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Subject: Going to assemble a nice copy - anyone want to give me some good/bad pointers? rss

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Derek Anderson
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Hey guys... I've messed about a bit with this game, using some cheap prints, and decided it was worth my time to construct a good playable version. I own my own commercial art studio, so we have all of the printing equipment for me to do this 'right'...

I was thinking of putting the counters onto wooden blocks, and to increase the size of the map prints. I can print up to 17" x 22" cardstock prints, so enlarging this isn't an issue... But I could also just print the counters onto heavy stock board and cut them like normal cardboard tokens (like ASL, etc.).

Anyone here have anything they can tell me about their experience in doing this game - positive and negative comments about certain things are what I am looking for. I have read a lot of stuff here about it, and would like to hear more. I saw the ones on the scrabble tiles, and that looked sweet, although the unit stacking is an issue, but not if the map was 2x larger, etc. I would use colored wooden blocks though.

D.
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Andrew Tullsen
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Like I tell everyone - I like labels on chipboard.
Nice, clean, fast, easy, simple.

Of course, I would gladly trade my chipboard mounted set for a wood mounted set. I just don't feel the need to mount them on wood.

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Derek Anderson
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I think the wood would be an issue if the map isn't enlarged, but by making it bigger to give more room, I think the wood would 'feel' better, like it would be a bit nicer looking to play, etc.

I will most likely experiment around a bit with a few different methods and go from there. I saw someone use foamboard, but I don't think that would be as good, it does 'look' nice, but it wouldn't feel good to me I don't think.

D.
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I'm the foamboard guy and I did it because it was cheap and easy. The result is flexible chits that I have an easier time picking up off the plexi with my chewed-down fingernails. It's not likely going to please everyone, but I have to admit I've grown to like it better than the rigid chits in my other games.

To each his own. As cheap as it is give it a try!

S.


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Derek Anderson
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Hey there Foamboard Guy.

Your pieces look really nice in the images, I just have concerns about the long term use of them. I know foam board is light and has a tendency to squish or ding over time with use.

I think the main reason I am not in favor of it for me, is because of my current experience with it, so I'll share it with you so you can see where I am coming from.

I have a big family, we have 4 boys, three of which are into gaming (the youngest is too young), because the family is so large, we built a 10' long dining room table, and it is slotted (like there are 1/2" gaps between the 'planks').

Because of this, it is fine for meals and eating, but gaming is a problem as things fall through to the floor, so I bought some large foamboard sheets and put them down and we game on those. It is cheap and works great, but after several uses, the boards start to get dented, bent, etc.

So that is what is stuck in my mind with using foamboard.

I think I will most likely make a few prototype pieces on foamboard, and see how they feel, it would certainly be cheaper than buying the wooden blocks.

D.
 
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Andrew Tullsen
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One comment on foam board.



I built one game with foamcore. I found out that you had to have a really sharp blade to ensure no snags occurred and messed up the piece. Plus, the knife seemed to slip around much more than my usual chipboard.
 
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James
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You could use cork.
 
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Derek Anderson
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Cork might not be a bad idea, but would the sticker paper stick to it and hold? Cork is flexible, right? Like the sheets would bend and maybe cause the stickers to peel?

Nice photo by the way.

D.
 
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Hang on -- I'm not foamboard like you mount photos on, I'm flexible foam from Creatology. It's a spongy foam sheet and has one side pre-adhesived. That's why it's so easy. $1 per sheet that backs about a page and a half of V&V chits.

The stiff foamboard will indeed ding and dent. The spongy-foam I use will bounce back, at least it does so far though it may become more rigid with age. With cheap paper inkjet prints stuck to it I have pieces that bend, have a bit of weight so a breeze won't blow them, and don't dent or tear. You can also cut with ease with plain scissors so your boys can throw in on the effort. My ten-year-old boy helped with a bit of the cutting on mine.

I don't pretend it's a deluxe solution -- it's cheap. It looks nice though. Since most of the chits in this game are duplicates pitching one when it gets beat (or lost in the table) isn't a crisis. If I need more Germans I'll just print another sheet for about eighty cents.

S.


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Andrew Tullsen
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Just to give you a bit of an idea of my label/chipboard costs.

I buy my stuff in bulk, so I pay 10 cents for the label sheet, 10 cents for the chipboard sheet, and another 25 cents to print it. Total: 45 cents per sheet.
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How easy is it to cut the chipboard? This is the 2mm stuff they sell at Amazon?

S.


 
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Derek Anderson
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OHH!! I know what kind of foamboard you are talking about now, that makes sense now.

How is it with flexing though, I am afraid if whatever I put the stickers onto bends too much, the stickers will start to come loose?


 
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I'm sticking plain paper onto it so I can't answer that. I've never bent one over on itself to see what would happen, but they don't seem to tear or lose their edge in normal usage.

S.


 
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Derek Anderson
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Thanks for all the tips guys, I'm going to look into a few different things this week and see what I can come up with.

I'm excited because one of my boys is very interested in playing this game with me and that is something I look forward to.

D.
 
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Barry Doyle
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I use comic or magazine backing boards for my counters, and print on label sheets. They're not as thick as chipboard, but are a bit easier to cut.

I've found it easier to use comic backing boards, and mount half the label sheet to the board, or cut the mag boards in half before mounting. Trying to mount the full sheet is a bit tricky.

I also ordered custom laser-cut wooden squares from Litko-Aero for a deluxe set, but I've yet to put it together.
 
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Andrew Tullsen
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Sagrilarus wrote:

How easy is it to cut the chipboard? This is the 2mm stuff they sell at Amazon?

S.


http://www.dickblick.com/products/all-purpose-chipboard/#des...

I use the single ply stuff- .05".

I can cut it with a single rotary pass.
 
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Derek Anderson
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The comic boards are a good idea that I might also look into... Having custom ones cut at Litko would be a good idea too... I'd have to see what kind of cost is involved there. I also can order colored wood blocks like the ones that GMT uses. That was my first though.

D.
 
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Derek Anderson
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What size are the counters when printed at 100% size?

D.
 
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Cardboard Carnage wrote:
What size are the counters when printed at 100% size?

D.


3/4" and 7/8"
 
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René Christensen
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In cm?
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Slotracer wrote:
In cm?

1.9cm and 2.2cm
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Maps - I printed onto A3, so this grows the hexes nicely. Used 280gm satin which gives a very resistent and smooth coating.

Counters - print onto premium bright white self adhesive labels, which makes the image bright and sharp, then apply to artists board (thick cardboard), cut and trim corners.

Rules - print out onto A3 in colour, so that rules can fold down into a standard sized rulebook with stapled centre.

Charts - print off to A3 and A4 (for choice) and laminated them.
 
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trade me something for mine.
 
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Robert Wilson
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BK has a really nice V&V set made up
 
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Derek Anderson
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What did you make them with? Are there any photos? I read your comment field, what didn't you enjoy about the game?

D.
 
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