Neil Edmonds
United States
Washington
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I've been experimenting with Krylon spray products to see if it will bend them back into shape and protect the tiles from shuffling wear. I got the idea when someone in the Castle Ravenloft forum complained about scratches on their dungeon tiles.

I wouldn't mind having an extra set around to experiment on or at least a few cards to replace the ones that didn't turn out well for me with my latest tests.

You can geek mail me if you're interested and we can set something up. I live in the U.S.A.
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Neil Edmonds
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Here's a copy of my latest work. Notice the shine on the middle tiles when the flash went off.

 


The tiles are much straighter thanks to the acrylic spray. They work well under a standard overhead dining room light. The finish is smooth and pleasant to handle. I just have to make sure the tiles will stack together over time without sticking to each other.

I've already sacrificed two copies of this game while experimenting so WOTC's gotten their money out of me by selling me three copies of the same game.
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Neil Edmonds
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I got geek mail about the method I used. I wanted to verify the tiles don't stick to each other by leaving them undisturbed for several weeks before suggesting everyone try this. Here's the method I used for those of you who want to try this at home:

It takes about 4 cans of 11 ounce Krylon Crystal Clear to do this project. At $7.50 a piece that's $30. It's more if you screw up a tile and have to buy a new copy of Betrayal. shake

1.) Flatten the tiles under heavy books first for 48 hours.
2.) Get a cardboard box and some newspaper. I line the box with newspaper and stand the tiles up on their edges. Make sure they are flush with the back of the box because the spray mist will wrap around the edges and dull a shiny coat.
3.) Read the directions on the can and follow them. Spray the tiles lightly (no drips). I generally start with the backs and do 3-4 passes waiting 5 minutes between each pass. I lay the tiles flat while they're drying.
4.) Let tiles dry for 16 hours. After the 2 hour mark it's okay to stand the tiles on their edge and lean them against another surface if you're concerned that overspray / dripping from the tile will glue it to your workbench.
5.) Once the tiles are dry it's okay to bend them straight. Repeat steps 3-4 for the fronts of the tiles.
6.) Check the tiles in another day or two. Redo any that don't have a smooth finish or are still warping. The acrylic holds the tile in place.

Step 6 is probably the hardest step of all. It's easy to start obsessing about making all the tiles exactly alike (same finish and weight) and that means more cans of spray. If you're the OCD type then budget an additional 2 cans of spray to bring the total to 6 cans.

I've found the last 15% of a can to be difficult to work with. When a can starts getting low I use them to start a new tile and then finish off with a fuller can of spray.

My results have been excellent so far. There's the occasional tiny bubble or spec of dust in the finish that you can't really control for. If you're the sort of person that feels anything less than 99.9% perfect isn't good enough then don't start this project because you'll find something to disappoint you. Or you could just keep buying copies of Betrayal until you get every tile right. yuk


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Neil Edmonds
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One other thing I forgot to mention. This project is a lot easier with tiles that start off perfectly flat. The warped tiles are curved so the spray likes to run off the high points. This leads to the tiles gluing themselves to your workbench. This is why it's important to spray lightly and do it in multiple passes.

Some of my tiles were perfectly flat and they were a lot easier to work with. They also yielded my best finishes.
 
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