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Subject: Opinions on painting the models and playability rss

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Jarrett Lee
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Hi everyone,

I'm a painter far more than a gamer - and although I want to paint my Zombicide set (and have been actively painting Super Dungeon Explore + Expansions) I wanted to get some opinions on one aspect of it:

- from a painting and modeling perspective, a person would typically want to paint all these zombies with a lot of variety in colors, tones, blood vs no blood etc...

- so that was my plan...

- but then it occurred to me: this is a board game, not a tabletop wargame or hobby showcase. From a playability standpoint: do you think it would actually be smarter to paint all the zombies of a certain type *the same way, same colors*? So for example, all the runners might be wearing blue hoodies, or all the walkers wearing tan pants - that kind of thing. Then of course you get the variety from the survivors all having nicer, more unique paint jobs.

It strikes me that once a lot of zombies are on the board, it might be easier to understand the situation visually if the zombie types were distinguished in groups and it wasn't just a chaotic mass of colors?

What do you guys think?

Best regards,

Jarrett Lee
www.minijunkie.com
 
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David Douglas
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I plan on painting the figure bases differently to distinguish types so I can still do cool paint jobs on the figures themselves and still have the game be quickly playable.
 
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Barry Hood
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Orangecoke wrote:
Hi everyone,

I'm a painter far more than a gamer - and although I want to paint my Zombicide set (and have been actively painting Super Dungeon Explore + Expansions) I wanted to get some opinions on one aspect of it:

- from a painting and modeling perspective, a person would typically want to paint all these zombies with a lot of variety in colors, tones, blood vs no blood etc...

- so that was my plan...

- but then it occurred to me: this is a board game, not a tabletop wargame or hobby showcase. From a playability standpoint: do you think it would actually be smarter to paint all the zombies of a certain type *the same way, same colors*? So for example, all the runners might be wearing blue hoodies, or all the walkers wearing tan pants - that kind of thing. Then of course you get the variety from the survivors all having nicer, more unique paint jobs.

It strikes me that once a lot of zombies are on the board, it might be easier to understand the situation visually if the zombie types were distinguished in groups and it wasn't just a chaotic mass of colors?

What do you guys think?

Best regards,

Jarrett Lee
www.minijunkie.com


I know some people get around this by having the bases a specific colour (blue = walkers, yellow = runners, orange = fatties, red = abomination). I've also seen some people do a similar thing except they'll just paint stripes of colour on the base rather than colouring the whole base (to look like parking restriction lines etc), both are quite neat ideas to get around the issue.

Really at this point picking out runners is the only real problem (fatties and abominations stand out anyway). You could just paint the runners in brighter colours so they stand out from the crowd (lots of runners wear brighter colours anyway so they're more visible to traffic in poor light).
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Ken K
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I have a vision for my horde, though no plan survives the first encounter with a paintbrush:

Walkers will be a very muted, almost black and white, a la Night of the Living Dead (1968)

Fatties are all the colors of a bruise, Dawn of the Dead

Runners will have a "hotter," bright colors: 28 Days Later

I'd like Abominations to be dark with an inner glow of power, like the dead in Re-Animator. Is there a way to wash with a fluorescent yellow-green?

I am a total noob painter so am I being a little too ambitious?



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Rick S
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I painted all of mine differently, It is not that hard to distinguish the different types... I did paint the runners with a different color base, because they have a different movement.

With that said, it would be easier to paint each sculp the same way. This would also make it easier to keep track of them.

I would also like to add that i have brought this up with the people i play with and they say "i made the right choice with my painting scheme".

Search for my "custom abomination" thread if you want to see my set.

Good luck.
zombie
 
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Jonah Rees
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I like you am a painter before a gamer although I do game a lot (although I've had lapses of years where I do not game but continue painting) who is also painting my way through SDE at the moment (Shameless PLOG plug here). Are you my Doppelgänger?! My plan for Zombicide is to batch paint them in batches of about 10-12 because as you state they are for a board game not a miniatures game. The detail on them isn't as crisp as a lot of other miniature games nor some board games including SDE. It is easy enough to differentiate them from the miniatures so it is up to you how you paint the clothes and I would vary it up a bit. You do get a lot of zombies so you could paint each batch with the same clothes (maybe mix it up a tiny bit) which would be quickest and once you finish the whole set then there would be enough variation.
 
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Freelance Police
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You can differentiate the walkers from the other types by painting the tops of the bases. (After all, you're going to look at the zombies most of the time from above and at an angle, not three inches away at eye level.) I painted the walker bases grey concrete, and other zombie bases black asphalt with texture paint (just craft paint and baking soda).

From looking at Zombicide pics, IMO, different colors on a zombie result in too many clashing colors in zombie mobs, so, yes, having all zombies of the same time dress similar is practical.

Here's a game in progress with painted miniatures. Can you tell how many runners are in the last picture?
http://zombicidedk.blogspot.com/2013/02/zombicide-second-gam...

See also: Cool Mini or Not's Zombicide sub-forum.

If you come up with a "quick and dirty" way to paint these miniatures for tabletop play, please do post a tutorial!
 
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Jarrett Lee
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Yep we must be on the same wavelength Jonah!

SO - I got started...

My goal is basically this:

- A bit of uniformity to the various zombie types (so fatties look quite similar to each other) while mixing in visual variety via gore and filth.

- Relatively bright models for board-gaming - I want them to pop a bit and not be muddy blobs on the boards.

- FAST. This is important - I just have less and less painting time as I get older (and my kids get older...) so I strive for something that looks awesome at arms length for a boardgame etc but doesn't really stand up to close scrutiny.

- One tip: despite trying to go fast, it's worth putting in just a little bit of extra time on faces, because that is where the eye is naturally drawn to on a model. It's also worth spending more time on the hero models because when people play they want their character to look more awesome than a walker




For this guy, what I did was:

- Cleaned him (and his buddies) in my ultrasonic cleaner with some Dawn anti-grease detergent. Toothbrush would work too

- Minimal mold line cleaning - not worth the effort for a large number of board game pieces in my opinion, *except* on tops of shoulders and head where they would be particularly noticeable and detract from the look too much.

- Primed Vallejo Grey. Black would probably result in these models being too dark imo. White is another option of course.

- Airbrushed Tamiya Red Brown on the jacket and shoes, Tamiya Medium Blue on the legs, GW Ceramite White on the belly and chest, GW Pallid Wych Flesh on the skin, and GW XV-88 on the gloves. NOTE: you could substitute any paint brands and shades here - the main idea is to pick lighter tones that will stand up to a wash. I think the jacket could still have been lighter. I also felt like really bright primary colors would be a bit garish so I went more neutral. I like his jeans.

- Washed the jacket, shoes and gloves with Secret Weapon Miniatures wash Sewer Water. Shirt washed with SWM Soft Body Black (and wiped off a bit with finger). Pants washed with SWM Blue Black.

- The skin was a special case - I washed it with SWM Stone - which is a sort of greenish grey. But I didnt just put it on - I then wiped it off quickly (from the highest surfaces like shoulders, head etc) with my fingertip.

- Some additional highlights on the face (double chin, nose, cheeks) with GW Pallid Wych Flesh.

- I washed the mouth with GW Carrousburg (sp??) Crimson and the eyes with Leviathan Purple.

- Picked out teeth with Ceramite White.

- Base was GW Eshin Grey, then "stippled/smeared" with GW Dawnstone, and edged in black.

For the washes I was using a hairdryer to avoid pooling and running while not having to siphon up much of the wash with a brush.

- Then a hit with Testors Dull Coat

- Next step for most of these will be to hit them with some gore, which I have not done yet. I will create the gore/blood using Tamiya Clear Red and a bit of black paint mixed in to darken it (gore and dried blood is often really dark!).

UPDATE: here's the rest. I'm not totally satisfied with the gore effect and plan to keep tweaking the recipe



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Jarrett Dunn
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Orangecoke wrote:


UPDATE: here's the rest. I'm not totally satisfied with the gore effect and plan to keep tweaking the recipe





What I am doing for my gore is to actually drybrush/smear a bit of black and dark brown before doing the red over it, and at times washing the red with a really thinned out black and dark brown. I'm using dried blood and scab pictures as my basis as blood when it dries, while red, also has a very dark brown/black component to it as well where it is thicker.

i.e.:


 
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Barry Hood
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Thanks for sharing gulp
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Jarrett Lee
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Here's the first set of walkers. I realize now I kinda got grey spray on their feet...oh well, these guys can wear grey shoes I guess! Again - fast, good enough for gaming etc. I also tweaked the gore so that it's a bit more multi-toned (between bright and dark reds).

Obviously I'm painting all the models of a certain pose at the same time. Also it doesn't show clearly in the image but I did vary the colors...a bit

I started painting Josh and he's already well along and looking really cool

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Jarrett Dunn
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delinear wrote:
Thanks for sharing gulp


Just doing my part for the team bubba. Glad I can help .
 
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Jarrett Lee
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I cranked out Josh this afternoon as well, he took no time at all (except for the fiddly little Guillotine Games symbol on his shirt). Now, you can see something in the photo that has me quite annoyed: he's shiny. That's after a gloss coat followed by dull coat x 2 layers. Sometimes I find dull coat goes on shiny and then stubbornly refuses to un-shine even with further applications. I even tried some brush on Vallejo matte varnish - nothing. So I'm irked because I'm quite pleased with how the paintjob turned out. His face is a bit mongloid looking but the sculpt kinda was too

You can see how I plan to do survivor bases - leaving their color as a band around the base rim.

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Thiago Aranha
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If the dull coat refuses to un-shine him, why do you apply the gloss coat in the first place?
 
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Jarrett Lee
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I usually don't - in this case, I put it on so I could paint the GG symbol over gloss (that way if make a mistake can easily wipe it off quickly). Also I have read it's a good idea for game pieces that will see heavy use. Usually the dull coat works over gloss, I'm not sure why this was an exception. I may try another brand of matte sealer over this.
 
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bob bob
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looks good-I hate it when dull coat goes on shiny...got a solution that might help. Get some dullcote in a bottle and airbrush it on. Works every time on stubborn models that refuse to dull.
 
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Jarrett Dunn
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Orangecoke wrote:
I cranked out Josh this afternoon as well, he took no time at all (except for the fiddly little Guillotine Games symbol on his shirt). Now, you can see something in the photo that has me quite annoyed: he's shiny. That's after a gloss coat followed by dull coat x 2 layers. Sometimes I find dull coat goes on shiny and then stubbornly refuses to un-shine even with further applications. I even tried some brush on Vallejo matte varnish - nothing. So I'm irked because I'm quite pleased with how the paintjob turned out. His face is a bit mongloid looking but the sculpt kinda was too

You can see how I plan to do survivor bases - leaving their color as a band around the base rim.



OK have to ask because mine looks all jacked up (well from a distance it looks good, but up close), what was the secret to doing the Guillotine Games logo? I tried using a precise detail brush but while it looks "similar" to yours (from a distance) it just doesn't have the detail yours does.

Edit: BTW compliment your parents for me on their choice of name .
 
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Jarrett Lee
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Thanks

Thanks for the tip bob bob I'll try that!

Jarrett, for the symbol I was in some fear trying to do something so small...

- gloss coated as mentioned, so I could wipe away mistake(s)
- drew the circle on really slowly with a black Micron Pigma Pen .005
- filled in the circle with black paint
- added a slight line in black to the top of the circle, where the guilottine top would be
- painted the lines in white
- tidied up the whole thing with white/black touch ups. Such as adding black dot where the whole for the head is on the bottom of the apparatus
- held my breath the whole time, to steady my hand
 
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Jarrett Lee
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Someone posted on my blog to try a coat of Vallejo Matte Medium (NOT varnish) and it worked quite well to take down the shine.

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Jarrett Lee
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Here's Phil! Really pleased with how he turned out (photos don't do justice to how it looks when they are "in play" in a board gaming situation) It does occur to me, however, that my survivors are decidedly gore-free, and actually overall very clean. Like freshly showered and laundered zombie apocalypse participants. That said, I'm kinda basing the paint jobs (ok not just "kinda" - pretty much completely) on the survivor images from the game cards.

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Jonah Rees
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Very nice. Nothing to stop you dirtying up the survivors as well.
 
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bob bob
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love your paints!
 
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Jarrett Dunn
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bobdaxx wrote:
love your paints!


At first I thought that said "Love your pants"

Anyways found a good tut on painting blood here:

http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2010/05/tutorial-how-to-pa...

the bottom one is the one I did (using Tamiya Clear Red) and it worked fabulous... really does have the consistency of blood. I'll get some pics up when I get home.
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After much deliberation, I've decided to paint all of my "vanilla" zombies with black bases, as seen in the attached pic.

I'm not to concerned with telling the difference between fatties, walkers and runners. They're largely different molds, pretty easy to distinguish at a glance.

My concern is in Sept. when my Season 2 w/ Toxic City Mall arrives. I'll paint the "vanillas" from those sets with black bases as well.

I'll paint the toxic zombies with green bases, and the Berzerker zombies with red bases, mimicking the default colors of each.

Without some bright distinguishing feature, I think painting the toxics and berzerkers will present a huge game play slow down, because the molds will likely be more difficult to distinguish between each type, ie. Toxic walker vs. Vanilla walker.
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Curtis Delaney
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Jarret,

Your fatty eyes look amazing!

What's your secret? I've tried so many different brushes, and I cannot find a way to get a decent amount of color on that little eye "bump" without either smearing it all over the place or not getting enough to pop like yours.
 
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