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Subject: Need help with spray glue.. rss

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Guðmundur B. Gíslason
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I have never done a PnP before and might have not chosen the easiest one out there DP. But I bought this glue.


Wondering if anyone had experience with it? It was one of the most affordable here others where really expensive. But how thick of a layer should I use and how can I prevent the cap from clogging up?
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Steve S
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I don't know how much it varies by brand, but the stuff I've been using doesn't need very much at all, just a very thin layer. Spraying just one surface allows you to move what you're sticking together, spraying both surfaces gives you a stronger bond but you have to have really steady hands because once they're together, they're not coming apart.

As far as not clogging, when you're done with it, turn it upside down and spray until only the gas sprays, that will make sure the nozzle is clear.
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Jake Staines
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Shadoglare wrote:

As far as not clogging, when you're done with it, turn it upside down and spray until only the gas sprays, that will make sure the nozzle is clear.


In addition - if it does clog, under no circumstances try and clear it while it's still attached to the can! It sounds obvious, but people continue to make the mistake; pull the plastic spray head off the can before trying to clear it, and face the nozzle away from you (and anything you care about) when you put it back on.

A lot of spray nozzles (it depends on the spray more than the nozzle, of course) can be cleared simply by [removing them and] immersing them in hot water for a few minutes and then brushing them with an old toothbrush or something. Just be sure to dry it out properly before replacing it. ;-)
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Andrew Paterson
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I've not seen that one before, and have only used 2 different types of spray glue. One was elmers, the other is 3M Super 77. The Super 77 was much more than the elmers. It is worth every penny.

I was never happy with the Elmers, the Super 77 is great. Thin spray, and as the other poster said, one side for being able to re-position, both sides for making it permanent right away.

Myself, I will tape one of the edges of the pages together, making sure the front & backs line up with a strong light, then I open it up, spray glue both sides, and carefully close it together.

The longest/hardest part is aligning the front & back, and making sure that it keeps aligned when opened/closed.
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Chris Schumann
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Read the entire label too. Not just for safety, but for the best possible results.
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George Parker
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Bichatse wrote:
Shadoglare wrote:

As far as not clogging, when you're done with it, turn it upside down and spray until only the gas sprays, that will make sure the nozzle is clear.


In addition - if it does clog, under no circumstances try and clear it while it's still attached to the can! It sounds obvious, but people continue to make the mistake; pull the plastic spray head off the can before trying to clear it, and face the nozzle away from you (and anything you care about) when you put it back on.

A lot of spray nozzles (it depends on the spray more than the nozzle, of course) can be cleared simply by [removing them and] immersing them in hot water for a few minutes and then brushing them with an old toothbrush or something. Just be sure to dry it out properly before replacing it. ;-)


If the nozzle is uncleanable, I have found small bags of replacement nozzles for sell at local art supply stores very cheap. They are probably also available at most hardware stores.

http://artprimo.com/catalog/spray-paint-caps-c-27.html
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George Ramos
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The glue should be fine, as long as you don't spray it outside it's temperature range. Some glues require a brayer, however. A brayer is a rubber roller. The tiny blobs of glue that the aerosol spits out sometimes won't burst unless you really press hard on them. A brayer will guarantee the blobs burst and spread their tackiness all around.

To use a brayer, first spray evenly (not too much, it'll never dry). No spot should get sprayed for more than a second, otherwise the paper will saturate and it will warp.

Next, roll the brayer back and forth in an up-and-down direction. Once you've rolled the entire surface, turn the sheet (or the brayer) 90 degrees and roll the entire surface again. Your two rolling actions should always be at 90 degrees to each other.

Remember to always bray directly on the thinnest medium. Don't, for example, roll the roller on the cardboard, flip it over and roll the sheet instead.

The previous poster is correct regarding blockage: spray upside down for a few seconds.

I hope that's useful. Good luck!
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Sam Phillips Beckerman
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stores like Hobby Lobby & Michaels have a 40% off coupon almost every week. I use them for adhesives.

I like to spray in a box, preferably just outside my studio. I keep a stack of newspapers & put a fresh layer before spraying. That way, nothing gets adhesive on the other side from previous sprayings.

I have several brayers, but I use a clean piece of an old tee shirt and rub from the center out. I then wrap the cloth over an old hotel key, credit card & apply pressure over the entire glued surface. You can do this on either side.

I use GooGone or its $store equivilant to clean my fingers afterwards.
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SQ
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+1 for Super 77. I've never had any problems with it. You may get a fine mist on your hands and arms if you hold the piece you are spraying, but it washes off easily.
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Guðmundur B. Gíslason
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Whizkid wrote:
Read the entire label too. Not just for safety, but for the best possible results.


Well.. the lable is in languages I don't speak but ill use google translate to help me

Thanks for all the tip's Ill hopefully start the gluing later tonight.
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Timmy Rink
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This title is open ended and I feared the worst. I'm glad your hand isn't stuck to your face like I was imagining.
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Guðmundur B. Gíslason
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Coconut Jones wrote:
This title is open ended and I feared the worst. I'm glad your hand isn't stuck to your face like I was imagining.


hah.. I am horrible at making titles on forums and or subjects in emails... people usually fear the worst
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Martin Boisselle
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Once you're done with spraying, turn the bottle upside down, and spray until no glue is coming out; it'll help to prevent clogging....
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Chris Stenger

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Sam Houston wrote:
stores like Hobby Lobby & Michaels have a 40% off coupon almost every week. I use them for adhesives.


I use those coupons for my adhesives as well. I have been using Krylon, with no complaints so far.
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tom franklin
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richardtempura wrote:
Once you're done with spraying, turn the bottle upside down, and spray until no glue is coming out; it'll help to prevent clogging....


This is what the instructions call for on Super 77. I read it before using the spray glue the first time and then promptly forgot to do so. The next time I tried to use it I had to get rid of some build-up around the sprayer hole. It was messier than I wanted to get just before gluing some card faces together.

Lesson learned. Now I do the upside-down spraying every time.
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Scott Siedschlag
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Another helpful tip for aligning them is to put the two sheets back to back and punch them with a 2 or 3 hole punch. Slide the first sheet unto some sort of pegs the same size as the holes. I use artists paint brush handles as they are tapered and don't need to be the exact size as the hole, just slide them onto the handles until they stop. Spray the sheet you just mounted on the pegs with no sticky crap all over your fingers from holding the sheet by hand. Next slide the opposing sheet util the area at the holes comes in contact then use a flat edge to smooth out your glued sheets starting at the holes and working to the other side. If you do it right, you won't get the glue all over your hands or have any air bubbles between the sheets of material.
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The best advice I can offer with almost any print 'n' play project, especially one the size of Dungeon Plungin', is to print directly onto full-sheet label paper, cut out the items, and stick them directly onto whatever you're using for the backing material. It's a lot more painless than having to fiddle with glues (and the final product is nice and flat, rather than bubbled or wrinkled)!
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Guðmundur B. Gíslason
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squash wrote:
The best advice I can offer with almost any print 'n' play project, especially one the size of Dungeon Plungin', is to print directly onto full-sheet label paper, cut out the items, and stick them directly onto whatever you're using for the backing material. It's a lot more painless than having to fiddle with glues (and the final product is nice and flat, rather than bubbled or wrinkled)!


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Robert Beachler
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And for the love of God do not mistake for lube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XOzPjsD_ec
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Brian Burns
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Sam Houston wrote:
I then wrap the cloth over an old hotel key


Aw shucks! I'm all out of those!
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