I went to BGG and I all got was this Overtext
When I began looking up this game to purchase I realized that there was very little strategy on the different races in the game. Not really a problem, but something that I thought I could remedy, as my friends and I are quickly finding this to be one of our favorite games.
While I am not the greatest tactician out there, and I have not played hundreds of games, I have spent some time looking at the races, their strengths and their weaknesses.
Any questions or comments, feel free to let me know. I am by no means the be-all authority on this game, and other combos or strategy that others have I would love to hear. Just please be gentle, I bruise easily
Dark Goblin: Overall
Dark Goblins hate your opponents. They really do. Nearly every card that comes into play for the Dark Goblins will be driving your opponent crazy. But make no mistake, these Goblins are not simple and easy to use. Of all the races out there, the Dark Goblins require you to be able to assess your opponents armies and figure out the value of their units. A commander who does this will be successful with the Dark Goblins.
-Messing with your Opponents
Via a few destroy cards and a lot of trap cards the Dark Goblins will mess your opponents up. It’s not uncommon for your opponents to waste multiple turns, cards and/or activations to deal with your ever growing Dark Goblin Army. Not only that, but Zombie Mutation means that a card that’s dead, won’t stay dead for long.
While getting advantages from mutating is not the Dark Goblins strong point (that goes to the Meca’s), they are the only race with Zombie Mutation, and believe me, that’s HUGE. When the discard pile gets shuffled back into the deck the first time, you will cry a little inside. And although you pay a little extra for it (3, compared to the average 2) you don’t have to use a card from your hand (which means you kinda break even), plus you can pick from a much larger group of cards. This ability is really what sets the Dark Goblins apart.
Lets just put this up front, the Dark Gobbos are not good at card draw. They have only 1 Level 1 card that gives you card draw (and even that isn’t that great) and a handful of Level 2’s with any sort of draw at all. While the Dark Goblins can get card advantage, it won’t be by adding cards to your hand.
Dark Goblins Level 1's are all-around solid, with Thief being the notable exception. With 4 Level 1's that mutate the Dark Goblins are able to take advantage of their innate ability, Zombie Mutation.
Dark Goblin Thief
When Dark Goblin Thief comes into play, choose an opponent. He must reveal the next 3 cards from the draw pile and take one. You take the remaining 2 cards.
-Just to be clear, this is the only Level 1 Dark Goblin that nets you any cards at all, and he still isn’t all that good. While taking 2 and giving your opponent 1 isn’t a horrible deal, you are taking the 2 that are left over! That means either A) You just gave him a card he needs and can use, or B) He took the best card away from you. Either way, it’s bad news for you.
Dark Goblin Medic
A: Trap 1(+1) “Level 1” card
-Dark Goblin Medic is unexciting, but solid. While 2 “Level 1’s” may be unassuming, when your opponents are sitting on Goban Conjurer’s you’ll be glad you added this guy to your army.
Dark Goblin Assassin
When the Dark Goblin Assassin comes into play, choose 1 “Level 1” or “Level 2) FREE card then destroy it.
-A card that seems straight out of the Fire Goblin Handbook, this guy is quite the deal at level 1. He will often destroy a guy of higher level, then sit around waiting to become a zombie.
Dark Goblin Avenger
When Dark Goblin Avenger mutates, trap 2 “Level 1” or “Level 2” cards.
-Dark Goblin Avenger seems slow when you put him into play next to guys like the Assassin and the Necromancer. But when you mutate him into a Dark Goblin Necromancer, or a Fire Goblin Sniper, you’ll know why your opponents should fear him. Because while he is slow he can create some incredibly broken turns.
Dark Goblin Necromancer
When the Dark Goblin Necromancer comes into play, trap 1(+1) “Level 1” or “Level 2” cards.
-What’s not to like? A very relevant ability when coming into play, the best mutation in the game, and you can do it twice! If you are playing as Dark Goblins, it’s for cards like this.
I think no races level 2 shines quite like the Dark Goblins. There is no "bad" card amongst the group, with Trsck, Kalim and Kokoshomushu rising as the best 3. Also of note, the Dark Goblins have a lower-than-average mutates at level 2, with only 3 of the 7 being able to mutate.
Each time a card is trapped, you may draw 1 card.
-If you are playing heavy Dark Goblins, Kao is almost a requirement. Easily the best of the 3 “draw card” Goblins (Walror of the Fire is too hard to protect, get and play. And Meka Goblin scout requires a discard), Kao can easily be a powerhouse. What’s nice is that he is also great if you have an opponent who is playing Dark Goblins as well, but be warned. If they are, he will be a prime trapping target.
When Kataclysm comes into play, every player must discard 2 cards from his hand. Take an extra turn after this one.
-The more players you have, the better Kataclysm will become. The other thing about Kataclysm is that he gets better the fewer cards your opponent has. If you are playing 3 guys who each have 3 cards in hand, then Kataclysm will certainly be a beating. Finally, he combos well into Kokoshomushu.
If Koko comes into play as the result of a mutation, discard your whole hand then draw 5 cards. A: The player of your choice must discard 2 cards from his hand.
-Koko might as well just say “When mutated into play, draw 5 cards.” Rarely will you see anyone lay Koko with more than 1 card left in hand. Also, as someone who can get caught undervaluing discard, even I can see that a repeatable ability that forces an opponent to discard 2 is good.
When Trsck comes into play, choose a FREE card and destroy it. Then draw a number of cards equal to the Level of the destroyed card.
-I won’t say much about Trsck, just this: Best card in the game. Oh, and if you use it on a level 1, I will find you and punch you.
Mutate: 3 (Zombie)
When Duwal comes into play, trap 1 (+1) card.
-Poor Duwal, he’s forced to sit next to the rest of the Dark Goblin level 2’s. In another race he may be a great card, but not here. While not bad, he just isn’t as powerful as the other Level 2’s around. And while trapping a level 3 can be good, it’s A) Not that tough to Destroy Level 3’s. There are far fewer of them than any other level, and thus they are usually much easier to destroy and B) There are a number of Level 1 Dark Goblins that already affect Level 1 and 2’s. That being said, in a heavy Dark Goblin build with Kao, he could be used for cards, and you wouldn’t be unhappy about it.
A: Choose 1 FREE card then destroy it. If you have the Advantage Token, you may also draw 1 card.
-The Dark Goblins have no way to get the advantage token, so to get full value you will need the help of another race (probably the Meca’s). That being said, why is he not a Fire Goblin? And personally, as much as I like Ultimate, he always seems to come up short. To really get full value, he’s best when Dawn is in play. When that’s the case, he’s close to a repeat use Trsck.
A: Trap 1(+1) card.
-I love Kalim, although I’ll admit part of that is due to the art. The other part is because when behind his skill is quite good. You will always be happy to activate his ability when Kao is in play, as he screws your opponent and lets you draw 2 cards, which is nothing to sneeze at.
With such solid Level 1's and 2's, something had to give. That something is Level 3.
Overall: During his turn, the player with the Advantage Token may spend his 2 Activation Tokens to draw 5 cards instead of 3.
-Just to clarify, the Dark Goblins have no way to get the Advantage Token on their own. This does limit his usefulness. The main issue is that if you do lose the Advantage Token after playing Miguma, it can be tough for you to get it back if you are heavily Dark Goblins. In my sessions, I have gotten more use out of an opponent’s Miguma then they have.
When Trix comes into play the player(s) with the lowest # of victory points draw 2 cards.
-Trix is better here than in most armies due to the Dark Goblins low level of card draw. Combine that with the fact that the Dark Goblins generally want to play slightly behind (due to cards like Trsck, Kalim, etc being better when behind) and you can gain some extra value out of Trix. Still not great, but better than the equivalent in other armies.
Overall: If a player has more than 7 cards in his hand at the end of his turn, he must discard as many as necessary to have only 7.
-Ugh, why 7? 7 is simply too many. Even when playing a heavy draw race, rarely do I have more than 7 cards in hand for more than a turn or 2. And once army engines get going, most people hover in the 4-6 range. If this was a lower number (5 comes to mind) he would be better. But as is, it’s simply too many. In fact, someone who activates a Mecha-Goblin Meow when behind only has to discard 1 card! That’s hardly a deal at all!
Dark Goblins are a very powerful army, with strong level 1’s and 2’s. Very little card advantage though means that a smart player will have you struggling to keep your army updating. And always remember a good Dark Goblin player must always keep his thumb on the pulse of his opponents army.
Trsck, Kalim and Dark Goblin Necromancer
-Trsck is a beating of pure card advantage. Others may disagree about Kalim and Dark Goblin Necromancer, but my thoughts on them are this: I’m a sucker for the repeat advantage the Kalim gives you. He can repeatedly be used to constantly stop your opponents best cards from being in play. And Dark Goblin Necromancer, in my book, gains bonus points for the surprise factor. If you play him from you hand into an open spot in the row, he becomes incredibly good. I should mention that the Dark Goblins are incredibly solid all around, and preference will play heavily into what is the best card.
Dark Goblin Thief, Higuma and The Edge
-Thief gives your opponent the best card in a choice of 3. The Edge will spend much of your game sitting there, losing his edge, while you struggle to activate and use Miguma before you opponents either A) Take the Advantage Token from you or B) Kill him.
- Last edited Tue Mar 8, 2011 6:48 pm (Total Number of Edits: 1)
- Posted Tue Mar 8, 2011 5:32 pm
Hello good analysis job !
In french, Miguma is Higuma, are you sure about the card name ?
As I already mentioned it, I made a board dedicated to GOSU in french only for now, but I started to translate some "master pieces" documents in english with the help of board community (cards rulings, fuller FAQ than the official one, GOSU lexicon...)
If you would like to share your analysis with our readers, feel free to join us and to "paste" your work there.
Obviously the english community isn't very important today, but I hope it will grow very soon !
In order to find the board, I suggest you to search gosulair in your favorite search engine...
Sorry if this post isn't allowed in the board rules (concerning advertising for other site...) and sorry for my poor english !
See you around or anywhere else !
I went to BGG and I all got was this Overtext
You are correct, it is Higuma. The lettering of it threw me off.
And thanks for the offer! I have actually found your website already (some playmats drew me there). I would be honored to post them in your forums. Once I get them all up I'll put them over there. Thanks!
Also, let me know if you need help translating anything. I don't read french, but I have Google translate, which can help me get the jist of the ideas. It's not perfect, but it's generally better than nothing.
Thanks for your offer and for your share.
Don't hesitate to PM me on gosulair if you want some advice on the game or the board.
This is a nice run through. Just felt like throwing in my two cents.
Trsck is the best card in the entire base set. I like Necromancer but am not a huge fan of Kalim. I would rather have Kokomushu any day. Koko let's you either cycle your hand away for 5 new cards or can actually draw you up to 5 from just a few cards (say you had Awn in play). Obviously all the trapping cards get way way better if you also have Kao, but without it Kalim doesn't usually do enough to justify my activation token. Plus the discard effect you mention on Koko if you almost have your opponent locked out with few cards in hand. Most of your other assessment I think is pretty reasonable depending on the board position. I don't think Thief is as bad as you do though. I dislike Medic a lot more (w/out Kao in play). Thief is sometimes a necessary evil so you can play Trsck or Duwal for free and unlike Medic you can still zombie him into another color to drop a new 2 you've just drawn.
A lot of the Dark cards are very situational but obviously zombie mutation can be a transformational ability. In general, I value the Darks without zombie much lower than those with it. If you are behind and get a couple of cards you can put a serious smack on your opponent by running Trsck into Duwal into Trsck (we've had it happen a lot).
My favorite thing with Dark is drafting a Necromancer fairly high especially if my opponent is going to start with the Advantage. Then try to pick up a Fire Goblin Sniper or Dark Goblin Assassin. They drop a level 1 and you use Necromancer to trap it. They discard two to play a new 1 and you use Assassin to kill it for free. They play another 1 and you pay the two to Sniper it away. They end up with almost no cards and a single 1. It is a hard board position to recover from. Granted, I am not saying this is possible every game, just laying out a situation you may come across and a way to exploit/avoid it.
Thanks for putting up this series.
- Last edited Tue Mar 8, 2011 11:21 pm (Total Number of Edits: 1)
- Posted Tue Mar 8, 2011 11:21 pm
Great series of posts very detailed.