Chris Keates
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Long story short, I played Roborally for the first time a week ago and had an absolute BLAST. Me and my friends (4 of us total) played well into the night, trying out all the different maps the 3rd edition had to offer.

I was able to acquire a sealed copy of the Armed and Dangerous expansion, but before I bust it open, I have a few questions:

1- Is A&D worth keeping? It sounds like the one expansion worth having, but I don't know how much the 3rd edition borrows from it...

2- I WANT EVERYTHING THAT WOULD MAKE THIS GAME FUN

...but seriously, I see Roborally sticking around in my collection, so I need to know where I should go from here. Should I...

- Get an earlier edition of the base game for the pewter/metal minis? Are there any other elements/maps from the original/2nd edition I'm missing?

- Get the other expansions? Do they (Radioactive, Crash & Burn, Grand Prix) have any essential/really cool elements?

sorry for sounding like such a newbie...
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I don't think much of A&D was rolled into third edition, if anything. I'm not sure if the cards are compatible, size-wise and in terms of back design. The primary elements of A&D are the new map boards (with some new elements) and the new option cards.

The boards are a mixed bag, with a couple feeling extremely different (YMMV on whether that's good or bad). The options are very cool, but quite a bit more complicated in play. The problem with this is that RoboRally can be less fun when the playtime extends itself and complex options slow things down.

The design style of 1st/2nd edition is less refined, so be prepared for lots of simple cardboard chits.
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A&D will merge almost perfectly with the new Avalon Hill version. The Avalon Hill version of RR is _almost_ exactly like the original RR, and doesn't add the A&D components. It does add a few new boards that you can't get any other way.

The 1st and 2nd Ed pewter robots are much better (even unpainted) than the new robots, because they're more visually distinctive.

C&B and Grand Prix are both great. If you like the game enough to spend the $$ for them, I think it's well worth it. Pick up a 2nd printing before that tho - less $$ for about the same # of additional boards you don't have already.

I don't like Radioactive, tho some really do. Great for mega option games if you are into that.

Welcome :-)
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You can use the boards and some of the tokens for your 3rd ed set ,but not much else for they changed the graphic on the option cards for the 3rd ed. I guess you could mix them together ,but people might get a hint of what they are going to draw.
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You can either give me a copy of the Armed and Dangerous expansion - a great idea.

Or...

I have a copy of the second edition Roborally for sale you can buy.

Problems solved!
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You could always sleeve the option cards (with opaque-backed sleeves) if you want to mix them. I think A&D is the most desirable of the expansions, because they all have new boards, but only A&D has new options.
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artfuldodge2 wrote:
You can either give me a copy of the Armed and Dangerous expansion - a great idea.

Or...

I have a copy of the second edition Roborally for sale you can buy.

Problems solved!


Check your geekmail
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themothman421 wrote:
Long story short, I played Roborally for the first time a week ago and had an absolute BLAST. Me and my friends (4 of us total) played well into the night, trying out all the different maps the 3rd edition had to offer.

Welcome to the club! I'm always happy to hear about new people getting to know and love this game!

Quote:
1- Is A&D worth keeping? It sounds like the one expansion worth having, but I don't know how much the 3rd edition borrows from it...

Oh, yes! A&D is the single best expansion - it's the only one that adds new option cards, and it has six boards - more than any other expansion.

There are only two things the 3rd edition borrows from it: two of the options - the Dual Processor, and the Crab Legs.

Yes, the backs of the option cards are different, but so what? You can mix them together freely (though you might want to take out the "extra" Crab Legs and Dual Processor). The rulebook included in A&D gives more complete detailed rules about the options so as to avoid some of the ambiguity in the Hasbrolon Hill edition.

Quote:
2- I WANT EVERYTHING THAT WOULD MAKE THIS GAME FUN

First, you might want to use the virtual rules, which were in the earlier editions, and you can find them described in detail on this site. This makes for fairer and faster games.

Quote:
...but seriously, I see Roborally sticking around in my collection, so I need to know where I should go from here. Should I...

- Get an earlier edition of the base game for the pewter/metal minis? Are there any other elements/maps from the original/2nd edition I'm missing?

For the minis, probably not. The metal minis are better, IMO, but not necessary. Four of the six original boards are in the 3rd edition, but are somewhat different than they were originally. The new Cross is easier than the old Cross, one wall was removed from Exchange, and a repair site was added to Maelstrom. The only other functional difference is the change from the Double Wrenches to the Wrench & Hammer spaces. All the earlier edition boards used Double Wrenches instead of Wrench&Hammer. At a Double Wrench, you have a choice: *either* repair 2 points of damage, or draw an option.

Also the board graphics on the older boards are different, but that shouldn't cause a problem in play.

The original/2nd edition includes 2 boards you won't have: Pit Maze, and Cannery Row. Hard ones. Cannery Row includes Crushers - a board element that isn't in the 3rd ed. But a few of the boards in A&D do have crushers. The original/2nd edition also includes two options that you don't have: the Turret (chose which direction your robot's main laser faces each turn, instead of always facing forward), and Shield (choose one side each turn to be shielded - you take one less point of damage each phase you're hit from that side). The option "Shield" is not to be confused with "Power Down Shield".

Quote:
- Get the other expansions? Do they (Radioactive, Crash & Burn, Grand Prix) have any essential/really cool elements?

C&B is just two boards that introduce new elements: Flamers (a new way to damage robots), Oil Slicks (slide across), and Portals (enter here, come out there).
GP includes three boards and introduces some new elements: Repulsor Fields (walls that you bounce off of), Trap Doors (pits that are sometimes open and sometimes closed), and Chop Shops (gain, reload, or exchange options, but no repair or archive)
Radioactive includes three boards and introduces some new elements: Radiation (damages robots a little bit, slowly), Radioactive Waste (damages robots quickly, and *mutates* them!), and One-Way Walls (move/shoot though it from one side but not the other)

As others have said, Radioactive is generally considered not as good as the other expansions. IMO, it's still good, and fun to play with, but it creates a less "serious" game - more randomness, more luck.

My advice is, get to know the stuff you have (3rd Ed, A&D) well, before deciding what other stuff to get. Also, you might want to look at the discussion threads here for more info about the earlier edition and expansions. All your questions are answered in the fora!
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i second all said above...

and want to add that de back of the options decks is suppossed to differ. Even between 2nd edition base game and A&D (the couple as they were designed to be coupled) the decks have different backs.

Getting a 2nd edition would be advisable for more and better bots and for a deck of movement cards WITH THE CONTENT ALSO IN THE CORNERS (like normal playing cards)...

So with these you case examine your cards in a normal hand of cards.

The temptation with a lot of the exansion is to create a monster board.
DOn't DO that!!! stick to your 1 or 2 boardlayouts...
You will loose interaction on a big board, and it turns out to a dull Monaco Formule1 GP with one long chain of bots running towards the next flag without seeing each other.

I play with up to 12-14 players on a 1 or 2 board layout.

Also make sure your flags should not form a circle, but a back and forth going track...

better so 4 2 1 3


than

1 2



3 4

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I saw a site a while back and printed out a few maps and they play just the same, but new stuff like magnets, lava, trap doors that open up if too much weight is on them, etc. You could also make your own. A&D is the best expansion because of the special abilities, but don't worry, it is just as fun w/o them, and less rulesy. The pewter minis are much nicer than plastic, but they still work in play - just a "cool-looking" factor there.
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JeVo wrote:


The temptation with a lot of the exansion is to create a monster board.
DOn't DO that!!! stick to your 1 or 2 boardlayouts...
You will loose interaction on a big board, and it turns out to a dull Monaco Formule1 GP with one long chain of bots running towards the next flag without seeing each other.


Yep, I have done that with 8 boards laid out in a 4x2 grid. My brother and I never finished that game. It only took 8 hours or so.

Though the Grand Prix expansion is a good 3 board grid for alot of players.
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http://tartarus.org/gareth/roborally/boards/all

there's the nice list of downloadable boards, some player made.

Short ciruit has always been the most fun for me - I usually add it to all games I play,
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It would take me an hour to intersperse quotes from the above. If you are egotistical or paranoid, assume I am answering you.

1) The virtual robots are a silly theme breaker added over Richard Garfield's objection. If you place the first flag properly, the start is as fair as drawing nine cards. Some of the examples boards in the book are quite bad on this point.

2) If you have any genuine concern over fairness, burn the option cards. Don't throw them in the trash; someone might "rescue" them. If you are the kind of player who gets all excited drawing the Ice Cream Float, then the option cards add fun. They don't add any depth or interesting choices to the game.

3) Use a single board. If you want a long game, place all eight flags on one board.

4) The only real difference in the art is conveyors. It's easier to tell fast from slow with the new edition, but once you've played the old boards awhile, you get to know them.

5) Painted or custom robots. This game needs good minis.
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I have to say that I would be of the opinion that the new plastic minis are of a better quality and look cooler than the metal ones.
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JeVo wrote:
i second all said above...

The temptation with a lot of the exansion is to create a monster board.
DOn't DO that!!! stick to your 1 or 2 boardlayouts...
You will loose interaction on a big board, and it turns out to a dull Monaco Formule1 GP with one long chain of bots running towards the next flag without seeing each other.


...and adds a lot of "in the back" shooting but no chance for retaliation without giving up the lead. Having more than 2 boards also benefits the "big jet jump" option card. Having the boards very small and in the back and forth flag placement, benefits whomever places "The Big One" and a very opportune time, Kablooey!
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themothman421 wrote:
I was able to acquire a sealed copy of the Armed and Dangerous expansion

How the…!?

themothman421 wrote:
1- Is A&D worth keeping?

YES OF CO...I mean no. No, it's not worth it at all. Send it to me, instead, I'll dispose of it for you.

Seriously, of course keep it. It's unique, and you don't know how lucky you were to get a sealed copy. A&D adds very very strange stuff and causes many strange rule holes, but as long as you're up to it, it's a great expansion. It unbalances the game immensely, but also makes it a lot of more fun.

themothman421 wrote:
- Get the other expansions? Do they (Radioactive, Crash & Burn, Grand Prix) have any essential/really cool elements?


Skip Radioactive; it adds some silly stuff that makes no one happy. Crash and Burn and Grand Prix though, they're just boards, but grab'em if you can.
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Barticus88 wrote:


3) Use a single board. If you want a long game, place all eight flags on one board.


Oh I like that idea. *yoink* there I stole it. The closest I have done is place 3 flags on Maelstrom with 4 players.
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JeVo wrote:
and want to add that de back of the options decks is suppossed to differ. Even between 2nd edition base game and A&D (the couple as they were designed to be coupled) the decks have different backs.

That's not true. The 1st/2nd edition options have the same back as the options in A&D. Not that it matters.

Quote:
The temptation with a lot of the exansion is to create a monster board.
DOn't DO that!!! stick to your 1 or 2 boardlayouts...
You will loose interaction on a big board, and it turns out to a dull Monaco Formule1 GP with one long chain of bots running towards the next flag without seeing each other.

There's nothing wrong with monster boards. There's plenty of interaction if you make sure the track criss-crosses. I've played 2x4, 3x3, 6 boards that wrap around like a cube, etc. Of course, such games will take longer, but so what if you're having fun?

Quote:
I play with up to 12-14 players on a 1 or 2 board layout.

You can't really do this unless you have more than one deck (or a custom made larger deck). And if you use multiple decks, you have to have some means of resolving the Priority numbers when they're the same. Yes, it won't matter very often, but the first time it does, you'll wish you had figured out how to deal with it in advance.
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with 12 - 14 players i play with two decks (i got three from 2nd edition, german edition and new AH edtion.) One deck has green arrows, the other has colorfull arrows. The deal is this round green is trump, the next round the colors are trump, so in the occasional occurence that the same numbers turn up at the same time the ruling is clear.

What I some times do is creating a central checnkpoint and a star configuration...
the order of touching checkpints will be 1-2-1-3-1-4-1-5-1-6.
It is always a happy get together at the central checkpoint.

JeVo.
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JeVo wrote:
the order of touching checkpints will be 1-2-1-3-1-4-1-5-1-6.
It is always a happy get together at the central checkpoint.

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JeVo wrote:
with 12 - 14 players i play with two decks (i got three from 2nd edition, german edition and new AH edtion.) One deck has green arrows, the other has colorfull arrows. The deal is this round green is trump, the next round the colors are trump, so in the occasional occurence that the same numbers turn up at the same time the ruling is clear.

That's fine, but I would recommend that one set always trumps the other. Consider the colors to have +1 priority numbers: 11, 21, 31, 41, ...

Quote:
What I some times do is creating a central checnkpoint and a star configuration...
the order of touching checkpints will be 1-2-1-3-1-4-1-5-1-6.
It is always a happy get together at the central checkpoint.

JeVo.

Nice! I don think I've ever tried that, which is rather surprising considering how many games I've played.
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Phil Fleischmann wrote:
That's not true. The 1st/2nd edition options have the same back as the options in A&D. Not that it matters.


The design is the same, but differences in ink colour make me able to tell from card back alone whether the top card of the option stack is from A&D or the base set. Not that that's entirely likely to affect decisions (but if this knowledge isn't likely to affect decisions there's no real problem mixing option cards from new-edition base game and old-edition A&D - except the two cards that get duplicated as a result).


If people were really concerned about knowing whether the next card is A&D or base, they could use opaque sleeves, or draw from the bottom of the deck a la Fury of Dracula, or roll a die when drawing an option and take the Nth card from the top of the deck, where N is the die roll.
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What to do? Punch it out, get some drinks and junk food, invite your friends and just start playing through the night.

Or just send the box sealed to Germany so I can use it here at home.

Because I had to collect scans of A&D to build it on my own and still some boards are missing.

Cheers
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