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Subject: Rules - Open Hand Play rss

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Bob Bob742
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War is a Racket - Maj Gen Smedley Darlington Butler d
Here are the rules for Open Hand Play for DREAM BUCK.
All the rules that come with Dream Buck are now available for those who have lost their rule sheets or picked the game up 2nd-hand but without a rule book.



You'll only get to kill one buck, and then you're out for the rest of the game. So better stalk a big one.

LENGTH OF GAME: Each time the draw pile has been used up another day of hunting is over. When the draw pile has been depleted 5 times (5 days of hunting) the game (season) is over.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The open hand version is designed to be played on two levels. It will be necessary to play the “basic level” first to learn how the cards work with each other. Then add the options of the “advanced level” of the game.


BEGINNING OF DAY 1: Let's begin “Day 1” of our 5 day hunt. After the cards are thoroughly shuffled, deal 5 cards to each player. While you may sometime choose to have less than 5 cards, at no time during the game may any player have more than 5 cards. Place the remaining cards face down in the center of the table. This is the draw pile. When play begins you will take turns drawing and discarding cards. Some cards you need. Others you don't and must get rid of. When you have just the right combination of cards you may shoot at your buck.

The open hand version is played with everyone's cards in full view. Each player should now turn over his cards in front of him and sort them out. There are 4 kinds of cards.

BUCK CARDS: (Possession limit: never more than 4.) These cards must be added up to show you the size of your buck. That is why you will want to collect the best possible combination of them. Of course, you do not have to accept any BUCK cards ever, only if you want to accept them. On individual cards, the antler points range from 2 to 4 points, weights from 4 to 50 pounds, and DREAM BUCK percentages (%) from 4 to 25. How big is your buck? Just add up this information across the top of these cards and add 100 pounds to the weight.

Here's an example:

50 BUCK 25

40 BUCK 20

30 BUCK 15

20 BUCK 10

If during play you had collected these 4 BUCK cards, your buck would be a 13 pointer. He'd weigh 240 pounds, and your DREAM BUCK % would be 70%. (The DREAM BUCK % is a scoring of the buck's antler size. 100% would be a new world record.) As the game continues your buck can continue to grow bigger as you exchange your BUCK cards with ones taken from the draw pile. In this game, you can never reduce the antler size of a buck.

EXCHANGING: Using the example give above, let's say you draw another rare 4 point BUCK card. You would then want to exchange it with one of your 3 point BUCK cards. Thus, your 13 point buck has grown into a 14 pointer. Keep in mind that your BUCK cards form a unit and may only be discarded when being exchanged with better ones. The quickest way to determine the better BUCK card is to compare the weight.

SHOT CARDS: (Possession limit: never more than 1.) These allow you to take from 1 to 4 shots at your buck as long as you have the right combination of other cards. You may not shoot without a SHOT card in your hand.

PROBLEM CARDS: (Possession limit: never more than 1.) These prevent you from using your SHOT cards and shooting at your buck. You must always accept a PROBLEM card when you draw one. If you already have one and draw an additional one, you must keep the new one and discard the old one. If you do not have room in your hand for a PROBLEM card, you must make room, and that will mean you must discard a SHOT card or a REMEDY card. (Remember, you cannot reduce the antler size of a buck.)

(Possession limit: never more than 5.) These remove your PROBLEM cards and thus are always discarded along with them. For instance, let's say that you have a PROBLEM card in your hand and then draw a REMEDY card. You may immediately discard both cards. Or, if you have a REMEDY card and then draw a PROBLEM card, you may immediately discard both cards. REMEDY cards do not have to be played immediately, but may be kept for later use. REMEDY cards also have another use, the DRAW TWO OPTION.

DRAW TWO OPTION: This gives you two chances on the same turn to get the card you really need. Here's how it works. On your turn you must declare to the other players before you draw any cards that you are going to use your “Draw Two Option”. You then discard your REMEDY/DRAW TWO OPTION card and draw your first card. If you don't want it you may draw again. But if the second card drawn is a PROBLEM card you must accept it. This option is especially helpful when the draw pile is getting low and you desperately need a certain card.

You will notice that each card contains a large circle. Just outside of this circle some of the cards have letters, numbers, stars, X's, or arrows. All of this information is for the advanced level and should be ignored for now.

CONTINUING OF DAY 1: Since hunters are typically best prepared on opening day, each player may now discard all of his PROBLEM cards onto a discard pile in the center of the table. This is the only time during the entire 4 day hunt when this is allowed. Players having more than 1 SHOT card may only keep on and must discard all the rest. This may leave players with different numbers of cards. In sequence, each player should now take 1 card from the draw pile. If you have less than 5 cards you may add it to your hand. Or you may keep it and discard another card.

SHOOTING: 3 conditions must be met before you can shoot:
1.Your BUCK cards must add up to at least 8 points.
2.You must have a SHOT card.
3.You must not have any PROBLEM cards.

SPECIAL NOTE: Killing any buck with less than 8 antler points will distort the final score.

When all 3 of these conditions are met you may shoot on your next turn. To do so you must declare to the other players before you draw any cards that you are going to shoot. The way you shoot is by drawing cards one at a time from the draw pile for each of the shots stated on your SHOT card. Check your results at the bottom of those cards drawn. Ignore the information at the top. If any of them read “KILL” at the bottom, stop! Do not draw the remaining cards you were entitled to draw. Simply discard your shot cards and follow the instructions in the proper paragraph below. There can be 3 different results: KILL, MISS, or WOUND.

KILL: As soon as one of the cards you are entitled to draw reads “KILL”, you have bagged your buck. Do not draw any more cards. Keep your “KILL” card and all of your BUCK cards for scoring your buck. Then remove these cards from the deck for the rest of the 5 day hunt. You have been successful, but are now out of the hunt.

MISS: If all of the cards you were entitled to draw read “MISS”, you've just missed your buck. You must now put all of your cards on the discard pile. On your next turn you may resume playing the game by drawing one card.

WOUND: If you have taken all of the shots you were entitled to and have not drawn a card reading “KILL”, but at least one of them read “WOUND”, you have wounded your buck. At this point maintain your cards and begin tracking”.

TRACKING: Continuing on your next turn(s), you draw one card and read the “tracking” information on the very bottom line. Here's what it may read and what to do:

LOST TRACK: This means you've lost your buck's track, or he's lost you. Either way, he's gone for this hunt. All of your cards must be put on the discard pile. You may resume playing by drawing one card on your next turn.

STILL TRACKING: This means you haven't found you wounded buck yet, but are still tracking him. On your next turn, draw another card and check the “tracking” information again.

LOCATED/SHOOT AGAIN: This means you've spotted your wounded buck and may immediately shoot again. Take as many shots as are stated at the top of this same SHOT card. Again, there will only be 1 of 3 results: KILL, MISS, or WOUND. If you wounded him again, repeat the tracking process.

FOUND DEAD: Good job! You've successfully tracked your wounded buck and found him dead. Keep your card marked “Found Dead” and all of your BUCK cards for scoring your buck. Then remove these cards from the deck for the rest of the 5 day hunt.

SCORING: By adding up the information across the top of your BUCK cards and adding 100 pounds to the weight, you may begin scoring your buck. But often in deer hunting what you thought you saw is not what you get. Some bucks turn out to be even bigger...and some smaller. At the bottom of your card marked “KILL” or “FOUND DEAD” are the final additions or deductions to your score. These may change your final score by as much as 6 antler points, 36 pounds, or 6 DREAM BUCK % points. Once you combine these figures you have your final score. Any buck with a DREAM BUCK % of 80% or bigger is considered record size. Because the bottom readings are sometimes deductions, this might reduce the antler points below 8. This will not distort the final scoring as long as the buck originally had 8 antler points before you shot.

ENDING OF ALL 5 DAYS: When the draw pile runs out of cards the day is over. At that time no more shots may be taken. Those cards involved in killing any bucks are removed from the deck for the rest of the 5 day hunt. The remaining players must discard all of their cards. This includes any players who are still tracking a wounded buck. All 5 days of hunting end this same way.

BEGINNING OF DAYS 2, 3, 4, & 5: The game continues with each player drawing one card at a time and resuming play as normal.

WINNING THE GAME: When the draw pile has been depleted 5 times (or when all players have killed a buck) the season is over, and a DREAM BUCK champion is announced. The winner is the player who killed the buck with the highest DREAM BUCK %. Should there be a tie, the weights will decide the winner. If there is still a tie, the buck with the most antler points wins. As you play the basic level, work on developing your game strategy. Although it is very difficult to shoot a 100% DREAM BUCK, it is possible. So if it's only Day 1, hold off your trigger.


By now you've noticed the letters, numbers, stars, X's and arrows just outside of the circle. Here is where additional challenges of the game come in. Add the following options to the game:

BUCK CARDS: (Possession limit: never more than 4.) If 2 or more of your BUCK cards have an “X” on the front of them, your buck, although a safe shot, has become a difficult shot. It may only be shot with a SHOT card that also has an “X”.

SHOT CARDS: (Possession limit: never more than 1.) A SHOT card with a star (*) on it may be used to shoot at your buck even if you have a PROBLEM card but only when you immediately draw it. Otherwise it functions as a regular SHOT card. A SHOT card with an “X” on it may be used to shoot at any buck, difficult or not.

PROBLEM CARDS: (Possession limit: never more than 1 of each of the 3 kinds.) There are now 3 different kinds of PROBLEM cards, each requiring its own kind of REMEDY card.

“P”--Preventable, such as “Equipment Noise”
“E”--Environmental, such as “Wind”
“N”--Non-controllable, such as “Vehicle Noise”

Because there are now 3 different kinds of PROBLEM cards (P, E, N) that you may have to accept, this may mean that you will have to discard more of your valuable cards than you want to. If you have nothing left to discard but your BUCK cards, you must still accept and keep the PROBLEM card. But your buck has just “bolted”. (This will be explained.) If you already have a PROBLEM card marked “N”, for example, and you draw another one marked “N”, you must always discard the old one and keep the new one.

Each PROBLEM card now has a different point value from 1 to 6. Whenever you draw another PROBLEM card that puts your PROBLEM card point total at 10 or more, your buck has just “bolted”.

(Possession limit: never more than 5.) There are now 4 different kinds of REMEDY cards. Each is marked to show the kinds of PROBLEM card it will remove: “P”, “E”, “N”. A REMEDY card marked “All” may be used to remove all of your PROBLEM cards on the same turn.

A REMEDY card with a star (*) on it may be used to do both functions (remove your PROBLEM cards and allow you to draw up to 2 additional cards) but only when you immediately draw it. Otherwise, it functions as a regular REMEDY card.

BOLTING: This means that a PROBLEM card you have drawn has either pushed your PROBLEM card point total to 10 or more, or that you only have BUCK cards to discard. Either way, your buck has just “bolted”, you know, “waved good-bye”. Where? He went to the next player in the direction of the arrow on your newest drawing PROBLEM card. On that player's immediate next turn only he may take a shot at your buck (if he desires to do so) as long as he has a shot card with an “X” on it. If he misses this shot all of his cards and the “bolting” BUCK cards must be discarded. If the player next to you has already killed a buck, or if there is no arrow on your newest drawn PROBLEM card, your buck has bolted into the discard pile. NOTE: When just 2 people are playing, the arrows always mean the buck bolts to the other player. When playing alone, all bucks bolt into the discard pile.

It is hoped that these additional challenges of DREAM BUCK will help you capture the thrill of deer hunting all year long.


Every effort has been made to make the game DREAM BUCK as realistic as possible. However, the laws and regulations governing deer hunting vary significantly from state to state. It is, therefore, not to be assumed that the rules of the game DREAM BUCK are the applicable hunting regulations in your state. You should determine the applicable regulations before hunting in any jurisdiction.
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