Recommend
 
 Thumb up
 Hide
14 Posts

Descent: Journeys in the Dark» Forums » General

Subject: Undercoating! rss

Your Tags: Add tags
Popular Tags: [View All]
Chris Leigh
United Kingdom
Leighton Buzzard
Beds
flag msg tools
badge
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
So I've recently acquired the original game, along with minis for WOD and TOI and I am intending to paint them. Problem is, I'm not very good!

Would you undercoat black or white? I'm thinking the diff monsters as the set I acquired has had all the heroes undercoated black!

I'm thinking just block colors a bit of drybrushing and then a wash, thats as far as my technique goes.

Would it be possible to do bases AFTER the painting? I tried glueing sand on bases for Warhammer and even after the undercoat the stuff just dropped off all the time.

Sorry for all the noob questions!

 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Michael Jordal
United States
Austin
Minnesota
flag msg tools
badge
Ike Clanton painted by me for Wild West Exodus
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
I generally undercoat white, but it is a preference thing. I generally do the sand before priming as well.
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Andrew Dale
United Kingdom
Loughborough
Leicestershire
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
Depends who you talk to and what their experiences are however my view....

I don't like undercoating in black, it can become difficult to see the detail in all but the most retina-searing light. My approach is to undercoat white and then put a black (badab black as was) wash on the model to act as a painting guide. That helps (a) brighten the overall paint-job and (b) provide some immediate line definition and shading.

As for sand, I always stick that to the base before priming. A thin, watery first coat of primer once the glue has dried helps set it to the base properly.

Friends swear by an undercoat in black from a speed point of view as they don't have to hit every last spot. Personally I don't like the ultra-black shading that gives. A good wash gives a much better graduated shading effect. But it takes time, so hence it's a judgement call unless you are incredibly fast AND accurate!
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
David Munch
Denmark
Lystrup
flag msg tools
mbmbmbmbmb
Seems like I go against the norm.

I always undercoat in black, mainly because I can skip shading of crevices later on in many cases, and it generally helps separating areas, which looks better in my opinion. I can have minor problems in few cases, picking out details, but in my experience details pop up of the black, as you progress with a figure, and the whole come out.

Personally I don't have a problem with losing colors when not undercoating, so I mainly do it due to the above reason. I don't see an effect on the above color, either with a white or black undercoat. I use the newest GW paints. If you varnish them after anyway, then it doesn't matter either..

Regarding bases I always do that at the end, as I find easy to paint around the figure itself - And I don't even glue the model to the base until I'm done with the figure itself.
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Andrew Dale
United Kingdom
Loughborough
Leicestershire
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
I think it's a case of try both ways and see what works for you.
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Chris Leigh
United Kingdom
Leighton Buzzard
Beds
flag msg tools
badge
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
Well the heroes came presprayed black from my second hand kit and I'm working through them, I figure i'll paint the monsters white and see how they come out.

I'm finding if i water paints down they dont cover well enough and if i dont the paint is really thick on the model, leaving it with an oddish texture...

Any thoughts?
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Andrew Dale
United Kingdom
Loughborough
Leicestershire
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
Several thin coats beat one thick one anytime. The only argument in favour of a thick coat is it gets the job done quickly but that's the only one. Miniatures painted with thick coats generally look terrible unless it's a specific texture you're after.

Painting onto black undercoat will usually mean more thin coats are required from low pigment paints to cover properly. Another reason why I prefer undercoating in white.

I should add that the black wash I mentioned does sometimes make coverage with certain paints a little tricky - although because it helps me see the detail I'll cope with a couple of extra coats.

How much to thin is a tricky one to give a hard and fast rule to. A thicker foundation paint will need more thinning than a colour paint (old GW references). But similarly a darker colour will cope with more thinning than a lighter colour. Also an older paint will generally be thicker than a new one (less of a problem with vallejo bottles) because the lid has been off.

What I do is use a white ceramic tile to mix paint on (easy to clean) - when I've watered down slightly I brush a little across the tile and watch whether the pigment stays constant or if it becomes thin and patchy. If it looks like it can take a little more water I do so - if it looks to thin on the tile it generally will on the model too in which case add a little paint.

Only other tip I can think of is avoid the temptation to add more water as your paint puddle starts to dry up - you may get away with it occasionally but I find it tends to thin too far and give you the same poor coverage problem. Try with something like snakebite leather (sorry old GW ref again) and see how it gets thinner and more yellow - now imagine how daft that will look on a leather model feature.

Good luck!! YouTube is a good place to search for painting videos.
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Robert
Canada
Edmonton
Alberta
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmb
GREY is a pretty common choice. I have also on rare occassion actual "colour" undercoats where most of the model was of a single colour.

 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
David Munch
Denmark
Lystrup
flag msg tools
mbmbmbmbmb
andrewmdale wrote:
What I do is use a white ceramic tile to mix paint on (easy to clean) - when I've watered down slightly I brush a little across the tile and watch whether the pigment stays constant or if it becomes thin and patchy. If it looks like it can take a little more water I do so - if it looks to thin on the tile it generally will on the model too in which case add a little paint.

Thank you for the mixing tip.

I use the top of a CD jewel case, cheap, I have plenty, and it is good for mixing.
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Andrew Dale
United Kingdom
Loughborough
Leicestershire
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
I've got a few terrible albums that are only good for mixing paint on if that counts
1 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Chris Leigh
United Kingdom
Leighton Buzzard
Beds
flag msg tools
badge
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
Well all of the first edition characters came to me undercoated black, so I've tried white with Tomble Burrowell of the second edition.

Would love critique, I'm only learning but I'm really happy with how he came out!
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Andrew Dale
United Kingdom
Loughborough
Leicestershire
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
Great job! Looking forward to seeing your next ones.

A
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
David Munch
Denmark
Lystrup
flag msg tools
mbmbmbmbmb
I really have to post some pictures of my painted figures from Descent, when I get home from Norway..
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Mårten Cederholm
Sweden
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
blunder1983 wrote:
Well all of the first edition characters came to me undercoated black, so I've tried white with Tomble Burrowell of the second edition.

Would love critique, I'm only learning but I'm really happy with how he came out!


You just started out?
I'm in the same situation.
The problem is, if you don't start you never learn...
 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Front Page | Welcome | Contact | Privacy Policy | Terms of Service | Advertise | Support BGG | Feeds RSS
Geekdo, BoardGameGeek, the Geekdo logo, and the BoardGameGeek logo are trademarks of BoardGameGeek, LLC.