it.

Or if you don't want to use transfers, do the corn barrels in plain ochre, the indigo in well, indigo, sugar in white, then add the metal hoops and again, varnish.

The boats would be very easy to make if you have a saw, a sander and a drill. Saw out a nice basic boat form from a board (you can use waste parts here, since they are so small). Then sand the edges smooth, drill the holes about 1/3 deep of the barrel's height with a diameter, so the barrels will fit.

Where is the advanced bit here? devil It seems rather obvious.
 
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Wolfgang Zelller
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I knew I've seen this somewhere before:



So the only difference would be the use of the barrels instead of the original resource tokens.

Anybody interested in ships like this? With the exception of the colonists ship they would be very easy to do, although I might use beech wood (plywood or massive) and round the edges a little just for effect.

I might try to do one just for fun... I can always use it with Lifeboats...
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Wolfgang Zelller
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ldsdbomber wrote:
I really like the dark wood one also for the colonists, and would probably prefer all ships in the same colour.

That looks like rosewood. I don't have exotic woods available, but as long as the wished tone is darker, one can always stain the wood.

Ok, I did it. 25 minutes, a laminated beech board from the waste and a little sweat. Here is a prototype of a custom Puerto Rico resource boat made to match the mini barrels from Bedi:



The borders of the holes are a little rough, because I didn't have a quality forstner drill bit available for that diameter. If I will do a series of those boats, I will fix that. The bottom of the holes are filled with a little black foam (punched to size with an arch punch of course ), so you don't see the small center hole from the forstner drill bit and to add some contrast when they are open.
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Steve Duff
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"Excuse me while I whip up a prototype in 10 minutes that puts most finished projects to shame..." shake

Geeze, that's incredible work dude.
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Wolfgang Zelller
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UnknownParkerBrother wrote:
"Excuse me while I whip up a prototype in 10 minutes that puts most finished projects to shame..." shake

Geeze, that's incredible work dude.

Thanks a lot .

In the meantime I got the first set finished. I'll need to take another pic now...

Edit: Here it is:



I posted that info with the pics, so I will copy it here:

If there is some interest in such ships as above, I might be willing to spend a day or two in the workshop. Price before shipping would be 25 Euros for a set of 5 ships, raw beech wood, sanded (15 Euros unsanded, so there will be some raw edges, but you can always sand them down yourself).

I could also order the barrels from Bedi here in Europe and add them for their actual cost, but I won't do the painting. So you will still have to do the missing colours yourself.

Still thinking about what to do about the colonists ship...

Oh, and if anybody wants a down-sized version of those ships that match the original barrel tokens of the game, that would be possible as well.
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Wolfgang Zelller
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ldsdbomber wrote:
I think I will take a set

Well, I will be happy to send them to you. I will only wait some days if other people want some as well. It is much easier to do them in bulk.

Quote:
but need to check the dimension of my barrels (or have you already done that?).

In your original posting above you gave the link to Bedi. That is where I got my barrels as well and they match the description of the barrels shown on your link (diameter = 15mm, height = 20mm)

Quote:
Is it just the two colours shown there for barrels?

Yes. I don't know where these barrels come from (=for what game they have been made), but they are really cheap. Compare their price to other game components and you will see.

Quote:
Also are there other options for the holes, how about small wooden discs to fill instead of black foam?

Basically you don't need to fill them at all if you don't mind the look of the wooden ground. I prefer the black bottom as it looks "deeper". I will take a picture to compare that tomorrow.

Wooden discs would be another option, but it is more work than those rubber foam discs. Either I would have to order 15mm discs (30 of them) or I would have to saw them from a dowel. In both cases this would raise the cost. Maybe I will have another idea, let me think about it. Anything that is cheap, not more than 2mm thick and could be punched with the arch punch would work (Punching wood doesn't work well). Hmm.. adhesive black velours foil maybe? Or plastic edge veneer...

Quote:
really incredible work dude and super fast!

Thank you. The family was gone today, so I could afford to spend a little time for a fun gaming project. I'm rather happy how those boats turned out.
 
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Ron Parker
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wolfzell wrote:
Wooden discs would be another option, but it is more work than those rubber foam discs. Either I would have to order 15mm discs (30 of them) or I would have to saw them from a dowel. In both cases this would raise the cost. Maybe I will have another idea, let me think about it. Anything that is cheap, not more than 2mm thick and could be punched with the arch punch would work (Punching wood doesn't work well).


You could also use an appropriately sized plug cutter, if you have one. Assuming you're using a bandsaw to cut out the boats, you could probably also use it to resaw the plugs out of a block of wood.
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Wolfgang Zelller
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parkrrrr wrote:
You could also use an appropriately sized plug cutter, if you have one.

Unfortunately I don't. Never really needed one yet.

Quote:
Assuming you're using a bandsaw to cut out the boats, you could probably also use it to resaw the plugs out of a block of wood.

I have been using the table saw and cut the bow with the scroll saw.

But now that you mention it, if Lee insists on having the bottom done in wood, I actually could saw very fine discs off a dowel with the scroll saw as well. Haven't thought of that before. Somehow I was fixed on thinking to do it with the miter saw and I never had much luck sawing very thin discs with that one (might need to do some machine pimping there).

This will possibly set up the next problem: Where to get a 15mm dowel if you don't have a lathe to make one yourself...
 
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Sterling Babcock
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I think I am a little bit late to the party. I would love to get a set of the 6 ships sized for the original goods, but I am afraid of what the shipping would cost. Any idea of how much a set would be sent to the USA?
 
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Wolfgang Zelller
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Solamar wrote:
I think I am a little bit late to the party.

Thanks for your interest and don't worry, I can always build some more as long as I find some time.

Quote:
I would love to get a set of the 6 ships sized for the original goods, but I am afraid of what the shipping would cost. Any idea of how much a set would be sent to the USA?

The weight will easily be below 2kg, so it can be sent as uninsured small package. That costs 14 Euros to the US.

Edit: Actually they are below 500g, so they can be sent as registered letter costing 8,05 Euros to the US.

I will contact you via geekmail for details.
 
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Coen Velden
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Hello Wolfgang, I'm also interested in ordering a set of ships (maybe even with the colonists ship?)
I'd like to order them unsanded, would that be possible?
I'm talking about the 'original goods' size.
 
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Wolfgang Zelller
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Geekmail coming.
 
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