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Subject: Laska's minis ;) rss

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Marek L
Poland
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I will be painting RCS units soon and since i surely will want your guys opinion i allowed myself to start a thread for that, but until then here are some guys i apinted in last days. I don't see much of tank buster pics around so i hope you like it, also with the shiny Ozz



Oh and don't be suprised by the lefover white star, i just wanted to keep that decal
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Pawel
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This is a joke right?
They are horrible. You can do better.
 
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Louis Gentile
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Maybe try giving out some constructive comments.
Try using more coats of thinner paint, it looks pretty thick in the pics.
Also its hard to see details in the pics, try using more lighting.
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Martin Larouche
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Not everyone's a pro-painter or have painting as his main hobby. Some, like me, prefer to play with painted minis, but don't have the patience for the sheer quantity of painting Dust Tactics involve and go for the quick paint scheme with not a lot of details.

I, for one, applaud your work. For amateur painting, i find them pretty good.

My personal army is fully painted, but not much better than this.

Now my Space Hulk set, i took a lot of time to paint carefully. It took me forever (still have some Genestealers to complete) and that set looks really good. Painting is not my hobby however, playing the games is.

(The fact that i don't buy for 100$ of paints and brushes into a side-hobby for my main course also explains some lack of details in some of my minis.)
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Marek L
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So more layers but less paint? I'm new to this stuff, i just painted them one the colour i wanted, and i do not exactly get the idea of multi layering.
I do not have any good camera, OZZ is meant to look ugly as he has the 1st version of allied body armour. I made one pick, but it's still dark and eyes lokk hellishly bad, anyone knows how to make such small eyes?
Wow, those photos rly suck, sry guys, it isn't that grainy in life...

Thx for the good and bad worlds, those clay faces need some work but i don't exactly have an idea for them, when i get some new stuff and the decal for OZZ i will surely paint that hole and change his paint job partly for boltgun metal.
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Thiago Aranha
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Ouch, sorry man, but that face looks ugly. It's really better to just apply a thin layer of skin colour and leave it at that than to try and do eyes and lips if you don't really have the technique to do it. I never do lips on my male figures at all, it's just too risky.
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Marek L
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Either way he looks like a zombie And ther's got to be a way

Btw now i'm thinking how i menaged to make that eye on the "tank buster" guy, the one he has seems OK in real life..
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Andrew loses (again)
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I think you should re-base what you have done and try again. The green-silver approach works for the Tank Busters, but at any rate you should finish off with a wash to allow the figure's details to become more apparant. Eyes and especially mouths need not be explicitly coloured in if you used washes or a dip.

Also, as a beginner, keep things simple. Writing "Tank Buster" on the 3rd model is hard to do with a brush at all. But irregular wording is painfully obvious.
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Pawel
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Sorry I was off to work and I had no time to elaborate, I dissagree, you can still achieve a nice look with little funds, and skills.
Just use drybrush technique, and dip the minis to give it shading...

I am an amateur painter myself, but hell, before I painted anything I learned what I am about to do, bought a book, watched some stuff on youtube. You just ruined the minis. You know that you can strip that paint right?

Basicly you are laying too thick layers of paint, don't paint with a paint straight from the pot, add some water, usualy I add 1 part of water to 2 parts of paint, it must be a bit transparent when dry (if you would paint the newspaper you would barely be able to read it still) and it needs usualy more than one coat not to cover the details of miniature, you will find that some colours have great coverage and some like yellow needs more layers.

So you might start anew
You can strip this paint, I am using dettol its some kind of antiseptic, here more about it http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to..., paint should go off if you are using acrylics, but I don't know how this kind of plastic would react... anyway you have to try cause you covered all the details.
Next you will need primer for plastic, I use Army painter, now you have a choice, black is the easiest one to paint by beginners but bright colours are a bit dark and it need thicker paint or more layers, advantage is that you won't need to be precise and you could leave black in the crevices and it would look like shading. White would be the best if you paining bright colours, but you have to be very carefull to cover everything, there is grey as well, and got pros and cons of both. I would advice painting them black. Prime only when its not humid, and temp is average, use short burst, from an about 45 degree angle and about 20-30 cm away of model, you want a thin layer, almost showing thru, and SMOOTH surface.

Paint everything in basic colours, face, clothes etc. You can wash it now if you'd like, and you will highlight that later with the same paint you used to basecoat it.

To have a great metal effect paint black first, get metalic paint, put some on the brush, wipe almost all the paint into kitchen towel, and brush it on the black part but do not cover everything, it's called DRYBRUSHING and its the easiest technique you can use (get a crapy brush for that job cause it will ruine it, you also need different brush for metalics anyway, cause you would have metalic flakes getting into your paints), you will be amazed what effect you can achieve easily. This technique works well with every colour, simply paint first layer dark, and either lighten up the colour or use brighter one, for drybrushing, you could easily and fast paint tanks, armours, etc, almost everything.

Next give it a dip in quickshade
http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/43744/item/974228#item9742...
, that will give 3d feel to your minis and will protect them as well, cause its kind of varnish, there is army painter quickshade now availible. http://shop.thearmypainter.com/products.php?ProductGroupId=1

After dip you could highlight mini if you want, just paint same or brighter colour over sticking out parts of mini, like edges etc. but its not neccessary.

I would paint the base white, It would then dissapear on the board.

You will need at least a decent brush, again I will recomend army painter, cause it's cheap, and decent quality, I would advice you to get at least two : Wargamer: Regiment and Wargamer: Detail.

-To paint eyes, paint a horizontal white line first and then black vertical line, then paint the face in skin colour shaping the eye.

-Paint only lower lip, adding just a little bit pink into your skin colour.

Since you are polish check this guy on youtube http://www.youtube.com/user/CYTADELAPL?feature=watch#g/a






Powodzenia.
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Marek L
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Thx for the tips, i posted those pics to have some help, i never conisidered them fancy or "greatly painted". just trying to do stuff and get some feedback about it.I will never be a great ainter, not the artist type, i take it as reaxing hobby to paint the minis i play with. Prolly i will change some stuff, but i don't plan on getting all of that off, faces will be removed and panted again when i get to it o decent lvl then. And well, you can not belive it but TB guys look better on site, at least not destroyed...
 
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Pawel
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Its realy very simple, you can do it, you paid a lot to get into dust, paint the minis right!!! GOD DAMN IT ;D,

another tip, to do battle damage, get a sponge and lightly dab the mini with black/dark colour that you currently using, you can highlight the BOTTOM part of a scratch, with either metalic, or white to give it 3d look.

To paint camo on tanks, get painters masking tape, cut some and apply to the model, and spraypaint it different colour, here I used 3 colours, applying new tape (and leaving the previous one) for every colour.

 
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Pawel
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I haven't started my dust yet, and am a little bit worried as well if I got the skills to do it like on the images, but hey, we all learn, I gave you simple techniques that if you apply you will get a great looking minis, I started not a long time ago, and I painted maybe 20 figures total, this one was maybe 5th. just stick to those easy techniques and you will be amazed,

btw. get GW washes, badab black, and devlan mud, those will help you shade the miniature greatly, realy, its all so simple, you can get great looking miniatures without a lot of skill, just a little bit faith in yourself and time.

 
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Andrew loses (again)
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Cool mini, Pawel. What game's it from?
 
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Pawel
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Its a mini from Malifaux, Papa Loco, from The Guild faction.
Cactus is made by me, just a bit of green stuff, makes up a great robber, and a superb addition to settlers of catan, makes everybody laugh everytime when 7 is rolled. I think you can buy it separately.
https://wyrd-games.net/shop/Papa-Loco-Ortega-Gunslinger.html

the others, are just random 15mm minis for wargames, made scifi army for gruntz15mm, those are tiny little rascals and a pain in the back to paint, but still just by painting them right colours (no shading) they came out great, look at that close up. Yup those are based on 5 pence coin, so imagine the size.


I just want to encurage everyone to start painting their games, cause more and more comming out with great minis, what a shame they are unpainted. If I had more time I would paint all my games, but sadly I am a bit bussy now, but Dust is on my priority, and its comming next.
 
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Marek L
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Wow, hat's a lot of ifno i will need to put up into painting. Well i will work on those guy and maybe work with some RCS units when the come in. Those bases above look stunng!

The wors part is that there' a lot of info on the net, but well the road is painfull and all that need's to be learned by mistakes lie these faces of mine If i get sth fnished i ill surely post t here for some more feedback, and damn i need to borrow some better camera

Again thx for the encouragment and info, or first post just destroyed me bu tommorow i willget some devlan mud and boltgun mteal and give it a try. Btw the TB guys al covered in badab black (not the faces either it isn't for them or i do sth wrong,proly to much of it, it makes them too drty.
 
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Pawel
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yeah I had the same problem, when I first tried washes, now I am not painting whole figures with washes, just using them to darken an area or crevices like armpits etc, if you want to cover the whole mini with wash I think what you would have to do first is to seal it with glosy varnish, that would help wash to run easily off the flat surface (you would have to get rid of shine later with flat varnish)

sometimes you will get bendy miniatures, simply heat them up a little bit with hair dryer and dip them in cold water that will reshape them.

BEFORE YOU'LL START PAINTING you have to learn how to sit to a table

First of all, forget any coffeine, you must be relaxed, to have a steady hands, rest your forearms on an edge of a table (or elbows on a table if you prefer) hold miniature in one hand, bring them together, to futher stabilise your hands rest pinky of the hand you are painting with on a miniature or other hand. If you still having problems with shaky hands put that smack off and paint while exhaling, do not hold breath.



Easiest way is to paint them base coat, cover it with wash (like devlan mud) and then drybrush with the same colour again, Just remember, add water for basecoating no water for drybrushing.make some weathering like edges of the coats touch up with devlan mud to make it dirtier etc. Generaly in drybrushing you start with dark colour, and then run brighter one, so if you have two tones of the same colour you could use them, or mix paints yourself, adding black, white or yellow, some paints cant be mixed that way (wont give you lighter tone of the same colour). Mix paints that will save your money.



Its realy so simple when you try it, don't need a best brush for this technique. For detail painting I would realy recomend getting red sable hair brushes, they are for watercolour paints but are great for acrylics. Rinse them during painting often and reshape to the point by dragging it on a kitchen towel while rolling it.



And remember to wash them in warm water after you finish painting to keep them nice cause they are delicate, there is a brush cleaner that helps you keep them nice and pointy like this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/ARTIST-PAINT-CLEANER-PRESERVER-RESTO..., always reshape them and keep the protective caps on, store in a jar upside down, that helps the water to run out, and won't ruin the glue in the ferrule) Army Painter brushes I mentioned http://shop.thearmypainter.com/products.php?ProductGroupId=6... are cheap and I would realy recommend them, they are also comftable, and quite thick handles you will need at lest Regiment and 2x Detail (one for metalic colours, cant use one brush for normal and metalic, also you need 2 cups of rinsing water for one and another paints), their drybrushes and hobby range sucks, don't use Games Workshop brushes as well they are crap, except brushes for drybrushing these are good, if you'll care for brushes they will last you at least for a year of painting.

To keep your paints for longer try a WET PALETTE and make one,keeps paints moist you will have more time to paint before your paint will dry up, you can even store it in fridge. Shake your paints well before use, they tend to separate.



if you are painting stripes (like the ones on tank busters weapon) mask it with painters masking tape, its inexpensive and you can find it everywhere, and paint over it, remove the tape and voila, straight. Same applies if you want to make any pattern, like camo, you can block it with blue-tack as well, its kind of plasticine, and then paint irregular spots, you would get a cool effect if you masked some parts on tanks, and then dab the rest with sponge white, kind of winter cammo?

That should be enough for beginning, if you feel you can do better, try 3 colours up technique: its simple and gives great results, you are shading with 3 tones of the same colour.

Look how drybrushing works http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/757186/allies-finally-painte...

here is a site that talks a little about painting and weathering for dust http://twc-dust-tactics.blogspot.com/2011/06/hobby-wednesday...
you dont have to use all theirs techniques but at least you will see what you are after.

Its realy simple, and you will learn how to do it, nobody is a painter from the birth, you have to learn few techniques and you can make prety stunning miniatures, I am not a crafty person as well, yet I am confident that given time and a little effort I could paint things nice, so you do.

To make a base like this easy way you will need white glue, some sand, and little rocks, coat with brush on primer, paint dark brown and drybrush with bone and glue some static grass on top, I used in those ones Windsor and newton galeria texture gel, it gave it more volume (glue would come out almost flat) and that was fist time I tried it and I am happy how it came out.

This guy helped me a lot, and he got a lot of ask a painter vids:
http://agpminis.com/ask2.html Watch "starting on a shoestring" and tutorials http://agpminis.com/tutorials3.html

dont buy boltgun metal, it will run if you paint varnish on, get chainmall metal, its brighter



Notice how she highlight edges, she runs the side of a brush on an edge not the tip, and how she use the wash, after she finished painting metal. DO NOT PAINT ON WET MINI wait untill it dries up, or use hair dryer on "cold" setting

Another tip is the jewel effect, to paint glases etc.


Battle damage technique, simply you need a darker colour of basecoat or black, dab it on with a sponge or paint scratches (claw marks!!!), and highlight bottom edge with bright colour or metalic


To protect the minis seal them with flat varnish... DONE
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John Wiser
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Have you tried just adding a wash? I ask only because I can not paint yet tried a wash and I love it. As a matter of fact I have posted my pictures (these are from the first base set of DT) and by no means do they measure up to the painted versions, they look great when you put them into play as the wash really brings out the details.

If you get a second check out my pictures of my washed set and see if it might be for you. At the end of the day if are happy, this is all that matters.

P.S.
For faster results I think you can click on my name and click on gallery to see my pictures.

 
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Marek L
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Finally i got some time to share the results of some bits of work and give better pics on which minis won't look lika an e-bay W40K horror.
I gave monkeys and TB some work, made an experiment with gorillas bases, and yesterday painted the DD. Also today i found out how much i suck at making photos and how much a photo can change how the mini looks like.

All all advice appreciated. Still need to work on getting better faces and spliting the color scheme a bit i think..




 
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Pawel
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Wow, that's a great improvement, I like the gorilla with a corpse on a base, nice idea. Happy to see you are getting better.
 
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Marek L
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You had your input in these
 
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