War is a Racket - Maj Gen Smedley Darlington Butler d
Here are the rules for Closed Hand Play for DREAM BUCK.
I just got done typing them into the computer.
Still to come OPEN HAND PLAY. Will post them in another post hopefully within a week.
1991 Reflect Game Corp.
All Rights Reserved
Patent Applied For
Reflect Game Corporation
DREAM BUCK tm
CONGRATULATIONS! You have just purchased DREAM BUCK, the challenging card game that gives you the thrill of white-tail deer hunting all year long. DREAM BUCK was developed by a hunter for hunters.
AGES: 10 to Adult PLAYERS: 1 to 6
GAME CONTENTS: 72 Cards as Follows:
12 REMEDY/DRAW TWO OPTION.........(Green)
OBJECT OF THE GAME: Shoot the buck with the biggest rack, possibly even a new world record.
-Collect the best combination of BUCK cards.
-Get a good SHOT card.
-Bag your buck!
You'll only get to kill one buck, and then you're out for the rest of the game. So better stalk a big one. DREAM BUCK offers extensive variations on the outcome of the game. Buck weight ranges from 90 to 324 pounds. Antlers range from 2 to 21 points. Percentages range from 21 to 100.
LENGTH OF GAME: Each time the draw pile has been used up another day of hunting is over. When the draw pile has been depleted 5 times (5 days of hunting), the game (season) is over.
IMPORTANT NOTE: DREAM BUCK can be played in two distinct ways — Closed Hand Play, so no one can see your cards, or Open Hand Play, so everyone's cards are in full view as the game is played. Each version has its own rules.
CLOSED HAND PLAY
After the cards are thoroughly shuffled, deal 5 cards to each player. While you may sometimes choose to have less than 5 cards, at no time during the game may any player have more than 5 cards after his turn is complete. Place the remaining cards face down in the center of the table. This is the draw pile. When play begins, you will take turns drawing and discarding cards from either the draw pile or discard pile. Begin play in a clockwise direction. Some cards you need. Others you don't and must get rid of. When you have just the right combination of cards, you may shoot at your buck. There are four kinds of cards.
BUCK CARDS: These cards must be added up to show you the size of your buck. That is why you will want to collect the best possible combination of them. Of course, you do not have to accept any BUCK cards ever, only if you want to accept them. On individual cards the antler points range from 2 to 4 points, weights from 4 to 50 pounds, and DREAM BUCK percentages (%) from 4 to 25. How big is your buck? Just add up this information across the top of these cards and add 100 pounds to the weight. Here's an example:
WT 4 POINT %
50 BUCK 25
WT 3 POINT %
40 BUCK 20
WT 3 POINT %
30 BUCK 15
WT 3 POINT %
20 BUCK 10
If during play you had collected these 4 BUCK cards, your buck would be a 13 pointer. He'd weigh 240 pounds, and you DREAM BUCK % would be 70%. (The DREAM BUCK % is a scoring of the buck's antler size. 100% would be a new world record.) As the game continues your buck can continue to grow bigger as you exchange your BUCK cards with ones taken from the draw pile.
EXCHANGING: Using the example given above, let's say you draw another rare 4 point BUCK card. You would then want to exchange it with one of your 3 point BUCK cards. Thus, your 13 point buck has grown into a 14 pointer.
If 2 or more of your BUCK cards have an “X” on the front of them, your buck, although a safe shot, has become a difficult shot. It may only be shot with a SHOT card that also has an “X”.
SHOT CARDS: These allow you to take from 1 to 4 shots at your buck. You cannot shoot without a SHOT card in your hand. A SHOT card with a star (*) on it may be used to take 1 shot at your buck even if you have a problem card(s) as long as it is not a difficult shot (2-X's) buck. Otherwise it functions as a regular SHOT card allowing you 1 shot. A SHOT card with an “X” on it may be used to shoot at any buck, difficult or not, as long as you do not have any problem cards in your hand.
PROBLEM CARDS: You must always accept a PROBLEM card when you draw one. If you do not have room in your hand for a PROBLEM card, you must make room, and that will mean you may be forced to discard a shot card, remedy card or buck card. There are 3 different kinds of PROBLEM cards, each requiring its own kind of remedy card. The type of PROBLEM card is identified by the letter P, E, or N located in the upper left hand side of the PROBLEM card.
“P” – Preventable. These are problems that you could have probably prevented if you had prepared yourself better.
“E” – Environmental. These are problems that involve weather conditions.
“N” – Non-controllable. These are the problems that happen during hunting that you really have little or no control over.
Some PROBLEM cards have arrows on them. The arrows control or change the direction of play. When a player discards a PROBLEM card with an arrow, the direction of the play may reverse immediately.
All PROBLEM cards have a number in the lower right hand side ranging from 1 to 6. The higher the number is, the worse your problem condition is. As you play the game, you will continue to try and get rid of PROBLEM cards. One way is by “dumping” problems. Here's how it works. If it's your turn and the discard pile has a PROBLEM card or cards that you hold, you can then “dump” your PROBLEM card(s) with that number on the discard pile. If you do this, that is your turn, you do not draw from the draw pile.
If it's your turn and if you have a handful (all 5 cards) or PROBLEM cards, you can declare to the other players that fact and then discard your entire hand on the discard pile. You must then sit out playing time equal to the largest number on a single discarded PROBLEM card you had. Thus, if you had a “6” PROBLEM card, you sit out 6 rounds before playing again. If you do not declare your problem condition to the other players and then draw another PROBLEM card, you are then forced out of play for the remainder of the day.
REMEDY/DRAW TWO OPTION CARDS: These remove your PROBLEM cards and thus are always discarded along with them. There are 4 different kinds of REMEDY cards. Each is marked to show the kinds of PROBLEM card(s) it will remove: “P”, “E” or “N”. A REMEDY card marked “ALL” may be used to remove all of your PROBLEM cards on the same turn. For instance, let's say that you have an E-PROBLEM card in your hand and then draw an E-only remedy card. You may immediately discard both cards. Or, if you have an E-only remedy card and then draw an E-PROBLEM card, you may immediately discard both cards. REMEDY cards do not have to be played immediately, but may be kept for later use. REMEDY cards also have another use, the DRAW TWO OPTION.
DRAW TWO OPTION: This gives you two chances on the same turn to get the card you really need. Here's how it works. On your turn you must declare to the other players before you draw any cards that you are going to use your “Draw Two Option”. You then discard your REMEDY/DRAW TWO OPTION card and draw again. But if the second card drawn is a PROBLEM card you must accept it. This option is especially helpful when the draw pile is getting low and you desperately need a certain card.
A REMEDY card with a (*) on it may be used to do both functions (remove all your PROBLEM cards and allow you to draw up to 2 additional card(s).
SHOOTING: 2 conditions must be met before you can shoot:
1.Your BUCK cards must add up to at least 8 points.
2.You must have a SHOT card.
SPECIAL NOTE: Killing any buck with less than 8 antler points will distort your final scoring.
To shoot you must declare to the other players before you draw any cards that you are going to shoot. The way you shoot is by drawing cards one at a time from the draw pile for each of the shots at a time from the draw pile for each of the shots stated on your SHOT card. Check your results at the bottom of those cards drawn. Ignore the information at the top. If any of them read “KILL” at the bottom, stop! Do not draw the remaining cards you were entitled to draw. Simply discard your shot card and follow the instructions in the proper paragraph below. There can be 3 different results: KILL, MISS, or WOUND.
KILL: As soon as one of the cards you are entitled to draw reads “KILL”, you have bagged your buck. Do not draw any more cards. Keep your “KILL” card and all your BUCK cards for scoring your buck. Then remove these cards from the deck for the rest of the 5 day hunt. You have been successful, but are not out of the hunt.
MISS: If all the cards you were entitled to draw read “MISS”, you've just missed your buck. You must now put all of your cards on the discard pile. On your next turn, you may resume playing the game by drawing one card.
WOUND: If you have taken all the shots you were entitled to and have not drawn a card reading “KILL”, but at least one of them read “WOUND”, you have wounded your buck. At this point maintain your cards and begin “tracking”.
TRACKING: Continuing on your next turn(s), you draw one card and read the “tracking” information on the very bottom line. Here's what it may read and what to do:
LOST TRACK: This means you've lost your buck's track, or he's lost you. Either way, he's gone for this hunt. All of your cards must be put on the discard pile. You may resume playing by drawing one card on your next turn.
STILL TRACKING: This means you haven't found your wounded buck yet, but are still tracking him. On your next turn, draw another card and check the “tracking” information again.
LOCATED/SHOOT AGAIN: This means you've spotted your wounded buck and may immediately shoot again. Take as many shots as are stated at the top of this same SHOT card. Again, there will be 1 of 3 results: KILL, MISS, or WOUND. If you wounded him again, repeat the tracking process.
FOUND DEAD: Good job! You've successfully tracked your wounded buck and found him dead. Keep your card marked “Found Dead” and all of your BUCK cards for scoring your buck. Then remove these cards from the deck for the rest of the 5 day hunt.
SCORING: By adding up the information across the top of your BUCK cards and adding 100 pounds to the weight, you may begin scoring your buck. But often in deer hunting what you thought you saw is not what you get. Some bucks turn out to be even bigger...and some smaller. At the bottom of your card marked “KILL” or “FOUND DEAD” are the final additions or deductions to your score. These may change your final score by as much as 6 antler points, 36 pounds or 6 DREAM BUCK % points. Once you combine these figures you have your final score. Any buck with a DREAM BUCK % of 80% or bigger is considered record book size. Because the bottom readings are sometimes deductions, this might reduce the antler points below 8. This will not distort the final scoring as long as the buck originally had 8 antler points before you shot.
ENDING OF EACH DAY: When the draw pile runs out of cards, the day is over. At that time no more shots may be taken. Those cards involved in killing any bucks are removed from the deck for the rest of the 5 day hunt. The remaining players must discard all of their cards. This includes any players who are still tracking a wounded buck. All 5 days of hunting end this same way.
NOTE: At any time during play, if any or all players decide they do not wish to finish the balance of the day (draw deck) these players may turn in all cards and then must wait for the beginning of the next day to hunt.
WINNING THE GAME: When the draw pile has been depleted 5 times (or when all players have killed a buck) the season is over, and a DREAM BUCK champion is announced. The winner is the player who killed the buck with the highest DREAM BUCK %. Should there be a tie, the weights will decide the winner. If there is still a tie, the buck with the most antler points wins.
Although it is very difficult to shoot a 100% DREAM BUCK, it is possible. So if it's only “Day 1”, hold off your trigger. #