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Subject: You know what playmat design would receive like... almost all of my Geekgold? rss

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Joel Eddy
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I wonder if someone could design a space themed playmat that was 4x4 in physical size, but also designed where you could easily delineate a 3x3 and a 2x2 area, and also clearly see where a Range 1 and Range 2 border (ship starting areas) would exist for the 4x4 and 3x3 play areas??

That would be rad. devil
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Daniel Brown
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If that playmat image was a nicely done death star surface, then I would have to give that user an additional 50 geekgold.
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Joel Eddy
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StyxParadox wrote:
If that playmat image was a nicely done death star surface, then I would have to give that user an additional 50 geekgold.


Yes! Let's create a pool of Geekgold!

I wonder if the table covers from Boards & Bits would hold paint. If they still sold them, it would be easy to get a piece cut at 48x48, and put the design on. /shrug

My guess is that they don't hold paint very well though.



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Jake Di Toro
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If they were white they would have done well with transfers... they were just a cotton top surface on a rubber mat.

I'm going to give you a reason why you don't want this however. Because you're asking for so much marking on this you'll start to use it for ranging and i you ever start playing in Tournaments you'll have come to depend on it and it won't be there for the Tournament.

The range ruler is 30cm, just a bit under the 1 foot increments you want the play surface divided into, and if you're also marking range 1 and 2 for each "play area" you've pretty much divided the play area into just about every range measurement there is. Not to mention it would look something of a mess because range 2 of you're 4x4 would actually be inside your 3x3 area, etc.
 
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Joel Eddy
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karrde wrote:
If they were white they would have done well with transfers... they were just a cotton top surface on a rubber mat.

I'm going to give you a reason why you don't want this however. Because you're asking for so much marking on this you'll start to use it for ranging and i you ever start playing in Tournaments you'll have come to depend on it and it won't be there for the Tournament.

The range ruler is 30cm, just a bit under the 1 foot increments you want the play surface divided into, and if you're also marking range 1 and 2 for each "play area" you've pretty much divided the play area into just about every range measurement there is. Not to mention it would look something of a mess because range 2 of you're 4x4 would actually be inside your 3x3 area, etc.


I'm not following that. Range 1 = The "1" on the firing template, which about 10 cm. Range 2 would be about 20 cm. I'm at work and can't measure but I'm sure that's the case.

If the spaces could be delineated by "art" work instead of "lines" it might be nice looking. I have no plans for tournament play
 
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Keith Collins
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StyxParadox wrote:
If that playmat image was a nicely done death star surface, then I would have to give that user an additional 50 geekgold.


Reversable, one side Death Star, the other side starfield.
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Joel Eddy
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MajMalfunction10 wrote:
StyxParadox wrote:
If that playmat image was a nicely done death star surface, then I would have to give that user an additional 50 geekgold.


Reversable, one side Death Star, the other side starfield.


That would be pretty sick. You could use Deathstar type imagery to delineate play areas...
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James Hébert
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Reversible would be cool, but don't forget that finding a worthwhile substrate material that allows the miniatures to move freely, yet still grips the table surface, may be a challenge.

Plus, when you put it away (or transport it), you'll need to roll it up into a tube or box, because the side facing outward can get dinged or damaged.

I've been looking into such a material for a while, but haven't found one worthwhile yet.
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Jake Di Toro
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I knew I was explaining it poorly, but here's an example:



The black borders are your 4x4 and 3x3 play areas. The red blocks are range 1 for each of those areas and blue blocks are range 2. The purple block is where the range 2 of the 4x4 area is overlapping the range 1 of the 3x3.

Even if it's just art it starts to get a little messy on which section is which.
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Alex Eding
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eekamouse wrote:


I wonder if the table covers from Boards & Bits would hold paint. If they still sold them,



I heard that they still have a supply, but Tom doesn't have anyone to cut the mats anymore.

could be a rumor, could be true. I asked Tom about it, and he gave me the runaround on getting one.
 
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Joel Eddy
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karrde wrote:
I knew I was explaining it poorly, but here's an example:



The black borders are your 4x4 and 3x3 play areas. The red blocks are range 1 for each of those areas and blue blocks are range 2. The purple block is where the range 2 of the 4x4 area is overlapping the range 1 of the 3x3.

Even if it's just art it starts to get a little messy on which section is which.


I'll need to go home and measure, but I don't think that's right. I'm almost certain that's not right. The Range Ruler (firing template) is very close to one foot. So there should be no way that Range 2 on it would creep into the 3x3 area if you are started on the outside of the map.

Again. I need to measure.
 
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Jake Di Toro
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eekamouse wrote:


I'll need to go home and measure, but I don't think that's right. I'm almost certain that's not right. The Range Ruler (firing template) is very close to one foot. So there should be no way that Range 2 on it would creep into the 3x3 area if you are started on the outside of the map.

Again. I need to measure.


Each range is 10cm (just shy of 4 inches) so range 2 goes almost 8 inches in. But a 3x3 square is only 6 inches (not a foot) from the edge of a 4x4 square, hence the overlap.
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Steven Lowder
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From the edge of the 4x4 map to the edge of the 3x3 map is only 6 inches, right?

So the above image would be correct.
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Joel Eddy
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karrde wrote:
eekamouse wrote:


I'll need to go home and measure, but I don't think that's right. I'm almost certain that's not right. The Range Ruler (firing template) is very close to one foot. So there should be no way that Range 2 on it would creep into the 3x3 area if you are started on the outside of the map.

Again. I need to measure.


Each range is 10cm (just shy of 4 inches) so range 2 goes almost 8 inches in. But a 3x3 square is only 6 inches (not a foot) from the edge of a 4x4 square, hence the overlap.


I see... Geometry.... I failz it.

Better to just have two mats then. One 4x4 and one 3x3.
 
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Jake Di Toro
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eekamouse wrote:

I see... Geometry.... I failz it.

Better to just have two mats then. One 4x4 and one 3x3.


Don't feel to bad, when you first described it I was like "ya that'd be cool". Then I did the math and realized this problem.
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Joel Eddy
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karrde wrote:
eekamouse wrote:

I see... Geometry.... I failz it.

Better to just have two mats then. One 4x4 and one 3x3.


Don't feel to bad, when you first described it I was like "ya that'd be cool". Then I did the math and realized this problem.


It might still be doable if you got rid of the range borders.

I was just trying to make something easily visible for placing ships etc... I mean... I use the ruler now and it's fine. But it looks like adding some kind of faded border would just add more clutter than necessary.

If it was just a 4x4 piece of material with some kind of asteroid belt/blackhole/nebula to delineate the 3x3 grid, that shouldn't be too bad.
 
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StyxParadox wrote:
If that playmat image was a nicely done death star surface, then I would have to give that user an additional 50 geekgold.


"...and my axe!!" oh wait...
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does the 3x3 have to be central in the 4x4? you could just put it in the corner giving you a foot around 2 sides. that makes a nice area for cards/drinks and other stuff.
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Joel Eddy
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ironman99 wrote:
does the 3x3 have to be central in the 4x4? you could just put it in the corner giving you a foot around 2 sides. that makes a nice area for cards/drinks and other stuff.


That might be OK. I am wondering what kind of material would be best for something like this. Maybe just print out something and mount it to chipboard, cut it in half and hinge it. Could do some cool stuff with GIMP or Photoshop.
 
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Jake Di Toro
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ironman99 wrote:
does the 3x3 have to be central in the 4x4? you could just put it in the corner giving you a foot around 2 sides. that makes a nice area for cards/drinks and other stuff.


Ya, but who gets to be the lucky one to play right on the edge and who has to reach over a foot of dead space to get to the figs... besides it wouldn't exactly be ascetically pleasing in my opinion.
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Brandon M
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karrde wrote:
[q="ironman99"] besides it wouldn't exactly be ascetically pleasing in my opinion.


If we were ascetics we wouldn't be playing board games.
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Joel Eddy
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I did some thinking on this and I am going to see if Tom at Boards and Bits can get those table covers in white, so I can silk screen or iron some Hubble images on them. If he doesn't have them some has to!
 
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Jake Di Toro
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eekamouse wrote:
I did some thinking on this and I am going to see if Tom at Boards and Bits can get those table covers in white, so I can silk screen or iron some Hubble images on them. If he doesn't have them some has to!


Ya, right here. http://www.dyetrans.com/detail.php?item_no=MP003

Corporate accounts only, $100 minimum order.
 
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Joel Eddy
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karrde wrote:
eekamouse wrote:
I did some thinking on this and I am going to see if Tom at Boards and Bits can get those table covers in white, so I can silk screen or iron some Hubble images on them. If he doesn't have them some has to!


Ya, right here. http://www.dyetrans.com/detail.php?item_no=MP003

Corporate accounts only, $100 minimum order.


Ugh.... A bit out of reach for a "fun project".

I'd love to roll something out like this on my table (maybe something a little less busy):

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Chris Miller
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This reminds me of when I started playing Malifaux. The standard table size is 3'x3' and I had this idea to get 18" laminate tiles (the kind you peel and stick) to made modular boards. I did a bit of work and made a few, and then the first time we played on it I realized that it really broke the game due to being able to range everything easily by eye.

Ah well. arrrh
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