Wolfgang Zelller
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EDIT: Disclaimer^2: Don't use this method with MayDay boards!!!

This method can only work for boards with wooden surfaces and several layers of finish on top. As it seems, the MayDay boards are made like "floor laminate", a printed paper/foil on MDF with a thin finish on top. One user reported that with his board the dust of a pimple seems to be *under* the foil. In such a case, using this method might do serious damage to the MayDay boards.



Standard disclaimer: This is not for the faint of heart. Using this method to remove "pimples" on your board can do serious damage to the surface of your board. So please only try this if you are aware of this risk. Don't do it if you feel unsure if you are up to the task. If you try it, do some tests on cheaper objects before attacking your Crokinole board. I will take absolutely no response for damage done to your board!

When doing the finish for a Crokinole board, it happens that the occasional piece of dust falls into your wet finish. If it hasn't been the last layer of finish, this is no problem as it normally gets sanded down before applying the next layer of finish. But sometimes it happens on your last layer and you don't want to apply another one only because of this stupid single piece of dust...

This is when the "pimple-planer" can be helpful.

This is how you build your personal "pimple-planer":

First it needs to be said that your finish needs to be absolutely dry and hard. So if you try this method on a freshly applied finish, give it at least 2-3 days to dry.

You need a small piece of scrap wood (3cm x 1,5cm, about 12-16mm strong) and sand down all the edges a little. Cut out a piece of sandpaper with very fine grit (600) to the size of the piece of wood (a tiny bit smaller, actually).

Use glue very sparringly on the back of the sandpaper to fix it on to the wooden block.

Take some clear adhesive tape and accurately bandage the outer parts of the block with one layer. The final "pimple planer" should then look like this:



The tape's thickness should prevent the sandpaper from actually touching the surface if you move this sanding block over a flat surface without applying pressure. But pimples looking out of the surface should get sanded down. In any case you need to try this on a surface like a CD cover. If you get scratches, you did something wrong or you will at least need another layer of tape.

With this little device you can now carefully move over your pimple and sand it down until you can't feel any difference to the remaining surface of the finish. Move the planer across the pimple, so the pimple only goes through the middle area, never touching the tape.

Remove the dust often. Don't use pressure! avoid the sand paper to get "hurt". Take it easy! Sometimes you will even have to build a second one when the first is "used up". It is only at the end when you might need to apply a little pressure.

When the pimple is "flat", do a thorough polishing job. I am using abrasive polish wax for this before applying pure wax, but this is for boards with the lines applied *under* the finish.

To make this clear: Never use abrasive wax with the Mayday boards, as you might polish away the lines. Pure carnauba will have to do.

Keep on flickin'!
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Steven Packard
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Brilliant! I really needed this information.

Now I need to get liquored up to give myself the courage to try this out.
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Chuck Meeks
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I was going to use a very small piece of sandpaper glued to the end of a pencil eraser. And by small I mean about half the width of the eraser. This will allow a circular motion to the sanding and a good degree of control if you take it slow and easy. Using this method I should be able to just hit the speck on the surface and greatly minimize sanding the surrounding surface. Then polish it up with some non-abrasive carnauba wax.
 
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Wolfgang Zelller
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WhiteKnight85 wrote:
Now I need to get liquored up to give myself the courage to try this out.

And once more it is only the distance that keeps me from joining you...
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Wolfgang Zelller
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Komodo wrote:
I was going to use a very small piece of sandpaper glued to the end of a pencil eraser. And by small I mean about half the width of the eraser. This will allow a circular motion to the sanding and a good degree of control if you take it slow and easy.

Been there, tried that, took the lesson and did another layer of finish afterwards.devil

Well, it might work, but depending on the density of the pimple compared to the density of the finish you might still sand away more of the finish around the dirt piece. With my method this is nearly impossible as it is only the pimple that gets in contact with the sandpaper.
 
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Chuck Meeks
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It is a pretty small piece of sawdust lodged under the finish. I might go to an even smaller size of sandpaper... maybe 1/4 eraser sized. I just want to take off most of it and not touch the finish. I may just end up using your method after a quick trial if this doesn't work.
 
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Chuck Meeks
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As a side note to your technique, people should make sure that the non-sticky side of the tape contacting the surface of the board needs to stay VERY CLEAN or you will get little abrasion marks from dust or dirt that may be on it. They will probably come out with a good waxing but still... be careful.
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Wolfgang Zelller
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Komodo wrote:
As a side note to your technique, people should make sure that the non-sticky side of the tape contacting the surface of the board needs to stay VERY CLEAN or you will get little abrasion marks from dust or dirt that may be on it. They will probably come out with a good waxing but still... be careful.

That's correct and very good advice. It was what I actually meant with removing the dust very often and avoiding pressure, but this is much more explicit. Thanks.
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Chuck Meeks
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I have a laquer question for you. Can you somehow reactivate lightly scratched lacquer with a solvent or just put a thin coat of lacquer over the area if you abrade a small section of the surface or do you need to coat the entire surface again? I know how to do staining and such but not sure about lacquer. Thanks!
 
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Wolfgang Zelller
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Komodo wrote:
I have a laquer question for you. Can you somehow reactivate lightly scratched lacquer with a solvent

I don't think a solvent will help.

This is what I would do: Your best bet as long as the scratches are only slight, is abrasive car polish. There are several kinds on offer depending on how "old" the lacquer of your car is. For very old "rough" lacquers these polishes contain more and bigger sanding particles. The wax included there also "mixes" with the removed lacquer particles and some brands can "fill" small scratches that way.

So if you got a Mayday board and your scratches aren't in the area of the lines, you might try applying that and polishing the scratched area only. Afterwards carefully apply pure wax on the hole surface.
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Chuck Meeks
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You know, every time I look at your avatar I see the evil clown from Stephen King's "It" for a second. It creeps me out!
 
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Wolfgang Zelller
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Komodo wrote:
You know, every time I look at your avatar I see the evil clown from Stephen King's "It" for a second. It creeps me out!

Somebody else mentioned this as well some time ago.

Well, if this pic is evoking such negative emotional reactions, I guess I might need a change...

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