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Subject: minis - painting and gluing rss

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Geekgirl123
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I've never bought a game with minis. Where do I start? Do I have to buy special paint? Do I have to use a primer? What colour of primer? Are there certain brands that are better? Is there a glue that you would recommend? Any tips for gluing?
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Frank Franco
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For glueing use super glue gel.
Do 1 bag at a time, leaving the dragon for last.
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Adam Rivas
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geekgirl123 wrote:
I've never bought a game with minis. Where do I start? Do I have to buy special paint? Do I have to use a primer? What colour of primer? Are there certain brands that are better? Is there a glue that you would recommend? Any tips for gluing?


This was my first mini game to-
I advise p3 formula glue.
Wash and file flash first
Glue second but maybe not all pieces - ie pieces that wil require painting that if u glue aren't accessible.
Before painting prime with grey as a beginner. Def do dragon last! It's a tough piece.
Message me for more info- we in the same boat buddy
Also this community is good for advice- post questions for help
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Phil Standen
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geekgirl123 wrote:
I've never bought a game with minis. Where do I start? Do I have to buy special paint? Do I have to use a primer? What colour of primer? Are there certain brands that are better? Is there a glue that you would recommend? Any tips for gluing?


There are lots of answers, here is one:

Games Workshop do a set of paints, brushes and glue that is a kind of starter set they aren't the cheapest, or the best but they will get you started:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Citadel-Hobby-Starter-Set/dp/B000XV3...

You can get apply with a brush primer, it is slow, You can get spray on primer, it is quick, I also find it gives a more even finish:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Citadel-Colour-Skull-Primer-Undercoa...

You can buy lots of different colour primers, however grey is probably them most versatile. The SDE minis are a little more stylised, so I have been priming them in white, so I have less work to make them bright.

Don't rush the gluing, make sure every joint will hold before you let go, and is set before you try and add another part.

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Bobby Warren
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The best glue to use is also cheaper than the P3 or Citadel glues. It's the Loctite Gel super glue that you can find at grocery stores and big box stores. Be sure to get the gel as it doesn't run and really does seem to dry faster, though that could just be my perception.

For paints, you could use the hobby acrylic paints, but I've always used the craft paints from the craft stores, such as Michael's and Hobby Lobby. You will want to get a primer. I prefer white because the colors come out brighter and the weaker colors, such as yellow and red, need to be painted on a white background. Others prefer black and gray. I've used the hobby primers, usually the armory primers. Some people have used Krylon. If you search online you will see people touting the merits of each.

Initially, I would buy a package of inexpensive brushes from the craft store. Get some of different sizes. If you stick with the painting then you can get more expensive brushes that will last longer, plus you will know what sizes will work better for you after experimenting some.

Make sure you seal the figures after painting them. I usually put on a thick coat or two of a cheap clear coat and then spray with a coat of Testor's Dulcote, which is not cheap. The cheap stuff gives you solid protection while the Testor's kills the shine.
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Adam Rivas
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I was wondering about clear coats. I want some pieces to shine (heroes)but other to retain a dark duality (like my dragon). I wasnt aware that there was a dull coat available out there. thanks for the info
 
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Richard Urich
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504Shadeaux wrote:
I was wondering about clear coats. I want some pieces to shine (heroes)but other to retain a dark duality (like my dragon). I wasnt aware that there was a dull coat available out there. thanks for the info


You can get a ton of different types from some manufacturers (hi-gloss, gloss, satin, matte, super matte, etc.), although there's no standard across manufacturers for what any of that means. Testors Dullcote is just the preferred brand of matte finish a lot of people use, probably because it's so hard to find a decent matte.

There's also brush-on versus spray cans. I prefer using brush-on sealers so I can control the effect on different surfaces of a single mini. Dullcote also has a different effect when applied directly to the painted surface versus being applied on top of a gloss sealer, so it's worth experimenting a bit to get a feel for the effects you can get.
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R Mayers
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Great information here. Thanks everyone
 
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Regi Bennett
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OK.. OK..

check it out.

This is my first time dealing with Assembling and Painting minis (always interested in painting my Ravenloft mini's, but never knew how)


so.. I learned that I HATE assembling and gluing mini's and there are like 5 billion in this game. I got this game 5 days ago, and I spent over 15 hours on assembling and painting.

all my pieces are assembled finally, and I have done the paint on about half. BTW.. the Dragon assembly is stupid, there was no way my pieces were going to sync right.. finally just glued all the legs on, and found a somewhat believable angle to glue the dragon on to the pedestal. (only piece that isn't perfect)

ASSEMBLY.
ok. do a bag at a time. don't spill em all out, else you will hate yourself trying to figure out where the parts go.. I didn't do this, and glad I didn't.

Next, aside from some glue bottle with a tiny funnel tip for accurate application, don't be afraid to have a sharp knife near by to widdle the plastic when its not pliant or fitting (had to do this on 4 heros). If this is your first time assembling minis leave the heros for last, the lessons and experience you gain from the rest will enable you to do the hero, they don't have as many easy lock parts.

PAINTING
WOW... first time doing this too.. and it I guess I care too much or something, but tonight I spent 4 hours painting 11 models. bleh.

I really enjoy the painting, but I have been working on this game for over 3 hours a night. half done, and still haven't played it yet. it better be awesome

Next get a starter kit, warhammer, that comes with paint, a brush, and minis you don't care about. I got to practice painting and mixing on 5 space marines, and the mini instructions taught me some valuable lessons I might otherwise not have figured out very quickly... like. gray primer is great, but for some colors you want a black under coat to make it pop more.. IE Chainmail/silver.. on gray primer is weak, over gloss black, the silver looks awesome.

so I...prime all the pieces after they are assembled. but I covered some in black before doing the silver armor to get much better look.

so.. assembling sux (dragon is impossible or close to)
Painting is ALOT of fun, but eats HOURS and HOURS if you are trying do your models to a level you don't mind showing them to other people =P
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Regi Bennett
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Geekgirl123
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Thanks for all the info!

Special thanks goes out to Regi for the photo.

What if I assemble them and then play with them and then paint them? Is that ok or should I paint them before playing with them?

I think I want to get a white primer for the heroes because I want bright colours on them. Should I use black primer for the rest? I think you are right Regi. This game better be worth it.
 
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Richard Urich
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geekgirl123 wrote:
Thanks for all the info!

Special thanks goes out to Regi for the photo.

What if I assemble them and then play with them and then paint them? Is that ok or should I paint them before playing with them?

I think I want to get a white primer for the heroes because I want bright colours on them. Should I use black primer for the rest? I think you are right Regi. This game better be worth it.


A basic rule to keep in mind is the darker the primer, the longer the painting will take. Black requires heavy paint layering to look good, and could cause a new painter to develop a strong hatred for painting. White is definitely your friend as a new painter. Ink washes are also great for new painters. If you are using inks, remember to paint a little brighter than you want as an end result since you'll use darker inks for shadow effects.

I'd also recommend picking up a can of orange or whatever base you want for the kobolds to save tons of time. I suspect spray orange primer with a red ink wash would look nice for the kobolds, although you could ask around for other options if you don't like that look.
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Phil Standen
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Dephyant wrote:

Next, aside from some glue bottle with a tiny funnel tip for accurate application


Get one with a brush instead.
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Regi Bennett
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Having Kobold Skin color primer would Save Tons of time.

eventually what you learn is to

Prime whole mini

cover skin ares and a little more, then paint armor/clothes/equipment over the skin base..

first ones.. I tried to pain each color area seperately,

on the last 10 kobolds I did.

I primed...then, hit possible skin areas with red/brown mix (going out side the "lines" of where the skin would show, then I painted the equipment, best effect yet.
 
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Regi Bennett
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you can see the kobolds I did last night.
 
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Regi Bennett
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And, whats funny is.. if you blow the pictures up to max size you can see all the issues and that I am new.

but that is only when the figures are 10 inches all on your screen. in person, the pieces look great! well. IMO. lol

if look in the top image, you can see the silver over black under coat on most pieces (more real/gritty look) then kobold on the far right is Silver paint over grey primer... looks.. bland =(
 
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T C
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Dupli-color Sandable Primer in red and white is a great primer for these models. The Red can be used on all the monsters, and white for the heroes. It coats nicely and is very quick to spray paint batches. I have a medium cardboard box that I set them up to prime in outside, and a disposable respirator can make the paint fumes easier to tolerate if you are doing big batches and can be used over and over again.
 
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Dave Riley
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Hey! I've got my copy coming to me now, and I'm starting to think about painting my own miniatures. Does the advice in this thread still apply? Should I get citadel paints or is there a cheaper/similarly priced alternative that's better?

I have some minor experience painting Warhammer 40k miniatures 15 years ago, but truth be told I was really awful at it. I'm not looking to make things perfect, but would someone mind pointing me at a couple (video or otherwise) tutorials that give the basics, so my stuff doesn't end up looking like smeared messes like my poor-old Imperial Guardsmen did?
 
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Andrew Norris
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No need for citadel paint. If you thin the paint with water you can get away with using craft paint. If you want a dedicated miniature paint then I would recommend Reapers master series. Great paint and a good value. The Master Series High Density paint has a pretty good little starter set that my wife bought me for christmas. Aside from lacking brown and flesh most of the colors are there. If you can I would buy both good value and lots of paint.

As for painting just do a search around You tube and the internet and look for techniques for drybrushing and layered high lights and you should be fine.
 
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Adam Porter
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My experience of painting miniatures was that the quality of the paint-job improved with increasing number of paints available to me. e.g. If I had three shades of brown available, I could create a much more interesting, shaded appearance than if I just had one. I always knew that I could mix new shades if I wanted to, but that never turned out right, and I never had the confidence to really try. My feeling is that scrimping on the paints (watering down craft paints/using cheaper brands etc.) may be a false economy. I would get yourself a good selection of quality miniature paints. They'll last for years (some of mine are 15 years old). I use Games Workshop paints.

Other mistakes I made early on: I didn't use an undercoat - thought I'd save time by painting directly onto the plastic - this was a complete failure. You really do need the undercoat.

Contrary to some of the advice above, I think a black undercoat is the most forgiving, because any gaps in the painting or recesses look like shadows with the black undercoat showing through, whereas a white undercoat will leave white gaps, which are more obvious. Also, I would use a spray-can undercoat, rather than painting it on. This is to save time, but also painting on an undercoat can leave it a bit thick and hide important details on the miniatures.

Finally, I think using washes after painting a colour can be extremely useful to add shading with ease. I would buy separate "Wash" paints rather than watering down your existing paints, to get the correct consistency.
 
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Andrew Norris
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Black undercoats are fine but it makes the finished product less bright. Good if you are playing the grim dark but if you want bright happy chibis you may want a white primer. Thin coats will obscure no details.

Craft paint works fine. Reaper or vallejo are great but not that much better. If you are on a budget and starting out you can use craft paint. I reguarlly use craft paint and put most other peoples paint jobs to shame, its the artist more than the medium.

Washes are good but you can get the same effect with an ink wash. Also much cheaper. Right now I am using a mixture of 1/2 matte medium and 1/2 water and a couple drops of flow improver to make ink washes with black, brown or really any color ink I can buy.
 
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Fernando Robert Yu
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Guys, I am planning to get this game, and I am wondering if you REALLY need to use superglue, or if you can use liquid plastic glue (I prefer this when I am assembling GW plastic models, as it melts the plastic and the seal is much better than superglue, which tends to get brittle over time). Is the kind of plastic for SDE similar to GW or is superglue the only realistic choice?

BTW, I love loctite gel superglue, but it is harder to find these days locally..
 
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Chris Lawson
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freddieyu wrote:
Guys, I am planning to get this game, and I am wondering if you REALLY need to use superglue, or if you can use liquid plastic glue (I prefer this when I am assembling GW plastic models, as it melts the plastic and the seal is much better than superglue, which tends to get brittle over time). Is the kind of plastic for SDE similar to GW or is superglue the only realistic choice?

BTW, I love loctite gel superglue, but it is harder to find these days locally..

You don't have to use superglue, using other types of glue such as Bostik or UHU (both all purpose adhesive) should work fine. Personally I used Bostik and it has worked fine.

I'm not sure about using liquid plastic glue (or polystyrene cement), I don't think the material used for the models will "melt" with this type of glue. I was going to try (as a test) but my old tube of Britfix 77 polystyrene cement seems to have gummed up so I can't give you a definitive answer.
 
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Fernando Robert Yu
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Ok many thanks..with so many pieces it can't hurt to try..and I will give feedback..

Unfortunately, my copy will come in July or August (hopefully) as that is the next shipment batch schedule the online store in my country, but I believe it will be worth the wait..
 
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The Rob
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yeah, planning on going white primer for the heroes, black or grey primer for the villains/spawnpoints/chests.

 
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