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World of Warcraft: The Boardgame» Forums » Variants

Subject: An Alternative Cooperative or Solo Variant rss

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Tom Scutt
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Cooperative Rules for World of Warcraft
Tom Scutt (Steerpike) 31/12/2005 – tom.scutt@virgin.net
Had trouble getting the formatting right - will post as a PDF or Word doc if people are interested. Any feedback would be much appreciated.

Set up:

Draw 1 green quest, 1 grey quest, and an additional grey quest for each character (e.g. if you’re playing with three characters you’ll end up with 1 green quest and 4 grey). Set up these quests as normal.
Then draw the same number (and colour) of quests from the opposing faction’s quest cards. Leave these quests face up near the board. For each of these opposing faction quests drawn, set up any independent creatures (if applicable), but do not set up any quest creatures.

Changes to Turn Structure:
In the Advance Turn Marker step at the End of Faction Turn, move the turn marker two spaces (trigger event/item icons moved over as well as those landed on) …if the marker is advanced to/over the “End” space, the players have lost.

Between the Advance Turn Marker step and the Event Card/Merchant Check, there is now an Upkeep Step as follows:

1. Roll a number of d8 equal to the number of characters. For each die showing a 1, remove an item at random from the merchant deck.
2. Roll a d8 for each of the opposing faction’s quest cards. If the die shows a 1, remove the independent creatures for that quest from the board (if they’re still there) and remove the quest card. Replace it with a quest from the next colour up (e.g. if you remove a green card, replace it with a yellow).
3. Roll a d8 for any of the following events that are still active – Bounty, Subterfuge, and the various War events (and possibly the Boss events if you want to play the more challenging ending variant, detailed below). If the die shows a 1, discard the card – the quest has failed. The section on Event Cards details what happens for each even when it is removed in this way.

Event Cards:
Most of the event cards can be left unchanged. For cards that offer different rewards depending on whether the faction is the stronger or the weaker faction, always treat the characters as belonging to the stronger faction. The cards that do need to be changed are as follows:

Auctions: Each of the characters makes a blind bid for the item; all bids are revealed then make a 2d8 roll for the opposing faction’s bid. Remove the card from the game if the opposing faction wins.

(Variant): Roll a d8 and add 2 – remember this result. Each of the characters then makes a blind bid for the item; all bids are revealed. Roll another d8 and add it to the earlier result – this is the opposing faction’s bid. Remove the card from the game if the opposing faction wins. This variant gives the player more information about the opposing bid, but raises the price somewhat.

Beasts of Lordaeron: Starting with the player’s faction, each faction may move one group of blue creatures up to two regions. Continue until both factions have moved two groups of creatures. The player’s faction uses the rules given on the card for moving creatures. The opposing faction moves creatures as follows:

Move the blue group which is closest* to a player’s character up to two regions towards that character (it is permissible to move blue creatures into player character’s region, but the other movement restrictions given on the card still apply). If tied for being closest, move the group closest to the weakest* character/group. If still tied move the most powerful* group of blue creatures.

*Closest: Don’t count creatures that are already in the same region as characters. Creatures that are one or two regions away count as being equally close (because they can both reach the characters).

*Weakest: Count up the XP for each group (which may be just a single character) of characters - the weakest group is the one with the lowest total XP.

*Powerful: Add up the Health of the group. The group with the highest total is the most powerful (e.g. a single Spider, with a Health of 9 is more powerful than two Gnolls with a total Health of 8).

Subterfuge: The player’s faction may complete any of the opposing faction’s quests. It is up to you whether you put the quest creatures out on the board, or just mark the regions with the opposing faction’s quest tokens. In either case remember to remove the quest creatures and/or tokens when Subterfuge is discarded.

Success: If you complete the opposing faction’s quest, remember that you get 1 fewer XP than stated on the Quest card. Replace the opposing faction’s quest card with a quest from the next colour up.

Failure (when a 1 is rolled for this card’s upkeep): Randomly choose one of your active Quest cards and remove it, then replace it with a new Quest from a Quest deck of your choice.

War Event Cards: Put a War Token in each region as specified in the rules. On top of each of these two tokens place the appropriate (green) creature* for the game turn. If at any stage the player’s faction simultaneously has characters in both regions listed on the card and both the War Event creatures have been defeated, then the players have succeeded.

*Appropriate Creature: For the purposes of choosing the appropriate creature, Murloc is 1, Gnoll 2, Ghoul 3 and so on down to the Infernal, which is 13. Divide the current game turn by 2 (round down), and that gives you the appropriate creature to use (e.g. if you’re on turn 21, use Ogres). Obviously, you should use Infernals for anything after turn 25.

Although normal combat is used, fighting these creatures counts as PvP, which means that (a) any character killed while fighting them loses a random bag item, (b) if the player’s defeat it they draw a card from the appropriate item deck*, and (c) whether the players win or lose it will trigger the effects of any active Old Hatreds event card.

If there are not enough models available to spawn the correct creature, use the next one down in the ranking (e.g. If there are no green Gnolls available, spawn a green Murloc instead)

*Appropriate Item Deck: Up to and including turn 13 this is the white square deck, from turn 14 to 22 it’s the blue triangle deck, and from turn 23 onwards it’s the purple circle deck.

Success: You have won the war event and gain the rewards listed on the card for the Stronger faction.

Failure (when a 1 is rolled for this card’s upkeep): No effect.

Bounty: Choose a player’s character at random, and place their token on the card. Now choose an appropriate (red) creature (using all the rules detailed above) and place it in the opposing faction’s home region (and stand it on a Point of Interest Token). This counts as the chosen opposing faction character. Now roll a d8 to see where it goes to:

1-2: Stays where it is
3-4: Moves to the next opposing faction flight icon clockwise
5-6: Moves to the opposing faction flight icon ‘opposite’
7-8: Moves to the next opposing faction flight icon anti-clockwise

Repeat this roll every Upkeep Step.

Of course you cannot fight the creature while it is in the opposing faction's home region!
Success: If you kill the creature, gain the rewards as shown on the card.

Failure (when a 1 is rolled for this card’s upkeep, or if the chosen player character is killed while fighting the opposing faction character): No effect.

Old Hatreds: This is now triggered by fighting the creatures created by War or Bounty cards. If a character is killed during any of these fights, the card is simply discarded. If one of the creatures is killed, then the group killing it gain the benefits listed on the card for the Stronger faction.

Boss Event Cards: (Optional) You don’t have to change these cards, but the following changes are suggested to make the game more interesting and challenging. For Spectral Revenge after all characters have placed half their gold on the card, add an equal amount from the bank. For Zaeldarr the Outcast, after all characters have placed their items on the card, place an equal number of items by drawing from the equivalent item decks (i.e. for each blue item the players have placed, draw a card from the blue deck).

Success: As listed on the card.

Failure (when a 1 is rolled for this card’s upkeep): Discard any items/gold on the card, and place it on the Overlord card. When the characters fight the Overlord, It will fight alongside the Overlord as a Threat 7 creature.

Overlords:
Overlord stats are scaled to the number of characters (n) as follows:

Kel’Thuzad: Threat: 7, Attack: 7 * n, Health: 9 * n
Lord Kazzak: Threat: 7, Attack: 8 * n, Health: 11 * n
Nefarian: Threat: 7, Attack: 6 * n, Health: 13 * n

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Mikko Karvonen
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Not being able to bring myself to do anything useful today, I thought I'd give your variant a solo-run (how's that for a saturday night? Am I being geeky or what?).

Shortly put: I liked it a lot. It keeps things simple, making few subtle and easily implemented changes to the rules, and manages to create an enjoyable soloing experience. I got all the good stuff of the game: the character development, the nice combat system and the tough decisions on what risks were worth taking. And without the opposing faction to drag things down, I played through the whole game in less than two hours, including several rulechecks, so in a way soloing actually makes the game more enjoyable, which is kinda amusing.

Unfortunately I did not get to test most of the Events, since only Bounty and couple Bosses came up. Bounty worked pretty nicely, as it actually affected my plans during two turns, yet kept things very simple. Bosses I forgot to keep track of at some point of the game, so they weren't around in the final battle, but I'm not sure your variant works when soloing. As it is, some bosses actually end up being tougher than the Overlord in the final fight!

One detail that might need touching: You might want to make items disappear from Market Deck bit more often. At least during solo-play it became relevant very, very rarely. Maybe rolling # of players + 1 dices would work better?

Nevertheless, a fun way to implement soloing and a rather good reason to dust off WoW: the Boardgame for a quickish fantasy adventure.
 
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Steve Thomas
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I have seen three different solo variants for this great game. I have only tried one of them (which was not this one) and I have to say this one perhaps looks the best after reading through it. It really changes the least amount of the rules, including spawning blue creatures and still gives you a true sense of what many of the quests are about with the wars and bounties and things. Besides the comment above mine, has anyone else tried these or the other three. I'm not trying to debate who has made a better variant, I give LOTS of credit to anyone crafty enough to devise a solo rule set for this game - I just would like to see what others think about these sets, especially this one here! Thanks, in advance!
 
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Tim Fiscus
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I played through the game using this variant today and quite enjoyed myself (despite losing to an unlucky Turn 17 Nefarian). These rules are interesting, well thought-out, and tight. Additionally, I found no problems when incorporating the Expansion. Kudos and thanks!
 
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Jay Cadiramen
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So, this solo variant definitely works with the expansions? The reason I ask is because I am considering buy World of Warcraft: The Boardgame to play purely as a single player game.
 
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Roger Knowles
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I don't think it works,as is,with the Burning Crusade because of the unlimited game time.If you play forever,you can't lose.


bikerboy
 
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Scott Lewis
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bikerboy wrote:
I don't think it works,as is,with the Burning Crusade because of the unlimited game time.If you play forever,you can't lose.

I don't have the Burning Crusade (the game is actually my brother's, and I'm just borrowing it), but couldn't you set some sort of arbitrary limit, like twice through the turn track or something?
 
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