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Subject: Painting MYTH rss

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Itai Rosenbaum
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So, like many, I'd like to paint once it shows up on my doorstep.

I've never painted minis before. I'd like to use the next 8 months to get my skills up to snuff so that once MYTH arrives, I can actually do something that looks nice.

I've got Mansions of Madness which doesn't get much play time (it's a broken game, and I'm not a huge fan of the 1 vs. Many), so I figured I could use the minis from there to learn and practice. Then when Z-cide 2 and Rivet Wars show up in October, I'll have tons of figures to really hone my skills on. By the time MYTH arrives - I'll be a pro!

Anywho - could anyone point me to where I can learn. I know there are books, but I'd rather start with free online resources. I know nothing, so throw everything you got at me.

Thanks!
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martin jorra
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http://www.thearmypainter.com/

look at the tutorials

fast

efficient

good looking
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There are tons of tutorials out there, both commercial professional quality and quality amateur stuff.

Some resources to check out:

Professional tutorials:
http://miniaturementor.com/
http://www.coolminiornot.com/shop/hot-lead-3-dvd-set.html

Some free resources:
http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?3-Paint...

http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/forum/3-painting-...

http://handcannononline.com/

http://www.youtube.com/user/awesomepaintjob?feature=watch

http://buypainted.com/

http://privateerpressforums.com/forumdisplay.php?6-Miniature...

Of course there are many others, but those are some of my favorites.
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Donny Behne
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Army Painter is definitely your best choice for getting stuck in. It uses really simple techniques that look good from the table. Obviously, if you pick up the model and scrutinize it you can see the flaws, but we aren't necessarily looking for that kind of work!

The best thing you can do is just start. Your hand will be jittery to begin with until the muscles you need start to build up. Eventually you'll be dotting eye balls like a pro. Keep it simple, too. When I first started I got really frustrated because it didn't look like the minis painted by GW pros and I didn't want anything less. Eventually I learned to manage my expectations and I'm very happy with what I've produced over the years.
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Itai Rosenbaum
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Thanks.

I'd also like to find out about things that aren't necessarily fast. I don't mind putting the time and effort into it...
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Matt Barnes
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I know this isn't a professional guide or anything, but I have painted quite a bit of miniatures. I made up a small guide with the Claustrophobia miniatures I painted a while back.

Here is the link: http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/689144/repainted-miniatures-...

The techniques of dry brushing, washing and overall shading are the main things you need to practice. Once you nail that down, you can really start getting your miniatures looking amazing. Then again, you also have to decide on the style you are aiming for (realistic, comic book style, etc.).

Best of luck and let me know if you have any questions. I can't wait to start painting these up, tired of the lower quality stuff I have been painting lately. As others have said, I would highly recommend just jumping into it. That is really how you learn how to do it and you can learn/look up new techniques as you go. My guide is pretty basic, but is a pretty good guideline to follow for starting out.
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This is another exceptional tutorial dvd that I had to import from France when I got my copy, but comes in multiple languages on the dvd:
http://www.figone.fr/en/double-dvd-pal-sec-5-langues/
 
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Josh Derksen
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Looks like you're set for tutorials, so I thought I might give you some tips on tools that I wish I had known about when I started regularly painting miniatures last summer:


1) Get a good brush(es).
You want natural, not synthetic, and Sable is probably the way to go. Winsor Newton or Escoda make very good quality brushes with excellent hold, flow and shape. I'd recommend a Size 0 or 1 for details and probably a 2 for covering larger areas quickly or doing your base colours where precision doesn't matter so much. Saves you time. For miniatures you won't need much else.

Good brushes are a small investment up front–the Size 1 will be about $10-12 at a good art supply shop (and the 2 will be a little more)–but if taken care of, these will last you forever. This brings me to my next point:


2) Clean your brushes promptly & thoroughly when finished.
Get this stuff: http://www.dickblick.com/products/the-masters-brush-cleaner-...; the $5 size will last a long time.

Rinse your brushes in cool water and swirl them gently in this soap. Repeat a couple times until they rinse clear, then gently reshape the bristles into a fine point with your fingers and let the brush air dry with the bristles upright. A pencil holder works well for this.


3) An exception:
These expensive brushes are great for doing any kind of blending, washes or detail work. If you're doing drybrushing however, you can use pretty much any other brush - just get a cheap one with stiff bristles because the drybrushing technique is hard on the brush fibers and will wreck a good brush pretty quickly.

Total Investment: $25, maybe?
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Matt Price
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The single thing that took my painting from "eh, yer pretty good" to "wow" was the optivisor.

Certainly check out all those links above and have some fun, but this thing made quite the difference in how well I painted AND made it soooo much easier to paint details, keep within the borders of whatever I was painting, and keep my hands steady (that last bit was a surprise to me, actually)

Pretty cheap to pick one up, and I think the best thing I've bought since I started painting again 7 years ago!
 
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Korey Jackson
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And here's a nice step-by-step geeklist for the 'dip' method. I've used it before for HeroQuest minis and it works well--especially for assembly-line-style painting...and anything you want to look playable good, but not competition good.
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nodjmet

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Ooo right now I wish I had copied that comment from the comments on ks. I personally haven't painted minis but recall a person suggesting the plastic from privateer press does well after a good soaking and scrubbing as the plastic is almost lile resin. I am thinking of picking up some f those styleplastics soon so I can see what tthey were talking about. Practicing makes perfect but practicing on the type of plastic is ideal as each may have subtle differences in what painting techniques to develop. I could be wrong but that was my take back when I was duing art classes and I'm sure ittranslates to minis as well

Edit: Found that quote as it had stuff on glue for this plastic as well
Joe Somers about 8 hours ago

@Samuel Ahn

Miniatures prep and painting is really simple. While it's sort of a hobby unto-itself, it's definitely a good thing to immerse yourself in. If they come separate, then yes, superglue would be needed.

I think I've read that the plastic they are using is the same as Privateer Press's plastic, which really benefits from a good wash and soaking prior to painting. It's closer to resin. Superglue works well with it, but plastic modelling glue not so much.

As far as the painting goes, it's up to you. Painting them already attached gives you something to hold onto while you paint, though some details may be difficult to reach (I'm thinking like...the underbellies of the spiders). Though, I'm not sure how much you really care about spider underbellies. I like have bases separate so I can fully detail them with textured flock and other basing materials
 
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Eric Foldenauer
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kbjack wrote:
And here's a nice step-by-step geeklist for the 'dip' method. I've used it before for HeroQuest minis and it works well--especially for assembly-line-style painting...and anything you want to look playable good, but not competition good.
I've been looking for my dip... whistle
 
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Korey Jackson
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fograsher wrote:
I've been looking for my dip... whistle

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If you want cheap miniatures to practice on, then the "bones" plastic miniatures from reaper are nice: http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Bones though not exactly the same material I don't think.

P3 makes some great models, but are more expensive. You can get the Hordes or Warmachine 2 player plastic starter sets for a decent price though which gives the rules and all the pieces needed to play a basic 2 player game:

http://privateerpress.com/hordes/gallery/starter-products/ho... which is warlocks controlling giant beasts
or
http://privateerpress.com/warmachine/gallery/two-player-batt... which is steam punk style casters controlling mech like warjacks.

Both of which give you models to practice on and a 2 player game.

Both of which can be found for less than MSRP at online dealers like Amazon or coolstuffinc.com
 
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Matt Barnes
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lucerian wrote:
Ooo right now I wish I had copied that comment from the comments on ks. I personally haven't painted minis but recall a person suggesting the plastic from privateer press does well after a good soaking and scrubbing as the plastic is almost lile resin. I am thinking of picking up some f those styleplastics soon so I can see what tthey were talking about. Practicing makes perfect but practicing on the type of plastic is ideal as each may have subtle differences in what painting techniques to develop. I could be wrong but that was my take back when I was duing art classes and I'm sure ittranslates to minis as well

I wouldn't worry about the type of plastic so much. Of course, you should wash your mini's before you ever start painting, to get all the residue off them from getting them out of the molds during production.

But priming your miniatures is key to getting the paint to stick and go on well. Depending on what you are doing, primer can also help a lot with the painting process. Also remember that acrylic paint is somewhat translucent, so if you prime with black, your models will look darker, white will be much lighter. And they even have base coats and primers that are colored, to help with the initial steps of the base coat.

Once a model is primed, I never noticed a difference between crappy plastic, resin, resin-like plastic or metal. The only differences will be the detail level, really.
 
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Chad Caughmann
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MattVid wrote:
Once a model is primed, I never noticed a difference between crappy plastic, resin, resin-like plastic or metal. The only differences will be the detail level, really.


I agree with Matt. You are painting onto the primer, not the material of the mini. What is under the primer is largely irrelevant during the painting process.
 
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Itai Rosenbaum
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Thank you all. I have a lot of reading and watching ahead of me

2 further questions:

1. Can anyone recommend a good series of YouTube tutorials or a channel that covers this stuff?

2. What paints are you guys using? From the small bit of research I've started doing, I'm leaning towards Vallejo, as people seem to like them...

Surprise question 3. Can anyone point me to an online retailer that has a wide variety and reasonable international shipping for paint and such?
 
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IronSyndicate wrote:
2. What paints are you guys using?


Uh oh...this question often derails into a flame war. The first and most important question is this: are you already a talented painter? If the answer is "no", then you are probably wasting your money buying anything more expensive than the craft paints at Walmart (Apple Barrel and Folk Art). You will get more mileage out of spending your money on a good brush than you will on expensive paints.

I've been painting for about 10-12 years, and I've used a variety of brands. What I've found is that my results didn't look any different when using the Walmart paints than when I was using the so called "premium" hobby paints.

One of the biggest things to know is that each brand takes getting used to, but the final results are largely the same. Nearly all professional mini painters thin their paints to a consistency that can be achieved by pretty much any brand...it just takes more or less of a thinning agent (like water).
 
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Jonah Rees
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thetang22 wrote:
IronSyndicate wrote:
2. What paints are you guys using?


Uh oh...this question often derails into a flame war. The first and most important question is this: are you already a talented painter? If the answer is "no", then you are probably wasting your money buying anything more expensive than the craft paints at Walmart (Apple Barrel and Folk Art). You will get more mileage out of spending your money on a good brush than you will on expensive paints.

I've been painting for about 10-12 years, and I've used a variety of brands. What I've found is that my results didn't look any different when using the Walmart paints than when I was using the so called "premium" hobby paints.

One of the biggest things to know is that each brand takes getting used to, but the final results are largely the same. Nearly all professional mini painters thin their paints to a consistency that can be achieved by pretty much any brand...it just takes more or less of a thinning agent (like water).


I'm not familiar with Walmart craft paints but I would suggest getting actual acrylic hobby paints (not sure what you consider premium paints).

As to which brand is the best that is completely subjective and different people have different preferences. I have been painting a long time and I use a combination of Citadel (GW), Vallejo and P3 (Privateer Press) as I find that there are very often differences within the ranges with some colours better than others. For a new painter the Citadel Base paints and Shades are excellent so I would suggest getting some of those if you can.
 
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Chad Caughmann
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jonahmaul wrote:
I'm not familiar with Walmart craft paints but I would suggest getting actual acrylic hobby paints (not sure what you consider premium paints).


The underlined part is the main problem with paint selection in this hobby...most people aren't even aware there's other options than Vallejo, Reaper, P3, Army Painter, etc... These are what I call "premium" paints. I call them that because over the years I've seen people who know close to nothing about painting swear by these brands and cut down less expensive options out of some sense of eliteness. Most of these people use the brands they are currently using strictly because it's what someone else told them was the right choice...not because they've tried out a variety of things and found out for themselves.

The paints I am talking about from Walmart are "actual acrylic hobby paints"...they just cost a hell of a lot less than all the premium paints I talked about. They typically don't have as much pigment per ounce...but like I said, most experienced painters thin their paint down anyway, so that's kind of a moot point. The bottles from Walmart are also considerably larger than the "premium" brands, in addition to being considerably cheaper.

For a point of reference, I painted this miniature strictly with Apple Barrel and Folk Art paints from Walmart:



The point I'm making is that, you can get good results from the cheaper paints just like you can with the more expensive paints. At the end of the day, why would you pay $3/bottle if you could get the same results with a $0.50-1.00 bottle???
 
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Jonah Rees
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I am not refuting your point! As I said I am not familiar with the paints you've mentioned as we don't have Walmart in the UK and I've not heard of those paints. The problem is that a lot of 'craft' paints are poor quality acrylics used for children's painting or thick stuff in tubes; neither of which is good to work with as beginners so they need to be avoided. If you can get decent quality paints for cheaper then you absolutely definitely should.

Like I said, I wouldn't swear by any brands and like you would disagree with anybody who suggests that one brand is better than another. The paints within brands can be so different (I've got P3 Cyngus and Sulfuric yellow and the Sulfuric is awesome and the Cungus terrible!) that it's best to try out the different brands as much as possible and then choose the ones that you feel most comfortable with.

Nice miniature too.
 
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IronSyndicate wrote:

I've never painted minis before. I'd like to use the next 8 months to get my skills up to snuff so that once MYTH arrives, I can actually do something that looks nice.


I can't offer the same kinds of tips that others have already suggested, as I too just started painting minis about a month ago -- after picking up the first Zombicide game.

For me, I think working through two trays of identical monsters was of value as it allowed me to practice the same figures over and over again. I also own Mansions of Madness, but I haven't touched them yet for painting.

I think you're on the right track and based on what I learned, I'd definitely recommend starting with some type of zombie figure first. Now matter how awful you think your paint job looks, a quick dip in wood stain fixes all problems.

But really, it's just getting over that initial "hump" where you think you're going to ruin everything. Pick three or four colors and just start painting. When something doesn't look right or doesn't seem to be working, come back for more help or find an answer online by searching.

Good luck.
 
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Here is another good beginner article to check out: http://handcannononline.com/blog/2012/09/10/a-beginners-guid...
And a good discussion on some of the most popular brushes:
http://handcannononline.com/blog/2012/04/27/kolinsky-sable-p...
And one of many useful YouTube options:
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jvLq9qwWY0Y&feature=relmfu
http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=fvwrel&v=hQsxeGnaH24
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=veWkEmP_qzE&feature=relmfu
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uAlA3thzef4&feature=relmfu
http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=relmfu&v=E6rrGM-Zpw4
 
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Jonah Rees
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Phantom Load wrote:
IronSyndicate wrote:

I've never painted minis before. I'd like to use the next 8 months to get my skills up to snuff so that once MYTH arrives, I can actually do something that looks nice.


I can't offer the same kinds of tips that others have already suggested, as I too just started painting minis about a month ago -- after picking up the first Zombicide game.

For me, I think working through two trays of identical monsters was of value as it allowed me to practice the same figures over and over again. I also own Mansions of Madness, but I haven't touched them yet for painting.

I think you're on the right track and based on what I learned, I'd definitely recommend starting with some type of zombie figure first. Now matter how awful you think your paint job looks, a quick dip in wood stain fixes all problems.

But really, it's just getting over that initial "hump" where you think you're going to ruin everything. Pick three or four colors and just start painting. When something doesn't look right or doesn't seem to be working, come back for more help or find an answer online by searching.

Good luck.


There's a couple of really good bits of advice in this in my opinion.

Firstly starting with a limited palette is a good plan. You don't want to overcomplicate things when you are first starting and to be honest fewer colours tends to look better.

Secondly just get stuck in there. Nobody is going to be a great painter when they first start out but as long as you are enjoying it then that is the main thing.

Another thing I would add is that although painting several of the same miniatures is a good way to practice make sure you pick miniatures that you like the look of and you will enjoy. If you pick miniatures you don't like that much (perhaps because they are your first practice miniatures) then you may not be as motivated as much to paint them whereas if you pick miniatures that you like then you will take pleasure in painting.
 
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Marty Kane
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If you're painting your Mansions of Madness minis, you'll certainly want to check this guide out: http://boardgamegeek.com/image/942300/mansions-of-madness
 
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